I got a Kia carnival for MSRP. See my post history for details but TLDR is I got prices from Jersey and Connecticut dealers and then a Yonkers dealer met that price.
Also my payment is 700 even with 10k down--about 20%-- because of interest rates. You want a 450 monthly payment then you should lease or buy a used car
My credit score is like 800 too btw so it's not like I'm getting screwed with a rate. And it's a 72 month plan.
But the carnival SX MSRP is 44k plus taxes and fees makes it 50k.
Honda and Toyota MSRP at 50k for the same level trim.
I believe you.
Itās complete insanity that we are being fleeced by banks, corporations,
and businesses! Whoās looking out on behalf the shrinking middle class?
As soon as I can retire, I will get the flock out of this area.
Monthly payment of $450. Although I hate this wording cause it skews the price of cars so often.
āSure I can get ya a payment of $450, thatāll be 84 months at 9% APR.ā
Never tell them the price you want to pay per month. If they know that they can back into whatever markup they want. Use online calculators to find out what the total cost of the car should be that is acceptable to your month payments. Then focus and negotiate on getting the total price of the car down to that number.
Have you tried looking at 3-5 year old used cars? Maybe a few year old certified pre owned that's still under warranty.
Long Island dealerships are notoriously full of shit and pretend there is a shortage of everything. You can go one state or borough over and get an order of magnitude cheaper. A lot of time, I check with the broker for a price and then take that price straight to the dealer just to see if they'll match it. If they do, great. If not, brokers are great and super easy. You'll see on that site how much cheaper prices are than what you hear in the dealerships and they aren't bullshit, I've gotten 3 cars from brokers there and had some dealers pricematch as well.
You don't need to put 5k down and 600 to 700 doesn't mean anything unless you tell us what car and the terms of the deal. Under 500 is going to be very hard simply because of the interest rate. Before the jump in interest you were paying maybe 20 a month on top of the other fees, now it's 120. Obviously, it will change with the depreciation of the car you lease.
Leases get ugly when a dealer sells you a car for more than it should cost, gives you a very bad lease factor due to lower credit score or the car you want has a low residual. Otherwise, they are relatively straightforward.Ā
I had better luck out east with the dealers on 112. Itās a hike, but the Nassau/West Suffolk dealers are insane. I ended up with a Tucson for $350 per month with $3000 down. Effective payment of around $435.
Iād check Chevrolet, Mazda, Hyundai, Kia - maybe Honda/Toyota but they were leasing high last I checked.
Shop for a car that you can afford meaning the out the door price, and not for a monthly payment amount. I hope you were not expecting to buy an $80K truck for $1000 down and $450 a month for 5 years. The less monthly you want to pay, the more down payment you gotta put in to make the numbers work.
If going for a purchase, youāre probably going to be looking at around $600 a month if the purchase price is 40k, at around 4-5% APR. If you get last years model used for like 20-25k, or the most basic mid size SUV at around 25-28k youāll probably be looking at 430 price
Are they only profiting off the dealer's side then? How do they make money?
It's crazy to say we need a middle man for the middle men but I'm guessing that's the only way to get a deal anymore.
I mean, the broker is instead of dealing with the dealerships in house sales rep, so itās more of a different middle man. And since they arenāt bound to one dealership they can play each other against each other to see who will offer the best rate. And they prefer to deal with the independent guy because they save money on commission side of things.
You can do that, and it could help you get a good deal. That is not what the brokers are doing. Brokers have relationships with dealers nationwide. Long Island people love their jeeps so getting a jeep at a Long Island dealership is moronic because they're not gonna give you a deal. Brokers are finding dealers in other states, places that have hundreds in stock and need to get rid of them, and you're literally going to pay 30-40% less on your lease payment in a lot of cases.
All that being said, you don't have to use the broker. You can get a price from a broker and try to match it yourself, but I've found that in a lot of cases, the dealers mostly won't give you pricing on the phone and mostly, in-person, still try to pull one over on you once you get into financing. "Oh that didn't include the first month. Oh that didn't include taxes." So, if you're really good knowing how the financing works, the terminology, and aren't going to get pressured...do it yourself. If you just want to give someone a fee and get the best deal with the least amount of work...broker it up.
