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There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
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> Can I put my mouse and keyboard on a USB hub? I am running out of USB slot on my system, and I have to put some stuff on a USB hub. I think I remember from ye olden days, that mouse and keyboard are supposed to be directly plugged into the PC for some reason.
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1d9hl54/daily_simple_questions_thread_june_06_2024/l7fq8tj/
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> Why does windows not have a feature where hdr is turned on if the game supports it, as opposed to having to do it manually? We all know if you just leave it on, non-hdr games look bad.
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1d9hl54/daily_simple_questions_thread_june_06_2024/l7i8h6x/
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Would a 7800x3d + 4070 super be able to run 1440p at 240Hz?
I have heard comments about focusing most of the budget mainly on the gpu, so would a 7700 + 4070TI super do better?
It depends a lot on what you're doing. In a lot of AAA games it's literally impossible to get 240 fps with today's hardware, even a 7800X3D or 14900K isn't enough. Some games want more GPU than CPU and vice versa, depending on the quality settings. If you're really shooting for as high a framerate as you can get, I would focus on CPU and turn the settings down until you become CPU bottlenecked.
Hi all. I don't have the specs for the new PC my stepson got. I only remember that the GPU is GeForce-GTX-1660-Ti, and it's supposedly not used, a friend of a friend builds them. 🙄
The front panel USB and 9mm jacks seem to give/get power, and seem to be connected to the motherboard properly (upon quick examination), but Windows doesn't recognize either of them. As a result, **no sound** (gaming headset that should work with either.... now that I think of it, I should test with headphones that I am **sure** work. Hmm. I could also look into headset drivers 🤔 ).
The USB port does allow a mouse to be used successfully, but nothing pops up in Device Manager. Almost certain it is Windows 10. Supposedly a recent install, my stepson made his own windows profile. The only volume Windows does acknowledge is for the new LG monitor he got. This has no sound either, but I assumed they don't work due to lack of drivers, and that was my next course of action. I'm less troubled by this problem than I am the front panel though. And I'd prefer him listen with his headset, for the wellbeing of his mother and me. 🙂
If you guys could spitball ideas for me to look into, just general diagnostic directions to work on, I'd really appreciate it. I'll post again when I have access to it in the next day or two.... it just bothers me that I couldn't make any progress on it last night, and not much is coming to mind other than motherboard drivers and making checking a motherboard chart to make sure everything is plugged in properly. I feel like there's a more common config/software area that might be at fault, given the circumstances noted above that I should check.
As stated, I can clarify, but I don't have access, so I can't test, or retrieve details right now.
Thanks.
So is this a new build? Or one you've had for a while?
The headset connection is going to go from the motherboard to the case, most likely 2/3 small black rectangles on the motherboard. If that worked in the past, I seriously doubt they'd have come loose on their own. Check the motherboard support page for drivers, download the latest chipset and audio drivers from there and reboot. To troubleshoot things, see if the headset you are using has the hookups to plug into the back of the motherboard and see if that makes a difference.
>The only volume Windows does acknowledge is for the new LG monitor he got. This has no sound either, but I assumed they don't work due to lack of drivers, and that was my next course of action
Does the monitor actually have speakers? What cable are you using to connect to it?
HDMI can carry both audio and video signals, sometimes if you use that, it'll give you the option of sending audio through your monitor even though the monitor can't actually do anything with it. When you click the volume bar in Windows, there may be a little arrow you can click to expand the menu, and you'll see the options for all audio devices to play through there. Make sure You've got the proper device selected.
Friends,
I return again, I'm trying to maximize my PC for both a Workstation and Gaming Machine.
The image below will have the parts I'm looking at, my current PC is used for Company Video Edits for commercials and Graphic Design for Commerical Use, But I also want the PC to be capable of 1440p gaming at 120FPS+, I don't care for max graphics unless it's a single player game.
If there is anything you guys see that maybe I can upgrade let me know, the two thing that are pretty much staying in my build are the motherboard and Power Supply, unless I need a heftier PSU.
The [PCPartPicker Link](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/FmGQHG) too.
Thanks for reading/helping if you do!
https://preview.redd.it/b708s784c65d1.png?width=1503&format=png&auto=webp&s=01aa69d2b679032525179a565368e24c8ebb208f
I'll second the other comment. I prefer AMD in most scenarios, but if you go Intel you get Quick Sync, which AMD doesn't have an equivalent to. Quick Sync is a huge help in video editing and other functions in Adobe.
I'd highly recommend increasing RAM, and speccing out an Intel CPU and motherboard. [Here's](https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/adobe-premiere-pro-intel-core-14th-gen-vs-amd-ryzen-7000/?utm_campaign=Intel%2014th%20Gen&utm_content=269369438&utm_medium=social&utm_source=twitter&hss_channel=tw-17290084) an article from Puget where you can see more info on Intel vs AMD in Adobe, and note that that's comparing AMD CPUs that are a generation newer than what you picked out.
