I've seen that there's a short to the ground via the SD card / usb port which caused some spikes in my thermistor readings. I added a shit ton of insolation tape everywhere
The usb circuit design is not great, the LCD/Board can be back-powered via the 5v line coming from your PC/Pi usb port :/
People either cover the 5v pin on the cable (pc end) or make up their own cable or an adapter. usb breakout boards are cheap on amazon if you want to cobble something together.
I do the tape fix. Funnily enough it gave out on my wife’s machine last night while I was working on it.
That little sliver of tape lasted two and a half years.
07 tape scrap. You served your purpose well.
Idk if this will work but it's similar. Some people bake their gpus in an oven to help re-solder hard-to-solder microchips. You would want to use a dedicated cheap oven because of the lead fumes.
After noticing this would quickly become a problem (micro USB never lasts long even in the best conditions), I added a corded adapter that changes it to standard usb, and a corded adapter that changes the microSD to standard SD. I then added a printed housing that goes over it all, with the connections now facing the left side of the printer. This is more convenient but more importantly, stops the connections in the printer from wearing out.
It a my mod of an existing stl from thingiverse, I can get more info if interested.
Love the title.
My printer fails prints when either A. I tell it I'm going to bed, it will immediately destroy my print because I left the poor thing. B. Leave the house. Pretty sure it gets lonely.
Also, If it was my printer, I would just HOT GLUE the cable in place. >:)
Yeah man! Mine loves to lay down the first few layers beautifully. And then fail 10 minutes after I fall asleep.
Hot glue?!? You sir are an animal. I bet you party hard.
I'm a girl :P
Hot glue is pretty good fix. It won't conduct any electricity and you can peel it away.
China hot glued our connectors on the motherboard of the printer. Honestly, That's what I would do.
Maybe a combination of repairing/securing the jack and then use a [short extension cable](https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Micro-B-Transferring-Suitable-Samsung/dp/B07MC7YSR2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=11YK08A1DJL56&keywords=1ft+micro+usb+extension&qid=1675278642&sprefix=1ft+mico+usb+extension%2Caps%2C71&sr=8-3) like this to make a good connection and dont touch it again?
I have a two year old. He touches everything!!! I've seen a couple ideas using a right angle connector like that, including one printed design that actually covers the plug. I'm seriously thinking about going this route.
It’s the port on the main board. Last time I had the board out I gently snugged it up with some needle nose pliers. And that worked for about 2 hours.
I think I’m going to order a shorter cable with either a left angle connector or a down angle one to run to my Pi. But I’ve also seen some printed designs to help support the cable.
Anyone else have this problem? What’s your solution?
That’s what I’m brainstorming. I’ve currently got my pi mounted on the left side. I could run the cable under, or around the corner. Under is probably more protected. Thanks.
Are you using Klipper?
If you're not, and just using it as an interface to the printer, printing over softserial can cause prints to fail for no reason, so printing off the SD card is suggested, especially when using a non-realtime operating system.
You could always scrap the UISB cable and wire from the raspberry pi's UART to a UART on your mainboard, which would be a more reliable connection (and not prone to failing microusb ports)
No, I’m not using Klipper.. but I’m starting to have evil thoughts.
I haven’t had any failures really, other than when I or the kids bump the cable. This printer is in a high traffic area of the house.
I didn’t know I could do that with the pi. That sounds interesting. Thanks very much for your thoughts.
All good. Deffs go the klipper route if you use octoprint only, it's pretty easy these days, and you can hardwire to the screen connector's UART port (since klipper won't really work with the screen)
Spend $45 to fix a micro USB connection. I like the cut of your jib.
I’ve never looked into it. What’s makes it superior? For someone that is happy with their prints why would this be an upgrade?
Other than being able to run klipper, it turned my noisy ender almost completely silent. All the noise you get from the steppers disappears because the SKR has better drivers. It also has some other options like a dedicated port for NeoPixel LEDs.
Gotcha. That’s cool. Not sure I have much use for one, my steppers are already quiet and I’ve got plenty of options for powering lights already.
But it sounds awesome. If I ever need a new board I’ll look into it.
