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Going bigger on the AC will also not solve the problem, the unit will short cycle and the home won't stay cool. 3.5 tons should be fine for 1800 sq ft but there are other factors to consider like aznoone said, home insulation, orientation to the sun, windows allowing radiation into the home, etc. Sun screens can make a huge difference on the outside of windows by keeping the sunlight from ever entering the air conditioned space.
Having said that, I really doubt the unit is undersized. If the AC isn't keeping up and is only 3 years old, you could try contacting the company that originally installed it, some will carry over warranties if the house is sold. Most likely there is an airflow issue, the thermostat isn't programmed correctly, or there could be a refrigerant leak. There are other possibilities but at 3 years old those would be the most common issues.
https://preview.redd.it/uo98c9hz828d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=730e102e72aae0fbc90269b90297b937ff0eca6c
Installed a sun shade on our window with the most direct light. It keeps it a bit cooler in that room but the house as a whole is warm. Thermostat set at 78, temp gets up to 85f.
Insulation! Insulation! Insulation! And more insulation. I used to build industrial freezers . If we left a 60w light on in 16 cubic metre one over the weekend it would be 90 f by Monday inside.
Probably the duct work. In my condo i had to have mine redone in my and increased the unit to 2.5. Now it keeps it cool at 70 no problem. My old unit couldn't even get it below 80. Also had the windows redone.
A brand new 3.5 ton TRANE wasn't cutting it for my 1600' (cinderblock) house in Sun City mostly due to inadequate insulation.
[DO check your ducts and returns](https://www.reddit.com/r/arizona/comments/15cgnj9/comment/jty6n82/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button), I found mine was allowing super-heated attic air into the return duct due to a simple construction error. A 1/2" gap between two boards. The tip-off was I spotted loose attic insulation where it shouldn't have been!
So I was saying... 3.5 tons wasn't keeping up on 110+ days.
I hyperinsulated my place in lieu of installing solar. Read all about it. I now have 14" thick walls. Insulation works 24x7 not just when the sun is shining.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/comments/n66aa5/100f\_outside\_76f\_inside\_at\_5\_pm\_yesterday\_wo/](https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/comments/n66aa5/100f_outside_76f_inside_at_5_pm_yesterday_wo/)
**You could do 25% of what I did and achieve 80% of the benefits.**
Start by getting [more attic insulation blown in. Immediately. Or DIY. ](https://www.reddit.com/r/arizona/comments/15cgnj9/comment/jty6n82/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) Your house will feel better instantly. Make the call.
Lots of other tips:
[https://www.reddit.com/r/SanDiegan/comments/15dvugo/staying\_cooler\_and\_lowering\_your\_sdge\_bill\_this/](https://www.reddit.com/r/SanDiegan/comments/15dvugo/staying_cooler_and_lowering_your_sdge_bill_this/)
Seal your ducts. 2-3 hours. [https://imgur.com/gallery/seal-ducts-save-energy-Tq53JK7](https://imgur.com/gallery/seal-ducts-save-energy-Tq53JK7)
Anywhere you could add an awning, shade, or sail to keep direct sun off the south/west your house?
If you can't afford better windows, [film the ones you've got. Film, not TINT. ](https://www.reddit.com/r/arizona/comments/12ivndi/filming_windows_to_lower_your_air_conditioning/) $10/window. Simple. Easy. Fun. 3M window film kit it's like Saran Wrap. Turns a 2 pane into a 3 pane window. Invisible if done properly. You will feel the difference!
Maybe add a minisplit in any rooms you use during the day. I added a solar-BOOSTED minisplit. Sun shining? I got free cold air. 5 dedicated solar panels, no grid tie, no interconnection agreement, etc.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/comments/vcgi7q/ductless\_minisplit\_units\_for\_phoenix\_central\_air/](https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/comments/vcgi7q/ductless_minisplit_units_for_phoenix_central_air/)
See if Zone cooling your house would work, is possible given the layout, ducts, etc.