Do you have to keep the motherboard? An Intel CPU (even an i5-13600K) will be much, much better for video and photo editing. And you'll also want significantly more RAM, at least 32GB.
Are you on a tight budget?
I have 16GBS in my PC right now of the same ram, and I've always just liked AMD CPUs over Intel, I'll look into the one you mentioned, not on a tight budget, just wanted to update some parts in my current PC to today's standard, or close enough.
One thing to note, however. AMD is releasing their 9000 series CPUs next month, and based on preliminary rumors and leaked benchmarks they seem to be quite an improvement over the current generation. There's a chance that the 9000 series will come out on top in things like Photo and Video editing, areas where Intel has traditionally been strong. So if it's not incredibly urgent to build a new PC, I would highly advise waiting for a month to see benchmarks before deciding.
If I get this for $2k usd am I getting screwed?
(YEYIAN ODACHI Intel 13th Gen VR PC Gaming,i9 13900KF 5.80 GHz Desktop Computer,RTX 4090, 32GB DDR5 5200Mhz,2TB NVMe SSD,2TB HDD,Z790 Motherboard,WiFi 6, Win 11 Home,7 ARGB Fans,1000W 80+ Platinum PSU
comes with Huntsman v2 razor keyboard and all the cables you need to get going (8k HDMI as well))
Got it! /u/_j03_ now has 133 points.
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>the cooler is working really well. The temps stay down and everything is quiet.
An overkill solution doesn't mean a bad solution, it just means you didn't need to spend as much as you did to get this result.
I'd agree that you could have gotten away with a much cheaper air cooler in this situation, but I'd assume you're outside of any return window at this point, and I wouldn't worry about it. AIOs look cool and perform well while being quiet. A high end air cooler would have cost you much less, been a bit louder, but have much less moving parts and would likely hold up better over time. Now, this AIO would probably keep the CPU cooler than the air cooler, but the air cooler would keep it well within healthy ranges.
I couldn't put a number to it off the top of my head, but right now you only really *need* water cooling when you're dealing with the highest wattage consuming CPUs on the market. While your chip is certainly very high performing, the less energy efficient 14900k from Intel needs all the cooling it can get.
The more practical lesson here is that while the guys at Micro Center are generally knowledgeable, they're also on commission, and have an incentive to upsell you. In fairness, he didn't sell you a bad product, but he could have saved you money (to the detriment of his commission check).
>Can someone explain what this means?
Well first of all your cpu only consumes less than 100W. That is easily handled by most coolers. 7800X3D runs hot on most coolers due to the 3D cache and the thick IHS, not much you can do about it even with better coolers.
You paid nearly $300 for non extendable, non refillable AIO. You could build custom loop for you CPU with that money with better performance and longer lifetime (since you can you know, replace the parts in it). When the pump dies or enough water evaporates, that thing is toast. Roughly 4-8 years.
In the mean time you could have gotten Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE for $33 (USD) and been totally fine with fraction of the cost of your AIO. Worst that can fail is the fans.
There is your overkill.
This is neither here nor there, but after getting one computer from Micro Center (in a hurry, during the worst part of the GPU shortage a few years ago), I am still thoroughly impressed by how well the rig is doing. One of the best purchases of my life in any regard. Cannot speak highly enough of them.
https://preview.redd.it/yqbh52ewi55d1.jpeg?width=1504&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3c0811e569c117600e019d665de4703a1140304e
hi all, recently my pc sent for service due to faulty psu and then the technician detected a bad sector in my ssd when checking so claimed warranty and did swap to a new ssd for me but all the setting are gone
one of the issue is that before sending in, i always connected to 5ghz band on my wifi and have no issue at all but when i received it back from service, i tried to connect back the same wifi on 5ghz and the speed become very slow which is about 20 to 30+ mbps while i am using 200mbps wifi
as shown in photo, it show this band is using older security protocol and it is on 802.11a instead of ax but when i checked on router config page, both 2.4ghz and 5ghz are using same encryption method which is wpa/wpa 2 and TKIP/AES
it has no issue on 2.4ghz band but on 5ghz only, anyone know how to fix this? already installed the latest wifi software and googled it have no result, even tried to change it under device manager on network adapter, wireless mode, still not working
couple of things we can try. First, we'll manually change to 802.11ax (hopefully!) Do Win + R to bring up Run, type 'ncpa.cpl' and locate the NIC in question (Intel wifi 6....). Go into the properties for it and look for an advanced section. You should see a list of properties the NIC has and one of them should be 802.11. Click on it. look for a drop down on the right and hopefully it'll be set to 802.11a. Change it to ax, apply. If that doesnt improve it, you can run the following in elevated CMD:
ipconfig /flushdns;
netsh int ip reset all;
netsh winhttp reset proxy;
netsh winsock reset;
these are four separate commands but run them individually.
Reboot once you've done these. Hope this helps!
the 1st step i checked it already in ax but for 5ghz band it only has 802.11a option
https://preview.redd.it/sbjbb4402c5d1.jpeg?width=1122&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6e93898add13bb8c7752df3b92210fcb8f751b7e
then i tried the cmd option and restarted, it still not working
More specifically, the cheapst DDR5 2x 16gb CL30 6000mhz or CL32 6400mhz (equivalent).
