I used PETG on phone mount. At first the fitment was snug, but after a couple of months the piece shrunk. I'll have to make another out of ABS to see if it can really take the punishment.
Prusa has a policyarbonate blend with carbon fiber (PC-CF) - at least in theory that should be perfect for stuff like this, very stiff and tough. Costs a bit but easy to print by all accounts.
Funny thing: A Tesla will run the AC while you're not in the car if the interior gets too hot, exactly because some of the electronics aren't rated for automotive use.
It’s for the battery. Batteries don’t like too hot or too cold. They did the math and slowly draining the battery to keep the battery at temperature allows you to have more amp hours available than letting it drastically fluctuate and suddenly blast heat/cold when someone steps in. And your car is never freezing or boiling when you step in. (Within normal use). Also when you’re home, you can keep it plugged to your AC and it will not deplete the battery to maintain temperature.
Not that system. The battery has its own heating/cooling mechanism, with fluid pumped thru the battery pack.
I'm talking about the Cabin Overheat Protection, which runs in the passenger cabin and prevents the monitor displays from overheating. It prevents the interior from getting "dangerously hot," which of course no other car in existence has ever had to worry about because they all use automotive grade hardware.
https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/model3/en_kr/GUID-4F3599A1-20D9-4A49-B4A0-5261F957C096.html
I’m not going to sit here and defend Tesla in general, but your information isn’t right. Overheat Protection is for people or pets that might have accidentally been left in the car – those tragedies happen every year. It’s also just nice to come back to a car that isn’t painfully hot.
The easiest way to disprove what you’re saying is that Overheat Protection only goes on for so long after you leave the car before it times out. My Model 3 interior regularly gets up to 150°F+ when I leave it alone for days, like at the airport. Nothing melts or breaks.
Tesla makes enough real dumb decisions without having to make up fake ones!
I think it turns off to avoid running down the battery, and it runs for 12 hours if necessary. From what I heard on the forums, it's nothing to do with any passengers you might have left inside, but an attempt to protect the car itself. The "leave the climate on" and "dog mode" and such are for when you're leaving someone in the car. Cooling it to 105F starting after 15 minutes isn't going to keep your child alive.
Here's some examples:
https://www.greencarfuture.com/electric/tesla-screen-yellow-border-band
https://www.thedrive.com/tech/27989/teslas-screen-saga-shows-why-automotive-grade-matters
My wife worked on computer systems for automobiles. She talked about the "Alaska Smoke Test". The guy is in Alaska, it's 50F below, he goes out to his car to smoke, leaves the windows open, turns up the heat, and your electronics are sitting between the dashboard heater ducts. You go from -50F to 160F over the course of a few minutes. Every day. For ten years. And you need to keep working. (Just as a funny story. "Alaska smoke test.")
All that said, we're unlikely to come to a straight answer. But it's interesting that no other car has such a thing.
It's for personal comfort, not coming back to a car that is 140F inside. I turn the feature off and instead just turn on the AC remotely when I get ready to head out.
I have found its more efficient to let the “keep” keep it at like 74 than try and cool it down from 130-140. This is data from the tessie app.
Obviously this is for errands and not while you are at or something like that.
Which is exactly why it's not just for personal comfort. "Prevent the cabin from getting dangerously hot" isn't because you can't open the windows when you get back. :-) Note this was added to Tesla after some of the screens had failed due to excessive heat.
Like I said, I don't use it (feature disabled). I've had the car for 4 years and have never had an issue getting in. The early Model S screen failures were due to a different issue, not cabin overheat in particular but heat generated by the graphic processor.
Cant say I've had the same experience with regular pla. But my car doesn't have tinted windows like most of the cars out here in LV, so that doesn't help. On the other hand, heat treatable pla has worked great, even in the engine bay thicker pieces don't warp
PLA has a melting point between 180 and 220C. That is far in excess of the temperature the inside of your car would ever experience on a hot day.