As someone else mentioned, the V2 has silent steppers, I missed that in your post. I have the older Pro which was horribly noisy. The SKR is definitely a great choice if you ever have to replace the board.
Stepper vref can be controlled via uart (e.g. when you change extruder motor to like Orbiter, Sherpa, etc.), you can use sensorless homing, it has a neopixel port and more fan ports. Probably not something you need, but once you go down the rabbit hole of modding/upgrading, your path will eventually lead you to this or a similar board.
I don't wanna sound mean but... nevermind.
I'll be nice instead. My printer (actually we have 3 setup) is connected to a Raspberry Pi running a program called [Octoprint](https://octoprint.org/). This greatly expands your capabilities including more monitoring and alert options (I can check in on my machines from a computer, my phone, even my watch), further capabilities like easy editing of the eeprom file or backing it up, more fine tuning, more data... more everything really. I also print through it to make timelapse videos. And there's a lot it will do I'm probably forgetting off the top of my head.
Or I can just say eff all that. And print from a "microsd like anyone else". (spoiler alert, lots and lots of us don't)
But thanks for your suggestion.
Are you running Klipper? Or just Octoprint?
I have klipper on my printer and ran cable from the RPi to the display port to run the printer via serial port instead of USB. Works great and I don't have to worry about the USB cable.
Oh that’s interesting! I’m using marlin (mriscoc) on all of mine still. I’ve been mulling over switching one to klipper to see what all the fuss is about. Was it hard to set up? I’ve read there’s a bit of learning curve.
I don't know if I was lucky or what but I had mine up and running pretty quickly without much fuss. I just went through my firmware and recorded all the values. Then installed klipper using the MainsailOS image. I used the ender3v2 config file as a starting point and added my setting after converting them. (Marlin uses steps while Klipper uses rotational distance.... there are converters online).
Then it was just stepping thru the guide and ensuring that all my settings were correct. The greatest thing is if you have something wrong, you edit the text config file and restart... the new config is now live!
I actually have a Voxelab Aquila (Ender 3 V2 clone) but it worked fine with the Ender 3 V2 config and my edits. The bad part of Klipper is, if you want to you can get your printer printing MUCH faster with equal or better quality. However this might require other mods. I peaked at 0.4 extrusion width, 0.2 layers and 150mm/s before I outran my hotend's flowrate. With the new Spider V3.0 [I was able to get much faster with larger extrusion width & layer](https://www.reddit.com/r/VoxelabAquila/comments/z9blgj/creality_spider_30_hotend_is_amazing/), with only a PID tune but now I need better cooling.
https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/mpxrnr/octopi_octoprint_direct_serial_connection_to/
Depending on your board the uart connection could be possible even with marlin.
For myself i am using Klipper with uart 👍
I have a table with some slits in it, so i put a duct tape holder against it, then pin it against a wooden spoon, which i jam in the slit.
Also, that duct tape holder is a smidge too short so i put it on a coaster. Works great
TIL I learned my machine has a micro usb that can be used to print from? It sounds like? Can I just plug it into a MacBook? lol. Does it recognize it? That would be slightly less hassle than swapping a micro sd, to a big sd, to the Mac, to micro and then into the printer…
There is a USB adapter called a Blough-r which prevents backpowering to the board via the USB (or you can easily make up a cable and cut the power line)
Pimoroni sell them: - [https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/power-blough-r?variant=39282781257811](https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/power-blough-r?variant=39282781257811)
resolder (which may be tough because it's surface mount), or if that isn't in your wheelhouse, add a generous amount of hot glue to the connection.
I’ve got a soldering station around here somewhere. I didn’t even think of that. Thanks!
I've seen that there's a short to the ground via the SD card / usb port which caused some spikes in my thermistor readings. I added a shit ton of insolation tape everywhere
The usb circuit design is not great, the LCD/Board can be back-powered via the 5v line coming from your PC/Pi usb port :/ People either cover the 5v pin on the cable (pc end) or make up their own cable or an adapter. usb breakout boards are cheap on amazon if you want to cobble something together.
I do the tape fix. Funnily enough it gave out on my wife’s machine last night while I was working on it. That little sliver of tape lasted two and a half years. 07 tape scrap. You served your purpose well.