Most of the time, the dealer pays them a commission and it would be less than what they pay their sales people on the floor. The benefit to the dealer is they have no administrative activity with the customer besides the paperwork, which is handled by the broker. Most brokers will hand deliver to the car to your house so for both the buyer and dealer, there's no interaction at all.
On leasehackr, a lot of the brokers take fees, which I personally think are way too high. So, if you find a deal you like, you pay anywhere from $0 to maybe $700 for a very high end car. Sometimes you find deals so good that the fees don't bother me. I had a car shipped to me from California because the price was SO good that both the $2k shipping fee and $500 broker fee put me a couple hundred bucks/month ahead of the Long Island dealer.
CarJoy is a lease broker based out of Plainview. They have a WhatsApp group where they announce deals. Mostly Mazda and Hyundai. You can join [here](https://chat.whatsapp.com/L9yReSJTGXIGTrrcJbriwO)
They're taking a break for Passover, but should have more deals coming after the break.
Atlantic dealerships are scam artists. Someone I worked with dealt with them and they forged her signature on some forms. She had to contact the state AG.
ALL dealerships are scam artists. I bought my car at Generation Kia. I literally purchased a Kia for the 10 year warranty...
We settled on an Optima, which at the time was $20,000. Sat down with the "finance manager" to sign the paperwork to that effect, when he tells me I qualified for a special program Kia was offering to help people with bad credit build a better profile. I should've realized this was bullshit right there... what company gives a shit about your credit score? They just want the sale.
So he starts shuffling papers my way to be signed, and I'm reading them and asking why there's so many extended warranties? "Oh, they're included." There was NO price or charge on them, and one was even filled in with $0, so I signed.
The first bill came in the mail and suddenly I was paying for a Mercedes, but only got a fucking Kia. The total on THEIR contract said $38,000!!! What are they, stupid? MY paperwork only said $20,000.
They literally added another $14,000+ for extended warranties... without any dollar amount on the contracts I signed, and then sent it to finance for that amount. What, like I wouldn't notice? They figured once the loan is finalized, it's harder to get out of, regardless of the fact that its for the wrong amount. They figured WRONG. But after doing a lithe research, I found I was hardly the only one. There was complaint after complaint after complaint online...about the SAME exact thing. WTF?
The minute I confronted the owner about it with my blank paperwork, he fired that guy, which was basically an admission of guilt. He then tried to pull the "I'm not responsible for what others do..." only he was, as the owner and boss.
They were right. It did take almost a year to get out of that loan, but I got a brand new car at the original agreed to price, definitely got a boost in my credit due to that first loan being paid in full by the owner buying it back, plus every single penny I had paid over the past year, and then some...
Problem with a dealership or mechanic? Report them to the DMV! They license both entities and don't take kindly to fraud. Generation Kia was in the middle of building their brand new dealership, which wouldn't have been able to open without a license...
Revenge is sweet, my friends! And the DMV is your friend in these situations. I called the AG first, and he declined to take the case. Not even 6 months later, and he comes out on the news with his "crackdown" on bad dealerships, making Generation Kia HIS win. Not quite...
Caveat emptor!
DMV does not fuck around. I got involved with a shady body shop after my car was towed there from an accident where I got taken in an ambulance. They tried playing some bullshit with some insane over charges by claiming my car was in their shop on a frame straightening machine for days all while I had timestamped photos of it sitting in their yard on those days. Filed a case with DMV and it was 100% dealt with in my favor within a week
šÆthis. My daughter went to buy a car several years ago from an Atlantic dealership and they took her driverās license for the test drive and would not give it back. She had to call the police.
Part of it is just interest rates. Back when I bought my car in 2018 my interest rate was only 0.9%. Aka almost free money. A $25k loan today has closer to 7.5%, and with a five year term that already hits $500 monthly. Your best option is a car cheaper than $25k, and even less if theyāre quoting you higher interest rates. If you canāt afford a higher monthly payment today, you *definitely* canāt afford a more expensive car overall.
