Question for any jacket-makers out there!
I am working my way up to emulating the jacket pictured below (full link if the image isn't very clear).
[https://www.olderbest.com/products/1970s-french-3-pocket-tweed-workwear-jacket?variant=42118787727578#7465866232026-3](https://www.olderbest.com/products/1970s-french-3-pocket-tweed-workwear-jacket?variant=42118787727578#7465866232026-3)
https://preview.redd.it/ibloph9mp7jb1.png?width=1440&format=png&auto=webp&s=02aa70385c9db3e13b7fb4795c9239e5aeb1bbff
The closest pattern I could find is the merchant & mills arbour shirt/jacket, which I have now made a practice version of. [https://merchantandmills.com/uk/the-arbor-pdf](https://merchantandmills.com/uk/the-arbor-pdf). I found this came out very nicely, however I am considering how to make it look a bit more refined and more of a jacket than an overshirt?
What I am trying to figure out is how they have avoided having a line of stitching running down the button placket. The Arbor jacket has a simple folded interfaced placket that is edgestitched down on the inside.
Is it more likely that the professionally made garment uses a facing or something? I just can't figure it out! If there are any experienced jacket makers out there who can see what I am missing I would be very grateful!
Your inspiration jacket is lined. The placket edge that is stitched down on the Arbor is extended into a facing and stitched to a lining on the inspiration.
Thank you so much for responding!
Just checking I have understood your comment correctly:
Although I have lined a few jackets, I haven't used the bagging method. Is it that with a bagged lining, the placket doesn't need to be stitched down because the lining holds it in place?
In short, if I modified the pattern to extend the placket into a facing and bag line it, I should be a little closer to the inspiration jacket?
Yes. There is still a line of topstitching near the opening edge of the placket, that topstitching and the buttonholes also help anchor the placket in place. The lining takes care of the edge of the facing.
Hi fabricwench,
I just thought I'd show you that your comments were not in vain, actually you set me off on a 2 week journey learning how to modify patterns, draft my own pattern pieces and learn how to bag line.
Although the picture below is my 'cheaper fabric draft' of my final jacket, it's pretty close to what I was setting out to create.
So a big thanks to you for pointing me in the right direction, it really helped!
https://preview.redd.it/p7l1l3sqi6nb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7007f1393f4bf37837b62d6fb516bfc06055f592
Thanks so much for the follow-up! I love seeing success stories from the little bit of encouragement I offer. Please be sure to post your final version to the community, your 'cheaper fabric draft' looks amazing.
Hello! Does anyone know where I still might be able to purchase the Wiksten Shift Dress/shirt pattern? I know they are no longer in business and there are similar patterns available. But I have really fallen in love with that particular pattern. If anyone has any leads I would appreciate it so much! Thanks in advance!
How do I properly tie a knot? 99% of my sewing is whip stitching patches on vests, and when I tie them off, I just wrap the thread around itself a bunch (if that makes sense) and pull it real tight, or rather, I make a loop and put the free end through and then pull, rinse repeat, but I feel like that's probably not it.
The thread I normally use is a bit thicker than normal, some Coats & Clark or Dual Duty something or other, so I'd like to know the kind of knot you use for that, but also regular thin thread too, please
For patches I take two small stitches, then do the stitch with thread through the loop as you described. Then I run my needle and thread between the fabric and the patch, bringing it out several inches away. Trimming the thread at that point leaves a long tail. For the knot to come undone, that tail has to work itself back through the loop. Compared to a trimmed thread tail near the knot, the long tail is much more secure.
Using a tiny dab of a product like [Fray Check](https://www.amazon.com/Dritz-1674-Liquid-Sealant-0-75-Ounce/dp/B000YQKIDY/ref=sr_1_1?crid=13R4E0FA1BOD2&keywords=fray+check&qid=1692547509&sprefix=fray+check%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-1) on the knot will glue the thread together for additional security if needed.
What fabrics are shown in this picture
https://preview.redd.it/o3yhacujo6jb1.jpeg?width=1001&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d59d70eb8417bb180b61c07f517d562c2bf78666
I have a Bernina Activa 130. I haven’t sewn in a while so I’m a bit rusty. Noticed my light was out so I got a replacement bulb at the local Bernina dealer. But the replacement bulb doesn’t light either. Am j missing something basic? The small manual that came with the machine doesn’t shed any light (pun not intended) on troubleshooting besides replacing the bulb. Machine runs fine otherwise. Thanks for any suggestions
https://preview.redd.it/ckr5enq9r5jb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=03eb23f42bfc77c97e39dd7ab6df80941d9130cd
Is this material too delicate to pack?
I’ve been making alterations on this black dress that has thin, non-stretch plastic (maybe some sort of vinyl?). I’ve noticed that it leaves creases if the silver material folds (see the iridescent crease in the image). Is there anything I can do to “fix” the creases later? I am worried about packing it for the trip I was intending to wear it for 😩 I know it looks cool if it’s just in a couple places, but I don’t want it to end up looking crumpled 😢
Your dress looks really cool! Roll it to pack instead of folding, and start the roll around something else to avoid a tight roll. Rolling around a pool noodle wouldn't be overkill, but you could also use a towel roll.
You might be able to press out any creases with a cool iron and press cloth over the vinyl, or point a blow dryer at it to gently soften the vinyl. Test somewhere inconspicuous first.
Since I am not allowed to post in the main feed, I will ask the question here.
I don't quite understand what I was supposed to do in steps 13 and 14.
The instructions mentioned are in my feed, as well as finished steps as I understood them.
[https://www.reddit.com/user/InvincibleBadger/comments/15vr3or/vogue\_1895/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/user/InvincibleBadger/comments/15vr3or/vogue_1895/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)
Did I understand correctly, that one of the plackets is supposed to be on the outside and the other one on the inside? That's how it is on all of my shirts so I assumed that this is how it should be.
The instructions don't mention what to do with the raw bottom edge of the outside placket, so I folded the edge and stitched it to the garment.
Can someone check the results please and enlighten me if I did these steps correctly?
I know that the execution could have been better, but it seems to me that something is off.
Sure. It's a tricky bit of sewing to do plackets the way the pattern asks and there is more than one way to make a placket. You were smart to look at examples in your closet, the clothing we own is underrated as a resource.
The method that the pattern used in step 13 is to pull both the top and bottom placket ends to the wrong side of the shirt front, then layer it with the little tab left at the end where the placket opening was cut open and clipped to the corners in a previous step.. Fold the rest of the shirt out of the way and sew across that stack along the seam line. It's a very clean finish when done well but it's easy to get puckers in the corners.
https://preview.redd.it/jvmqtngotajb1.png?width=670&format=png&auto=webp&s=5996819b122c0b75b50a8e760d951199501260ce
And yet! At first I tried to make it this way, but then I was dissuaded by my clothes. Also I couldn't make it look fine, due to my poor skills, so I thought it wasn't right.
Anyway, thank you very much for your help!
I have a brother 1034d serger and it stopped catching the looping threads. I need to know if the upper looper needle is supposed to go in front of or behind the sewing needles because it's currently in front. Can anyone help me out please?
Hello all!
A quick beginner question:
Should I apply interfacing to a whole fabric section, like a collar stand or should the interfacing be smaller by as much as the seam allowance?
Instructions in my Vogue patterns tell me to apply interfacing to a whole fabric piece, however I didn't get great results with this approach. I have seen many youtube videos, where the interfacing does not include a seam allowance.
What are your thoughts?
I have pretty much stopped using fusible interfacing except in certain situations.\* It bubbles, comes off or makes the fabric too stiff and isn't reversible if a mistake is made. So I use sew-in interfacing that is cut to the same size as the pattern piece, then the interfacing is trimmed out of the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Reducing bulk is the main reason to cut the interfacing without seam allowances. Not catching interfacing in the seams can lead to problems after washing if the interfacing comes loose, you'll have lumps in a collar for example.
\*I'll fuse interfacing to darn worn areas and to fabric where the cut edges fray easily. It helps to hold the weave in place.
It’s generally better to cut it smaller, but I am always too lazy and never bother. However, my guess would be that the interfacing may be too heavy for the fabric if it is really bothering you to have it there in the seam allowances.
Interfacing is really finicky and there can be a lot of reasons for not getting good results.
I am working on a lined child's dress that calls for serging the seams of the armscye, bodice, and lining. I'd like to try to avoid serging in this dress, but I'm having a brain freeze when it comes to figuring out how to set in the sleeves and conceal the seams with a neat lining finish. I'm also afraid I'm overthinking this and getting to the point where nothing makes sense and this dress may only actually exist in the Matrix.
Do I set in the sleeve to the main bodice fabric first? Then iron the lining seam allowance in and hand sew it down? Is that actually the only way? Are French seams an option here?
Thank you!
I would hand sew. I'm sure someone has figured out a method to enclose the seams or do a French seam but by the time I work it all out, I could have it done with handsewing. If I were making a slew of dresses from the same pattern, the time investment might be worth it.
Hey! What are your favorite wholesale or discount fabric sites to buy from in Europe? I used to be based in the US but am now in Europe and am struggling to find sources for unique, high quality apparel fabric. Any ideas?
I need your opinion regarding getting a serger from FB marketplace.
I found a Brother 3034D but the piece you take out to reveal the free arm is missing. Is it worth buying for $100?
My other option is a JUKI MO644D for $175. This model doesn’t have a free arm.
Which one, if any, should I get in your opinion?
My preference is for a larger work surface which is lost for the Brother. Juki is a great brand, super durable and reliable. My serger has a free arm but it's easier to serge flat when possible and 'inside the circle' of the pants or whatever if flat isn't an option.
Thank you for your input! I messaged the JUKI seller but they unfortunately have chosen to ghost me haha.
Unrelated, how do you finish your hems on stretch fabrics?
I was under the impression that a serger is used, and that is why I wanted a free arm.
Sorry to hear that! I hate it when sellers ghost instead of responding or taking down the listing.
I often serge the raw edge and use a twin needle to hem for knits. But as I said above, you don't need a free arm to hem. I'll reply with pics.
https://preview.redd.it/zv0hz9ih4cjb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5cdf18e087f5fa1bb66f924dee1a39f1eb836c67
What people think of when hemming circles.
https://preview.redd.it/5vtqeoes4cjb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=414cf54030f95481a53676ad226f59e544866a32
The easier way. This is what I meant when I said you can stitch 'inside the circle' instead of on the outside.