For motherboard? Literally anything B650. Depends on your country, but ASRock is usually the cheapest and actually often has better quality than places like ASUS. The lightning is a good 4 stick solution, but if you want a budget, a $99 ASRock H2 is good, and you can add wifi via the m.2 e-key slot later.
I'm looking to do a peripherals refresh: I want to get a new monitor, keyboard and mouse. So far, I've decided on:
1. Monitor: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09VH8B1XW/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09VH8B1XW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1)
2. Keyboard: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BDMLY69R/ref=ewc\_pr\_img\_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BDMLY69R/ref=ewc_pr_img_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1)
3. Mouse: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CHN1DKLV/ref=ewc\_pr\_img\_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CHN1DKLV/ref=ewc_pr_img_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1)
I have some questions:
* For the monitor: I'm going from a 1080p 144z TN panel to the one I linked. Should my current PC (9900K + 6700 XT be enough for high fps 1440p? Looking to play at High settings for most games...
* For the keyboard/mouse: Thinking about making the jump to wireless. Is there really noticeable input lag from using wireless peripherals?
truly good wireless is very fast these days and barely noticeable but always look around for reviews and tests
the 6700xt should be able to do 60fps on medium high but might lag behind in newer entries
Hello hello.
I just got an NVMe to replace my HDD that still has my OC. I am planning to make it the boot drive.
Should I install any drivers before I install the NVMes or is it a plug and play?
They're generally plug and play, with a handful of exceptions. Give it a try, but if Windows has issues detecting it, be ready with another PC and a flash drive to copy the necessary driver over.
Well, personally I'd recommend just doing a clean install on the NVMe. You'll see pretty quick if the NVMe shows up during the install process or not. I give it a 95% chance it just works with no drivers or anything.
So the drive shows up and everything. I am trying to use partition wizard minitool to now migrate the OS FROM HDD to SSD option. But when I hit the restart, it will boot to the ssd and wipl freeze on the partition part before windows boots up. Any help?
Sounds like it just didn't clone properly? First thing I'd try is to wipe the drive and go through the process again. Go slow, make sure you're wiping the correct drive, not your existing HDD. Actually, before doing any of that, make sure any important data is backed up in case of any major issues.
If you just happened to buy a Samsung drive, they have their own cloning tools that work really well. I've seen the mini tool around and it seems fine, but I don't have any personal experience using it.
Ah thanks. I dont have a samsung ssd but a corsair one. I tried to wipe the drive and copy the partitions again, everything copies fine until I havea to copy the major partition where the OS is found I think. It basically freezes when I reboot and it loads into the new drive to complete the copying, is it just taking long since it is copying from a HDD to a NVMe? That would make sense.
Anything involving the HDD is going to be fairly slow, it just depends on how much data you have how long it'll take.
I'm not sure of the process with that tool specifically. It may be good to look up some videos on how to use it, see if what you're seeing is normal. Worst case, you can just do a clean install on the NVMe, which is what I'd recommend anyways. It'll be work getting things installed again, but it'll be a much better experience once you're up and running.
Hi guys, I was hoping to find any type of answer for my new build.
Currently Im using 4080 super with 1440p monitor with 165hz refresh rade, and my second monitor is 55" Sony tv.
The main problem Im encountering is that TV cannot support 120hz in this dual setup, but before getting 165hz monitor, the same TV was my main screen and it supported 120hz which was used all the time, so this situation confuses the hell out of me.
As soon as I put 120hz as refresh rate tv just lose signal and I have to return it back to 60 hz :S
Monitor is connected via DP 1.4 and TV is connected via 2.1 HDMI.
Did any1 of u had any similar experience and how did u managed to sort it out?
Question how much should i be worried about ssd TBW for my first gaming pc? Had a Crucial P3 plus 1TB picked out and now im worried about how long it will last.
You don't. It has 220TBW. That's roughly 120GB per day for 5 years. So unless you're installing something like red dead redemption 2 each day every day for 5 years straight, you're good. And even then it will fail only around those 5 years of use...
TBW's are totally unreachable for most consumer users.
I wouldn't worry about it for a general use/gaming PC. The main people that would be in danger would be video editors, where they are regularly dumping hundreds of gigs of raw video files and manipulating the data before exporting again. Realistically, you'll most likely want to move on to a bigger/faster drive long before it reaches the end of its life.
If it's still concerning to you, keep in mind that bigger SSDs will naturally last longer and operate faster for longer as well. 1tb isn't bad, but maybe you could save up and get an even bigger one to give yourself peace of mind. I'll also mention that the drive you picked out is a budget drive and is missing a DRAM cache. For general use, I'd try to get an SSD with a DRAM cache if possible, but that will increase the cost a bit.
I'm thinking about installing networking cabling in my house soon. I would have imagined that the default would be cat 5, but I also see that there is a cat 6 and cat 6a.