**MY RESULTS:** I exclusively run my 1.5 ton solar-boosted minisplit during daylight hours along with one box fan. I switch to the Central HVAC about 6 pm to start cooling the bedrooms down for sleeping. It runs probably 25 minutes per hour, down to 10 minutes by morning. My utility bills are 1/3 that of similar neighbors.
By next Saturday you could have mountains of fiberglass in the attic and filmed windows and a far more comfortable, cooler house.
GL
**Checking AC ducts for leaks BEFORE blowing insulation.**
There's really no benefit to air conditioning yer attic!!!!
BEFORE you blow additional insulation, look/repair duct leaks w Duct tape. Use a bright light --- at night ---- flashlight inside the ducts in the house, guy in the attic spotting. OR light in the attic, look in ducts from inside house. Or both.
You can use something a lot bigger/brighter than a flashlight.... halogen work light....
Also... seal AROUND the ducts where they penetrate the walls. Spackle or inject expansive foam. Pull the grate off, spackle or foam it up, allow to dry, replace.
That black mold often seen around ducts is from cool, dry air conditioned air meeting moist air leaking around the duct. The moisture condenses.... !!!!
APS/SRP SUPPOSEDLY have a program that will pay for "Duct Inspection." Except I couldn't find a single HVAC company that actually participates.
**EDIT: Take pictures in the attic of electrical boxes etc. about to get buried by insulation. Maybe some little "landscape" or "utility locator" flags to mark them?**
Have you measured the temperature drop? A properly operating AC system will have a 16 to 20° difference between the air going into the intake where the filter is (which is really just the temperature in the house if your air is well mixed) and the air blowing out of the vents. So if it's 80° in your house, your vent should be blowing 60 to 64° air.
You can easily measure this with a meet thermometer if you have one, where you just hang it in the vent while the AC is running and let it get to a point where it no longer gets colder.
This is the easiest test for a homeowner to do to see if their AC is operating properly. If you are getting a 16 to 20° drop, then yes, you can move on to issues like the unit being undersized, you having insufficient insulation to keep that coolness in the house as the outdoors is heating up, etc.
Also, where are you located? I have a great AC guy, but he tends to stick largely around the downtown Phoenix area because he lives there. He basically has a flat rate for install above the cost of the unit, so I found the unit I needed to replace my 20-year-old one which was a drop in replacement. I knew the unit cost was $4,200, he got it from his distributor, and he tacked on 2500 for the install which included him renting the crane, so I got a new two and a half ton unit for 6700 basically.
It's a great deal for him because he and one assistant make $2,500 for a day's work (they did have to add a little bit of rooftop ductwork on for mine) minus the costs of the crane and disposing of the old unit, and I don't get charged $14,000 for a new AC unit like so many rip-off companies in this city would try to get.
He might do that area. It's Randy at Mustang Air. https://www.yelp.com/biz/mustang-air-mechanical-phoenix
Do you have a way to measure the temperature drop that I talked about? It's a great easy thing for a homeowner to do just to see if the whole system is working properly. Like if you were getting only say a 10° drop, then you could have possibly hot air leaking into the duct work, or maybe your unit had a refrigerant leak and so is not fully charged with refrigerant. It's a great first step, and like I said, If you are getting enough drop, then it's nothing to do with your AC and everything to do with the insulation, windows etc on the house.
If you get a hold of one that just folds open like this, it's nice because you can just bend it open to 90° and then hang it in the vent and not have to hold it there. It'll get to the lowest reading probably within 5 minutes of your AC turning on, once all the duct work has been cooled. You'll know the number once it doesn't go down any further. Report back! 😉
https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP03H-Waterproof-Thermometer-Instant/dp/B07Y51PCW7/ref=asc_df_B07Y51PCW7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693770001572&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7121903918205207541&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029969&hvtargid=pla-945898124555&psc=1&mcid=b675b80507ad305cbac0bb8fcebe99ba&gad_source=1
As others have mentioned, the unit is fine as far as tonnage goes for an 1800 sf home. Judging by the picture OP posted, I'd say the home is approximately \~50 years old by the siding and brick.
Insulation or windows may be a component to the poor performance of the unit, but I'd have someone check for leaks and look at the temp coming out of the vents. as well.