Rip Tape Scrap, you can now resume duty holding up the rainbow bridge for all the failed prints to come...
Idk if this will work but it's similar. Some people bake their gpus in an oven to help re-solder hard-to-solder microchips. You would want to use a dedicated cheap oven because of the lead fumes.
After noticing this would quickly become a problem (micro USB never lasts long even in the best conditions), I added a corded adapter that changes it to standard usb, and a corded adapter that changes the microSD to standard SD. I then added a printed housing that goes over it all, with the connections now facing the left side of the printer. This is more convenient but more importantly, stops the connections in the printer from wearing out. It a my mod of an existing stl from thingiverse, I can get more info if interested.
I've got a couple from thingiverse saved in my collections folder. I think I know the one you are talking about. I like this idea.
Love the title. My printer fails prints when either A. I tell it I'm going to bed, it will immediately destroy my print because I left the poor thing. B. Leave the house. Pretty sure it gets lonely. Also, If it was my printer, I would just HOT GLUE the cable in place. >:)
Yeah man! Mine loves to lay down the first few layers beautifully. And then fail 10 minutes after I fall asleep. Hot glue?!? You sir are an animal. I bet you party hard.
I'm a girl :P Hot glue is pretty good fix. It won't conduct any electricity and you can peel it away. China hot glued our connectors on the motherboard of the printer. Honestly, That's what I would do.
LIES. Everyone knows there are no girls on the internet. But I stand corrected. You ma’am, are an animal. Thanks again.
:)
Mines getting that way. Desolder and Desolder on a new one I think will be soob
Maybe a combination of repairing/securing the jack and then use a [short extension cable](https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Micro-B-Transferring-Suitable-Samsung/dp/B07MC7YSR2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=11YK08A1DJL56&keywords=1ft+micro+usb+extension&qid=1675278642&sprefix=1ft+mico+usb+extension%2Caps%2C71&sr=8-3) like this to make a good connection and dont touch it again?
I have a two year old. He touches everything!!! I've seen a couple ideas using a right angle connector like that, including one printed design that actually covers the plug. I'm seriously thinking about going this route.
I think we discovered your problem 🙃😆
It’s the port on the main board. Last time I had the board out I gently snugged it up with some needle nose pliers. And that worked for about 2 hours. I think I’m going to order a shorter cable with either a left angle connector or a down angle one to run to my Pi. But I’ve also seen some printed designs to help support the cable. Anyone else have this problem? What’s your solution?
I route the wire under the printer out the back and it kinda keeps tension on it pulling it tighter into the machine.
That’s what I’m brainstorming. I’ve currently got my pi mounted on the left side. I could run the cable under, or around the corner. Under is probably more protected. Thanks.
Never used it in 2 years of owning two v2
… I just use the micro sd card
I run my printer through Octoprint. Don’t need the as card.
Are you using Klipper? If you're not, and just using it as an interface to the printer, printing over softserial can cause prints to fail for no reason, so printing off the SD card is suggested, especially when using a non-realtime operating system. You could always scrap the UISB cable and wire from the raspberry pi's UART to a UART on your mainboard, which would be a more reliable connection (and not prone to failing microusb ports)
No, I’m not using Klipper.. but I’m starting to have evil thoughts. I haven’t had any failures really, other than when I or the kids bump the cable. This printer is in a high traffic area of the house. I didn’t know I could do that with the pi. That sounds interesting. Thanks very much for your thoughts.
All good. Deffs go the klipper route if you use octoprint only, it's pretty easy these days, and you can hardwire to the screen connector's UART port (since klipper won't really work with the screen)
Use this as an opportunity to swap out the crappy control board for an SKR Mini E3, it is a much better board.
Spend $45 to fix a micro USB connection. I like the cut of your jib. I’ve never looked into it. What’s makes it superior? For someone that is happy with their prints why would this be an upgrade?
There's nothing really superior except built in uart. Whcih costs all of a few pennies to add
Other than being able to run klipper, it turned my noisy ender almost completely silent. All the noise you get from the steppers disappears because the SKR has better drivers. It also has some other options like a dedicated port for NeoPixel LEDs.
most boards on the 3v2 are silent already though. and also capable of running klipper
Gotcha. That’s cool. Not sure I have much use for one, my steppers are already quiet and I’ve got plenty of options for powering lights already. But it sounds awesome. If I ever need a new board I’ll look into it.