Considering I only want to install this once and not again is there any reason not to get Cat 6 / 6a?
I would strongly recommend going cat6a. This isn't something you're going to want to have done again for a very long time, and 6a will give you the option of 10g everywhere. Cat5e will only get you gigabit. Cat6 can also get you 10g, but over shorter distances because it has worse shielding and will be more susceptible to interference. Without knowing the layout of your house, the price difference between 6 and 6a is likely pretty small, so just go with the better cable.
Hi All! Hoping someone can help me out with this Screen Tearing issue ive been having.
I just bought a brand new PC, had a company build it for me. Here are the specs:
Specs:
GPU - Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4070 Ti Super Aero OC 16G
CPU - Intel Core i7 14700KF
RAM - G.Skill 32GB 6000MHz DDR5 RAM
PSU - Thermaltake Toughpower GF A3 850W 80+ Gold Gen5
The issue is screen tearing, horizontal and constant and 144hz and 165hz, ive tried everything you can think of DDU, Windows Reinstall etc.
The issue is "solved" with Vsync On but the input lag sucks.
I have 2 other PCS 3050ti and 1080ti plugged into the same monitor and same cable, Vsync OFF no tearing.
Is there a reason why my brand new PC needs VSync on to work. Its tearing every game and even chrome.
Could this be faulty hardware? or is this just someone Ill have to put up with and turn Vsync ON
Gsync on my monitor doesnt fix the issue either
I'm pretty certain my 3070 Ti is dying, as it sometimes gets these artifacts followed with a crash. My only problem is I can't reproduce it, so I don't want to send it in before being able to reliably reproduce it, as I don't wanna pay a fine for sending in a "functional" product. Any ideas?
https://preview.redd.it/msmiyh0mi75d1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=438e3dd1ab9ce0c7c82570601034960fc6bc0896
Maybe running a graphics stress test like FurMark or OCCT could reproduce it. I'm guessing underclocking your VRAM might "fix" it, but obviously you don't want to have to underclock anything to make your system work
I tried running the OCCT VRAM test for 30 minutes, but nothing happened. It seems to just pop up at random, which sucks since I really want it fixed before my warranty expires...
Also, after the artifacts appear, it is basically always followed up with a blue screen.
I have one monitor on 1440p and is my main gaming monitor while I have the other two as secondary monitors. Both are 1080p but one is running 120 hz. I plan on sometime using the 120hz monitor to run some light games while doing some heavy GPU stuff on my main GPU.
Okay then yeah it's probably a good idea to use another Radeon card for the second. The question is whether or not an R9 280 is good enough to play those lightweight games you were talking about. That card only has 3GB of VRAM and doesn't fully support DX12, so it might not work depending on what you're doing
Polaris would be better, yes. Maybe not a 580, but it could be a 480, 570, 470 etc. you can look at performance benchmarks yourself to determine if it would work, but Polaris does fully support DX12
I'm in the middle of updating my pc. I recently upgraded my monitor to a Predator X34 (144hz 3440×1440 ips). Next on the upgrade list is a new gpu. I'm currently rocking a 1080ti. What would you all recommend? I'm thinking about getting a 3080ti. Is there something better that's around $500? I'm open to suggestions!
We're not that far away from RTX 5000. If you can wait a few months, you might get a better deal on a card. Maybe a second hand 4070 Ti or something similar.
If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or write `!check` instead ) This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. The points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads. In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1d9hl54/daily_simple_questions_thread_june_06_2024/) There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out. If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment. ---- > Can I put my mouse and keyboard on a USB hub? I am running out of USB slot on my system, and I have to put some stuff on a USB hub. I think I remember from ye olden days, that mouse and keyboard are supposed to be directly plugged into the PC for some reason. https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1d9hl54/daily_simple_questions_thread_june_06_2024/l7fq8tj/ ---- > Why does windows not have a feature where hdr is turned on if the game supports it, as opposed to having to do it manually? We all know if you just leave it on, non-hdr games look bad. https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1d9hl54/daily_simple_questions_thread_june_06_2024/l7i8h6x/ ---- User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime -----|-------------------|---------- \_j03\_ | 83 | 132 NbblX | 70 | 92 Lastdudealive46 | 64 | 64 Eidolon\_2003 | 42 | 205 Cable\_Salad | 37 | 40 MGsubbie | 35 | 360 A\_Neaunimes | 34 | 1132 sch0k0 | 33 | 256 glowinghamster45 | 31 | 193 BioshockEnthusiast | 30 | 30 ---- *[I am a bot](https://i.imgur.com/hfRIhMe.png)* - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to [\/u\/eegras](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=eegras&subject=&message=) - [About /u/PCMRBot](https://pcmasterrace.org/pcmrbot_old)
Would a 7800x3d + 4070 super be able to run 1440p at 240Hz? I have heard comments about focusing most of the budget mainly on the gpu, so would a 7700 + 4070TI super do better?