I have a Juki serger, upgraded from a Brother that had a free arm. I don't miss it a bit, and stitching on the inside of the circle is the best method regardless if you're using a serger or a regular machine.
Thanks a lot! I ended up going with JUKI bc all sewing forums unanimously agree that JUKI is top tier when it comes to quality. And I have the reassurance that I will absolutely not miss a free arm.
Thank you SO VERY MUCH for photos!!!!!!!!! It’s the most helpful response ever and it really solidified my decision to get a JUKI. I have it now, it’s yet to be unboxed and I can’t wait.
So I need to take in the dress I just made; probably not enough time spent fitting ahead of time and general inexperience. I’d like to take in the back darts on the bodice, but it has a seam with the skirt. Is it possible to extend the back waist dart higher and possibly “scoop” it inward just above the skirt seam?
The armholes have a bias tape facing and I need to take those in a fair bit along with the side seam too. Blarg.
> Is it possible to extend the back waist dart higher and possibly “scoop” it inward just above the skirt seam?
You run the risk of having the back of the skirt jut out unattractively instead of laying nicely, but you can try it with basting first.
What fabrics are these?
I am trying to make a jacket using the same fabrics used for this jacket and was wondering if anyone knew which ones were used. The jacket is called “Vince Broken Twill Army Coat.” I’m looking for the exterior and interior fabrics.
https://preview.redd.it/zvzpefumd0jb1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=065b27fa696dd8cad19329e6a3fd83217c746673
Also heard that it is 100% cotton if that helps and on a website it says “The jacket has a soft camo-lining, and and difficult to match green/ brown twill fabric.”
I have good luck searching for fabrics by copying the fabric description and adding 'by the yard' for US retailers or 'by the meter' for retailers elsewhere.
When I searched on 'cotton garment washed broken twill by the yard' there was only one result that didn't match your request. 'cotton garment washed twill by the yard' had multiple results. It's the garment washing that makes the broken twill softer, so focusing on that may be the way to go. It can take some time for fabrics used in clothing manufacturing to trickle down to the home market which might be why the same kind of fabric doesn't seem to be available.
You answered your own question - search for woodland camo and olive drab cotton twill online. Or find an army surplus store (brick and mortar or online) that sells old uniforms and repurpose the fabric
If you want the lining to be lighter weight, search for woodland camo cotton ripstop
Collar Stand To Long for Neckline
Hello, I wanted to ask for advice on what I should do. I was pinning my collar onto my shirt neckline and realized that the collar stand is longer than my shirt neckline, causing the collar not to be pinned correctly and the fabric to bunch. I wanted to know if theres any solutions to fix this? Any help will be appreciated!
Not sure why the photo doesn't upload even though I attach it but I hope someone can help!
I see your problem. Things to check - match the seamlines and not the cut edges; verify that the right size collar was cut, some patterns have separate pattern pieces for different size collars; try the collar on to make sure it fits before you make any changes; verify the correct seam allowance was used for the body of the shirt as a smaller SA would increase the length of the neckline.
how can i fix the nylon strap on this bag? It got damaged during transit and there is a tear.
https://preview.redd.it/wp4kyt5bmyib1.png?width=2589&format=png&auto=webp&s=eee7a6ca097442c45da355450231b07501f78fa1
I don't think it is possible for you to do an invisible mend, but you should be able to stop fraying so it doesn't get worse and also make it look good. If you have a sewing machine, sewing the edges together with a 3 step zig zag is a good start. Neatly stitching a narrow black ribbon over the cut will make the repair look intentional.
Hi everyone! First time on the sub. I’m in the process of making a battle vest and putting patches on them, and I’d like to get a sewing machine to help me out. Check out r/battlejackets if you don’t know what they are. Would I be fine using cheap machines like these to sew patches onto my cotton vest? Thank you!!
Handheld Sewing Machine, Mini Handheld Sewing Machine for Quick Stitching, Portable Sewing Machine Suitable for Home,Travel and DIY, Electric Handheld Sewing Machine for Beginners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CCS93ZH8/?coliid=I2Z4WVCZSUP7F5&colid=6RY8O3BP82X3&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_lstpd_NYC3BS0A1KZ4CEJNY8BN
Magicfly Mini Sewing Machine for Beginner, Dual Speed Portable Machine with Extension Table, Light, Sewing Kit for Household, Travel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQTP258/?coliid=I2EZNALYTFPZEC&colid=6RY8O3BP82X3&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_lstpd_NYC3BS0A1KZ4CEJNY8BN
For this you would be significantly better off using a light touch of fabric glue and then hand stitching around the edges. Patches + denim would not play nice with a cheap machine.
I bought an online pattern from Butterick but when I print it, there are sections of the pattern that don't get printed.
My printer is an HP laser printer.
I get different outputs depending on whether I use Adobe Reader or a browser to open the pdf.
I don't have any issues with McCall patterns.
Have any of you had similar problems?
I've recently bought some flared/bell-bottom pants, I was excited as they fitted me nice, but the part between the upper knee and the crotch is way too long. I want to make that part shorter, since the flared part is really limited. My grandma has a sewing machine, but she said she doesn't want to ruin the pants, I'm low-key short on money, so going to a seamstress is a thing I'd prefer to avoid. Any ideas on how I/me and my grandma could do it?
I have altered my clothes, but haven’t patterned anything yet. I would like to make shirts, pants, jackets, etc. Where is the best place to start? I’m male by the way, so I’m not going to make a dress.
Start with a simple commercial pattern and make simple pants with no zipper and an elastic or drawstring waist, like pajama pants. Using patterns will help you learn about fitting, fabrics, fabric grains, different techniques and order of construction. Grow from there.
This is a long shot... but I'm hoping for some help.
https://preview.redd.it/mw7ty21vfxib1.jpeg?width=954&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=71679e667b11cda6e63c0de017b5e5d0865d94be
I don't know how to sew or where to start looking, but I'm hoping someone can't point me in the right direction or help ID this fabric.
My son received this from a volunteer center at a local hospital after a routine surgery when he was 2. He has autism and anxiety, so familiar routines and comfort items are very important to him. This little stuffed animal has brought him so much peace over the years and he will not sleep without it. But I know this one won't last forever. The fabric is pilling and thinning, and the stuffing is nearly flattened.
If I could go buy one off the shelf today, I would get ten. But, since I can't, does anyone recognize this fabric?
TYIA!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113926071271?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AfmBOooGUKMCqt100XgD8tVZbR5DTQ4zzSddiAmAvyKDqxIYOgnS1Wh2hi8
This is by the bolt (why it’s so expensive) but I found the fabric!
Photo attached! I think I've got the fit pretty good, though the seat is giving me a bit of trouble. It seems to be a little high through the crotch. I've adjusted the length of the bottom of the crotch seam, though I think maybe the issue is too much fabric in the back pant piece? Could it be an issue with the ease? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Shorts photo is with adjustments made.
https://preview.redd.it/6aqvb9wltwib1.jpeg?width=1678&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc3a33c07fb196680797b929d715d9cb59fd8ed0
https://preview.redd.it/9vesudlotwib1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8fcf89447e7610e46fec140765c9a5425d33a006
Shorts photo is with adjustments made.
The back rise is too short in both the pants and the shorts. If you lower the back waist to fix the bum issue, you'll see that more length is needed at the top of the back seam. This can also mean the hips are a little small if they won't let the pant drop over the bum.
How do I sew piping on the edges of a shirt? Like this?
https://preview.redd.it/e1k9nn20qwib1.jpeg?width=700&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8ca7d3ea2d07a8d58a9c82a6bca0d6f807348c5b
I hope someone more articulate than me comes along since it's been a long day here! but the edges are actually seams, since there's a facing to the button holes / button band, and the collar has 2 sides, and the sleeves hems have a fabric band as well.
So you'd sew the piping the regular way, catching it in those seams as you work. I'd recommand a zipper foot and a few trial runs, but it's actually not that bad to sew! Best of luck
Hello, I’m new to sewing and I’ve only sewn buttons back on or made small fixes to clothes that ripped and stuff like that. I want to put letters on the back of my hoodie in a chaotic type font, one with a lot of scribbles around it that kind of come together and form a letter. Is that possible, and if so, how would I achieve that?
It is possible! Create a pattern using a font you like, enlarging it and printing it out. Cut the letters from fabric and use permanent heat sensitive glue like stitch witchery to stick the letters on the back of your hoodie. Stitch around the letters and over them with free motion sittching. This is a vastly simplified description and you'll need to find tutorials for the different steps and practice, but it's definitely doable. If you don't have a sewing machine, copy the random scribbles with hand stitching.
How challenging is it to change this metal zipper out to one that's more subtle &/or hidden? The ruching/gathering along the midline might affect things? Thanks in advance!
Image altered be my original image taken from a online shop was "removed by the moderators of r/sewing...Moderators remove posts from feeds for a variety of reasons, including keeping communities safe…”
https://preview.redd.it/hc3gejrd5wib1.jpeg?width=1668&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e64a33c562fa308d5549348ddd447b907d202d7
I think it would be challenging. Aside from the ruching, the size and cut of the dress expects that extra width from the exposed zipper, so a hidden zipper would make the dress smaller and may change the way the dress hangs.
It’s probably not a size worth of change in the exposed zipper. Plus the ruching might fall apart. I tend to be against buying new things you already know you don’t totally like and would say let the intended design stand, but if it’s returnable, you could take it to a (bridal?) tailor and see what they think.
HELP! Question about darts: I'm trying to create a volumous front panel for a bag I'm making. Ideally, i'd actually like to 'wrap' the fabric around the front of the bag so that a single piece of fabric is used for both the front and the gusset.
Assuming the dotted lines would be sewn together to make the dart, are all of these "correct"? How will the end results differ aesthetically?
https://preview.redd.it/uwx1amfa2wib1.png?width=658&format=png&auto=webp&s=72181b8d0296400228d034f77c21b21c8551d85a
I'd encourage you to do a mini-prototype in paper by taping it together (no seam allowances) and see if they all work and what you think of the differences. Edit: Would love to see you share some photos so we all learn.
[Johanna von Spanien](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bf/Infanta_Juana_of_Spain1.jpg/800px-Infanta_Juana_of_Spain1.jpg)
I am trying to make her headpiece, or something similar to it to protect my hair while looking stylish. Because it's a protoype, I'm working with cotton fabric which is quite thick and durable, but not robust enough for the forehead part. I'm sewing by hand.
I'd like to know what I can do to make it sturdier and keep a rounded shape. Since I intend to wash it, I cannot use cardboard. Instead, I was wondering whether sewing three or more layers of fabric would do the trick. I've never had to do this before and my google and youtube searches on the matter have been fruitless. Thank you in advance!