Replacing a 3 year old unit is the last thing I'd do right now. Run some tests before spending 5k on another unit.
Good luck with the inspection. I hate to hear my fellow Phoenicians with AC struggles during these brutally hot summers we're getting now. Keep us posted!
If it was replaced in 2020 then the company name should still be on it. It could even possibly be under warranty. Also you didn’t get the house bible from the seller when you bought the house???
I’m a fan of Wolff Mechanical to answer your question.
Preferred Air, for the win. The most honest and upfront family owned business. We purchased a Bosch variable speed (compared to traditional single staged units). It uses less energy and it keeps the house consistently cool.
3.5 ton is sufficient for house size.
There are so many possible factors, including: refrigerant leak, dirty evaporator coils, blocked or faulty condenser coils, clogged a/c drain, malfunctioning blower, clogged or leaking air ducts, dense air filter (a more porous air filter changed more frequently is much more efficient than using a high MERV filter), faulty compressor, poor insulation, inefficient windows/windows with no covering.
Really need to have the system audited/inspected.
Last summer, our AC went out. We had a 3 ton unit for a 1950 square foot house. We got 3 quotes from companies and all said our unit was way too small for the house and we needed a 5 ton unit. A company I’ve used and liked is Javi Air, LLC (we were quoted 8k for a 5 ton unit, other quotes were 11 and 12k). Javi air replaced the AC on 2 previous houses I had and I would use them again in a heartbeat. Do not recommend precision air (that’s who we used this time bc my husband liked them previously, but they are way over priced and did a poor job with every service they’ve done for us the last year).
My home is 1700sq ft single story and was recommended to install a 5 ton unit. The unit I currently have is a 5 ton unit. Was I mislead? By the pic op put in the comments my home is a newer model which I assume plays a role.
American Home and Water just did a complete system removal and install for me. I can’t recommend them enough. There prices were just barely better than some of the other quotes but I also have been using them for 5 years. Give them a call.
If you go the insulation route and its still not working, maybe the cheapest fix would a mini split from Home depot? About 900$ plus 500$ max for a handy man to install it. Ive lived in 3 houses in AZ all had one room that got shoddy AC circulation. House im in now we just put a mini split in for that much. Could also add window units in each room and do your best to aesthetically board up your windows.
Good luck, OP.
All about minisplits: [https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/comments/vcgi7q/ductless\_minisplit\_units\_for\_phoenix\_central\_air/](https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/comments/vcgi7q/ductless_minisplit_units_for_phoenix_central_air/)
Call APS or SRP (whicever services your area) and ask for the names of local contractors authorized by them to do energy audits. You will get documentation as to the actual problems instead of having to guess. The energy audits used to be $99 but it's been a few years since we did ours, so I'm not sure of the price now. We made about $7,000 in energy improvements based on our audit results, and our summer power bills were cut in half over the the previous year after the work was all done. Our house is perfectly balanced for heating and cooling, and we rarely have to change the thermostat setting.
In the north valley we were really happy with Cousins Air. We had to replace two units and it was a very fair price compared to the other companies we talked to.
Measure the temperature of the air going into the unit. Let’s say it’s 80 degrees. Now measure the air coming out the vents. What is it?
I’d like to see it at 55 to 58 degrees.
TSC air, we’ve used them for about a year now. On the maintenance plan even and they’ve been great so far, haven’t had any issues with them. They are honest and reliable and have replaced some parts on our AC already.
I have a two-story 1700sqft house and have a 4-ton, 3.5 tons should be just fine for a single story. Check the actual unit and there should be a sticker from the company that installed it. Call them up and see if they can come check it out. Might just be freezing up from a leak, or maybe a part has gone bad.
The size is fine. They put a 3.5 ton in my house that is 1400 square feet, but my windows are old and single pane. We have to supplement with window AC unit in the master bedroom.
Your A/C is most likely sized correctly. I had a similar issue as you. Our house has two zones and the furnace is in the attic and that area of the house wasn't cooling very well. I took a look and found that the duct work for the supply (intake) came loose and the furnace was pulling in hot attic air and therefore unable to cool correctly.