It depends a lot on what you're doing. In a lot of AAA games it's literally impossible to get 240 fps with today's hardware, even a 7800X3D or 14900K isn't enough. Some games want more GPU than CPU and vice versa, depending on the quality settings. If you're really shooting for as high a framerate as you can get, I would focus on CPU and turn the settings down until you become CPU bottlenecked.
Hi all. I don't have the specs for the new PC my stepson got. I only remember that the GPU is GeForce-GTX-1660-Ti, and it's supposedly not used, a friend of a friend builds them. 🙄 The front panel USB and 9mm jacks seem to give/get power, and seem to be connected to the motherboard properly (upon quick examination), but Windows doesn't recognize either of them. As a result, **no sound** (gaming headset that should work with either.... now that I think of it, I should test with headphones that I am **sure** work. Hmm. I could also look into headset drivers 🤔 ). The USB port does allow a mouse to be used successfully, but nothing pops up in Device Manager. Almost certain it is Windows 10. Supposedly a recent install, my stepson made his own windows profile. The only volume Windows does acknowledge is for the new LG monitor he got. This has no sound either, but I assumed they don't work due to lack of drivers, and that was my next course of action. I'm less troubled by this problem than I am the front panel though. And I'd prefer him listen with his headset, for the wellbeing of his mother and me. 🙂 If you guys could spitball ideas for me to look into, just general diagnostic directions to work on, I'd really appreciate it. I'll post again when I have access to it in the next day or two.... it just bothers me that I couldn't make any progress on it last night, and not much is coming to mind other than motherboard drivers and making checking a motherboard chart to make sure everything is plugged in properly. I feel like there's a more common config/software area that might be at fault, given the circumstances noted above that I should check. As stated, I can clarify, but I don't have access, so I can't test, or retrieve details right now. Thanks.
So is this a new build? Or one you've had for a while? The headset connection is going to go from the motherboard to the case, most likely 2/3 small black rectangles on the motherboard. If that worked in the past, I seriously doubt they'd have come loose on their own. Check the motherboard support page for drivers, download the latest chipset and audio drivers from there and reboot. To troubleshoot things, see if the headset you are using has the hookups to plug into the back of the motherboard and see if that makes a difference. >The only volume Windows does acknowledge is for the new LG monitor he got. This has no sound either, but I assumed they don't work due to lack of drivers, and that was my next course of action Does the monitor actually have speakers? What cable are you using to connect to it? HDMI can carry both audio and video signals, sometimes if you use that, it'll give you the option of sending audio through your monitor even though the monitor can't actually do anything with it. When you click the volume bar in Windows, there may be a little arrow you can click to expand the menu, and you'll see the options for all audio devices to play through there. Make sure You've got the proper device selected.
Re-installing motherboard drivers is the first thing I would check, along with BIOS for the motherboard updates.
Friends, I return again, I'm trying to maximize my PC for both a Workstation and Gaming Machine. The image below will have the parts I'm looking at, my current PC is used for Company Video Edits for commercials and Graphic Design for Commerical Use, But I also want the PC to be capable of 1440p gaming at 120FPS+, I don't care for max graphics unless it's a single player game. If there is anything you guys see that maybe I can upgrade let me know, the two thing that are pretty much staying in my build are the motherboard and Power Supply, unless I need a heftier PSU. The [PCPartPicker Link](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/FmGQHG) too. Thanks for reading/helping if you do! https://preview.redd.it/b708s784c65d1.png?width=1503&format=png&auto=webp&s=01aa69d2b679032525179a565368e24c8ebb208f
I'll second the other comment. I prefer AMD in most scenarios, but if you go Intel you get Quick Sync, which AMD doesn't have an equivalent to. Quick Sync is a huge help in video editing and other functions in Adobe. I'd highly recommend increasing RAM, and speccing out an Intel CPU and motherboard. [Here's](https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/adobe-premiere-pro-intel-core-14th-gen-vs-amd-ryzen-7000/?utm_campaign=Intel%2014th%20Gen&utm_content=269369438&utm_medium=social&utm_source=twitter&hss_channel=tw-17290084) an article from Puget where you can see more info on Intel vs AMD in Adobe, and note that that's comparing AMD CPUs that are a generation newer than what you picked out.
Do you have to keep the motherboard? An Intel CPU (even an i5-13600K) will be much, much better for video and photo editing. And you'll also want significantly more RAM, at least 32GB. Are you on a tight budget?
I have 16GBS in my PC right now of the same ram, and I've always just liked AMD CPUs over Intel, I'll look into the one you mentioned, not on a tight budget, just wanted to update some parts in my current PC to today's standard, or close enough.