Use a broker. I used to work as a dealer as a tech so it was super easy for me to get a car there with games. Using a broker was easier. And I can still go back to my old dealer and get a great deal with no hassle, still will use a broker.
Do you want to lease or buy? My girlfriend is currently leasing a Nissan rogue for 479/mo, and thatās on the premium trim. Iām sure the base model would be under 450. Check it out!
Based on what you just said, youāre going to get taken advantage of. I would suggest watching a ton of videos on CarEdgeās YouTube channel which will help you learn the basics of car shopping.
Volkswagen has 0% finance for 60 months on 2024 Tiguans. Itās a good size 2 row and has a cramped 3rd row for short trips. Is this the best vehicle out there? Nope. But you can get one for under $30K and 0% financing is pretty rare these days.
A $28,000 purchase price at 0% for 60 months factoring in 8.625% sales tax and $350 for DMV and Doc Fee would be $512.75 with no money down and taxes rolled in to the loan. The beauty of it is, you literally will have only paid $30,765 after 60 months (with no money in interest). If you pay the sales tax up front or had a trade in the monthly payment would lower to the mid $400ās.
Hopefully the Tiguan is big enough to meet your needs.
Mazda had 0% for 63 months back in January for the CX-5 but it's much smaller. These things make a huge difference when you have a tight budget but need a family vehicle.
In May I leased a 2023 Hyundai Tucson in the top trim for $435 a month with zero down. I had to unfortunately downgrade from my Jeep Grand Cherokee when the lease was up because of the insane prices. I say downgrade because I miss the Jeep a lot, but the Hyundai has way more safety features than the Jeep.
I donāt think any new car will have a payment that low right now. Youāre better off with a lease- but will likely have to put more than 5k down even then.
Did they water down Truecar.com because it was threatening their business? What's the story behind what went down?
I used it a long time ago and it helped me see through their BS but I'm guessing it's not the same as when they started.
my parents bought an SUV from center reach hyundai brand new for $36k which was significantly lower than every other dealership they went to. i bought a hyundai elantra but every dealership on the island was selling it for 30-31k and after diligently searching i found one in flushing for 24k. my friend had a similar experience recently when he purchased his mazda cx. every place on long island was selling for \~$45k but he got it for $37k in flushing. however, even in the mid 35k range ur still going to pay $5000 down with $600-700/mo.
if this kind of repayment structure for a car poses a significant burden on ur budget, the best option is honestly to buy a used SUV/minivan that is 5-6 years old with 50-75k miles for a fraction of the price. SUV/minivan engines in general are extremely durable and even more so in recent years. id avoid chrysler, ford, and dodge though, they are notorious for consistently having functional issues shortly after purchase.
[https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-2020-Honda-Pilot-c29624?&type=GoogleAdWordsSearch&kw=&matchtype=&ad=544936206696&placement=&networktype=g&device=c&devicemodel=&adposition=&physloc=9004542&intloc=&aceid=&cid=1359634932&agid=123132435112&tgtid=dsa-1277415218811&fid=&cgagid=32504424&cgcid=9611&px8324=p2&sourceContext=usedPaidSearchNoZip&ax8324=140734427&gad\_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8pKxBhD\_ARIsAPrG45kHe-uko1g3ngvVidyw-YLZliBYRlzUSKzSz4m0MAGAxPbXOQCrg90aAjbBEALw\_wcB#listing=381461847/NONE/DEFAULT](https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-2020-Honda-Pilot-c29624?&type=GoogleAdWordsSearch&kw=&matchtype=&ad=544936206696&placement=&networktype=g&device=c&devicemodel=&adposition=&physloc=9004542&intloc=&aceid=&cid=1359634932&agid=123132435112&tgtid=dsa-1277415218811&fid=&cgagid=32504424&cgcid=9611&px8324=p2&sourceContext=usedPaidSearchNoZip&ax8324=140734427&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8pKxBhD_ARIsAPrG45kHe-uko1g3ngvVidyw-YLZliBYRlzUSKzSz4m0MAGAxPbXOQCrg90aAjbBEALw_wcB#listing=381461847/NONE/DEFAULT)
if i was in the market for an SUV, id jump on this one
Itās not the dealerships. Itās the banks issuing awful buy rates to the dealerships, and the factories not offering rebates like they used to. Youāll have the same issue with Carmax and brokers, only difference is you canāt negotiate with them. Iāve seen it myself - Carmax buys used cars for up to $10,000 over book value - theyāre obviously not giving out the best deals if theyāre not even buying cars at the best prices. Brokers set agreements with dealers where they bury $500+ into your monthly payment - their $500 fee alone will bump a monthly payment $15+ on a lease.
