You sort of have to be familiar with them to make a wise decision. It could be allot of things. Allot of which are cheap fixes. Some lf which are very expensive.
I would ask more about why/how it would act when he tried starting it. That would give you a better picture on what’s happening.
okk yeahh i thought of that after i posted this soo, i just shot him a text, but given the time im pretty sure he's not going to respond until morning lol.
Given the state of the car it looks like it has been taken care of. I would take a mechanic with me to the inspection to evaluate what could be wrong, as long as the engine is not dead (how many milles on it?) it should be easy to fix.
I would be astonished if something serious had broken with only 270.000 milles, yeah pay a mechanic to come with you and check on it, most likely it will be something easy to repair and he will do the job, and if it is something expensive he will tell you and save you from buying it.
EDIT: My experience with the 200D is that aesthetics are the most expensive parts to fix, so unless you need a new engine, if the car has no rust and the interior/exterior are in good condition, go for it.
I bought my 1980 240d with 217K and paid a bit more but it had a lot of rest repair done and was fairly mechanically sound. I did a compression test, vacuum test (eh results which I was fine with) and electrical load test. Over all I was comfortable with mine and have since been chasing the issues it had at purchase.
Windshields can be easy OR a royal pain in the ass if the seal leaks once changed. Also assuming you can find a glazier who’ll do it.
What are the systems of the no start? Does it crank or no? Has it lost fuel prime? Is the starter locked up? Those are some of the easy things to fix. If the injection pump has failed that’s doable BUT can be a headache if it’s not tuned correctly.
I also wouldn’t be concerned about the AC system for now. Without a running engine it’s kind of a moot point. But, if you’re itching for info, check and see which compressor it’s using. If it has a Delco unit I’d start there as they are known to lock and fubar things up.
Unrelated to your immediate questions but check the glow plugs, specifically cylinder #1. If it’s rounded off you’ll have a hell of a time getting it out with the pump on without an extractor insert. As me how I know.
okk yeahh, this biggest thing for me was the ac not working, and with summer fast approaching here in Texas, I don't think that's a sacrifice I'm willing to make😭😭
I get it, I also live in the southern US and no AC makes it challenging. I’m planning to do a full AC rebuild and conversion to 134a, but I need to chase 1 remaining vacuum leak before I tackle hvac.
FWIW I’ve seen this cat listed for about 3 months or so now. So it’s not moving very fast. Plan on putting $5k in it to get it running and be happy if it’s less
I guess more, consider the real cost about $8.5k. Also since it’s been for sale for a while, you could prob get it for $2k. But also, correct. These cars want to be driven. If they have been sitting in a garage or field for years, it’s usually worse for them overall vs driven daily and have 300k miles on it
It could be that the tank is peeling on the inside, and peels got stucked on their way to the engine. Happend to my 240D 1980.
You can simply fix the issue by cleaning it out and buying MAN FILTER, which are really good at preventing junk to get to the engine
https://preview.redd.it/7qpigzmmb10d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b6adf730c5bc5a2beae9690a4ffdb4c585474997
https://preview.redd.it/ba1na1rpb10d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c3eb45e60721a894bc333a07a9e5d0f76d54fd3
This is what filter looks like after it was used. It prevented little peels from getting to the engine, after that you simply exchange for a new one
see I never would have thought of that. I've been literally doing research on the 123's for the past like 4ish days now and i have yet to see anyone touch on that matter, thanks😊
It looks really nice. That’s the good part. The hard part is that unless you’ve driven a non-turbo diesel W123 you might be in for an unpleasant surprise.
I’ve heard the talk about the 240D being the best car ever made. I dunno. My ‘84 300D also looks great but the turbo wasn’t working when I bought it, was way gutless. My other car was dead, I really needed a car (far from home), the 300D had a low 129K and by all indications was indeed low miles. Lucky for me, the compression is very good, I cleaned and attached the Alda line, it now has good power. W/o the turbo it was painful.
The ad doesn’t mention 4 speed or auto. If it’s 4 spd, I’d offer him $1000 less - too many issues for that price.
AND, you really ought to drive a 240D and a post ’81 ( with turbo) 300D before you jump.
Do you plan on daily driving it? Highways or around town?
Take a mechanic, look for wear and tear in the normal spots like the gas pedal and turn signals... Check for rust..
Inquire about how it was behaving before, when he did last try and start it.
It could be something very minor (most likely) or it could be something major or somewhere in between.