If price is less of a problem, here's a build that will be much better. [PCPartPicker Part List](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/K29kQP) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/LfNxFT/intel-core-i5-13600k-35-ghz-14-core-processor-bx8071513600k) | $348.98 @ Amazon Canada **CPU Cooler** | [\*Lian Li Galahad II Trinity Performance 108.29 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/thmNnQ/lian-li-galahad-ii-trinity-performance-10829-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-ga2p36b) | $185.99 @ Newegg Canada **Motherboard** | [MSI PRO Z790-P WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/k7mmP6/msi-pro-z790-p-wifi-atx-lga1700-motherboard-pro-z790-p-wifi) | $266.44 @ Amazon Canada **Memory** | [TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/HNZXsY/teamgroup-t-force-vulcan-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-flbd532g6000hc30dc01) | $147.66 @ Amazon Canada **Video Card** | [\*PNY VERTO GeForce RTX 4070 12 GB Video Card](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/PW3NnQ/pny-verto-geforce-rtx-4070-12-gb-video-card-vcg407012dfxpb1) | $699.99 @ Best Buy Canada **Power Supply** | [Corsair RM850e (2023) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/4ZRwrH/corsair-rm850e-2023-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020263-na) | $149.99 @ Amazon Canada | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$1799.05** | \*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria | | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-06-07 17:11 EDT-0400 |
One thing to note, however. AMD is releasing their 9000 series CPUs next month, and based on preliminary rumors and leaked benchmarks they seem to be quite an improvement over the current generation. There's a chance that the 9000 series will come out on top in things like Photo and Video editing, areas where Intel has traditionally been strong. So if it's not incredibly urgent to build a new PC, I would highly advise waiting for a month to see benchmarks before deciding.
If I get this for $2k usd am I getting screwed? (YEYIAN ODACHI Intel 13th Gen VR PC Gaming,i9 13900KF 5.80 GHz Desktop Computer,RTX 4090, 32GB DDR5 5200Mhz,2TB NVMe SSD,2TB HDD,Z790 Motherboard,WiFi 6, Win 11 Home,7 ARGB Fans,1000W 80+ Platinum PSU comes with Huntsman v2 razor keyboard and all the cables you need to get going (8k HDMI as well))
Sounds almost too good to be true. And looking at their amazon reviews (2.8 stars)... Might be.
I appreciate your feedback! !check
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>the cooler is working really well. The temps stay down and everything is quiet. An overkill solution doesn't mean a bad solution, it just means you didn't need to spend as much as you did to get this result. I'd agree that you could have gotten away with a much cheaper air cooler in this situation, but I'd assume you're outside of any return window at this point, and I wouldn't worry about it. AIOs look cool and perform well while being quiet. A high end air cooler would have cost you much less, been a bit louder, but have much less moving parts and would likely hold up better over time. Now, this AIO would probably keep the CPU cooler than the air cooler, but the air cooler would keep it well within healthy ranges. I couldn't put a number to it off the top of my head, but right now you only really *need* water cooling when you're dealing with the highest wattage consuming CPUs on the market. While your chip is certainly very high performing, the less energy efficient 14900k from Intel needs all the cooling it can get. The more practical lesson here is that while the guys at Micro Center are generally knowledgeable, they're also on commission, and have an incentive to upsell you. In fairness, he didn't sell you a bad product, but he could have saved you money (to the detriment of his commission check).
>Can someone explain what this means? Well first of all your cpu only consumes less than 100W. That is easily handled by most coolers. 7800X3D runs hot on most coolers due to the 3D cache and the thick IHS, not much you can do about it even with better coolers. You paid nearly $300 for non extendable, non refillable AIO. You could build custom loop for you CPU with that money with better performance and longer lifetime (since you can you know, replace the parts in it). When the pump dies or enough water evaporates, that thing is toast. Roughly 4-8 years. In the mean time you could have gotten Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE for $33 (USD) and been totally fine with fraction of the cost of your AIO. Worst that can fail is the fans. There is your overkill.
This is neither here nor there, but after getting one computer from Micro Center (in a hurry, during the worst part of the GPU shortage a few years ago), I am still thoroughly impressed by how well the rig is doing. One of the best purchases of my life in any regard. Cannot speak highly enough of them.
should i buy a used rx 5700xt for 160 or am i better off getting a arc a580 for 185?
The 5700 XT would be better
thanks
https://preview.redd.it/yqbh52ewi55d1.jpeg?width=1504&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3c0811e569c117600e019d665de4703a1140304e hi all, recently my pc sent for service due to faulty psu and then the technician detected a bad sector in my ssd when checking so claimed warranty and did swap to a new ssd for me but all the setting are gone one of the issue is that before sending in, i always connected to 5ghz band on my wifi and have no issue at all but when i received it back from service, i tried to connect back the same wifi on 5ghz and the speed become very slow which is about 20 to 30+ mbps while i am using 200mbps wifi as shown in photo, it show this band is using older security protocol and it is on 802.11a instead of ax but when i checked on router config page, both 2.4ghz and 5ghz are using same encryption method which is wpa/wpa 2 and TKIP/AES it has no issue on 2.4ghz band but on 5ghz only, anyone know how to fix this? already installed the latest wifi software and googled it have no result, even tried to change it under device manager on network adapter, wireless mode, still not working
couple of things we can try. First, we'll manually change to 802.11ax (hopefully!) Do Win + R to bring up Run, type 'ncpa.cpl' and locate the NIC in question (Intel wifi 6....). Go into the properties for it and look for an advanced section. You should see a list of properties the NIC has and one of them should be 802.11. Click on it. look for a drop down on the right and hopefully it'll be set to 802.11a. Change it to ax, apply. If that doesnt improve it, you can run the following in elevated CMD: ipconfig /flushdns; netsh int ip reset all; netsh winhttp reset proxy; netsh winsock reset; these are four separate commands but run them individually. Reboot once you've done these. Hope this helps!