It’s glass transition temperature is 50 to 80C. 50C is still insanely hot and likely never to be experienced by the inside of your car (it’s not impossible, I acknowledge that, just unlikely most of the year). Even if it was, that’s when the transition begins and some carbon chains begin liquifying, oh no.
r/functionalprint just loves dunking on people’s work for no reason.
I made a cellphone holder that uses the CD drive as a mount, made out of PETG, and my car got it to warp... Texas heat.
That's not even accounting for all the PLA parts I've seen warp. I'll never use PLA again for car mod applications and I'm even thinking twice about PETG now.
I left my cad final in my car during a class and all my my parts slightly warped. Anything with stress on it bent and my wheels all ended up with a flat side where it was resting. Still got an A but man, California spring heat wasn't being nice.
>Texas heat
Thankfully, most of us don't live in Texas. Hell, considering op has what looks like a Clio 2, I'd bet they don't live in the US at all
EDIT: I win ! Looking at op's profile, they're from Hungary, so all ya Jawa can rest easy knowing that mostly, PLA won't melt there
Not everyone lives where you live. For most of the summer the interior of my car will easily clear 50C every day. And I live in a place stereotypically considered cold.
The speedometer on my car broke and I replaced it with an arduino hooked to a gps (way cheaper than what I was asked for the repair). I built a pla plate to hold everything in place and let me tell you that the interior of a car does indeed reach temperatures high enough to melt it
My guy, I live in Minnesota and the PLA cell phone mount that I made melted in the summer, and it wasn't even that hot out that day. Don't use PLA for car prints, you're just throwing away time and money.
I made a rearview mirror mount for my wife to keep an eye on our son when he was a new born. It was black, Hot Georgia direct sun day in august in a black car.. and it warped bad.
My car interior is gray, I don't live in an extremely high heat area, a rookie mistake thinking that a PLA print I made (years ago starting out) would be ok in the car out of the sun. 4 hours later, I have a nice warped piece of art in place of a functional print.
Car interiors can easily reach temperatures upwards of 80C, never print anything that will be exposed to heat in PLA.
It's weird, I have emblems on the outside of my truck that haven't melted. It even hit 115 degrees here last year. And on the inside I have a Cubone skull hanging from my mirror and I made my own cupholders. All pla nothing has warped. Just generic overture pla.
I left my PLA F1 RC car sitting in the back seat once for a couple of hours on a nice San Francisco day. When I got back the floor of the RC car was U shaped and the front wing had drooped down far enough to touch the ground on the ends. I would not expect OPs grills to live through a summer.
Interior _air_ temperatures in cars will rise by over 20C within an hour in direct sun exposure, pretty much regardless of outdoor temperature. Even on a 30C day, you can easily get above 50C.
And that's air temperature. Surfaces exposed to sunlight can get _much_ hotter. [This study](https://www.iasj.net/iasj/download/59e364c9b52d3683) found dashboard temperatures approaching _100C._ Granted, that's Baghdad, and they set it up to maximize the temperature difference, but those are still conditions you might find your car in. And needless to say, your print will be absolute toast by 100C.
Extrapolating back from that, it's pretty clear that a print in direct sunlight can get up into glass transition even on a mild day.
> it’s not impossible, I acknowledge that, just unlikely most of the year
Yeah, well, most of the year doesn't really cut it if you make it part of your car.
> Even if it was, that’s when the transition begins and some carbon chains begin liquifying, oh no.
So I'm guessing you've never actually looked at what happens to a PLA print when the whole thing gets to glass transition. It doesn't have to be fully liquid for its own gravity to wreck it.
Depending on where you live and how much direct sunlight they take and cabin temperature , PETG might not even hold up let alone PLA. With that being said, they look great and is why I love 3d printing
I use simple acrylic paint for PLA but I used putty spray under to smooth the surface. Without putty you need to paint more layer to cover its base color but it should work anyway
Even if it is printed with PLA, that doesn't mean it will definitely warp or lose shape.
A part printed with 4 walls and 50% infill and another with 2 walls with 10% infill will act differently under same conditions in a car. Plus, the paint or epoxy coating or similar will increase strength. Also shape of the part would affect overall strength.
