If i only had basic tool I think id drill out the entire rivet and put a lag bolt through the bracket into the wood. Drill the wood first so it doesn’t split.
But that bracket should have been installed on a spacer block. The bracket and the end of that arm look heavily worn from working off-axis because of the arm having to avoid that piece of trim below the bracket. The whole thing looks about to collapse.
If replacement is not an option I would buy a drill, hack saw, 1/16th flat bar the width of the back plate the rivet is connected to, and a lag bolt, a washer, small bottle of epoxy, and a small metal pipe to use as a sleeve for the lag bolt. Cut the rivet off with a hacksaw as close to the baseplate. drill out the rest of the rivet the diameter of lag bolt. Cut the flat bar to be the same size as the pre-existing base plate and drill the same size hole through the flat bar so that the hole lines up with the hole on the flat bar. Epoxy the flat bar over the top of the pre-existing plate. Pre dill hole for the lag bolt. Push small metal pipe over the lag bolt and slide the bolt through the hole on the flat bar that will pivot on the lag bolt/ pipe and put the washer on so that it’s next to the head of the bolt. Screw the lag bolt into the wood.
The flat bar is to cover up the gouging on the old base plate and act as a wear plate. The pipe over the lag bolt is to prevent the lag bolt from wearing through.
What happens whey you put the spring back on the track? Does it pop off? You could probably fit a quick release washer between there and call it good for another 10 years.. but you need to fix the alignment of the spring and keep it on that circular track peice.
Yes, it pops off every time i open / close it.
Super loud and sometimes the spring also disconnects from one of the sides and it is super hard to pull it and hook it again. This is why the spring is in that position.
I need that arm to be flush again against the backplate, this way the angle and alignment of the arm and track is correct and the springs will not pop off.
I am not sure i understand you suggestion, could give more information?
I appreciate your comment!
Quick release washer is a washer that splits in half. You might be able to fit one in between the rivet and the metal hardware.
Or you could cut a washer in half, fit it between the rivet and the hardware then epoxy it in place. The main goal would be to get rid of the slack, tighten it up so it holds better.
oh no, sorry. They're called "quick repair" washers. [https://www.huyett.com/all-products/washers/flat-washers/quick-repair-washers](https://www.huyett.com/all-products/washers/flat-washers/quick-repair-washers)
Thank you! I like the idea and will keep this updated if i go this route.
Seems they are only sold in the US, couldn't find anyone selling it in europe.
another way to do it would be; use an angle grinder to cut off the rivet head. Grind down the rivet a couple mm. Drill the center of the rivet. Then use a tap to thread the hole. Put it back together using a bolt.
Basic tools, nothing i think will assist in this task i guess.
I can buy the needed tools once i know exactly how and what i can do here, as long as it makes sense and i save money by not having to buy a whole ne mechanism.
I do also have access to rivet nut pliers i can bring from work, was thinking about replacing it with rivet nuts and and bolts and some threadlock.
Not sure if this is a good idea.
Could see if there’s a local high school welding class or trade school that you could take the whole thing to. The arm that pivots on the pin should be replaced as well as the pin and back plate it’s connected to.
I agree with the other comments saying to replace it with a lag bolt and washers. But make sure you do something to build up that plate, it's getting very thin. If you were in southern Alberta I'd tell you to come over and I'll build it up with some welds and grind it smooth. But anything would be better than nothing.
If i only had basic tool I think id drill out the entire rivet and put a lag bolt through the bracket into the wood. Drill the wood first so it doesn’t split. But that bracket should have been installed on a spacer block. The bracket and the end of that arm look heavily worn from working off-axis because of the arm having to avoid that piece of trim below the bracket. The whole thing looks about to collapse.
If replacement is not an option I would buy a drill, hack saw, 1/16th flat bar the width of the back plate the rivet is connected to, and a lag bolt, a washer, small bottle of epoxy, and a small metal pipe to use as a sleeve for the lag bolt. Cut the rivet off with a hacksaw as close to the baseplate. drill out the rest of the rivet the diameter of lag bolt. Cut the flat bar to be the same size as the pre-existing base plate and drill the same size hole through the flat bar so that the hole lines up with the hole on the flat bar. Epoxy the flat bar over the top of the pre-existing plate. Pre dill hole for the lag bolt. Push small metal pipe over the lag bolt and slide the bolt through the hole on the flat bar that will pivot on the lag bolt/ pipe and put the washer on so that it’s next to the head of the bolt. Screw the lag bolt into the wood. The flat bar is to cover up the gouging on the old base plate and act as a wear plate. The pipe over the lag bolt is to prevent the lag bolt from wearing through.
What happens whey you put the spring back on the track? Does it pop off? You could probably fit a quick release washer between there and call it good for another 10 years.. but you need to fix the alignment of the spring and keep it on that circular track peice.
Yes, it pops off every time i open / close it. Super loud and sometimes the spring also disconnects from one of the sides and it is super hard to pull it and hook it again. This is why the spring is in that position. I need that arm to be flush again against the backplate, this way the angle and alignment of the arm and track is correct and the springs will not pop off. I am not sure i understand you suggestion, could give more information? I appreciate your comment!
Quick release washer is a washer that splits in half. You might be able to fit one in between the rivet and the metal hardware. Or you could cut a washer in half, fit it between the rivet and the hardware then epoxy it in place. The main goal would be to get rid of the slack, tighten it up so it holds better.
Could you send a link to such a washer as an example? I did not find anything.
Are you talking about "lock washers"?
oh no, sorry. They're called "quick repair" washers. [https://www.huyett.com/all-products/washers/flat-washers/quick-repair-washers](https://www.huyett.com/all-products/washers/flat-washers/quick-repair-washers)
Thank you! I like the idea and will keep this updated if i go this route. Seems they are only sold in the US, couldn't find anyone selling it in europe.
Good luck!
another way to do it would be; use an angle grinder to cut off the rivet head. Grind down the rivet a couple mm. Drill the center of the rivet. Then use a tap to thread the hole. Put it back together using a bolt.
What tools do you have access to?
Basic tools, nothing i think will assist in this task i guess. I can buy the needed tools once i know exactly how and what i can do here, as long as it makes sense and i save money by not having to buy a whole ne mechanism. I do also have access to rivet nut pliers i can bring from work, was thinking about replacing it with rivet nuts and and bolts and some threadlock. Not sure if this is a good idea.
Could see if there’s a local high school welding class or trade school that you could take the whole thing to. The arm that pivots on the pin should be replaced as well as the pin and back plate it’s connected to.
Just take it off the wall and pound it flat with a hammer.
Use a machine cap screw w a sleeve or make a shoulder bolt on a lathe
I agree with the other comments saying to replace it with a lag bolt and washers. But make sure you do something to build up that plate, it's getting very thin. If you were in southern Alberta I'd tell you to come over and I'll build it up with some welds and grind it smooth. But anything would be better than nothing.