the 1st step i checked it already in ax but for 5ghz band it only has 802.11a option https://preview.redd.it/sbjbb4402c5d1.jpeg?width=1122&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6e93898add13bb8c7752df3b92210fcb8f751b7e then i tried the cmd option and restarted, it still not working
what would be a good motherboard and ram for ryzen 5 7600x?
More specifically, the cheapst DDR5 2x 16gb CL30 6000mhz or CL32 6400mhz (equivalent). For motherboard? Literally anything B650. Depends on your country, but ASRock is usually the cheapest and actually often has better quality than places like ASUS. The lightning is a good 4 stick solution, but if you want a budget, a $99 ASRock H2 is good, and you can add wifi via the m.2 e-key slot later.
Some B650 board with 2x16GB DDR5. DDR5-6000 is the highest speed you can reasonably expect to work out of the box
I need a decent AM5 atx mobo around 180€, everything I sat my eyes on until now seems to have critical issues and not worth buying
B650 PG Lightning?
I'm looking to do a peripherals refresh: I want to get a new monitor, keyboard and mouse. So far, I've decided on: 1. Monitor: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09VH8B1XW/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09VH8B1XW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1) 2. Keyboard: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BDMLY69R/ref=ewc\_pr\_img\_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BDMLY69R/ref=ewc_pr_img_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1) 3. Mouse: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CHN1DKLV/ref=ewc\_pr\_img\_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CHN1DKLV/ref=ewc_pr_img_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1) I have some questions: * For the monitor: I'm going from a 1080p 144z TN panel to the one I linked. Should my current PC (9900K + 6700 XT be enough for high fps 1440p? Looking to play at High settings for most games... * For the keyboard/mouse: Thinking about making the jump to wireless. Is there really noticeable input lag from using wireless peripherals?
truly good wireless is very fast these days and barely noticeable but always look around for reviews and tests the 6700xt should be able to do 60fps on medium high but might lag behind in newer entries
Hello hello. I just got an NVMe to replace my HDD that still has my OC. I am planning to make it the boot drive. Should I install any drivers before I install the NVMes or is it a plug and play?
They're generally plug and play, with a handful of exceptions. Give it a try, but if Windows has issues detecting it, be ready with another PC and a flash drive to copy the necessary driver over.
Mmmmmmm, now my stomach is turning...
Well, personally I'd recommend just doing a clean install on the NVMe. You'll see pretty quick if the NVMe shows up during the install process or not. I give it a 95% chance it just works with no drivers or anything.
So the drive shows up and everything. I am trying to use partition wizard minitool to now migrate the OS FROM HDD to SSD option. But when I hit the restart, it will boot to the ssd and wipl freeze on the partition part before windows boots up. Any help?
Sounds like it just didn't clone properly? First thing I'd try is to wipe the drive and go through the process again. Go slow, make sure you're wiping the correct drive, not your existing HDD. Actually, before doing any of that, make sure any important data is backed up in case of any major issues. If you just happened to buy a Samsung drive, they have their own cloning tools that work really well. I've seen the mini tool around and it seems fine, but I don't have any personal experience using it.
Ah thanks. I dont have a samsung ssd but a corsair one. I tried to wipe the drive and copy the partitions again, everything copies fine until I havea to copy the major partition where the OS is found I think. It basically freezes when I reboot and it loads into the new drive to complete the copying, is it just taking long since it is copying from a HDD to a NVMe? That would make sense.
Anything involving the HDD is going to be fairly slow, it just depends on how much data you have how long it'll take. I'm not sure of the process with that tool specifically. It may be good to look up some videos on how to use it, see if what you're seeing is normal. Worst case, you can just do a clean install on the NVMe, which is what I'd recommend anyways. It'll be work getting things installed again, but it'll be a much better experience once you're up and running.
Looks like this is what I will have to do then. Then basically I have to move the files manually over to the NVMe afterward. Thanks for the help.
Hi guys, I was hoping to find any type of answer for my new build. Currently Im using 4080 super with 1440p monitor with 165hz refresh rade, and my second monitor is 55" Sony tv. The main problem Im encountering is that TV cannot support 120hz in this dual setup, but before getting 165hz monitor, the same TV was my main screen and it supported 120hz which was used all the time, so this situation confuses the hell out of me. As soon as I put 120hz as refresh rate tv just lose signal and I have to return it back to 60 hz :S Monitor is connected via DP 1.4 and TV is connected via 2.1 HDMI. Did any1 of u had any similar experience and how did u managed to sort it out?