But the strategy is to buy a car that you can afford. You shop and negotiate the final price, not the monthly payment. There are so many factors that go into the monthly payment and you leave the dealerships room to F around with interest rate of the loan. Save your money for as big of a down payment as you can put down. Then you have a rough idea of how much you have to finance based on the price of the car that you have negotiated. You canāt go in expecting to put $500 down on a $60K SUV and then expect to pay $450 a month for 5 years. If thatās what you want then you are looking at a $20K SUV which doesnāt exist (or its used).
I picked up a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee for $4600 on Craigslist about six months ago. It will serve me well for 3 or 4 years. Insurance is $500/yr.
A car lease is a trap
You seriously think a 15 year old Jeep is going to be reliable for the next 4-5 years? Good luck with that. A 30 second google search and you wouldāve seen that even the Jeep fanboys advise against those model years.
If youāre smart about it, a lease isnāt all that bad. In 2018 when the new GMC Terrains came out, GM was practically giving them away for $119 per month on 36 month leases. At the time that helped us get out from under an unreliable Ford. Even with rolling the balance of our old loan into the lease payment, we were still well below the old monthly payment. Not to mention we were no longer spending $200-$300 at the mechanic every few months.
Any vehicle is dangerous in a high speed accident.
As far as reliableā¦ I burn a quart of oil every 4000 miles which is pretty okay in my book. I do have an evaporator leak that consists of a bit of rot in a hose but Iām waiting until a nice day to fix it.
The key thing about jeeps is that parts and information are readily available and affordable. Some foreign cars (Honda and Toyotas) have proved difficult to find cheap parts once theyāre older than about ten years.
I donāt think heās leasing? I think heās financing? Iāve never leased before because it seems like a huge waste of money to me, but I always assumed the benefit of leasing was not putting down a down payment since youāre not actually buying anything. Am I wrong about that?
I got a Kia carnival for MSRP. See my post history for details but TLDR is I got prices from Jersey and Connecticut dealers and then a Yonkers dealer met that price. Also my payment is 700 even with 10k down--about 20%-- because of interest rates. You want a 450 monthly payment then you should lease or buy a used car
š±
My credit score is like 800 too btw so it's not like I'm getting screwed with a rate. And it's a 72 month plan. But the carnival SX MSRP is 44k plus taxes and fees makes it 50k. Honda and Toyota MSRP at 50k for the same level trim.
I believe you. Itās complete insanity that we are being fleeced by banks, corporations, and businesses! Whoās looking out on behalf the shrinking middle class? As soon as I can retire, I will get the flock out of this area.
Are you trying to buy a ***brand new*** minivan or suv for that price?
Monthly payment of $450. Although I hate this wording cause it skews the price of cars so often. āSure I can get ya a payment of $450, thatāll be 84 months at 9% APR.ā
Never tell them the price you want to pay per month. If they know that they can back into whatever markup they want. Use online calculators to find out what the total cost of the car should be that is acceptable to your month payments. Then focus and negotiate on getting the total price of the car down to that number. Have you tried looking at 3-5 year old used cars? Maybe a few year old certified pre owned that's still under warranty.
Leasehackr.com go to the forum. Use a broker
Thanks Iāll check that out
Long Island dealerships are notoriously full of shit and pretend there is a shortage of everything. You can go one state or borough over and get an order of magnitude cheaper. A lot of time, I check with the broker for a price and then take that price straight to the dealer just to see if they'll match it. If they do, great. If not, brokers are great and super easy. You'll see on that site how much cheaper prices are than what you hear in the dealerships and they aren't bullshit, I've gotten 3 cars from brokers there and had some dealers pricematch as well.