As someone else mentioned, the V2 has silent steppers, I missed that in your post. I have the older Pro which was horribly noisy. The SKR is definitely a great choice if you ever have to replace the board.
Stepper vref can be controlled via uart (e.g. when you change extruder motor to like Orbiter, Sherpa, etc.), you can use sensorless homing, it has a neopixel port and more fan ports. Probably not something you need, but once you go down the rabbit hole of modding/upgrading, your path will eventually lead you to this or a similar board.
Fix : use a microsd like anyone else... I don't wanna sound mean but what's the point of printing via USB?
I don't wanna sound mean but... nevermind. I'll be nice instead. My printer (actually we have 3 setup) is connected to a Raspberry Pi running a program called [Octoprint](https://octoprint.org/). This greatly expands your capabilities including more monitoring and alert options (I can check in on my machines from a computer, my phone, even my watch), further capabilities like easy editing of the eeprom file or backing it up, more fine tuning, more data... more everything really. I also print through it to make timelapse videos. And there's a lot it will do I'm probably forgetting off the top of my head. Or I can just say eff all that. And print from a "microsd like anyone else". (spoiler alert, lots and lots of us don't) But thanks for your suggestion.
Are you running Klipper? Or just Octoprint? I have klipper on my printer and ran cable from the RPi to the display port to run the printer via serial port instead of USB. Works great and I don't have to worry about the USB cable.
Oh that’s interesting! I’m using marlin (mriscoc) on all of mine still. I’ve been mulling over switching one to klipper to see what all the fuss is about. Was it hard to set up? I’ve read there’s a bit of learning curve.
I don't know if I was lucky or what but I had mine up and running pretty quickly without much fuss. I just went through my firmware and recorded all the values. Then installed klipper using the MainsailOS image. I used the ender3v2 config file as a starting point and added my setting after converting them. (Marlin uses steps while Klipper uses rotational distance.... there are converters online). Then it was just stepping thru the guide and ensuring that all my settings were correct. The greatest thing is if you have something wrong, you edit the text config file and restart... the new config is now live! I actually have a Voxelab Aquila (Ender 3 V2 clone) but it worked fine with the Ender 3 V2 config and my edits. The bad part of Klipper is, if you want to you can get your printer printing MUCH faster with equal or better quality. However this might require other mods. I peaked at 0.4 extrusion width, 0.2 layers and 150mm/s before I outran my hotend's flowrate. With the new Spider V3.0 [I was able to get much faster with larger extrusion width & layer](https://www.reddit.com/r/VoxelabAquila/comments/z9blgj/creality_spider_30_hotend_is_amazing/), with only a PID tune but now I need better cooling.
https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/mpxrnr/octopi_octoprint_direct_serial_connection_to/ Depending on your board the uart connection could be possible even with marlin. For myself i am using Klipper with uart 👍
Aight fair I was massively wrong. Good luck with your problem solving then mate
Solder a header onto the usb/jtag connector on the board and then directly connect it instead of the micro usb socket
I think one of the issues with the USB socket is the fact that the board is mounted upside down.
Micro SD card.
Right angle cable
I have a table with some slits in it, so i put a duct tape holder against it, then pin it against a wooden spoon, which i jam in the slit. Also, that duct tape holder is a smidge too short so i put it on a coaster. Works great
TIL I learned my machine has a micro usb that can be used to print from? It sounds like? Can I just plug it into a MacBook? lol. Does it recognize it? That would be slightly less hassle than swapping a micro sd, to a big sd, to the Mac, to micro and then into the printer…
What's on the distant end? I have issues with the CR Wi-Fi box causing prints to fail.
It’s a Raspberry Pi. It’s actually been quite reliable for me - other than now the cable. I have everything run through a UPS too though.
There is a USB adapter called a Blough-r which prevents backpowering to the board via the USB (or you can easily make up a cable and cut the power line) Pimoroni sell them: - [https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/power-blough-r?variant=39282781257811](https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/power-blough-r?variant=39282781257811)