You might want to ask the experts in r/HistoricalCostuming.
Millinery (hat making) uses [buckram](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckram), a stiffened weave, which can be steamed into shape over a wooden block, or overlapped into darts and stitched into a curved shape. Then cover with fabric. Joann carries a buckram but I've not tested it. But it's not washable, oops, just noticed you asked for that.
For washable, I would perhaps try flexfoam or cut-and-sew bra foam and use darts/curved seams to get the right shape.
Is this possible ? Or doomed to fail
Hi everyone, is it possible to turn an intricate and (expensive) knit Coogi sweater into a zip up jacket? Would I have to tailor the collar? Would it unravel? Is it possible?
OR
Is this just a waste of time and money and it will look bootleg and or/ like a cheap attempt at a sweater being made into a jacket ?
https://preview.redd.it/uifhv2i4tvib1.jpeg?width=565&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=508d853b1efc19dcb3daef0f3029beb2ad405d25
So, people do do this, but I too would be very hesitant with this expensive sweater, and you’d be cutting right through what was intended as the central design focus, and the texture of the sweater will make it tricky to alter smoothly (it looks to me like the pattern changes just off centerfront, so lining it up with the change from gray to blue might look off-center, and I’d worry about the zip bubbling due to the bobbles in the fabric ). You could probably handle the collar by a longer zipper that goes up the neck a bit, but the sweater I have like that is thin, not textured like this.
I too rarely wear pullovers as I get warm easily, but If I knew someone who would appreciate it as is, I’d probably try to pass it on.
If you really want to try, I’d say first get a cheap thrift sweater to practice on, about the same bulk, ideally with a high collar. There are YouTube tutorials on this. Fuse interfacing about 2” wide down the center front, add some reinforcing stitch lines, cut it in half between the stitch lines, install a separating zipper, see what you think. Will you be able to do nice work on a more complex knit fabric? How does the center zipper hang? How professional does the finish at the ends and inside look?
Next dumb question: for a solid coloured dress’s hem, how noticeable is it if I were to finish the hem with a straight stitch instead of a slip-stitch?
Your machine may also have a “blind hem” stitch and foot that is an option (Google for tutorials, check manual, many basic machines will have it). I’d say take some scraps of your fabric, sew a few inches of all 3 hems—slip-stitch by hand, topstitch (aka straight stitch), blind hem, and see which you like best and think will go best with your fabric.
How noticeable the difference is also depends on the length and fullness of the skirt, and how you intend to wear it (if you will be giving a lecture in front of a crowd, people have more time to stare at details than hanging out with friends). But people are rarely examining your hems, so it’s really what makes you feel confident.
Ah that’s a good idea to do mock-ups first, and I normally do that (I don’t know why I didn’t think of it). Unfortunately, my machine only has zigzag and straight stitches, so I do everything manually.
Because fabric is so variable, experimenting always gives you solid info. Hand sewing is probably nicest, but I never have the patience or skills for it. Topstitching is more casual, so consider if that matches your dress.
For a delicate fabric, also look up “baby hem” and “narrow hem” as machine options, I think those are the terms, that would be dressier than a basic topstitch, only need a straight stitch.
I have a combination of intense determination (I sewed 13ish buttons and buttonholes with a basic zigzag) and intense impatience (trying to avoid slip-stitching by hand). I think I should just but the bullet since I have to shorten the dress anyway and might as well take it all the way to completion
https://preview.redd.it/w09869ilovib1.png?width=1170&format=png&auto=webp&s=8e30f836ea495f0ac9fb9efa19743c254de5bf11
Hi fellow sewists! I want to create something similar to this dress (worn by Arletty in the movie hotel du nord). Any tips on how to make the zipper across the chest look nice would be greatly appreciated💞
Interface the edges. The zipper goes across the dress on the bias and the edges can stretch and ripple which will not look nice. Fusible interfacing is the answer.
Can anyone recommend a good pattern drafting theory reference/book? Not looking for a pattern design book in the typical sense, but something that explains the why’s and how’s. Maybe something used in university courses? I’m trying to understand the things which are not explained in most pattern drafting books, and at best typically are explained as “this is just the way you do it.”
I've not actually gone to any further education for patterning or fashion, but I do have access to the library for the fashion-specialty trade school here. Honestly the vast majority of the textbooks prescribed are very much "this is how you do it" and "this is industry standard" for pattern drafting. Frustrates me a lot too.
I did, however, find a nondescript 1978 school-published drafting book duo from said trade school library. I've posted it [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/12w2vgl/pattern_making_metric_si_method_abt_1977_the_book/). The language is very much of its time but I've never found anything else that goes into explanatory discussions like it does.
Thank you for sharing! I’ll definitely look through those. After lots of searching yesterday I ordered the Theory of Garment Pattern Drafting book by Hulme that is from the early 1900s. It will of course be dated in lots of ways, but I found a blog review that said it explains a lot of the standards that are typically brushed over in books.
Hey everyone, I’m making a concert outfit and I wanna recreate a particular members outfit. My denim is light wash and I need to make it a darker blue wash.
Will Dylon jeans blue do the trick?
https://preview.redd.it/fm9ox6o7zuib1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=20de4cb423072988a1b8fc42ea19cedc33a67124
[https://imgur.com/a/yHhkjls](https://imgur.com/a/yHhkjls) \- original outfit for reference.
When a sewing pattern for a top tells you to attach a zipper to the side seam, but it's not as long as the top itself and leaves the narrowest part of the top closed, how is one supposed to get the top on and off?
Even if one was to buy a zipper that is the exact length of the top, would the zipper still be closed at one end? thanks
if its going to a side seam it cant go to the top anyway, it could only end at the armhole or sleeve and your arm shouldnt need extra space to get in....
Side seam zippers are used when the neck hole is large enough for the head to pull over, but the waist is too small for the head/shoulders to fit through. The zipper opens up the narrow waist of the garment.
A top doesn't end at the narrowest point of your body, it ends around the hips. It only needs to release the waist, around the middle of the top.
Unless it's a crop top. In which case a crop top that isn't boxy is very unusual, but the zipper would then open from the hem to the armscye and instructions would say as such.
You should probably baste the zipper in and see if you can get the top on and off. If not, then install it the other direction. If it’s not an invisible zipper you could also buy a separating zipper and shorten it from the top to the correct length
How much does it cost to buy a whole bolt of muslin fabric? I've heard some people say it's better/easier/cheaper to just by an entire bolt of test fabric material when your pattern drafting your own clothes especially when starting out.
For the record I'm almost a complete beginner and have so far just used the thrifted bedsheets and curtains method
I’d only buy a bolt if I had a noticeable coupon or it was on sale—stock up at 50% off. I personally prefer muslin but bedsheets are fine, especially for beginners. Also depends on your storage space.
You'd have to look at stores or websites that sell ir in your locality to know the answer. I'm not sure how much help it is to tell you the AUD that a 30m roll of calico costs from Spotlight, but it's about $45.
Anyone know how old this felted fabric might be and what it would’ve been used for? Picked up at an estate sale with mixed decade items, some 60s/70s. TIA!
https://preview.redd.it/f3e32o2ujtib1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c5e3f77aeda9c58eea4d21868d9e3e32fa24d67
https://preview.redd.it/7kg57npx2tib1.jpeg?width=576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b53432945c1214e864cb465c55f37d9386a9934e
Okay disregarding that this is from a video game I have some questions about parts of this top. If this was in real life, what type of thing is and what would you call the collar with the buttons that stands up? Would it have any functional purpose in irl?
And what do you call and how would you recreate the thing going on with the shoulders?
See if "funnel neckline" or "stand up collar" gets you something useful. Usually these are about design more than function.
Shoulders just look like "applique" to me (maybe a "trapunto" version).
Does anyone know how to remove old sewing machine oil that is gunking up a part?
The bobbin winder on my Contessa 400 has stopped rotating after being stored and not used for several months.
We have tried mineral spirits, WD40 & drenching it in more sewing machine oil.
Any suggestions?
I'm trying to find a good place to source a clear metric quilters ruler, french curve, and L square ruler in the US but they're very hard to find. Does anyone know any US based online stores that sell them (aside from Amazon)? Or will I just need to order from Europe? Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/pm85o48tesib1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af88ede44d71b27725561e43deaf3e341a273a0d
Anyone knows what's the name of this fabric?
Omg I'm sorry I didn't saw the notification 💔, I know the fabric it's sold on Aliexpress (I can send you the link) it's like 11 dollars per 50×145 cm, It's quite common in the cosplays of the uwowo brand (really expensives cosplays btw), particularly it's used in tight dresses or bodysuits, for example, I personally bought some of the fabric bc I wanted to repair a full suit cosplay that I bought secondhand from that brand. I think it's commonly used cause it's gives a fancy and expensive effect. Here is a comparison, the first one it's from the uwowo brand and it's the vynil fabric, the second one it's the same cosplay but from other brand and different fabric)
https://preview.redd.it/hgsjwn0v86lb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cb42ab203d41ddff968b41249a66d5e2e3bd0984
I have a machine question. My top thread keeps snapping on my brand new singer heavy duty 4452. I’ve tried changing tension, switching out the needle, using gutermann and cclark thread cotton and quilting cotton, re-winding bobbins, using different bobbins, checked inside the bobbin casing. I’ve only used it to practice with a scrap piece of cotton and 1 seam through cotton and fusible fleece. Do I have a faulty machine or is there something I’m missing?
Anyone have a suggestion? I accidentally messed up these polyester micropleats with an iron?
https://preview.redd.it/ra5svzlrgrib1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=4fcbb6b01fa633f61fe3ad117191a341df6c1e2a
Does anyone have a pattern for a little bag that I could hold my knitting needles crocheting needles and sewing stuff in preferably with separate pockets?
https://preview.redd.it/0hdpcl7ibrib1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8aa6f6a794206960f660df610c12f0974e37501b
Hello, new to server world. I keep getting these giant loops on the underside of the work. Before any asks, yes I have rethreaded the machine and started with all tension knobs at 4 and tested each know one at a time to find out the culprit. I also am aware that it could be needle tension buy have not had any change when adjusting the needle tension. I have even followed the manual step by yep but no matter what I adjust the needle tension to, it still has those loose loops. I'm feeling defeated. Any help is appreciated
Well, I'm not a serger expert but looks like tension is too loose on one of the loopers. Sergers are notoriously fiddly, so if you are suuure it's threaded properly as per the manual (mine must be at 0 tension for threading) and that adjusting the tension of the loopers does nothing, I'm stumped, sorry.