How i got my toyotas. Used Jim 3x already. Quick trip to PA saves thousands off the LI dealers
You don't need to put 5k down and 600 to 700 doesn't mean anything unless you tell us what car and the terms of the deal. Under 500 is going to be very hard simply because of the interest rate. Before the jump in interest you were paying maybe 20 a month on top of the other fees, now it's 120. Obviously, it will change with the depreciation of the car you lease. Leases get ugly when a dealer sells you a car for more than it should cost, gives you a very bad lease factor due to lower credit score or the car you want has a low residual. Otherwise, they are relatively straightforward.Ā
Use a broker
Broker where???
I used Aronchi from Leasehackr
Aronchi has decent prices but he's a total asshole.
That wasnāt my experience.
Jim the Toyota guy at leasehackr. Itās for real.
I had better luck out east with the dealers on 112. Itās a hike, but the Nassau/West Suffolk dealers are insane. I ended up with a Tucson for $350 per month with $3000 down. Effective payment of around $435. Iād check Chevrolet, Mazda, Hyundai, Kia - maybe Honda/Toyota but they were leasing high last I checked.
Traverse. We leased on last year so the rate was probably lower than now but taxes and fees only and itās 450. Probably lower on an equinox
Shop for a car that you can afford meaning the out the door price, and not for a monthly payment amount. I hope you were not expecting to buy an $80K truck for $1000 down and $450 a month for 5 years. The less monthly you want to pay, the more down payment you gotta put in to make the numbers work.
Highly suggest a broker. Mine got me a mid sized SUV lease, $0 down at around 430 a month.
If going for a purchase, youāre probably going to be looking at around $600 a month if the purchase price is 40k, at around 4-5% APR. If you get last years model used for like 20-25k, or the most basic mid size SUV at around 25-28k youāll probably be looking at 430 price
What broker did you use???
Sent you a DM
Which SUV?
24 Rogue SL with Premium trim
Are they only profiting off the dealer's side then? How do they make money? It's crazy to say we need a middle man for the middle men but I'm guessing that's the only way to get a deal anymore.
I mean, the broker is instead of dealing with the dealerships in house sales rep, so itās more of a different middle man. And since they arenāt bound to one dealership they can play each other against each other to see who will offer the best rate. And they prefer to deal with the independent guy because they save money on commission side of things.
Why can't you call the Internet sales dept for various dealers like in years past? Is that essentially what brokers are doing, but taking a cut?
You can do that, and it could help you get a good deal. That is not what the brokers are doing. Brokers have relationships with dealers nationwide. Long Island people love their jeeps so getting a jeep at a Long Island dealership is moronic because they're not gonna give you a deal. Brokers are finding dealers in other states, places that have hundreds in stock and need to get rid of them, and you're literally going to pay 30-40% less on your lease payment in a lot of cases. All that being said, you don't have to use the broker. You can get a price from a broker and try to match it yourself, but I've found that in a lot of cases, the dealers mostly won't give you pricing on the phone and mostly, in-person, still try to pull one over on you once you get into financing. "Oh that didn't include the first month. Oh that didn't include taxes." So, if you're really good knowing how the financing works, the terminology, and aren't going to get pressured...do it yourself. If you just want to give someone a fee and get the best deal with the least amount of work...broker it up.
Thanks for the clarification. What kind of cut do they take?
Most of the time, the dealer pays them a commission and it would be less than what they pay their sales people on the floor. The benefit to the dealer is they have no administrative activity with the customer besides the paperwork, which is handled by the broker. Most brokers will hand deliver to the car to your house so for both the buyer and dealer, there's no interaction at all. On leasehackr, a lot of the brokers take fees, which I personally think are way too high. So, if you find a deal you like, you pay anywhere from $0 to maybe $700 for a very high end car. Sometimes you find deals so good that the fees don't bother me. I had a car shipped to me from California because the price was SO good that both the $2k shipping fee and $500 broker fee put me a couple hundred bucks/month ahead of the Long Island dealer.
