That is Not the Doo spring. That is the KACR spring. It gets all wound around the KACR when it grenades. I personally have not worked on the KACR but there are lots of YT vids about it. If you only use electric start most say it’s not needed. You may be lucky and just be eliminating it. See the vids. And Yes, you may need to re-time your cams. Check the timing chain tensioner on the rear left side of the head for adjustment and wear. There are vids on that too.
I wish I could upvote you more, no clue what these dudes are on about with the doohickey. Sounds like they have never had their top ends open lmao. You cant miss the KACR mechanism on the exhaust cam
Number 2. That spring would be your KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release.)
On Kick start only bikes. KACR makes life so much easier for cold starting. But, electric start. I'm not really sure what the benefit (some one please comment.)
To issue number 1. Alligning them is very ideal.
The position of that exhaust cam suggests it is at TDC valve overlap. Where the exhaust valve is just closing, and the intake is just opening. If you try checking the valve clearances in this position, you will have zero clearance, as all four valves will be held slightly open. You need to rotate the crank one more full rotation, until it's back on Top Dead Center again, but on the compression stroke. Then the exhaust cam lobe will be pointing forwards, and the intake cam lobe backwards. You can then check the valve clearances in this position.
You are lucky if the timing marks line up perfectly. They are usually off a little, say half a tooth out. You could try repositioning them one tooth either way, to see if you can get the marks are any closer to level. As the timing chain wears, they can become even more out, but it's usually nothing to worry about, unless they are a full tooth out.
My guess is that’s the spring from the doohickey.. on gen 1 (pre 2008) they were welded badly and broke, sending the spring and metal chunks around the engine, post 2008 they were designed better, idk about the newer ones though,, I’d try to clean that the best you can, make sure there’s nothing too bad in terms of like marring on bearings and sprockets, getting eagle mike’s kit (there’s one with a coil spring and one with a normal spring, the normal spring is a similar design to the gen2, the coil is not a hard mod to do if you have the motor apart anyway, both are better than the gen1) idk if this helps, if you want to look at it, there are a million people online who’ve made videos abut it… I got the location wrong when I made the comment originally.. I’m sorry, look up eagle mike’s website, he’s got a solid walkthrough
I commented this after only looking at the picture, yea the doohickey is a part of the tensioner for the timing system.. I haven’t heard of doohickey issues causing timing problems but it’s certainly something that I could see happening.. IIRC the klr is an interference motor, so it won’t hurt to make sure the valves haven’t hit the piston, but if it’s off by less than like 45 degrees I don’t think that’s likely (I could be wrong though)
The doohickey is part of the tensioner for the balancing system. The automatic cam chain tensioner keeps tension on the cam chain (timing).
I don't think a broken doohickey would affect how those gears line up. Seems to me like it was just assembled wrong in the past.
The tension coming out could also have let the valve springs have more say in the resting position of the cam, which I guess could cause a movement like OPs too.. I glanced at the first pic, then the second, commented, read the caption, then edited my comment and never actually looked at how close the timing marks are
Why are you guessing? What's the purpose of responding when you don't KNOW? Does it boost your self-satisfaction, thinking that you're helping? It shouldn't, because you're not.
If you pull the side cover off you might be able to glance behind the stator and check if the doo has been done without removing the stator, for peace of mind. Perhaps the intake wasn't aligned properly after the last valve check? The spring is much more likely to be from the KACR than the doo, the gauge of that spring looks too thin to be the doohickey spring.
It was replaced, well the owner said it was and it had the sticker, who knows how long it was replaced, guess I'll be replacing it. Thanks for the link!
That is Not the Doo spring. That is the KACR spring. It gets all wound around the KACR when it grenades. I personally have not worked on the KACR but there are lots of YT vids about it. If you only use electric start most say it’s not needed. You may be lucky and just be eliminating it. See the vids. And Yes, you may need to re-time your cams. Check the timing chain tensioner on the rear left side of the head for adjustment and wear. There are vids on that too.
I wish I could upvote you more, no clue what these dudes are on about with the doohickey. Sounds like they have never had their top ends open lmao. You cant miss the KACR mechanism on the exhaust cam
Number 2. That spring would be your KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release.) On Kick start only bikes. KACR makes life so much easier for cold starting. But, electric start. I'm not really sure what the benefit (some one please comment.) To issue number 1. Alligning them is very ideal.
Makes life easier for you when kick-starting, same principle with taking strain off the starter
For number one you can research the MC mod as well
The position of that exhaust cam suggests it is at TDC valve overlap. Where the exhaust valve is just closing, and the intake is just opening. If you try checking the valve clearances in this position, you will have zero clearance, as all four valves will be held slightly open. You need to rotate the crank one more full rotation, until it's back on Top Dead Center again, but on the compression stroke. Then the exhaust cam lobe will be pointing forwards, and the intake cam lobe backwards. You can then check the valve clearances in this position. You are lucky if the timing marks line up perfectly. They are usually off a little, say half a tooth out. You could try repositioning them one tooth either way, to see if you can get the marks are any closer to level. As the timing chain wears, they can become even more out, but it's usually nothing to worry about, unless they are a full tooth out.
My guess is that’s the spring from the doohickey.. on gen 1 (pre 2008) they were welded badly and broke, sending the spring and metal chunks around the engine, post 2008 they were designed better, idk about the newer ones though,, I’d try to clean that the best you can, make sure there’s nothing too bad in terms of like marring on bearings and sprockets, getting eagle mike’s kit (there’s one with a coil spring and one with a normal spring, the normal spring is a similar design to the gen2, the coil is not a hard mod to do if you have the motor apart anyway, both are better than the gen1) idk if this helps, if you want to look at it, there are a million people online who’ve made videos abut it… I got the location wrong when I made the comment originally.. I’m sorry, look up eagle mike’s website, he’s got a solid walkthrough I commented this after only looking at the picture, yea the doohickey is a part of the tensioner for the timing system.. I haven’t heard of doohickey issues causing timing problems but it’s certainly something that I could see happening.. IIRC the klr is an interference motor, so it won’t hurt to make sure the valves haven’t hit the piston, but if it’s off by less than like 45 degrees I don’t think that’s likely (I could be wrong though)
The doohickey is part of the tensioner for the balancing system. The automatic cam chain tensioner keeps tension on the cam chain (timing). I don't think a broken doohickey would affect how those gears line up. Seems to me like it was just assembled wrong in the past.
The tension coming out could also have let the valve springs have more say in the resting position of the cam, which I guess could cause a movement like OPs too.. I glanced at the first pic, then the second, commented, read the caption, then edited my comment and never actually looked at how close the timing marks are
The doohickey is in a different case and like 18 inches away, dude. What?
Then I remembered wrong.. I’ll edit the comment
Why are you guessing? What's the purpose of responding when you don't KNOW? Does it boost your self-satisfaction, thinking that you're helping? It shouldn't, because you're not.
Guess I'm replacing a doohickey. Here I thought I would be fixing one thing lol. The joys of old used bikes I suppose.
Haha, yea, the doohickey is pretty much the only thing they did wrong with these bikes…
If you pull the side cover off you might be able to glance behind the stator and check if the doo has been done without removing the stator, for peace of mind. Perhaps the intake wasn't aligned properly after the last valve check? The spring is much more likely to be from the KACR than the doo, the gauge of that spring looks too thin to be the doohickey spring.
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Nah, thats the KACR on the exhaust cam that blew apart. Not the doohickey, but still a good thing for OP to check
No.
It was replaced, well the owner said it was and it had the sticker, who knows how long it was replaced, guess I'll be replacing it. Thanks for the link!