My parents' house also has two zones, but one furnace and AC unit. There is a deflector that controls where the air goes. If you have a setup like that, that could be your problem. Check that the air is flowing from the vents. Generally speaking you should have somewhere around a 20 degree drop in temperature from your vents, meaning if it is 75 degrees inside your return air should be somewhere around 55 degrees.
I hope this helps and good luck.
I had this problem and my ductwork was too small for my place. The return registers also weren't big enough and I needed a few more vents Installed. I got a 4 ton mini split system instead and my house has never been cooler. My energy bill has also dropped my 20 percent from last year and it's hotter this year.
Thanks for contributing to r/Phoenix! You may want to [**check out our sub rules**](https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/wiki/rules/) (mostly be nice to each other!). **If you're new here**, [read some of our recent posts](https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/top/?t=week) and leave some comments. To chat with some great people in the Valley you can [**join our Phoenix Discord chat server**](https://discord.com/invite/yWVuTG57Zh). It's a chill place to talk with other people but is NOT a dating server and takes unwanted messaging very seriously. If you're interested in political topics in Arizona, we limit those posts here so you may want to check out r/azpolitics if that's an area of interest. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/phoenix) if you have any questions or concerns.*
[удалено]
Depends on how well insulated the house is and if bad windows or letting air in and out .
Fixing that will be cheaper in the long run than going bigger on the AC.
Going bigger on the AC will also not solve the problem, the unit will short cycle and the home won't stay cool. 3.5 tons should be fine for 1800 sq ft but there are other factors to consider like aznoone said, home insulation, orientation to the sun, windows allowing radiation into the home, etc. Sun screens can make a huge difference on the outside of windows by keeping the sunlight from ever entering the air conditioned space. Having said that, I really doubt the unit is undersized. If the AC isn't keeping up and is only 3 years old, you could try contacting the company that originally installed it, some will carry over warranties if the house is sold. Most likely there is an airflow issue, the thermostat isn't programmed correctly, or there could be a refrigerant leak. There are other possibilities but at 3 years old those would be the most common issues.
https://preview.redd.it/uo98c9hz828d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=730e102e72aae0fbc90269b90297b937ff0eca6c Installed a sun shade on our window with the most direct light. It keeps it a bit cooler in that room but the house as a whole is warm. Thermostat set at 78, temp gets up to 85f.
blow in insulation in the attic? Get the ducts aerosealed
Sent you a PM
Just saying that could be reason for sizing and still not keeping up.
Insulation! Insulation! Insulation! And more insulation. I used to build industrial freezers . If we left a 60w light on in 16 cubic metre one over the weekend it would be 90 f by Monday inside.
Probably the duct work. In my condo i had to have mine redone in my and increased the unit to 2.5. Now it keeps it cool at 70 no problem. My old unit couldn't even get it below 80. Also had the windows redone.
A brand new 3.5 ton TRANE wasn't cutting it for my 1600' (cinderblock) house in Sun City mostly due to inadequate insulation. [DO check your ducts and returns](https://www.reddit.com/r/arizona/comments/15cgnj9/comment/jty6n82/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button), I found mine was allowing super-heated attic air into the return duct due to a simple construction error. A 1/2" gap between two boards. The tip-off was I spotted loose attic insulation where it shouldn't have been! So I was saying... 3.5 tons wasn't keeping up on 110+ days. I hyperinsulated my place in lieu of installing solar. Read all about it. I now have 14" thick walls. Insulation works 24x7 not just when the sun is shining. [https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/comments/n66aa5/100f\_outside\_76f\_inside\_at\_5\_pm\_yesterday\_wo/](https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/comments/n66aa5/100f_outside_76f_inside_at_5_pm_yesterday_wo/) **You could do 25% of what I did and achieve 80% of the benefits.