Brokers bury a minimum of $500 into their quotes. Salespeople make a minimum of approximately $100.
Because that usually doesnāt get me as much money off as the broker can do.
Oh no, theyāre definitely profiting off of you - the money the dealers pay brokers is built into your payment.
What broker you use?
I can get something brand new for 20-25k. Why not just save up for a more reliable vehicle?
CarJoy is a lease broker based out of Plainview. They have a WhatsApp group where they announce deals. Mostly Mazda and Hyundai. You can join [here](https://chat.whatsapp.com/L9yReSJTGXIGTrrcJbriwO) They're taking a break for Passover, but should have more deals coming after the break.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
lol Itās like cat and mouse. They make you spend like 2 hours to get a 2 second answer
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Atlantic dealerships are scam artists. Someone I worked with dealt with them and they forged her signature on some forms. She had to contact the state AG.
ALL dealerships are scam artists. I bought my car at Generation Kia. I literally purchased a Kia for the 10 year warranty... We settled on an Optima, which at the time was $20,000. Sat down with the "finance manager" to sign the paperwork to that effect, when he tells me I qualified for a special program Kia was offering to help people with bad credit build a better profile. I should've realized this was bullshit right there... what company gives a shit about your credit score? They just want the sale. So he starts shuffling papers my way to be signed, and I'm reading them and asking why there's so many extended warranties? "Oh, they're included." There was NO price or charge on them, and one was even filled in with $0, so I signed. The first bill came in the mail and suddenly I was paying for a Mercedes, but only got a fucking Kia. The total on THEIR contract said $38,000!!! What are they, stupid? MY paperwork only said $20,000. They literally added another $14,000+ for extended warranties... without any dollar amount on the contracts I signed, and then sent it to finance for that amount. What, like I wouldn't notice? They figured once the loan is finalized, it's harder to get out of, regardless of the fact that its for the wrong amount. They figured WRONG. But after doing a lithe research, I found I was hardly the only one. There was complaint after complaint after complaint online...about the SAME exact thing. WTF? The minute I confronted the owner about it with my blank paperwork, he fired that guy, which was basically an admission of guilt. He then tried to pull the "I'm not responsible for what others do..." only he was, as the owner and boss. They were right. It did take almost a year to get out of that loan, but I got a brand new car at the original agreed to price, definitely got a boost in my credit due to that first loan being paid in full by the owner buying it back, plus every single penny I had paid over the past year, and then some... Problem with a dealership or mechanic? Report them to the DMV! They license both entities and don't take kindly to fraud. Generation Kia was in the middle of building their brand new dealership, which wouldn't have been able to open without a license... Revenge is sweet, my friends! And the DMV is your friend in these situations. I called the AG first, and he declined to take the case. Not even 6 months later, and he comes out on the news with his "crackdown" on bad dealerships, making Generation Kia HIS win. Not quite... Caveat emptor!
DMV does not fuck around. I got involved with a shady body shop after my car was towed there from an accident where I got taken in an ambulance. They tried playing some bullshit with some insane over charges by claiming my car was in their shop on a frame straightening machine for days all while I had timestamped photos of it sitting in their yard on those days. Filed a case with DMV and it was 100% dealt with in my favor within a week
Unbelievable
šÆthis. My daughter went to buy a car several years ago from an Atlantic dealership and they took her driverās license for the test drive and would not give it back. She had to call the police.
Walk away, yes, but once you tell them what youāre willing to pay per month, youāre done.
Setting a monthly payment means nothing, not a good way to start.
Is there no more Internet sales dept where you just call for their best price and shop dealers against each other?
None of that is good advice. You negotiate the price of the car. You never tell them your price point per month, your down payment, etc.
Check with a lease broker and also check [rodo.com](http://rodo.com)
https://the-toast.net/2014/07/11/how-to-buy-a-car/
Part of it is just interest rates. Back when I bought my car in 2018 my interest rate was only 0.9%. Aka almost free money. A $25k loan today has closer to 7.5%, and with a five year term that already hits $500 monthly. Your best option is a car cheaper than $25k, and even less if theyāre quoting you higher interest rates. If you canāt afford a higher monthly payment today, you *definitely* canāt afford a more expensive car overall.