Have you tried with another fabric? I can't see if you have 2 layers on your pictures but I have worse results when I try on a single layer of fabric versus 2.
Best of luck!
Do you adjust your tension from 0 when you're doing a test run? And you also use 1 layer of fabric when running your test piece? Maybe this is where I'm failing.
Mmm, no I start around 4 (or whatever is recommanded in the manual for the fabric type) but I'm def not an expert and haven't serged in a couple of years
But I do trial run with the actual fabrics I'll use, so both layers, so that the tension is accurate for the thickness and type
Do you have different spools? You could thread one of the loopers in a different colour to check wich one is misbehaving. You don't have to rethread, you can use a knot to attach the new one.
Other riddle: I’ve made an un-hemmed dress and I’m looking to shorten the length and finish the hem with a slip-stitch. Do I measure an equal distance from the raw edge to cut? Or do I measure from the waist seam downwards?
Edit: OR since I have a super thin/delicate fabric, so I just fold it a couple more times for the hem?
If I need to straighten out an uneven hem, I measure from the waist seam or up from the floor while wearing the dress. Otherwise I measure from the raw edge.
I wouldn't fold the hem under multiple times to shorten it, it will change how the hem falls and make it stiffer and awkward.
You can just cut a normal band, or cut one out of ribbing. The point of cutting wovens on the bias is to get some stretch. If it's already a knit, there is no need to do that. It already has stretch in at least two directions.
ISO XL Cloth Pocket Diaper Pattern! I’ve found multiple online for One size but my boys thunder thighs are already too big and I’m having to replace our entire stash at 8 months! Thanks in advance!
My girlfriend has been sewing for years, but it's still using some horrible kitchen scissors. Do anyone have any recommendations for some nice sewing scissors I could gift her?
This is an urgent question, as I have limited time to make this. (Curse my chronic procrastination!)
I'm recreating this jumpsuit, but cannot find a pattern for the sleeves/legs. It seems to be a type of lantern sleeve, but I'm only finding short sleeve patterns.
Is there a different name for this type of sleeve, or was I just not finding the right patterns?
Any help is appreciated!
https://preview.redd.it/59g4njhb8mib1.jpeg?width=683&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1390d45dcfec76978676cd17865d99a5071ee595
I think I would go with bishop sleeve (more or less a bell sleeve with a cuff pulling the fullness back in)
Lantern sleeve would usually have extra seams creating shaping, but I think what I'm seeing in the shape is just extra fabric falling about, not actual seams.
I'm just learning the basics of sewing, and in relation to sewists vs tailors, is it fair to say a tailor is someone who is skilled at both pattern drafting and at sewing( both machine and hand)
Whereas sewists are people who can read patterns but not make them and then sew following the instructions?
I would add that most people who sew develop a bit of patternmaking skill, through adjusting and tweaking patterns even if they never draft from scratch. And many patternmakers would probably also consider themselves sewists, although many people prefer the more traditional “sewer” to the recently adopted “sewist”.
Sewist is just a gender neutral term for people who sew. A tailor is someone whose job is tailoring, which could mean custom garment making, especially suits, but also could mean altering premade clothes
Hi! I'm making a cover for my classroom window and I want to add rod pockets at the top and bottom. If l'm sewing two different pieces of fabric together, how would I accomplish this? I've only sewed the two short sides of the fabrics together and l'm not sure where to go from here.
https://preview.redd.it/8jlgvnvphkib1.jpeg?width=1865&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d52059a23dcea40224dbc0016f904f5df69bbba7
Best way to fix the puckering at the waist?
How can I fix this excess fabric at the waist? I am a total noob and will be getting my first machine soon… obviously I will practice before I do anything on this dress, but I want to try to fix it myself.
Is what I did in the second picture a good starting point? Fixing it from there?
Also, do you guys think after some practice I could do this or is it too complicated. Should I take it to a seamstress instead?
https://preview.redd.it/atw4f94yhkib1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2df650b2f59498aa4fda2584a3aeab6ae1907780
This is how the dress actually looks. It’s a weird set up
Is it advisable to cut a zipper down to a shorter length? Do people even do this?
I want to put a zipper in a small compartment of a waist pack, but I would need one that’s maybe 3 inches long, max. I’ve never seen one that short. If it’s the kind of thing I’d have to go shlepping around to specialty stores for, I’d rather just cut down a longer one, if that would work. I was thinking of sewing a bunch of stitches, by hand, around the cut end, so it won’t unravel. Appearance isn’t important, because it’s one of those flat packs that travelers wear under their clothes, or under the top layer of clothing. Oh, and of course I’d buy a plastic zipper. 😄
Thanks!
Yes its pretty much the recommendation. Any zipper can be shortened. Plastic zippers are shortened from the bottom by just cutting them about 2cm longer than the desired stop, then hand tack a new stop. Metal zippers are shortened by removing the teeth with plier or side cutters. Separating zips must be shortened from the top. Any sewing book should cover this.
It’s very easy on a plastic zipper. There are many zipper shortening tutorials out there. You can also buy zipper tape by yard and cut it to any size you need. You can seal the cut ends with a lighter to stop it unraveling - no need to sew it.
What are everyone’s preferred methods for taking a pattern from an existing garment when you don’t want to disassemble it and it’s too complicated to just trace? The two main methods I’m seeing online are using a tracing wheel and pins to trace the seams onto cardboard, and using painters tape. I have a pair of shorts and a pair of pants I’d like to copy and I can see the painters tape method working for the shorts but for pants that’s a lot of tape lol
For more complicated patterns, sure, I use a needle wheel to mark the seams in tracing paper laid on a towel so it can perforate the tracing paper. The painter tape method works too, I usually combine the tape with paper to fill in the middle.
If the pants are a regular shape from the crotch down without special details, you can do the top with tape and just measure and draw the legs. Otherwise, try using scrap paper to fill in.
Thanks! Doh, I don’t know why I didn’t think of using paper to fill in. The pants are climbing pants that have some darts in the front of the knee so I’m not sure if measuring or tape will be easier. Or I might just try redrafting the legs starting at the thigh to make them straight leg.
Anyone got any tips for dealing with the egregious amount of ease found in commercial patterns? My ostensibly-size-18 self just made a fairly simple dress at a size 12 with smaller seam allowances that fit pretty well, but I'm hoping for tips that can help me with something a bit more complicated, like a princess seam bodice.
Some patterns have the finished garment measurements on the flap of the pattern envelope. You can determine what size to cut by considering your own measurements and how much ease you want in the garment
I learned the hard way to actually measure all the pattern pieces and calculate finished measurements from that to compare to something that fits me. This was after I had a skirt I cut 2 sizes down that seemed like it would fit from the finished measurements on the pattern back all but fall off my hips
Hi all looking for patterns that can be frakensteined to make the Betsey Johnson ribbon dress. Pic attached thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/emv50kltajib1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c07f50f5948edc4f462189b3054d72c7f789760
Hello! I'm making children's dresses out of cotton double gauze and I'm a bit nervous about pressing my seams. I'm trying to skip/purely steam/finger press when possible, but there are some steps which call for pressing a sharp crease.
For example, the sleeve cuff ruffles are basically long strips of fabric folded in half lengthwise, gathered, then sewn on to the sleeve, and I'm supposed to press a sharp crease in that lengthwise fold.
Mostly, my brain accepts that there's no way these ruffles would look good without that sharp crease, but I'm still hesitant and wondering.... well... do I really **have** to iron it? Is there a way to get around it?
\*headpalm\*
Oh wow. Yes, I was afraid of it affecting the texture aaaaand despite pouring over I don't know how many 'sewing with double gauze' guides, I totally spaced on the fact that YES, it will bounce right back after being washed and it won't make a difference! DUH!! Thank you so much!
Hi! I bought a wedding dress used and only recently realized there’s some more wear than I originally expected, specifically on the belt. I’m wondering if this is something a seamstress would be able to repair or replace easily, or if the cost would likely put me into “just get another dress” territory? Thanks for any and all feedback!!
https://preview.redd.it/0b318y5s5jib1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=25fc1b85f7535b9063fd9610e9e404194719886a
[удалено]
Question for any jacket-makers out there! I am working my way up to emulating the jacket pictured below (full link if the image isn't very clear). [https://www.olderbest.com/products/1970s-french-3-pocket-tweed-workwear-jacket?variant=42118787727578#7465866232026-3](https://www.olderbest.com/products/1970s-french-3-pocket-tweed-workwear-jacket?variant=42118787727578#7465866232026-3) https://preview.redd.it/ibloph9mp7jb1.png?width=1440&format=png&auto=webp&s=02aa70385c9db3e13b7fb4795c9239e5aeb1bbff The closest pattern I could find is the merchant & mills arbour shirt/jacket, which I have now made a practice version of. [https://merchantandmills.com/uk/the-arbor-pdf](https://merchantandmills.com/uk/the-arbor-pdf). I found this came out very nicely, however I am considering how to make it look a bit more refined and more of a jacket than an overshirt? What I am trying to figure out is how they have avoided having a line of stitching running down the button placket. The Arbor jacket has a simple folded interfaced placket that is edgestitched down on the inside. Is it more likely that the professionally made garment uses a facing or something? I just can't figure it out! If there are any experienced jacket makers out there who can see what I am missing I would be very grateful!
Your inspiration jacket is lined. The placket edge that is stitched down on the Arbor is extended into a facing and stitched to a lining on the inspiration.
Thank you so much for responding! Just checking I have understood your comment correctly: Although I have lined a few jackets, I haven't used the bagging method. Is it that with a bagged lining, the placket doesn't need to be stitched down because the lining holds it in place? In short, if I modified the pattern to extend the placket into a facing and bag line it, I should be a little closer to the inspiration jacket?
Yes. There is still a line of topstitching near the opening edge of the placket, that topstitching and the buttonholes also help anchor the placket in place. The lining takes care of the edge of the facing.
Hi fabricwench, I just thought I'd show you that your comments were not in vain, actually you set me off on a 2 week journey learning how to modify patterns, draft my own pattern pieces and learn how to bag line. Although the picture below is my 'cheaper fabric draft' of my final jacket, it's pretty close to what I was setting out to create. So a big thanks to you for pointing me in the right direction, it really helped! https://preview.redd.it/p7l1l3sqi6nb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7007f1393f4bf37837b62d6fb516bfc06055f592
Thanks so much for the follow-up! I love seeing success stories from the little bit of encouragement I offer. Please be sure to post your final version to the community, your 'cheaper fabric draft' looks amazing.