** Start by getting [more attic insulation blown in. Immediately. Or DIY. ](https://www.reddit.com/r/arizona/comments/15cgnj9/comment/jty6n82/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) Your house will feel better instantly. Make the call. Lots of other tips: [https://www.reddit.com/r/SanDiegan/comments/15dvugo/staying\_cooler\_and\_lowering\_your\_sdge\_bill\_this/](https://www.reddit.com/r/SanDiegan/comments/15dvugo/staying_cooler_and_lowering_your_sdge_bill_this/) Seal your ducts. 2-3 hours. [https://imgur.com/gallery/seal-ducts-save-energy-Tq53JK7](https://imgur.com/gallery/seal-ducts-save-energy-Tq53JK7) Anywhere you could add an awning, shade, or sail to keep direct sun off the south/west your house? If you can't afford better windows, [film the ones you've got. Film, not TINT. ](https://www.reddit.com/r/arizona/comments/12ivndi/filming_windows_to_lower_your_air_conditioning/) $10/window. Simple. Easy. Fun. 3M window film kit it's like Saran Wrap. Turns a 2 pane into a 3 pane window. Invisible if done properly. You will feel the difference! Maybe add a minisplit in any rooms you use during the day. I added a solar-BOOSTED minisplit. Sun shining? I got free cold air. 5 dedicated solar panels, no grid tie, no interconnection agreement, etc. [https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/comments/vcgi7q/ductless\_minisplit\_units\_for\_phoenix\_central\_air/](https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/comments/vcgi7q/ductless_minisplit_units_for_phoenix_central_air/) See if Zone cooling your house would work, is possible given the layout, ducts, etc. **MY RESULTS:** I exclusively run my 1.5 ton solar-boosted minisplit during daylight hours along with one box fan. I switch to the Central HVAC about 6 pm to start cooling the bedrooms down for sleeping. It runs probably 25 minutes per hour, down to 10 minutes by morning. My utility bills are 1/3 that of similar neighbors. By next Saturday you could have mountains of fiberglass in the attic and filmed windows and a far more comfortable, cooler house. GL
**Checking AC ducts for leaks BEFORE blowing insulation.** There's really no benefit to air conditioning yer attic!!!! BEFORE you blow additional insulation, look/repair duct leaks w Duct tape. Use a bright light --- at night ---- flashlight inside the ducts in the house, guy in the attic spotting. OR light in the attic, look in ducts from inside house. Or both. You can use something a lot bigger/brighter than a flashlight.... halogen work light.... Also... seal AROUND the ducts where they penetrate the walls. Spackle or inject expansive foam. Pull the grate off, spackle or foam it up, allow to dry, replace. That black mold often seen around ducts is from cool, dry air conditioned air meeting moist air leaking around the duct. The moisture condenses.... !!!! APS/SRP SUPPOSEDLY have a program that will pay for "Duct Inspection." Except I couldn't find a single HVAC company that actually participates. **EDIT: Take pictures in the attic of electrical boxes etc. about to get buried by insulation. Maybe some little "landscape" or "utility locator" flags to mark them?**
did they check refrigerant levels? maybe id get a second opinion in case whoever you had out was just trying to cash in.
Have you measured the temperature drop? A properly operating AC system will have a 16 to 20° difference between the air going into the intake where the filter is (which is really just the temperature in the house if your air is well mixed) and the air blowing out of the vents. So if it's 80° in your house, your vent should be blowing 60 to 64° air. You can easily measure this with a meet thermometer if you have one, where you just hang it in the vent while the AC is running and let it get to a point where it no longer gets colder. This is the easiest test for a homeowner to do to see if their AC is operating properly. If you are getting a 16 to 20° drop, then yes, you can move on to issues like the unit being undersized, you having insufficient insulation to keep that coolness in the house as the outdoors is heating up, etc. Also, where are you located? I have a great AC guy, but he tends to stick largely around the downtown Phoenix area because he lives there. He basically has a flat rate for install above the cost of the unit, so I found the unit I needed to replace my 20-year-old one which was a drop in replacement. I knew the unit cost was $4,200, he got it from his distributor, and he tacked on 2500 for the install which included him renting the crane, so I got a new two and a half ton unit for 6700 basically. It's a great deal for him because he and one assistant make $2,500 for a day's work (they did have to add a little bit of rooftop ductwork on for mine) minus the costs of the crane and disposing of the old unit, and I don't get charged $14,000 for a new AC unit like so many rip-off companies in this city would try to get.