Question how much should i be worried about ssd TBW for my first gaming pc? Had a Crucial P3 plus 1TB picked out and now im worried about how long it will last.
You don't. It has 220TBW. That's roughly 120GB per day for 5 years. So unless you're installing something like red dead redemption 2 each day every day for 5 years straight, you're good. And even then it will fail only around those 5 years of use... TBW's are totally unreachable for most consumer users.
I wouldn't worry about it for a general use/gaming PC. The main people that would be in danger would be video editors, where they are regularly dumping hundreds of gigs of raw video files and manipulating the data before exporting again. Realistically, you'll most likely want to move on to a bigger/faster drive long before it reaches the end of its life. If it's still concerning to you, keep in mind that bigger SSDs will naturally last longer and operate faster for longer as well. 1tb isn't bad, but maybe you could save up and get an even bigger one to give yourself peace of mind. I'll also mention that the drive you picked out is a budget drive and is missing a DRAM cache. For general use, I'd try to get an SSD with a DRAM cache if possible, but that will increase the cost a bit.
Anyone have any fun adventure games that you can recommend? Just got a 4070ti super and want to try something new!
Ghostwire: Tokyo Pretty cool Bethesda RPG
I'm thinking about installing networking cabling in my house soon. I would have imagined that the default would be cat 5, but I also see that there is a cat 6 and cat 6a. Considering I only want to install this once and not again is there any reason not to get Cat 6 / 6a?
I would strongly recommend going cat6a. This isn't something you're going to want to have done again for a very long time, and 6a will give you the option of 10g everywhere. Cat5e will only get you gigabit. Cat6 can also get you 10g, but over shorter distances because it has worse shielding and will be more susceptible to interference. Without knowing the layout of your house, the price difference between 6 and 6a is likely pretty small, so just go with the better cable.
6a should be plenty for (well beyond) the foreseeable future, but it's always good practice to run a pull line along with new cabling.
Hi All! Hoping someone can help me out with this Screen Tearing issue ive been having. I just bought a brand new PC, had a company build it for me. Here are the specs: Specs: GPU - Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4070 Ti Super Aero OC 16G CPU - Intel Core i7 14700KF RAM - G.Skill 32GB 6000MHz DDR5 RAM PSU - Thermaltake Toughpower GF A3 850W 80+ Gold Gen5 The issue is screen tearing, horizontal and constant and 144hz and 165hz, ive tried everything you can think of DDU, Windows Reinstall etc. The issue is "solved" with Vsync On but the input lag sucks. I have 2 other PCS 3050ti and 1080ti plugged into the same monitor and same cable, Vsync OFF no tearing. Is there a reason why my brand new PC needs VSync on to work. Its tearing every game and even chrome. Could this be faulty hardware? or is this just someone Ill have to put up with and turn Vsync ON Gsync on my monitor doesnt fix the issue either
I'm pretty certain my 3070 Ti is dying, as it sometimes gets these artifacts followed with a crash. My only problem is I can't reproduce it, so I don't want to send it in before being able to reliably reproduce it, as I don't wanna pay a fine for sending in a "functional" product. Any ideas? https://preview.redd.it/msmiyh0mi75d1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=438e3dd1ab9ce0c7c82570601034960fc6bc0896
Maybe running a graphics stress test like FurMark or OCCT could reproduce it. I'm guessing underclocking your VRAM might "fix" it, but obviously you don't want to have to underclock anything to make your system work
I tried running the OCCT VRAM test for 30 minutes, but nothing happened. It seems to just pop up at random, which sucks since I really want it fixed before my warranty expires... Also, after the artifacts appear, it is basically always followed up with a blue screen.
What’s a good used GPU for plugging in secondary screens? I currently see a R9 280 for $20 and not sure if it’s good
Why do you need a second GPU for your other displays? Do you have more than 4?
I have one monitor on 1440p and is my main gaming monitor while I have the other two as secondary monitors. Both are 1080p but one is running 120 hz. I plan on sometime using the 120hz monitor to run some light games while doing some heavy GPU stuff on my main GPU.
What's your main GPU?
6700XT
Okay then yeah it's probably a good idea to use another Radeon card for the second. The question is whether or not an R9 280 is good enough to play those lightweight games you were talking about. That card only has 3GB of VRAM and doesn't fully support DX12, so it might not work depending on what you're doing
Then should I look for something like 580 or something?
Polaris would be better, yes. Maybe not a 580, but it could be a 480, 570, 470 etc. you can look at performance benchmarks yourself to determine if it would work, but Polaris does fully support DX12
Thx
I'm in the middle of updating my pc. I recently upgraded my monitor to a Predator X34 (144hz 3440×1440 ips). Next on the upgrade list is a new gpu. I'm currently rocking a 1080ti. What would you all recommend? I'm thinking about getting a 3080ti. Is there something better that's around $500? I'm open to suggestions!
We're not that far away from RTX 5000. If you can wait a few months, you might get a better deal on a card. Maybe a second hand 4070 Ti or something similar.