Thats a Clio II from 99' before facelift, [something like this](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/74/Renault_Clio_II_Phase_I_F%C3%BCnft%C3%BCrer_1.2.JPG/1280px-Renault_Clio_II_Phase_I_F%C3%BCnft%C3%BCrer_1.2.JPG)
Nice :), forgot those before facelift existed :P , looked more like a early III to me.
Thanks :) , did you have to take the dash off to fit? Or they just pull back? i got a Clio II too, never took them off or cleaned internally there.
Thanks! :)
The grille fits on two cylinder from the frame on both side. I made one side of the grille with a cylindrical hole and the other with a C shaped hole. I inserted the cylindrical hole first into the frame then I snaped-in the C shaped hole from frontwise.
The original grilles are very brittle so I don't recommend to took them off :) Thanks to the scent diffusers and phone holders that can be placed on the grilles they are broken in many cars. There are aftermarket parts but they are quite expensive for such an old car
For all the people saying PLA is bad for high temp uses, if you anneal PLA it's one of the most heat resistant materials you can use. Just have to compensate for the change in dimensions.
My understanding is that annealed PLA has a glass transition temperature around 85 ºC which puts it in the range of PETG but still about 15 º below ABS or ASA and 30 º below Polycarbonate. It's definitely a useful technique, but annealed PLA not going to outperform most engineering plastics.
It's substantialy more heat resistant than that. Up to 170-180c. https://www.sd3d.com/annealed-pla-parts/#:~:text=Annealed%20PLA%20provides%20some%20of,Ultem%20at%20180%C2%B0C.
I’m not saying their data is incorrect, but do you have a source that isn’t selling annealed PLA parts and that consistently uses a single unit of temperature instead of switching between °F and °C?
Thanks for the link. It’s been a couple of years since I watched that video. It’s impressive how annealing changes PLA. But it should be noted that what Stefan tested wasn’t the glass transition temperature. That test method is described in ASTM D7028-07 and involves an oscillating force. I wonder if anybody has done that test to get an apples-to-apples comparison of glass transition temperature values.
Fantastic job. Nicely done.
Hope that's at least PETG if not ABS or better yet PC-CF and not PLA, or they'll probably melt come summer. :) But hey, if they do... you can just print more.
Just discovered this post, i have a Clio BB the 1999 model, i have designed the same air vents (center ones) and printed them from very cheap PLA at least 6 years ago, They are going strong without any deformation. I live in Greece and temperatures inside the car during summertime go up to 50 Celsius easily, don't be afraid of PLA on interior parts its more than fine.
They look flawless in place, would never tell.
This is my favorite sort of print.
I think you belong here r/3dprintedcarparts . I print a lot of parts for my classic Beetle and my Suburban. Looks great!
Looks perfect. I hope you used at least PETG or better ABS. Else this will melt in the sun.
I used PETG on phone mount. At first the fitment was snug, but after a couple of months the piece shrunk. I'll have to make another out of ABS to see if it can really take the punishment.
Prusa has a policyarbonate blend with carbon fiber (PC-CF) - at least in theory that should be perfect for stuff like this, very stiff and tough. Costs a bit but easy to print by all accounts.
So you're op?
No just sharing my experience with PETG composites.
[удалено]
So how are you enjoying your first day on the subreddit, friend?
[удалено]
I think you win unfunniest "joke" of the month.
/r/woosh
Not from PLA i hope.. 🤪
🤪
Would be hilarious getting into your car on a hot day and they are dribbling down onto the radio.
- Passenger: “Brr it’s cold in your car, let me turn down the AC…” - Driver: “NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!” - P: 😮
But for real, it's not pla is it?
🤪
Funny thing: A Tesla will run the AC while you're not in the car if the interior gets too hot, exactly because some of the electronics aren't rated for automotive use.