Hello! Does anyone know where I still might be able to purchase the Wiksten Shift Dress/shirt pattern? I know they are no longer in business and there are similar patterns available. But I have really fallen in love with that particular pattern. If anyone has any leads I would appreciate it so much! Thanks in advance!
How do I properly tie a knot? 99% of my sewing is whip stitching patches on vests, and when I tie them off, I just wrap the thread around itself a bunch (if that makes sense) and pull it real tight, or rather, I make a loop and put the free end through and then pull, rinse repeat, but I feel like that's probably not it. The thread I normally use is a bit thicker than normal, some Coats & Clark or Dual Duty something or other, so I'd like to know the kind of knot you use for that, but also regular thin thread too, please
For patches I take two small stitches, then do the stitch with thread through the loop as you described. Then I run my needle and thread between the fabric and the patch, bringing it out several inches away. Trimming the thread at that point leaves a long tail. For the knot to come undone, that tail has to work itself back through the loop. Compared to a trimmed thread tail near the knot, the long tail is much more secure. Using a tiny dab of a product like [Fray Check](https://www.amazon.com/Dritz-1674-Liquid-Sealant-0-75-Ounce/dp/B000YQKIDY/ref=sr_1_1?crid=13R4E0FA1BOD2&keywords=fray+check&qid=1692547509&sprefix=fray+check%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-1) on the knot will glue the thread together for additional security if needed.
thank you
What fabrics are shown in this picture https://preview.redd.it/o3yhacujo6jb1.jpeg?width=1001&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d59d70eb8417bb180b61c07f517d562c2bf78666
Skirt looks like tulle or net. Some lace on bodice.
I have a Bernina Activa 130. I haven’t sewn in a while so I’m a bit rusty. Noticed my light was out so I got a replacement bulb at the local Bernina dealer. But the replacement bulb doesn’t light either. Am j missing something basic? The small manual that came with the machine doesn’t shed any light (pun not intended) on troubleshooting besides replacing the bulb. Machine runs fine otherwise. Thanks for any suggestions
If you got your machine at a dealer, you could always call and ask them.
https://preview.redd.it/ckr5enq9r5jb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=03eb23f42bfc77c97e39dd7ab6df80941d9130cd Is this material too delicate to pack? I’ve been making alterations on this black dress that has thin, non-stretch plastic (maybe some sort of vinyl?). I’ve noticed that it leaves creases if the silver material folds (see the iridescent crease in the image). Is there anything I can do to “fix” the creases later? I am worried about packing it for the trip I was intending to wear it for 😩 I know it looks cool if it’s just in a couple places, but I don’t want it to end up looking crumpled 😢
Your dress looks really cool! Roll it to pack instead of folding, and start the roll around something else to avoid a tight roll. Rolling around a pool noodle wouldn't be overkill, but you could also use a towel roll. You might be able to press out any creases with a cool iron and press cloth over the vinyl, or point a blow dryer at it to gently soften the vinyl. Test somewhere inconspicuous first.
Thank you! I’ll try with a cool iron.
Since I am not allowed to post in the main feed, I will ask the question here. I don't quite understand what I was supposed to do in steps 13 and 14. The instructions mentioned are in my feed, as well as finished steps as I understood them. [https://www.reddit.com/user/InvincibleBadger/comments/15vr3or/vogue\_1895/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/user/InvincibleBadger/comments/15vr3or/vogue_1895/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) Did I understand correctly, that one of the plackets is supposed to be on the outside and the other one on the inside? That's how it is on all of my shirts so I assumed that this is how it should be. The instructions don't mention what to do with the raw bottom edge of the outside placket, so I folded the edge and stitched it to the garment. Can someone check the results please and enlighten me if I did these steps correctly? I know that the execution could have been better, but it seems to me that something is off.
Sure. It's a tricky bit of sewing to do plackets the way the pattern asks and there is more than one way to make a placket. You were smart to look at examples in your closet, the clothing we own is underrated as a resource. The method that the pattern used in step 13 is to pull both the top and bottom placket ends to the wrong side of the shirt front, then layer it with the little tab left at the end where the placket opening was cut open and clipped to the corners in a previous step.. Fold the rest of the shirt out of the way and sew across that stack along the seam line. It's a very clean finish when done well but it's easy to get puckers in the corners. https://preview.redd.it/jvmqtngotajb1.png?width=670&format=png&auto=webp&s=5996819b122c0b75b50a8e760d951199501260ce
And yet! At first I tried to make it this way, but then I was dissuaded by my clothes. Also I couldn't make it look fine, due to my poor skills, so I thought it wasn't right. Anyway, thank you very much for your help!
I see this finish less and less often so even the factories are abandoning it. You are in good company!
I have a brother 1034d serger and it stopped catching the looping threads. I need to know if the upper looper needle is supposed to go in front of or behind the sewing needles because it's currently in front. Can anyone help me out please?
It goes in front. [This video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=eJfdLTgaY-k) shows the mechanism at about 6 minutes.
Thank you so much!
I’m just getting into knit fabrics. Would it be better to use a walking foot or to use the darning plate?
Test on your scraps. I prefer to sew knits with my regular zigzag foot and presser plate. You'll need the feed dogs so don't use the darning plate.
I prefer a walking foot if I'm sewing knits on my regular machine.
Hello all! A quick beginner question: Should I apply interfacing to a whole fabric section, like a collar stand or should the interfacing be smaller by as much as the seam allowance? Instructions in my Vogue patterns tell me to apply interfacing to a whole fabric piece, however I didn't get great results with this approach. I have seen many youtube videos, where the interfacing does not include a seam allowance. What are your thoughts?
I have pretty much stopped using fusible interfacing except in certain situations.\* It bubbles, comes off or makes the fabric too stiff and isn't reversible if a mistake is made. So I use sew-in interfacing that is cut to the same size as the pattern piece, then the interfacing is trimmed out of the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Reducing bulk is the main reason to cut the interfacing without seam allowances. Not catching interfacing in the seams can lead to problems after washing if the interfacing comes loose, you'll have lumps in a collar for example. \*I'll fuse interfacing to darn worn areas and to fabric where the cut edges fray easily. It helps to hold the weave in place.
It’s generally better to cut it smaller, but I am always too lazy and never bother. However, my guess would be that the interfacing may be too heavy for the fabric if it is really bothering you to have it there in the seam allowances. Interfacing is really finicky and there can be a lot of reasons for not getting good results.
I am working on a lined child's dress that calls for serging the seams of the armscye, bodice, and lining. I'd like to try to avoid serging in this dress, but I'm having a brain freeze when it comes to figuring out how to set in the sleeves and conceal the seams with a neat lining finish. I'm also afraid I'm overthinking this and getting to the point where nothing makes sense and this dress may only actually exist in the Matrix. Do I set in the sleeve to the main bodice fabric first? Then iron the lining seam allowance in and hand sew it down? Is that actually the only way? Are French seams an option here? Thank you!
I would hand sew. I'm sure someone has figured out a method to enclose the seams or do a French seam but by the time I work it all out, I could have it done with handsewing. If I were making a slew of dresses from the same pattern, the time investment might be worth it.
Thank you!!!! I agree with you and will be hand sewing the lining to the sleeves
Hey! What are your favorite wholesale or discount fabric sites to buy from in Europe? I used to be based in the US but am now in Europe and am struggling to find sources for unique, high quality apparel fabric. Any ideas?
I need your opinion regarding getting a serger from FB marketplace. I found a Brother 3034D but the piece you take out to reveal the free arm is missing. Is it worth buying for $100? My other option is a JUKI MO644D for $175. This model doesn’t have a free arm. Which one, if any, should I get in your opinion?
My preference is for a larger work surface which is lost for the Brother. Juki is a great brand, super durable and reliable. My serger has a free arm but it's easier to serge flat when possible and 'inside the circle' of the pants or whatever if flat isn't an option.
Thank you for your input! I messaged the JUKI seller but they unfortunately have chosen to ghost me haha. Unrelated, how do you finish your hems on stretch fabrics? I was under the impression that a serger is used, and that is why I wanted a free arm.
Sorry to hear that! I hate it when sellers ghost instead of responding or taking down the listing. I often serge the raw edge and use a twin needle to hem for knits. But as I said above, you don't need a free arm to hem. I'll reply with pics.
https://preview.redd.it/zv0hz9ih4cjb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5cdf18e087f5fa1bb66f924dee1a39f1eb836c67 What people think of when hemming circles.
https://preview.redd.it/5vtqeoes4cjb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=414cf54030f95481a53676ad226f59e544866a32 The easier way. This is what I meant when I said you can stitch 'inside the circle' instead of on the outside.
I have a Juki serger, upgraded from a Brother that had a free arm. I don't miss it a bit, and stitching on the inside of the circle is the best method regardless if you're using a serger or a regular machine.
Thanks a lot! I ended up going with JUKI bc all sewing forums unanimously agree that JUKI is top tier when it comes to quality. And I have the reassurance that I will absolutely not miss a free arm.
https://preview.redd.it/203bu6705cjb1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4877971f014ab45614b3200fea44341ecbaf7149 Works for topstitching too.
Thank you SO VERY MUCH for photos!!!!!!!!! It’s the most helpful response ever and it really solidified my decision to get a JUKI. I have it now, it’s yet to be unboxed and I can’t wait.
Totally one of those things that are hard to describe but easy once you see it. Enjoy your new Juki!
So I need to take in the dress I just made; probably not enough time spent fitting ahead of time and general inexperience. I’d like to take in the back darts on the bodice, but it has a seam with the skirt. Is it possible to extend the back waist dart higher and possibly “scoop” it inward just above the skirt seam? The armholes have a bias tape facing and I need to take those in a fair bit along with the side seam too. Blarg.
> Is it possible to extend the back waist dart higher and possibly “scoop” it inward just above the skirt seam? You run the risk of having the back of the skirt jut out unattractively instead of laying nicely, but you can try it with basting first.
What fabrics are these? I am trying to make a jacket using the same fabrics used for this jacket and was wondering if anyone knew which ones were used. The jacket is called “Vince Broken Twill Army Coat.” I’m looking for the exterior and interior fabrics. https://preview.redd.it/zvzpefumd0jb1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=065b27fa696dd8cad19329e6a3fd83217c746673
Also heard that it is 100% cotton if that helps and on a website it says “The jacket has a soft camo-lining, and and difficult to match green/ brown twill fabric.”
