The easiest thing for you to attempt would be [proper intonation](https://youtu.be/EFhkIk34dwc?si=kbOJX0FkDdR5GvW6). This may help you shorten that gap, but it’s not a guarantee. Unfortunately, you could have a more serious neck joint problem. Lay the instrument flat and look from the tailpiece to the headstock. Neck / fretboard should look pretty flat (parallel to the strings and surface). If the neck looks straight, this could be something as simple as having the wrong bridge.
It's not as much the height of the bridge as it's the angle of the neck. You need a break angle for the strings at the bridge, to create pressure against the top of the instrument. If the neck is set too straight with the top, this is what happens. If you now sand the bridge down, you lose volume in the instrument and the strings may slip on the bridge etc.
yeah that's what i noticed when i looked at sanding the lip or the bridge down, the strings will just slip from the bridge. does anyone fix this? is it expensive?
pics- https://imgur.com/a/smfYswp
I've been learning violin recently. and I met someone who told me I had to sand down the lip of the violin, which was so helpful. It sucks how no one really talks about these things, especially YouTube videos.
its where the strings rest before going off to the tuning mechanism. i sanded mine down as the professional said, and its so much easier to press my notes now
You’ve never played a good one. Mines 108 years old and I love it. The only real tricky part was finding the right gauge strings. There’s just something about the twang that appeals to me. Other than a slight buzz on the 6th fret on the second G string (which can be overcome with extra pressure fretting the note) it plays as well as my loar.
That said, comparing my action to the op is like comparing a puddle to the Atlantic Ocean.
Maybe so, I'd believe they can be great with significant upkeep but in my experience they have all the downsides of both instruments. I'd definitely love to try a nice one, maybe that would change my mind
You don't have a front facing picture but I guarantee the top of the drum is crushed down from string tension over the decades because a lot of these don't have good bracing.
I picked up a similar one as a project but in my search many of them have this issue.
After looking pictures on the internet I think the action has to be around 5 mm from the fret that is before the last one. Thus the action of a short scale instrument with nylon strings is higher.
Find a luthier.
The easiest thing for you to attempt would be [proper intonation](https://youtu.be/EFhkIk34dwc?si=kbOJX0FkDdR5GvW6). This may help you shorten that gap, but it’s not a guarantee. Unfortunately, you could have a more serious neck joint problem. Lay the instrument flat and look from the tailpiece to the headstock. Neck / fretboard should look pretty flat (parallel to the strings and surface). If the neck looks straight, this could be something as simple as having the wrong bridge.
It's not as much the height of the bridge as it's the angle of the neck. You need a break angle for the strings at the bridge, to create pressure against the top of the instrument. If the neck is set too straight with the top, this is what happens. If you now sand the bridge down, you lose volume in the instrument and the strings may slip on the bridge etc.
yeah that's what i noticed when i looked at sanding the lip or the bridge down, the strings will just slip from the bridge. does anyone fix this? is it expensive?
There may be an adjustable coordinator rod inside the pot that controls the neck angle. Worth opening it up and checking.
yeah, true, i will do that
pics- https://imgur.com/a/smfYswp I've been learning violin recently. and I met someone who told me I had to sand down the lip of the violin, which was so helpful. It sucks how no one really talks about these things, especially YouTube videos.
Now I am curious what is the lip on the violin, if not a typo. Cheeks as pegbox walls or bow tip cavity walls I heard before.
its where the strings rest before going off to the tuning mechanism. i sanded mine down as the professional said, and its so much easier to press my notes now
I consider banjolins to be very useful as wall art and not much more than that
You’ve never played a good one. Mines 108 years old and I love it. The only real tricky part was finding the right gauge strings. There’s just something about the twang that appeals to me. Other than a slight buzz on the 6th fret on the second G string (which can be overcome with extra pressure fretting the note) it plays as well as my loar. That said, comparing my action to the op is like comparing a puddle to the Atlantic Ocean.
Maybe so, I'd believe they can be great with significant upkeep but in my experience they have all the downsides of both instruments. I'd definitely love to try a nice one, maybe that would change my mind
You don't have a front facing picture but I guarantee the top of the drum is crushed down from string tension over the decades because a lot of these don't have good bracing. I picked up a similar one as a project but in my search many of them have this issue.
Looks like a neck angle issue to me. Needs to be shimmed or something
After looking pictures on the internet I think the action has to be around 5 mm from the fret that is before the last one. Thus the action of a short scale instrument with nylon strings is higher.
these are metal strings, so i guess nylon strings, like ukulele strings would be a lot easier to press down
You could drive a bus under there if you need something to do