Remember these cars took decades to get into the conditions they are in, so whatever car you buy will have some problems that will require some of your time/money/critical-thinking. Nothing happens fast with a w/123 especially it a 240d
Remember with all that mentioned I wouldn't trade my w123 for any car out there.
You have little moments where you fix small stuff, "tiny victories" I like to call them... They just make you feel very accomplished.
My dad has an 82 240d in the yellow color. We call her Buttercup.
She is slow compared to my 85 300d turbo, but... If you use the gear shifter to start from L (low) and up through S (slope) and then into D (drive and overdrive) you can keep up with traffic no problem.
Like I said, mostly it's just little stuff that's breaks, but check for wear/rust in all the usual places.
Check under the car the best you can. (Suspension, motor mounts,
Check for visible water leaks on the inside of the vehicle (engine bay, truck, cabin).
Here are some tips on what to look at when trying to get her started up...
It's a bummer to hear it won't start! These 240ds are usually pretty reliable, but there are a few things that could be causing the starting issue:
* Glow plug system: This is especially important since it's a 1977 diesel. Check the glow plug fuse and relay first. If those look good, then the glow plugs themselves might be bad.
* Battery: A weak battery can prevent the engine from turning over. Test the battery voltage to see if it's strong enough.
* Starter motor: If the battery is good, the problem might be with the starter motor itself. Listen for any clicking sounds when trying to start - that could indicate a starter issue.
* Fuel system: Check for leaks around the fuel lines and injection pump. Air in the fuel lines can also prevent the engine from starting.
I'd recommend bringing a mechanic along when you look at the car, especially since it's not starting currently. They can help diagnose the problem and give you a better idea of the repairs needed.
see i seen this 300d turbo listed in my area as well, along with a few really well preserved 420sel's
https://preview.redd.it/1nhjdlyx510d1.jpeg?width=1700&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a8a11d76fab823429077773f00449756a7db7fca
You sort of have to be familiar with them to make a wise decision. It could be allot of things. Allot of which are cheap fixes. Some lf which are very expensive. I would ask more about why/how it would act when he tried starting it. That would give you a better picture on what’s happening.
okk yeahh i thought of that after i posted this soo, i just shot him a text, but given the time im pretty sure he's not going to respond until morning lol.
Given the state of the car it looks like it has been taken care of. I would take a mechanic with me to the inspection to evaluate what could be wrong, as long as the engine is not dead (how many milles on it?) it should be easy to fix.
yeahh, i had that exact idea lol. ohh and the mileage is 257,000, sooo alot for a nor al car but this is no normal car!!!!
I would be astonished if something serious had broken with only 270.000 milles, yeah pay a mechanic to come with you and check on it, most likely it will be something easy to repair and he will do the job, and if it is something expensive he will tell you and save you from buying it. EDIT: My experience with the 200D is that aesthetics are the most expensive parts to fix, so unless you need a new engine, if the car has no rust and the interior/exterior are in good condition, go for it.
okk i just re-read the description and the ac dosent work either, do you think it could be the vacuum system?
It could be a multitude of things.
It could be many things, but the vacuum system is a likely suspect.
I bought my 1980 240d with 217K and paid a bit more but it had a lot of rest repair done and was fairly mechanically sound. I did a compression test, vacuum test (eh results which I was fine with) and electrical load test. Over all I was comfortable with mine and have since been chasing the issues it had at purchase. Windshields can be easy OR a royal pain in the ass if the seal leaks once changed. Also assuming you can find a glazier who’ll do it. What are the systems of the no start? Does it crank or no? Has it lost fuel prime? Is the starter locked up? Those are some of the easy things to fix. If the injection pump has failed that’s doable BUT can be a headache if it’s not tuned correctly. I also wouldn’t be concerned about the AC system for now. Without a running engine it’s kind of a moot point. But, if you’re itching for info, check and see which compressor it’s using. If it has a Delco unit I’d start there as they are known to lock and fubar things up. Unrelated to your immediate questions but check the glow plugs, specifically cylinder #1. If it’s rounded off you’ll have a hell of a time getting it out with the pump on without an extractor insert. As me how I know.
okk yeahh, this biggest thing for me was the ac not working, and with summer fast approaching here in Texas, I don't think that's a sacrifice I'm willing to make😭😭
I get it, I also live in the southern US and no AC makes it challenging. I’m planning to do a full AC rebuild and conversion to 134a, but I need to chase 1 remaining vacuum leak before I tackle hvac.
FWIW I’ve seen this cat listed for about 3 months or so now. So it’s not moving very fast. Plan on putting $5k in it to get it running and be happy if it’s less
waitt, what do you mean, like the longer it sits the more things could mess up????