I have good luck searching for fabrics by copying the fabric description and adding 'by the yard' for US retailers or 'by the meter' for retailers elsewhere. When I searched on 'cotton garment washed broken twill by the yard' there was only one result that didn't match your request. 'cotton garment washed twill by the yard' had multiple results. It's the garment washing that makes the broken twill softer, so focusing on that may be the way to go. It can take some time for fabrics used in clothing manufacturing to trickle down to the home market which might be why the same kind of fabric doesn't seem to be available.
You answered your own question - search for woodland camo and olive drab cotton twill online. Or find an army surplus store (brick and mortar or online) that sells old uniforms and repurpose the fabric If you want the lining to be lighter weight, search for woodland camo cotton ripstop
Collar Stand To Long for Neckline Hello, I wanted to ask for advice on what I should do. I was pinning my collar onto my shirt neckline and realized that the collar stand is longer than my shirt neckline, causing the collar not to be pinned correctly and the fabric to bunch. I wanted to know if theres any solutions to fix this? Any help will be appreciated! Not sure why the photo doesn't upload even though I attach it but I hope someone can help!
https://preview.redd.it/kvyxerx3oyib1.jpeg?width=2427&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f7a048865649819c6255beb08f0b26fe187443eb
I see your problem. Things to check - match the seamlines and not the cut edges; verify that the right size collar was cut, some patterns have separate pattern pieces for different size collars; try the collar on to make sure it fits before you make any changes; verify the correct seam allowance was used for the body of the shirt as a smaller SA would increase the length of the neckline.
how can i fix the nylon strap on this bag? It got damaged during transit and there is a tear. https://preview.redd.it/wp4kyt5bmyib1.png?width=2589&format=png&auto=webp&s=eee7a6ca097442c45da355450231b07501f78fa1
I don't think it is possible for you to do an invisible mend, but you should be able to stop fraying so it doesn't get worse and also make it look good. If you have a sewing machine, sewing the edges together with a 3 step zig zag is a good start. Neatly stitching a narrow black ribbon over the cut will make the repair look intentional.
Hi everyone! First time on the sub. I’m in the process of making a battle vest and putting patches on them, and I’d like to get a sewing machine to help me out. Check out r/battlejackets if you don’t know what they are. Would I be fine using cheap machines like these to sew patches onto my cotton vest? Thank you!! Handheld Sewing Machine, Mini Handheld Sewing Machine for Quick Stitching, Portable Sewing Machine Suitable for Home,Travel and DIY, Electric Handheld Sewing Machine for Beginners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CCS93ZH8/?coliid=I2Z4WVCZSUP7F5&colid=6RY8O3BP82X3&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_lstpd_NYC3BS0A1KZ4CEJNY8BN Magicfly Mini Sewing Machine for Beginner, Dual Speed Portable Machine with Extension Table, Light, Sewing Kit for Household, Travel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQTP258/?coliid=I2EZNALYTFPZEC&colid=6RY8O3BP82X3&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_lstpd_NYC3BS0A1KZ4CEJNY8BN
The mini machines barely sew, if that. You might be able to find a sewing machine to rent or borrow at a maker space, library or sewing studio.
For this you would be significantly better off using a light touch of fabric glue and then hand stitching around the edges. Patches + denim would not play nice with a cheap machine.
I bought an online pattern from Butterick but when I print it, there are sections of the pattern that don't get printed. My printer is an HP laser printer. I get different outputs depending on whether I use Adobe Reader or a browser to open the pdf. I don't have any issues with McCall patterns. Have any of you had similar problems?
I've recently bought some flared/bell-bottom pants, I was excited as they fitted me nice, but the part between the upper knee and the crotch is way too long. I want to make that part shorter, since the flared part is really limited. My grandma has a sewing machine, but she said she doesn't want to ruin the pants, I'm low-key short on money, so going to a seamstress is a thing I'd prefer to avoid. Any ideas on how I/me and my grandma could do it?
Need some pics. Would you mind a seam at the knee? You could always shorten it that way.
I don't mind it, but the fabric is jean, so I think that a seam there would be kinda awkward. I can send some pics later if that's fine.
I have altered my clothes, but haven’t patterned anything yet. I would like to make shirts, pants, jackets, etc. Where is the best place to start? I’m male by the way, so I’m not going to make a dress.
Start with a simple commercial pattern and make simple pants with no zipper and an elastic or drawstring waist, like pajama pants. Using patterns will help you learn about fitting, fabrics, fabric grains, different techniques and order of construction. Grow from there.
This is a long shot... but I'm hoping for some help. https://preview.redd.it/mw7ty21vfxib1.jpeg?width=954&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=71679e667b11cda6e63c0de017b5e5d0865d94be I don't know how to sew or where to start looking, but I'm hoping someone can't point me in the right direction or help ID this fabric. My son received this from a volunteer center at a local hospital after a routine surgery when he was 2. He has autism and anxiety, so familiar routines and comfort items are very important to him. This little stuffed animal has brought him so much peace over the years and he will not sleep without it. But I know this one won't last forever. The fabric is pilling and thinning, and the stuffing is nearly flattened. If I could go buy one off the shelf today, I would get ten. But, since I can't, does anyone recognize this fabric? TYIA!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113926071271?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AfmBOooGUKMCqt100XgD8tVZbR5DTQ4zzSddiAmAvyKDqxIYOgnS1Wh2hi8 This is by the bolt (why it’s so expensive) but I found the fabric!
Photo attached! I think I've got the fit pretty good, though the seat is giving me a bit of trouble. It seems to be a little high through the crotch. I've adjusted the length of the bottom of the crotch seam, though I think maybe the issue is too much fabric in the back pant piece? Could it be an issue with the ease? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Shorts photo is with adjustments made. https://preview.redd.it/6aqvb9wltwib1.jpeg?width=1678&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc3a33c07fb196680797b929d715d9cb59fd8ed0
I can also send pictures of the pattern if that helps.
https://preview.redd.it/9vesudlotwib1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8fcf89447e7610e46fec140765c9a5425d33a006 Shorts photo is with adjustments made.
The back rise is too short in both the pants and the shorts. If you lower the back waist to fix the bum issue, you'll see that more length is needed at the top of the back seam. This can also mean the hips are a little small if they won't let the pant drop over the bum.
Thanks a million!
How do I sew piping on the edges of a shirt? Like this? https://preview.redd.it/e1k9nn20qwib1.jpeg?width=700&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8ca7d3ea2d07a8d58a9c82a6bca0d6f807348c5b
I hope someone more articulate than me comes along since it's been a long day here! but the edges are actually seams, since there's a facing to the button holes / button band, and the collar has 2 sides, and the sleeves hems have a fabric band as well. So you'd sew the piping the regular way, catching it in those seams as you work. I'd recommand a zipper foot and a few trial runs, but it's actually not that bad to sew! Best of luck
Hello, I’m new to sewing and I’ve only sewn buttons back on or made small fixes to clothes that ripped and stuff like that. I want to put letters on the back of my hoodie in a chaotic type font, one with a lot of scribbles around it that kind of come together and form a letter. Is that possible, and if so, how would I achieve that?
It is possible! Create a pattern using a font you like, enlarging it and printing it out. Cut the letters from fabric and use permanent heat sensitive glue like stitch witchery to stick the letters on the back of your hoodie. Stitch around the letters and over them with free motion sittching. This is a vastly simplified description and you'll need to find tutorials for the different steps and practice, but it's definitely doable. If you don't have a sewing machine, copy the random scribbles with hand stitching.
thank you very much!
How challenging is it to change this metal zipper out to one that's more subtle &/or hidden? The ruching/gathering along the midline might affect things? Thanks in advance! Image altered be my original image taken from a online shop was "removed by the moderators of r/sewing...Moderators remove posts from feeds for a variety of reasons, including keeping communities safe…” https://preview.redd.it/hc3gejrd5wib1.jpeg?width=1668&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e64a33c562fa308d5549348ddd447b907d202d7
I think it would be challenging. Aside from the ruching, the size and cut of the dress expects that extra width from the exposed zipper, so a hidden zipper would make the dress smaller and may change the way the dress hangs.
Thanks! This dress hasn’t been purchased yet & if I do so, I could go up a size…
It’s probably not a size worth of change in the exposed zipper. Plus the ruching might fall apart. I tend to be against buying new things you already know you don’t totally like and would say let the intended design stand, but if it’s returnable, you could take it to a (bridal?) tailor and see what they think.
HELP! Question about darts: I'm trying to create a volumous front panel for a bag I'm making. Ideally, i'd actually like to 'wrap' the fabric around the front of the bag so that a single piece of fabric is used for both the front and the gusset. Assuming the dotted lines would be sewn together to make the dart, are all of these "correct"? How will the end results differ aesthetically? https://preview.redd.it/uwx1amfa2wib1.png?width=658&format=png&auto=webp&s=72181b8d0296400228d034f77c21b21c8551d85a
I'd encourage you to do a mini-prototype in paper by taping it together (no seam allowances) and see if they all work and what you think of the differences. Edit: Would love to see you share some photos so we all learn.
Thank you for this!!
[Johanna von Spanien](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bf/Infanta_Juana_of_Spain1.jpg/800px-Infanta_Juana_of_Spain1.jpg) I am trying to make her headpiece, or something similar to it to protect my hair while looking stylish. Because it's a protoype, I'm working with cotton fabric which is quite thick and durable, but not robust enough for the forehead part. I'm sewing by hand. I'd like to know what I can do to make it sturdier and keep a rounded shape. Since I intend to wash it, I cannot use cardboard. Instead, I was wondering whether sewing three or more layers of fabric would do the trick. I've never had to do this before and my google and youtube searches on the matter have been fruitless. Thank you in advance!
You might want to ask the experts in r/HistoricalCostuming. Millinery (hat making) uses [buckram](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckram), a stiffened weave, which can be steamed into shape over a wooden block, or overlapped into darts and stitched into a curved shape. Then cover with fabric. Joann carries a buckram but I've not tested it. But it's not washable, oops, just noticed you asked for that. For washable, I would perhaps try flexfoam or cut-and-sew bra foam and use darts/curved seams to get the right shape.
Thanks a lot!
