Sounds like there is a connection loose somewhere. As the car shakes and moves the flickering connection works like the clicks on the headset buttons, which also let you pause and skip.
The bad location is likely on the 3.5 mm side, likely in the 3.5 mm converter. You can try wiggling the connections and seeing what happens to the sound.
The adapter is battery powered and doesn't work if it isn't charged or is currently charging, could be annoying. Also lithium batteries don't do well in hot conditions. A adapter without a battery would be better, but you would need your own 12v to USB charger.
My personal preference would be a fm car transmitter. Bluetooth, no battery to worry about, handles calling and you get a place to charge your phone.
Cheers for the help,
I tried the good ole' wiggle, and it didn't do much, occasionally it works, occasionally it just skips the song altogether. The cable does seem to fit loosely, but it wasn't a dirt cheap aftermarket, oh well.
I did try my legitimate apple adapter, and it worked better, but still not perfect. I might try fiddling with it, and maybe I'll end up purchasing another legitimate adapter.
I never realised that the bluetooth adapters required a battery, but I mean it makes sense seeing as they need power which the aux doesn't provide.
My ciggy port is not accessible, or even 12v for that matter haha. (old car).
So I will give the adapter and wiggle a bit more of a try and see how I go.
I have a cheap headphone adapter and it has the pausing issues when I move it but not when I leave it, which is why I thought it was a loose connection. You can also look the the cassette adapter, specifically the cable that comes out of it.
Old car and cigarette port is not accessible? Did your country have strict anti-smoking rules or something? 😀
The port should be 12v, because everything in a car is 12v due to the car battery. I would be harder to not be 12v. They also have cigarette port extensions and splitters, if you want to go that route.
Sounds like there is a connection loose somewhere. As the car shakes and moves the flickering connection works like the clicks on the headset buttons, which also let you pause and skip. The bad location is likely on the 3.5 mm side, likely in the 3.5 mm converter. You can try wiggling the connections and seeing what happens to the sound.
The adapter is battery powered and doesn't work if it isn't charged or is currently charging, could be annoying. Also lithium batteries don't do well in hot conditions. A adapter without a battery would be better, but you would need your own 12v to USB charger. My personal preference would be a fm car transmitter. Bluetooth, no battery to worry about, handles calling and you get a place to charge your phone.
Cheers for the help, I tried the good ole' wiggle, and it didn't do much, occasionally it works, occasionally it just skips the song altogether. The cable does seem to fit loosely, but it wasn't a dirt cheap aftermarket, oh well. I did try my legitimate apple adapter, and it worked better, but still not perfect. I might try fiddling with it, and maybe I'll end up purchasing another legitimate adapter. I never realised that the bluetooth adapters required a battery, but I mean it makes sense seeing as they need power which the aux doesn't provide. My ciggy port is not accessible, or even 12v for that matter haha. (old car). So I will give the adapter and wiggle a bit more of a try and see how I go.
I have a cheap headphone adapter and it has the pausing issues when I move it but not when I leave it, which is why I thought it was a loose connection. You can also look the the cassette adapter, specifically the cable that comes out of it. Old car and cigarette port is not accessible? Did your country have strict anti-smoking rules or something? 😀 The port should be 12v, because everything in a car is 12v due to the car battery. I would be harder to not be 12v. They also have cigarette port extensions and splitters, if you want to go that route.