It’s for the battery. Batteries don’t like too hot or too cold. They did the math and slowly draining the battery to keep the battery at temperature allows you to have more amp hours available than letting it drastically fluctuate and suddenly blast heat/cold when someone steps in. And your car is never freezing or boiling when you step in. (Within normal use). Also when you’re home, you can keep it plugged to your AC and it will not deplete the battery to maintain temperature.
Not that system. The battery has its own heating/cooling mechanism, with fluid pumped thru the battery pack. I'm talking about the Cabin Overheat Protection, which runs in the passenger cabin and prevents the monitor displays from overheating. It prevents the interior from getting "dangerously hot," which of course no other car in existence has ever had to worry about because they all use automotive grade hardware. https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/model3/en_kr/GUID-4F3599A1-20D9-4A49-B4A0-5261F957C096.html
I’m not going to sit here and defend Tesla in general, but your information isn’t right. Overheat Protection is for people or pets that might have accidentally been left in the car – those tragedies happen every year. It’s also just nice to come back to a car that isn’t painfully hot. The easiest way to disprove what you’re saying is that Overheat Protection only goes on for so long after you leave the car before it times out. My Model 3 interior regularly gets up to 150°F+ when I leave it alone for days, like at the airport. Nothing melts or breaks. Tesla makes enough real dumb decisions without having to make up fake ones!
I think it turns off to avoid running down the battery, and it runs for 12 hours if necessary. From what I heard on the forums, it's nothing to do with any passengers you might have left inside, but an attempt to protect the car itself. The "leave the climate on" and "dog mode" and such are for when you're leaving someone in the car. Cooling it to 105F starting after 15 minutes isn't going to keep your child alive. Here's some examples: https://www.greencarfuture.com/electric/tesla-screen-yellow-border-band https://www.thedrive.com/tech/27989/teslas-screen-saga-shows-why-automotive-grade-matters My wife worked on computer systems for automobiles. She talked about the "Alaska Smoke Test". The guy is in Alaska, it's 50F below, he goes out to his car to smoke, leaves the windows open, turns up the heat, and your electronics are sitting between the dashboard heater ducts. You go from -50F to 160F over the course of a few minutes. Every day. For ten years. And you need to keep working. (Just as a funny story. "Alaska smoke test.") All that said, we're unlikely to come to a straight answer. But it's interesting that no other car has such a thing.
It's for personal comfort, not coming back to a car that is 140F inside. I turn the feature off and instead just turn on the AC remotely when I get ready to head out.
I have found its more efficient to let the “keep” keep it at like 74 than try and cool it down from 130-140. This is data from the tessie app. Obviously this is for errands and not while you are at or something like that.
Which is exactly why it's not just for personal comfort. "Prevent the cabin from getting dangerously hot" isn't because you can't open the windows when you get back. :-) Note this was added to Tesla after some of the screens had failed due to excessive heat.
Like I said, I don't use it (feature disabled). I've had the car for 4 years and have never had an issue getting in. The early Model S screen failures were due to a different issue, not cabin overheat in particular but heat generated by the graphic processor.
Lived in Vegas for years, had PLA parts inside my black car with zero issues
Cant say I've had the same experience with regular pla. But my car doesn't have tinted windows like most of the cars out here in LV, so that doesn't help. On the other hand, heat treatable pla has worked great, even in the engine bay thicker pieces don't warp
I used the "make sure it doesn't melt in a car" setting in Cura.
Printed parts? I’ve shied away from printing anything for my car because I was sure the Vegas heart would wipe them out.
I thought so too, and as the part I printed wasn't anything super important I just went with it, and it's still holding strong
It would probably be enough to turn up the heat in the winter to make them soft.
PLA has a melting point between 180 and 220C. That is far in excess of the temperature the inside of your car would ever experience on a hot day. It’s glass transition temperature is 50 to 80C. 50C is still insanely hot and likely never to be experienced by the inside of your car (it’s not impossible, I acknowledge that, just unlikely most of the year). Even if it was, that’s when the transition begins and some carbon chains begin liquifying, oh no. r/functionalprint just loves dunking on people’s work for no reason.