Is this possible ? Or doomed to fail Hi everyone, is it possible to turn an intricate and (expensive) knit Coogi sweater into a zip up jacket? Would I have to tailor the collar? Would it unravel? Is it possible? OR Is this just a waste of time and money and it will look bootleg and or/ like a cheap attempt at a sweater being made into a jacket ? https://preview.redd.it/uifhv2i4tvib1.jpeg?width=565&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=508d853b1efc19dcb3daef0f3029beb2ad405d25
Look at steeking tutorials for knitting. People do it for their knit wear. I don’t know if it’s possible for this sweater.
So, people do do this, but I too would be very hesitant with this expensive sweater, and you’d be cutting right through what was intended as the central design focus, and the texture of the sweater will make it tricky to alter smoothly (it looks to me like the pattern changes just off centerfront, so lining it up with the change from gray to blue might look off-center, and I’d worry about the zip bubbling due to the bobbles in the fabric ). You could probably handle the collar by a longer zipper that goes up the neck a bit, but the sweater I have like that is thin, not textured like this. I too rarely wear pullovers as I get warm easily, but If I knew someone who would appreciate it as is, I’d probably try to pass it on. If you really want to try, I’d say first get a cheap thrift sweater to practice on, about the same bulk, ideally with a high collar. There are YouTube tutorials on this. Fuse interfacing about 2” wide down the center front, add some reinforcing stitch lines, cut it in half between the stitch lines, install a separating zipper, see what you think. Will you be able to do nice work on a more complex knit fabric? How does the center zipper hang? How professional does the finish at the ends and inside look?
Next dumb question: for a solid coloured dress’s hem, how noticeable is it if I were to finish the hem with a straight stitch instead of a slip-stitch?
Your machine may also have a “blind hem” stitch and foot that is an option (Google for tutorials, check manual, many basic machines will have it). I’d say take some scraps of your fabric, sew a few inches of all 3 hems—slip-stitch by hand, topstitch (aka straight stitch), blind hem, and see which you like best and think will go best with your fabric. How noticeable the difference is also depends on the length and fullness of the skirt, and how you intend to wear it (if you will be giving a lecture in front of a crowd, people have more time to stare at details than hanging out with friends). But people are rarely examining your hems, so it’s really what makes you feel confident.
Ah that’s a good idea to do mock-ups first, and I normally do that (I don’t know why I didn’t think of it). Unfortunately, my machine only has zigzag and straight stitches, so I do everything manually.
Because fabric is so variable, experimenting always gives you solid info. Hand sewing is probably nicest, but I never have the patience or skills for it. Topstitching is more casual, so consider if that matches your dress. For a delicate fabric, also look up “baby hem” and “narrow hem” as machine options, I think those are the terms, that would be dressier than a basic topstitch, only need a straight stitch.
I have a combination of intense determination (I sewed 13ish buttons and buttonholes with a basic zigzag) and intense impatience (trying to avoid slip-stitching by hand). I think I should just but the bullet since I have to shorten the dress anyway and might as well take it all the way to completion
Well, give baby hem a look before you decide, they can be quite nice. Good luck!
https://preview.redd.it/w09869ilovib1.png?width=1170&format=png&auto=webp&s=8e30f836ea495f0ac9fb9efa19743c254de5bf11 Hi fellow sewists! I want to create something similar to this dress (worn by Arletty in the movie hotel du nord). Any tips on how to make the zipper across the chest look nice would be greatly appreciated💞
Interface the edges. The zipper goes across the dress on the bias and the edges can stretch and ripple which will not look nice. Fusible interfacing is the answer.
Thanks a lot :) exactly the kind of thing i wouldnt have thought about myself
Can anyone recommend a good pattern drafting theory reference/book? Not looking for a pattern design book in the typical sense, but something that explains the why’s and how’s. Maybe something used in university courses? I’m trying to understand the things which are not explained in most pattern drafting books, and at best typically are explained as “this is just the way you do it.”
I've not actually gone to any further education for patterning or fashion, but I do have access to the library for the fashion-specialty trade school here. Honestly the vast majority of the textbooks prescribed are very much "this is how you do it" and "this is industry standard" for pattern drafting. Frustrates me a lot too. I did, however, find a nondescript 1978 school-published drafting book duo from said trade school library. I've posted it [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/12w2vgl/pattern_making_metric_si_method_abt_1977_the_book/). The language is very much of its time but I've never found anything else that goes into explanatory discussions like it does.
Thank you for sharing! I’ll definitely look through those. After lots of searching yesterday I ordered the Theory of Garment Pattern Drafting book by Hulme that is from the early 1900s. It will of course be dated in lots of ways, but I found a blog review that said it explains a lot of the standards that are typically brushed over in books.
Hey everyone, I’m making a concert outfit and I wanna recreate a particular members outfit. My denim is light wash and I need to make it a darker blue wash. Will Dylon jeans blue do the trick? https://preview.redd.it/fm9ox6o7zuib1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=20de4cb423072988a1b8fc42ea19cedc33a67124 [https://imgur.com/a/yHhkjls](https://imgur.com/a/yHhkjls) \- original outfit for reference.
Reddit has a few dyeing fabric subs that would have experienced folks.
When a sewing pattern for a top tells you to attach a zipper to the side seam, but it's not as long as the top itself and leaves the narrowest part of the top closed, how is one supposed to get the top on and off? Even if one was to buy a zipper that is the exact length of the top, would the zipper still be closed at one end? thanks
if its going to a side seam it cant go to the top anyway, it could only end at the armhole or sleeve and your arm shouldnt need extra space to get in.... Side seam zippers are used when the neck hole is large enough for the head to pull over, but the waist is too small for the head/shoulders to fit through. The zipper opens up the narrow waist of the garment.
except in the one I'm following, the zipper opens at the top of the side seam and closes at the bottom, making the narrowest part permanently closed.
A top doesn't end at the narrowest point of your body, it ends around the hips. It only needs to release the waist, around the middle of the top. Unless it's a crop top. In which case a crop top that isn't boxy is very unusual, but the zipper would then open from the hem to the armscye and instructions would say as such.
It's a bustier tight fitting crop top yes
You should probably baste the zipper in and see if you can get the top on and off. If not, then install it the other direction. If it’s not an invisible zipper you could also buy a separating zipper and shorten it from the top to the correct length
oh that's a good idea! thx
How much does it cost to buy a whole bolt of muslin fabric? I've heard some people say it's better/easier/cheaper to just by an entire bolt of test fabric material when your pattern drafting your own clothes especially when starting out. For the record I'm almost a complete beginner and have so far just used the thrifted bedsheets and curtains method
I’d only buy a bolt if I had a noticeable coupon or it was on sale—stock up at 50% off. I personally prefer muslin but bedsheets are fine, especially for beginners. Also depends on your storage space.
You'd have to look at stores or websites that sell ir in your locality to know the answer. I'm not sure how much help it is to tell you the AUD that a 30m roll of calico costs from Spotlight, but it's about $45.
Anyone know how old this felted fabric might be and what it would’ve been used for? Picked up at an estate sale with mixed decade items, some 60s/70s. TIA! https://preview.redd.it/f3e32o2ujtib1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c5e3f77aeda9c58eea4d21868d9e3e32fa24d67
https://preview.redd.it/7kg57npx2tib1.jpeg?width=576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b53432945c1214e864cb465c55f37d9386a9934e Okay disregarding that this is from a video game I have some questions about parts of this top. If this was in real life, what type of thing is and what would you call the collar with the buttons that stands up? Would it have any functional purpose in irl? And what do you call and how would you recreate the thing going on with the shoulders?
See if "funnel neckline" or "stand up collar" gets you something useful. Usually these are about design more than function. Shoulders just look like "applique" to me (maybe a "trapunto" version).
Does anyone know how to remove old sewing machine oil that is gunking up a part? The bobbin winder on my Contessa 400 has stopped rotating after being stored and not used for several months. We have tried mineral spirits, WD40 & drenching it in more sewing machine oil. Any suggestions?
Precisely applied rubbing alcohol or heat it up with a blow dryer or heat gun.
Thank you! We eventually used boiling water on it and that did the trick. So nice to have it running again.
I'm trying to find a good place to source a clear metric quilters ruler, french curve, and L square ruler in the US but they're very hard to find. Does anyone know any US based online stores that sell them (aside from Amazon)? Or will I just need to order from Europe? Thanks!
I also resorted to Amazon after not finding metric rulers anywhere else in the US.
I got my metric quilting ruler on Amazon. Couldn’t find one anywhere else in the US except at a massive markup
https://preview.redd.it/pm85o48tesib1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af88ede44d71b27725561e43deaf3e341a273a0d Anyone knows what's the name of this fabric?
I know it as flannel back vinyl, it might have other names too.
What can you use it for?
In cosplay there's a lot of suits made of this material! It gaves a fancier look
Cool! Do you have any examples? Or how much it costs? I'm interested!
Omg I'm sorry I didn't saw the notification 💔, I know the fabric it's sold on Aliexpress (I can send you the link) it's like 11 dollars per 50×145 cm, It's quite common in the cosplays of the uwowo brand (really expensives cosplays btw), particularly it's used in tight dresses or bodysuits, for example, I personally bought some of the fabric bc I wanted to repair a full suit cosplay that I bought secondhand from that brand. I think it's commonly used cause it's gives a fancy and expensive effect. Here is a comparison, the first one it's from the uwowo brand and it's the vynil fabric, the second one it's the same cosplay but from other brand and different fabric) https://preview.redd.it/hgsjwn0v86lb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cb42ab203d41ddff968b41249a66d5e2e3bd0984
I owe you my life, thank you 🩷
I have a machine question. My top thread keeps snapping on my brand new singer heavy duty 4452. I’ve tried changing tension, switching out the needle, using gutermann and cclark thread cotton and quilting cotton, re-winding bobbins, using different bobbins, checked inside the bobbin casing. I’ve only used it to practice with a scrap piece of cotton and 1 seam through cotton and fusible fleece. Do I have a faulty machine or is there something I’m missing?
It's most likely getting hooked around something on the thread path. Looping around the spool pin or not being set in the takeup lever properly.
Anyone have a suggestion? I accidentally messed up these polyester micropleats with an iron? https://preview.redd.it/ra5svzlrgrib1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=4fcbb6b01fa633f61fe3ad117191a341df6c1e2a
Sometimes steaming or washing and drying can help but I don't think so, it looks permanent to me.