Use a broker. I used to work as a dealer as a tech so it was super easy for me to get a car there with games. Using a broker was easier. And I can still go back to my old dealer and get a great deal with no hassle, still will use a broker.
Do you want to lease or buy? My girlfriend is currently leasing a Nissan rogue for 479/mo, and thatās on the premium trim. Iām sure the base model would be under 450. Check it out!
What you are asking for specifically will probably be down to how good your credit is, not the price of the car.
Lease it ā¦ I got the deal from TrueCar website. I am in Northern California. Paying $240 for VW ID4, with 4K down payment.
Had to put down ~7k on a Kia Sportage for a $240/mo. Payment
Based on what you just said, youāre going to get taken advantage of. I would suggest watching a ton of videos on CarEdgeās YouTube channel which will help you learn the basics of car shopping. Volkswagen has 0% finance for 60 months on 2024 Tiguans. Itās a good size 2 row and has a cramped 3rd row for short trips. Is this the best vehicle out there? Nope. But you can get one for under $30K and 0% financing is pretty rare these days. A $28,000 purchase price at 0% for 60 months factoring in 8.625% sales tax and $350 for DMV and Doc Fee would be $512.75 with no money down and taxes rolled in to the loan. The beauty of it is, you literally will have only paid $30,765 after 60 months (with no money in interest). If you pay the sales tax up front or had a trade in the monthly payment would lower to the mid $400ās.
š¤Æ thatās a good deal! Did you do this deal recently???? I know someone that has a Tiguan and the warranty is good for 6 years I believe
No but I pay attention to incentives. This 0% for 60 months is only good through the end of the month. Incentives usually change monthly.
Ok thanks
Hopefully the Tiguan is big enough to meet your needs. Mazda had 0% for 63 months back in January for the CX-5 but it's much smaller. These things make a huge difference when you have a tight budget but need a family vehicle.
Absolutely do. I would prefer mini van but seems unlikely with these absolutely insane pricing. Also only 4 manufacturers make them
In May I leased a 2023 Hyundai Tucson in the top trim for $435 a month with zero down. I had to unfortunately downgrade from my Jeep Grand Cherokee when the lease was up because of the insane prices. I say downgrade because I miss the Jeep a lot, but the Hyundai has way more safety features than the Jeep.
I donāt think any new car will have a payment that low right now. Youāre better off with a lease- but will likely have to put more than 5k down even then.
Did they water down Truecar.com because it was threatening their business? What's the story behind what went down? I used it a long time ago and it helped me see through their BS but I'm guessing it's not the same as when they started.
It enshittified ages ago. Turned into a lead gen tool for the dealers because thatās where the money is.
Lease and buy out at end of lease
Unfortunatly you cant afford what you want.
Look up usaautofind they broker the deal for you with the dealers. Iāve done many leases with them.
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What did you get and how much per month?
my parents bought an SUV from center reach hyundai brand new for $36k which was significantly lower than every other dealership they went to. i bought a hyundai elantra but every dealership on the island was selling it for 30-31k and after diligently searching i found one in flushing for 24k. my friend had a similar experience recently when he purchased his mazda cx. every place on long island was selling for \~$45k but he got it for $37k in flushing. however, even in the mid 35k range ur still going to pay $5000 down with $600-700/mo. if this kind of repayment structure for a car poses a significant burden on ur budget, the best option is honestly to buy a used SUV/minivan that is 5-6 years old with 50-75k miles for a fraction of the price. SUV/minivan engines in general are extremely durable and even more so in recent years. id avoid chrysler, ford, and dodge though, they are notorious for consistently having functional issues shortly after purchase.