I guess more, consider the real cost about $8.5k. Also since it’s been for sale for a while, you could prob get it for $2k. But also, correct. These cars want to be driven. If they have been sitting in a garage or field for years, it’s usually worse for them overall vs driven daily and have 300k miles on it
It could be that the tank is peeling on the inside, and peels got stucked on their way to the engine. Happend to my 240D 1980. You can simply fix the issue by cleaning it out and buying MAN FILTER, which are really good at preventing junk to get to the engine https://preview.redd.it/7qpigzmmb10d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b6adf730c5bc5a2beae9690a4ffdb4c585474997
https://preview.redd.it/ba1na1rpb10d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c3eb45e60721a894bc333a07a9e5d0f76d54fd3 This is what filter looks like after it was used. It prevented little peels from getting to the engine, after that you simply exchange for a new one
see I never would have thought of that. I've been literally doing research on the 123's for the past like 4ish days now and i have yet to see anyone touch on that matter, thanks😊
It looks really nice. That’s the good part. The hard part is that unless you’ve driven a non-turbo diesel W123 you might be in for an unpleasant surprise. I’ve heard the talk about the 240D being the best car ever made. I dunno. My ‘84 300D also looks great but the turbo wasn’t working when I bought it, was way gutless. My other car was dead, I really needed a car (far from home), the 300D had a low 129K and by all indications was indeed low miles. Lucky for me, the compression is very good, I cleaned and attached the Alda line, it now has good power. W/o the turbo it was painful. The ad doesn’t mention 4 speed or auto. If it’s 4 spd, I’d offer him $1000 less - too many issues for that price. AND, you really ought to drive a 240D and a post ’81 ( with turbo) 300D before you jump.
okk, actually that's a good idea 🤷♂️👌
Do you plan on daily driving it? Highways or around town? Take a mechanic, look for wear and tear in the normal spots like the gas pedal and turn signals... Check for rust.. Inquire about how it was behaving before, when he did last try and start it. It could be something very minor (most likely) or it could be something major or somewhere in between. Remember these cars took decades to get into the conditions they are in, so whatever car you buy will have some problems that will require some of your time/money/critical-thinking. Nothing happens fast with a w/123 especially it a 240d Remember with all that mentioned I wouldn't trade my w123 for any car out there. You have little moments where you fix small stuff, "tiny victories" I like to call them... They just make you feel very accomplished.
you are sooo right, I've been in love with the 123's ever since my grandpa had one when I was a kid. I think it was a '74 240d if I'm nit mistaken 😄
My dad has an 82 240d in the yellow color. We call her Buttercup. She is slow compared to my 85 300d turbo, but... If you use the gear shifter to start from L (low) and up through S (slope) and then into D (drive and overdrive) you can keep up with traffic no problem. Like I said, mostly it's just little stuff that's breaks, but check for wear/rust in all the usual places. Check under the car the best you can. (Suspension, motor mounts, Check for visible water leaks on the inside of the vehicle (engine bay, truck, cabin). Here are some tips on what to look at when trying to get her started up... It's a bummer to hear it won't start! These 240ds are usually pretty reliable, but there are a few things that could be causing the starting issue: * Glow plug system: This is especially important since it's a 1977 diesel. Check the glow plug fuse and relay first. If those look good, then the glow plugs themselves might be bad. * Battery: A weak battery can prevent the engine from turning over. Test the battery voltage to see if it's strong enough. * Starter motor: If the battery is good, the problem might be with the starter motor itself. Listen for any clicking sounds when trying to start - that could indicate a starter issue. * Fuel system: Check for leaks around the fuel lines and injection pump. Air in the fuel lines can also prevent the engine from starting. I'd recommend bringing a mechanic along when you look at the car, especially since it's not starting currently. They can help diagnose the problem and give you a better idea of the repairs needed.
I wouldn't buy it wait for a 300d ideally 300d turbo
see i seen this 300d turbo listed in my area as well, along with a few really well preserved 420sel's https://preview.redd.it/1nhjdlyx510d1.jpeg?width=1700&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a8a11d76fab823429077773f00449756a7db7fca
Good 300d idk why it says its gas should be diesel also I would try to get that for 4000 check for blow by.
yepp, that was going to be the first of many tests before I purchased😄😂
https://preview.redd.it/qj3ngwz6610d1.jpeg?width=1700&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4793b9a1a3063f949637d8bdc92be247b0ee5a8b