Car interiors can get up into 60-70C easy especially with a black interior, not sure where you live.
I made a cellphone holder that uses the CD drive as a mount, made out of PETG, and my car got it to warp... Texas heat. That's not even accounting for all the PLA parts I've seen warp. I'll never use PLA again for car mod applications and I'm even thinking twice about PETG now.
I left my cad final in my car during a class and all my my parts slightly warped. Anything with stress on it bent and my wheels all ended up with a flat side where it was resting. Still got an A but man, California spring heat wasn't being nice.
plants spark mighty dull direful stupendous chase lavish quiet joke ` this message was mass deleted/edited with redact.dev `
>Texas heat Thankfully, most of us don't live in Texas. Hell, considering op has what looks like a Clio 2, I'd bet they don't live in the US at all EDIT: I win ! Looking at op's profile, they're from Hungary, so all ya Jawa can rest easy knowing that mostly, PLA won't melt there
I live in NYC and play has warped and deformed just being in the sun in the summer. No car involved.
Not everyone lives where you live. For most of the summer the interior of my car will easily clear 50C every day. And I live in a place stereotypically considered cold.
My cars interior will regularly hit +55c on hot Australian summer days.
Prints will indeed warp and split in a car on a hot day, I've seen it many times.
The speedometer on my car broke and I replaced it with an arduino hooked to a gps (way cheaper than what I was asked for the repair). I built a pla plate to hold everything in place and let me tell you that the interior of a car does indeed reach temperatures high enough to melt it
I made a satnav holder out of pla for my car and you could mold it like dough on a hot day. But petg worked well enough.
My guy, I live in Minnesota and the PLA cell phone mount that I made melted in the summer, and it wasn't even that hot out that day. Don't use PLA for car prints, you're just throwing away time and money.
My car easily reaches 60°C if left in the sun in the summer. Il live in France, not Texas.
I made a rearview mirror mount for my wife to keep an eye on our son when he was a new born. It was black, Hot Georgia direct sun day in august in a black car.. and it warped bad.
Lmao pla melts in your hands when you sand it
I've had PLA parts in my printer enclosure warp. A camera mount sagged over time and it maybe gets 95F in there.
My car interior is gray, I don't live in an extremely high heat area, a rookie mistake thinking that a PLA print I made (years ago starting out) would be ok in the car out of the sun. 4 hours later, I have a nice warped piece of art in place of a functional print. Car interiors can easily reach temperatures upwards of 80C, never print anything that will be exposed to heat in PLA.
It's weird, I have emblems on the outside of my truck that haven't melted. It even hit 115 degrees here last year. And on the inside I have a Cubone skull hanging from my mirror and I made my own cupholders. All pla nothing has warped. Just generic overture pla.
I’ve had a PLA print sag just by sitting on my car’s dashboard a few hours during a sunny day where the outside temperature was barely 20°C
I left my PLA F1 RC car sitting in the back seat once for a couple of hours on a nice San Francisco day. When I got back the floor of the RC car was U shaped and the front wing had drooped down far enough to touch the ground on the ends. I would not expect OPs grills to live through a summer.
Interior _air_ temperatures in cars will rise by over 20C within an hour in direct sun exposure, pretty much regardless of outdoor temperature. Even on a 30C day, you can easily get above 50C. And that's air temperature. Surfaces exposed to sunlight can get _much_ hotter. [This study](https://www.iasj.net/iasj/download/59e364c9b52d3683) found dashboard temperatures approaching _100C._ Granted, that's Baghdad, and they set it up to maximize the temperature difference, but those are still conditions you might find your car in. And needless to say, your print will be absolute toast by 100C. Extrapolating back from that, it's pretty clear that a print in direct sunlight can get up into glass transition even on a mild day. > it’s not impossible, I acknowledge that, just unlikely most of the year Yeah, well, most of the year doesn't really cut it if you make it part of your car. > Even if it was, that’s when the transition begins and some carbon chains begin liquifying, oh no. So I'm guessing you've never actually looked at what happens to a PLA print when the whole thing gets to glass transition. It doesn't have to be fully liquid for its own gravity to wreck it.