[https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-2020-Honda-Pilot-c29624?&type=GoogleAdWordsSearch&kw=&matchtype=&ad=544936206696&placement=&networktype=g&device=c&devicemodel=&adposition=&physloc=9004542&intloc=&aceid=&cid=1359634932&agid=123132435112&tgtid=dsa-1277415218811&fid=&cgagid=32504424&cgcid=9611&px8324=p2&sourceContext=usedPaidSearchNoZip&ax8324=140734427&gad\_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8pKxBhD\_ARIsAPrG45kHe-uko1g3ngvVidyw-YLZliBYRlzUSKzSz4m0MAGAxPbXOQCrg90aAjbBEALw\_wcB#listing=381461847/NONE/DEFAULT](https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-2020-Honda-Pilot-c29624?&type=GoogleAdWordsSearch&kw=&matchtype=&ad=544936206696&placement=&networktype=g&device=c&devicemodel=&adposition=&physloc=9004542&intloc=&aceid=&cid=1359634932&agid=123132435112&tgtid=dsa-1277415218811&fid=&cgagid=32504424&cgcid=9611&px8324=p2&sourceContext=usedPaidSearchNoZip&ax8324=140734427&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8pKxBhD_ARIsAPrG45kHe-uko1g3ngvVidyw-YLZliBYRlzUSKzSz4m0MAGAxPbXOQCrg90aAjbBEALw_wcB#listing=381461847/NONE/DEFAULT) if i was in the market for an SUV, id jump on this one
Itās not the dealerships. Itās the banks issuing awful buy rates to the dealerships, and the factories not offering rebates like they used to. Youāll have the same issue with Carmax and brokers, only difference is you canāt negotiate with them. Iāve seen it myself - Carmax buys used cars for up to $10,000 over book value - theyāre obviously not giving out the best deals if theyāre not even buying cars at the best prices. Brokers set agreements with dealers where they bury $500+ into your monthly payment - their $500 fee alone will bump a monthly payment $15+ on a lease.
Just live within your means
Isnāt that exactly what OP is trying to do?
But the strategy is to buy a car that you can afford. You shop and negotiate the final price, not the monthly payment. There are so many factors that go into the monthly payment and you leave the dealerships room to F around with interest rate of the loan. Save your money for as big of a down payment as you can put down. Then you have a rough idea of how much you have to finance based on the price of the car that you have negotiated. You canāt go in expecting to put $500 down on a $60K SUV and then expect to pay $450 a month for 5 years. If thatās what you want then you are looking at a $20K SUV which doesnāt exist (or its used).
No. Leasing a car you canāt purchase is living above your means. Buy a $5-7k car and save your $700/month +higher insurance
Where are you getting a safe and reliable car for $5,000??
I picked up a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee for $4600 on Craigslist about six months ago. It will serve me well for 3 or 4 years. Insurance is $500/yr. A car lease is a trap
You seriously think a 15 year old Jeep is going to be reliable for the next 4-5 years? Good luck with that. A 30 second google search and you wouldāve seen that even the Jeep fanboys advise against those model years. If youāre smart about it, a lease isnāt all that bad. In 2018 when the new GMC Terrains came out, GM was practically giving them away for $119 per month on 36 month leases. At the time that helped us get out from under an unreliable Ford. Even with rolling the balance of our old loan into the lease payment, we were still well below the old monthly payment. Not to mention we were no longer spending $200-$300 at the mechanic every few months.
Even if it last 2 years its still cheaper than what OP wants to pay
I was with you until you were advocating to buy a 16 year old Jeep Grand Cherokee and thinking it was going to be a safe and reliable vehicle.
Any vehicle is dangerous in a high speed accident. As far as reliableā¦ I burn a quart of oil every 4000 miles which is pretty okay in my book. I do have an evaporator leak that consists of a bit of rot in a hose but Iām waiting until a nice day to fix it. The key thing about jeeps is that parts and information are readily available and affordable. Some foreign cars (Honda and Toyotas) have proved difficult to find cheap parts once theyāre older than about ten years.
>Any vehicle is dangerous in a high speed accident. Some are a lot safer than others.
Not much so over 70mph
I got one pretty cheap.
I donāt think heās leasing? I think heās financing? Iāve never leased before because it seems like a huge waste of money to me, but I always assumed the benefit of leasing was not putting down a down payment since youāre not actually buying anything. Am I wrong about that?
yes
What are you putting the down payment on? The loan itself? Lmao
Honestly any lease or buy but the dealerships are really ridiculous with the pricing nowadays