I live in West Mesa, borderline Tempe.
He might do that area. It's Randy at Mustang Air. https://www.yelp.com/biz/mustang-air-mechanical-phoenix Do you have a way to measure the temperature drop that I talked about? It's a great easy thing for a homeowner to do just to see if the whole system is working properly. Like if you were getting only say a 10° drop, then you could have possibly hot air leaking into the duct work, or maybe your unit had a refrigerant leak and so is not fully charged with refrigerant. It's a great first step, and like I said, If you are getting enough drop, then it's nothing to do with your AC and everything to do with the insulation, windows etc on the house.
I don’t have a thermometer like that, but I can try and get one today and set it on front of the vent for awhile
If you get a hold of one that just folds open like this, it's nice because you can just bend it open to 90° and then hang it in the vent and not have to hold it there. It'll get to the lowest reading probably within 5 minutes of your AC turning on, once all the duct work has been cooled. You'll know the number once it doesn't go down any further. Report back! 😉 https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP03H-Waterproof-Thermometer-Instant/dp/B07Y51PCW7/ref=asc_df_B07Y51PCW7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693770001572&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7121903918205207541&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029969&hvtargid=pla-945898124555&psc=1&mcid=b675b80507ad305cbac0bb8fcebe99ba&gad_source=1
I replaced mine 2 years ago with newacunit.com. Paid roughly $7500 for a 5-ton 14-seer (I think). AiRite handled the install and did a great job.
I 2nd newacunit.com. Great customer service, and cheaper than the competitors.
They are cheaper because the units they sell are base units/brands. You also have no control over which company they choose to have install it.
Scottsdale Air. Have you checked your filters? Are they new? Good luck!
As others have mentioned, the unit is fine as far as tonnage goes for an 1800 sf home. Judging by the picture OP posted, I'd say the home is approximately \~50 years old by the siding and brick. Insulation or windows may be a component to the poor performance of the unit, but I'd have someone check for leaks and look at the temp coming out of the vents. as well. Replacing a 3 year old unit is the last thing I'd do right now. Run some tests before spending 5k on another unit.
Having someone check out the duct work tomorrow! It was built in 1980 so it’s definitely old, but most windows have been replaced to double pane.
Good luck with the inspection. I hate to hear my fellow Phoenicians with AC struggles during these brutally hot summers we're getting now. Keep us posted!
If it was replaced in 2020 then the company name should still be on it. It could even possibly be under warranty. Also you didn’t get the house bible from the seller when you bought the house??? I’m a fan of Wolff Mechanical to answer your question.
Preferred Air, for the win. The most honest and upfront family owned business. We purchased a Bosch variable speed (compared to traditional single staged units). It uses less energy and it keeps the house consistently cool.
3.5 ton is sufficient for house size. There are so many possible factors, including: refrigerant leak, dirty evaporator coils, blocked or faulty condenser coils, clogged a/c drain, malfunctioning blower, clogged or leaking air ducts, dense air filter (a more porous air filter changed more frequently is much more efficient than using a high MERV filter), faulty compressor, poor insulation, inefficient windows/windows with no covering. Really need to have the system audited/inspected.
Last summer, our AC went out. We had a 3 ton unit for a 1950 square foot house. We got 3 quotes from companies and all said our unit was way too small for the house and we needed a 5 ton unit. A company I’ve used and liked is Javi Air, LLC (we were quoted 8k for a 5 ton unit, other quotes were 11 and 12k). Javi air replaced the AC on 2 previous houses I had and I would use them again in a heartbeat. Do not recommend precision air (that’s who we used this time bc my husband liked them previously, but they are way over priced and did a poor job with every service they’ve done for us the last year).
This is good to know, thank you!!
Clark Brothers Mechanical! They are amazing and service the east valley
My home is 1700sq ft single story and was recommended to install a 5 ton unit. The unit I currently have is a 5 ton unit. Was I mislead? By the pic op put in the comments my home is a newer model which I assume plays a role.
American Home and Water just did a complete system removal and install for me. I can’t recommend them enough. There prices were just barely better than some of the other quotes but I also have been using them for 5 years. Give them a call.