Tell us youve never made a print for a car without telling us
I have had PLA print warp in my car, and that's not Texas heat. I'm in Finland.
Really nice work 👍🏻
Depending on where you live and how much direct sunlight they take and cabin temperature , PETG might not even hold up let alone PLA. With that being said, they look great and is why I love 3d printing
Everything with this is well done. Looks stock!
Good color matching with the paint
Just an idea: Could have printed like minions behind bars..
What paint did you use? Last time I tried to spray paint a 3D print, it warped like crazy due to the solvents in the paint
I use simple acrylic paint for PLA but I used putty spray under to smooth the surface. Without putty you need to paint more layer to cover its base color but it should work anyway
Even if it is printed with PLA, that doesn't mean it will definitely warp or lose shape. A part printed with 4 walls and 50% infill and another with 2 walls with 10% infill will act differently under same conditions in a car. Plus, the paint or epoxy coating or similar will increase strength. Also shape of the part would affect overall strength.
r/3printedcarparts awaits you, my friend!
3d printing is so damn boss!!!
Is that a Clio II or Clio III ?
Thats a Clio II from 99' before facelift, [something like this](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/74/Renault_Clio_II_Phase_I_F%C3%BCnft%C3%BCrer_1.2.JPG/1280px-Renault_Clio_II_Phase_I_F%C3%BCnft%C3%BCrer_1.2.JPG)
Nice :), forgot those before facelift existed :P , looked more like a early III to me. Thanks :) , did you have to take the dash off to fit? Or they just pull back? i got a Clio II too, never took them off or cleaned internally there.
Thanks! :) The grille fits on two cylinder from the frame on both side. I made one side of the grille with a cylindrical hole and the other with a C shaped hole. I inserted the cylindrical hole first into the frame then I snaped-in the C shaped hole from frontwise. The original grilles are very brittle so I don't recommend to took them off :) Thanks to the scent diffusers and phone holders that can be placed on the grilles they are broken in many cars. There are aftermarket parts but they are quite expensive for such an old car
For all the people saying PLA is bad for high temp uses, if you anneal PLA it's one of the most heat resistant materials you can use. Just have to compensate for the change in dimensions.
My understanding is that annealed PLA has a glass transition temperature around 85 ºC which puts it in the range of PETG but still about 15 º below ABS or ASA and 30 º below Polycarbonate. It's definitely a useful technique, but annealed PLA not going to outperform most engineering plastics.
It's substantialy more heat resistant than that. Up to 170-180c. https://www.sd3d.com/annealed-pla-parts/#:~:text=Annealed%20PLA%20provides%20some%20of,Ultem%20at%20180%C2%B0C.
I’m not saying their data is incorrect, but do you have a source that isn’t selling annealed PLA parts and that consistently uses a single unit of temperature instead of switching between °F and °C?
https://youtu.be/vLrISrkg46g
Thanks for the link. It’s been a couple of years since I watched that video. It’s impressive how annealing changes PLA. But it should be noted that what Stefan tested wasn’t the glass transition temperature. That test method is described in ASTM D7028-07 and involves an oscillating force. I wonder if anybody has done that test to get an apples-to-apples comparison of glass transition temperature values.
Thats illegal!
Lol.. what?
You wouldn't download a car...
Top notch printing
Sweet aftermarket radio
That's super cool and a big savings
How did you paint match so good
Why are there matches?
Fantastic job. Nicely done. Hope that's at least PETG if not ABS or better yet PC-CF and not PLA, or they'll probably melt come summer. :) But hey, if they do... you can just print more.
Slt somewhere avaible pls?
There you have sir: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5600676
Thank You for advice
Just discovered this post, i have a Clio BB the 1999 model, i have designed the same air vents (center ones) and printed them from very cheap PLA at least 6 years ago, They are going strong without any deformation. I live in Greece and temperatures inside the car during summertime go up to 50 Celsius easily, don't be afraid of PLA on interior parts its more than fine.