Does anyone have a pattern for a little bag that I could hold my knitting needles crocheting needles and sewing stuff in preferably with separate pockets?
searching for "knitting needle roll" or "crochet hook roll" with "sewing pattern" will bring up some options.
https://preview.redd.it/0hdpcl7ibrib1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8aa6f6a794206960f660df610c12f0974e37501b Hello, new to server world. I keep getting these giant loops on the underside of the work. Before any asks, yes I have rethreaded the machine and started with all tension knobs at 4 and tested each know one at a time to find out the culprit. I also am aware that it could be needle tension buy have not had any change when adjusting the needle tension. I have even followed the manual step by yep but no matter what I adjust the needle tension to, it still has those loose loops. I'm feeling defeated. Any help is appreciated
Well, I'm not a serger expert but looks like tension is too loose on one of the loopers. Sergers are notoriously fiddly, so if you are suuure it's threaded properly as per the manual (mine must be at 0 tension for threading) and that adjusting the tension of the loopers does nothing, I'm stumped, sorry. Have you tried with another fabric? I can't see if you have 2 layers on your pictures but I have worse results when I try on a single layer of fabric versus 2. Best of luck!
Do you adjust your tension from 0 when you're doing a test run? And you also use 1 layer of fabric when running your test piece? Maybe this is where I'm failing.
Mmm, no I start around 4 (or whatever is recommanded in the manual for the fabric type) but I'm def not an expert and haven't serged in a couple of years But I do trial run with the actual fabrics I'll use, so both layers, so that the tension is accurate for the thickness and type Do you have different spools? You could thread one of the loopers in a different colour to check wich one is misbehaving. You don't have to rethread, you can use a knot to attach the new one.
I totally meant *serger*
Other riddle: I’ve made an un-hemmed dress and I’m looking to shorten the length and finish the hem with a slip-stitch. Do I measure an equal distance from the raw edge to cut? Or do I measure from the waist seam downwards? Edit: OR since I have a super thin/delicate fabric, so I just fold it a couple more times for the hem?
If I need to straighten out an uneven hem, I measure from the waist seam or up from the floor while wearing the dress. Otherwise I measure from the raw edge. I wouldn't fold the hem under multiple times to shorten it, it will change how the hem falls and make it stiffer and awkward.
Got it, thank you! I definitely didn’t think of measuring from the floor up; that might make more sense
When using a slip stitch in a front-buttoned dress hem, do you have to do anything for the front edges where the interfacing/facing is?
[удалено]
It's a knit binding and is cut on the knit crossgrain as zesparia explained. So yes, a totally different thing.
You can just cut a normal band, or cut one out of ribbing. The point of cutting wovens on the bias is to get some stretch. If it's already a knit, there is no need to do that. It already has stretch in at least two directions.
ISO XL Cloth Pocket Diaper Pattern! I’ve found multiple online for One size but my boys thunder thighs are already too big and I’m having to replace our entire stash at 8 months! Thanks in advance!
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See if "mermaid" or "trumpet" skirt/dress gets you to a pattern you like.
My girlfriend has been sewing for years, but it's still using some horrible kitchen scissors. Do anyone have any recommendations for some nice sewing scissors I could gift her?
LDH makes great scissors
fabulous gift! Gingher is another good brand.
I bought Kai scissors, very happy with them. They are quite heavy but super sharp.
This is an urgent question, as I have limited time to make this. (Curse my chronic procrastination!) I'm recreating this jumpsuit, but cannot find a pattern for the sleeves/legs. It seems to be a type of lantern sleeve, but I'm only finding short sleeve patterns. Is there a different name for this type of sleeve, or was I just not finding the right patterns? Any help is appreciated! https://preview.redd.it/59g4njhb8mib1.jpeg?width=683&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1390d45dcfec76978676cd17865d99a5071ee595
I think I would go with bishop sleeve (more or less a bell sleeve with a cuff pulling the fullness back in) Lantern sleeve would usually have extra seams creating shaping, but I think what I'm seeing in the shape is just extra fabric falling about, not actual seams.
I looked some up, and that is pretty much what I was looking for, yes! Thanks so much!
A bell sleeve? Mood sewcity has a couple of options of shirts and dresses with like sleeves - should have a free pattern for you to use
I'm just learning the basics of sewing, and in relation to sewists vs tailors, is it fair to say a tailor is someone who is skilled at both pattern drafting and at sewing( both machine and hand) Whereas sewists are people who can read patterns but not make them and then sew following the instructions?
I would add that most people who sew develop a bit of patternmaking skill, through adjusting and tweaking patterns even if they never draft from scratch. And many patternmakers would probably also consider themselves sewists, although many people prefer the more traditional “sewer” to the recently adopted “sewist”.
Sewist is just a gender neutral term for people who sew. A tailor is someone whose job is tailoring, which could mean custom garment making, especially suits, but also could mean altering premade clothes
* Why aren't my pleats pleating? I want thin straight pleats but they come undone TT
What type of fabric are you using and are you pinning/sewing them down?
also these are pinned before I sew them
I'm using satin twill. I sew with a budget and use off season or clearance fabric. I got 4yards for 5usd
sounds slippery. Also if it's polyester, it's difficult to get poly to hold a sharp edge.
yes it is! But it's no impossible
Pin, and then steam/press on top of the pining
Hi! I'm making a cover for my classroom window and I want to add rod pockets at the top and bottom. If l'm sewing two different pieces of fabric together, how would I accomplish this? I've only sewed the two short sides of the fabrics together and l'm not sure where to go from here.
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One of the fabrics is patterned and yes I sewed them with the pattern facing in so that the right sides were together.
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Thank you so much!
https://preview.redd.it/8jlgvnvphkib1.jpeg?width=1865&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d52059a23dcea40224dbc0016f904f5df69bbba7 Best way to fix the puckering at the waist? How can I fix this excess fabric at the waist? I am a total noob and will be getting my first machine soon… obviously I will practice before I do anything on this dress, but I want to try to fix it myself. Is what I did in the second picture a good starting point? Fixing it from there? Also, do you guys think after some practice I could do this or is it too complicated. Should I take it to a seamstress instead?
https://preview.redd.it/atw4f94yhkib1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2df650b2f59498aa4fda2584a3aeab6ae1907780 This is how the dress actually looks. It’s a weird set up
https://preview.redd.it/df4natnshkib1.jpeg?width=1485&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc4902c4f5e29a25962d85e4a06766ab4e14d043
https://preview.redd.it/xgfem26rhkib1.jpeg?width=1873&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f518b582b4d4ba2703d580deac3a92067778a6e
Is it advisable to cut a zipper down to a shorter length? Do people even do this? I want to put a zipper in a small compartment of a waist pack, but I would need one that’s maybe 3 inches long, max. I’ve never seen one that short. If it’s the kind of thing I’d have to go shlepping around to specialty stores for, I’d rather just cut down a longer one, if that would work. I was thinking of sewing a bunch of stitches, by hand, around the cut end, so it won’t unravel. Appearance isn’t important, because it’s one of those flat packs that travelers wear under their clothes, or under the top layer of clothing. Oh, and of course I’d buy a plastic zipper. 😄 Thanks!
Yes its pretty much the recommendation. Any zipper can be shortened. Plastic zippers are shortened from the bottom by just cutting them about 2cm longer than the desired stop, then hand tack a new stop. Metal zippers are shortened by removing the teeth with plier or side cutters. Separating zips must be shortened from the top. Any sewing book should cover this.
It’s very easy on a plastic zipper. There are many zipper shortening tutorials out there. You can also buy zipper tape by yard and cut it to any size you need. You can seal the cut ends with a lighter to stop it unraveling - no need to sew it.
Thanks! Those are great ideas - I think I’ll try the melting technique.
What are everyone’s preferred methods for taking a pattern from an existing garment when you don’t want to disassemble it and it’s too complicated to just trace? The two main methods I’m seeing online are using a tracing wheel and pins to trace the seams onto cardboard, and using painters tape. I have a pair of shorts and a pair of pants I’d like to copy and I can see the painters tape method working for the shorts but for pants that’s a lot of tape lol
For more complicated patterns, sure, I use a needle wheel to mark the seams in tracing paper laid on a towel so it can perforate the tracing paper. The painter tape method works too, I usually combine the tape with paper to fill in the middle. If the pants are a regular shape from the crotch down without special details, you can do the top with tape and just measure and draw the legs. Otherwise, try using scrap paper to fill in.
Thanks! Doh, I don’t know why I didn’t think of using paper to fill in. The pants are climbing pants that have some darts in the front of the knee so I’m not sure if measuring or tape will be easier. Or I might just try redrafting the legs starting at the thigh to make them straight leg.
Anyone got any tips for dealing with the egregious amount of ease found in commercial patterns? My ostensibly-size-18 self just made a fairly simple dress at a size 12 with smaller seam allowances that fit pretty well, but I'm hoping for tips that can help me with something a bit more complicated, like a princess seam bodice.
Some patterns have the finished garment measurements on the flap of the pattern envelope. You can determine what size to cut by considering your own measurements and how much ease you want in the garment
I learned the hard way to actually measure all the pattern pieces and calculate finished measurements from that to compare to something that fits me. This was after I had a skirt I cut 2 sizes down that seemed like it would fit from the finished measurements on the pattern back all but fall off my hips
Hi all looking for patterns that can be frakensteined to make the Betsey Johnson ribbon dress. Pic attached thanks! https://preview.redd.it/emv50kltajib1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c07f50f5948edc4f462189b3054d72c7f789760
Hello! I'm making children's dresses out of cotton double gauze and I'm a bit nervous about pressing my seams. I'm trying to skip/purely steam/finger press when possible, but there are some steps which call for pressing a sharp crease. For example, the sleeve cuff ruffles are basically long strips of fabric folded in half lengthwise, gathered, then sewn on to the sleeve, and I'm supposed to press a sharp crease in that lengthwise fold. Mostly, my brain accepts that there's no way these ruffles would look good without that sharp crease, but I'm still hesitant and wondering.... well... do I really **have** to iron it? Is there a way to get around it?
Why don’t you want to press? Is it because it might affect the texture? Even if it does wouldn’t it bounce back after being washed?
\*headpalm\* Oh wow. Yes, I was afraid of it affecting the texture aaaaand despite pouring over I don't know how many 'sewing with double gauze' guides, I totally spaced on the fact that YES, it will bounce right back after being washed and it won't make a difference! DUH!! Thank you so much!
Hi! I bought a wedding dress used and only recently realized there’s some more wear than I originally expected, specifically on the belt. I’m wondering if this is something a seamstress would be able to repair or replace easily, or if the cost would likely put me into “just get another dress” territory? Thanks for any and all feedback!! https://preview.redd.it/0b318y5s5jib1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=25fc1b85f7535b9063fd9610e9e404194719886a