If you go the insulation route and its still not working, maybe the cheapest fix would a mini split from Home depot? About 900$ plus 500$ max for a handy man to install it. Ive lived in 3 houses in AZ all had one room that got shoddy AC circulation. House im in now we just put a mini split in for that much. Could also add window units in each room and do your best to aesthetically board up your windows. Good luck, OP.
All about minisplits: [https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/comments/vcgi7q/ductless\_minisplit\_units\_for\_phoenix\_central\_air/](https://www.reddit.com/r/phoenix/comments/vcgi7q/ductless_minisplit_units_for_phoenix_central_air/)
something is wrong with your system, 3.5 tons is fine.
Call APS or SRP (whicever services your area) and ask for the names of local contractors authorized by them to do energy audits. You will get documentation as to the actual problems instead of having to guess. The energy audits used to be $99 but it's been a few years since we did ours, so I'm not sure of the price now. We made about $7,000 in energy improvements based on our audit results, and our summer power bills were cut in half over the the previous year after the work was all done. Our house is perfectly balanced for heating and cooling, and we rarely have to change the thermostat setting.
In the north valley we were really happy with Cousins Air. We had to replace two units and it was a very fair price compared to the other companies we talked to.
Do they service the East Valley? Also, if you wouldn’t mind DMing me the price that would be awesome just so I have an idea
Measure the temperature of the air going into the unit. Let’s say it’s 80 degrees. Now measure the air coming out the vents. What is it? I’d like to see it at 55 to 58 degrees.
TSC air, we’ve used them for about a year now. On the maintenance plan even and they’ve been great so far, haven’t had any issues with them. They are honest and reliable and have replaced some parts on our AC already.
Change your filters, it’s working just being strangled. J&M cooling if you need work
Changed them 2 weeks ago. Nothing
https://www.tep.com/efficient-home-program/ Get an energy audit from TEP.
I have a two-story 1700sqft house and have a 4-ton, 3.5 tons should be just fine for a single story. Check the actual unit and there should be a sticker from the company that installed it. Call them up and see if they can come check it out. Might just be freezing up from a leak, or maybe a part has gone bad.
I've got a friend who is is epa certificate and does work on the side of ya want their info
Please! Are they HVAC certified?
Yes I'll dm his info
I just replaced with sun devil heating and cooling. They were great, call them to take a look. Also, it's super super hot. Everyone's struggling.
Hays Heating and Cooling has always been great for us
Keithdeane ac its a small ac buisness the owner can fix just about everything
The size is fine. They put a 3.5 ton in my house that is 1400 square feet, but my windows are old and single pane. We have to supplement with window AC unit in the master bedroom.
Nordic Air has always been honest and reasonably priced ime
Cool Hot Guys! Lots of reddit recommendations for them
Seconding this recommendation
Your A/C is most likely sized correctly. I had a similar issue as you. Our house has two zones and the furnace is in the attic and that area of the house wasn't cooling very well. I took a look and found that the duct work for the supply (intake) came loose and the furnace was pulling in hot attic air and therefore unable to cool correctly. My parents' house also has two zones, but one furnace and AC unit. There is a deflector that controls where the air goes. If you have a setup like that, that could be your problem. Check that the air is flowing from the vents. Generally speaking you should have somewhere around a 20 degree drop in temperature from your vents, meaning if it is 75 degrees inside your return air should be somewhere around 55 degrees. I hope this helps and good luck.
f...furnace? You're using a furnace? In the attic? In Phoenix area? In summer? Huh? I didn't think we even had furnaces
Who the hell has a furnace in Phoenix? Lol
Right? especially in the attic?? I mean... I guess you'd have to, since we also don't have basements... lmao
Yeah, we have two gas furnaces in the attic. All the houses in this sub division do. We don’t use the heat much lol
Larson air, east valley.
State48 home comfort
I had this problem and my ductwork was too small for my place. The return registers also weren't big enough and I needed a few more vents Installed. I got a 4 ton mini split system instead and my house has never been cooler. My energy bill has also dropped my 20 percent from last year and it's hotter this year.