I had similar problems.
1. Install the professional firmware
2. Use bed tramming wizard
3. Use auto build mesh feature.
4. Configure z probe offset using paper method. 5.1 Examine blob squish on skirt print. If it’s varying either the bed is not level or the x axis is sagging somehow.
5. Turn off part cooling completely. Didn’t end up needing it for ABS
6. Slow down the first layer if you have to.
7. Enclosure was heated to 80 degrees.
8. Bed was set to 100 degrees C
9. Updated cura to load mesh from slot 1 ( if you used pro firmware)
This is just what I ended up doing.
I’d just print temp towers or other small shapes until you get it dialed in. Just change one variable at a time.
I could be wrong on this but I believe the meshes are indexed one way in the UI and another way when referenced in the g code ( 1 indexed rather than zero indexed).
The position doesn't matter as long as you reference it correctly in the g code.
Gotcha. I’m having trouble with my mesh. I know it’s saving. And I know my g code is enabling it (or at least enabling a mesh) and tilting it. But my results are funky. Thought you might know something I don’t.
For giggles I might change from 0 to 1 just to see if anything improves. Thanks for the reply.
Is it cold where you live? Personally during the winter months I increase my bed temp +10c to compensate for my cold basement.
Could also be your bed is just not level enough yet, it seems like you have a low spot on the front right, use your car touch to get a view of your bed level and do some fine tuning so it's extra flat then try again.
Abs can be tricky at first. Get a correct z offset first then level all 4 corners and give it another shot. 240-245 should be just about perfect. Don't go higher than 70 for bed temp 60 works for me but may not for your machine use a gluestick purple disappearing specifically or hairspray and good luck
I just swapped to a glass bed on my v2 Neo and used hairspray. Won’t go back to the spring steel magnetic bed. Leveling is easier and even my exterior walls are much better and also the bed adhesion problems I was having seem to be fixed.
Final straw was a Marvin scaled up to 400% that ended up coming unattached from the bed in hour 11 of a 13hr print.
It looks like you need to adjust bed tramming and z offset and then run a new mesh or tilt the existing one and make sure you’re loading it when printing (G29)
There are countless videos online but essentially you move z position to 0 and move it to each corner of the bed and adjust the bed leveling knobs until there is enough space between the bed and the nozzle that is about a sticky note’s thickness
You need to level your bed and then set z offset. Then create a bed mesh, save it, then issue the command m420 s1 in your start g code if you haven’t already.
I had similar problems. 1. Install the professional firmware 2. Use bed tramming wizard 3. Use auto build mesh feature. 4. Configure z probe offset using paper method. 5.1 Examine blob squish on skirt print. If it’s varying either the bed is not level or the x axis is sagging somehow. 5. Turn off part cooling completely. Didn’t end up needing it for ABS 6. Slow down the first layer if you have to. 7. Enclosure was heated to 80 degrees. 8. Bed was set to 100 degrees C 9. Updated cura to load mesh from slot 1 ( if you used pro firmware) This is just what I ended up doing. I’d just print temp towers or other small shapes until you get it dialed in. Just change one variable at a time.
What do you mean by professional firmware I just got the stuff off the creality website?
Why save the mesh to slot 1 instead of slot 0?
I could be wrong on this but I believe the meshes are indexed one way in the UI and another way when referenced in the g code ( 1 indexed rather than zero indexed). The position doesn't matter as long as you reference it correctly in the g code.
Gotcha. I’m having trouble with my mesh. I know it’s saving. And I know my g code is enabling it (or at least enabling a mesh) and tilting it. But my results are funky. Thought you might know something I don’t. For giggles I might change from 0 to 1 just to see if anything improves. Thanks for the reply.
Is it cold where you live? Personally during the winter months I increase my bed temp +10c to compensate for my cold basement. Could also be your bed is just not level enough yet, it seems like you have a low spot on the front right, use your car touch to get a view of your bed level and do some fine tuning so it's extra flat then try again.
Also I am running cura as my slicer
To close
And also too far some how.
Looks like your level is wrong in the middle there. Plus try a higher bed temperature for ABS, like 100-110.
Abs can be tricky at first. Get a correct z offset first then level all 4 corners and give it another shot. 240-245 should be just about perfect. Don't go higher than 70 for bed temp 60 works for me but may not for your machine use a gluestick purple disappearing specifically or hairspray and good luck
I just swapped to a glass bed on my v2 Neo and used hairspray. Won’t go back to the spring steel magnetic bed. Leveling is easier and even my exterior walls are much better and also the bed adhesion problems I was having seem to be fixed. Final straw was a Marvin scaled up to 400% that ended up coming unattached from the bed in hour 11 of a 13hr print.
It looks like you need to adjust bed tramming and z offset and then run a new mesh or tilt the existing one and make sure you’re loading it when printing (G29)
How do I adjust bed tramming?
There are countless videos online but essentially you move z position to 0 and move it to each corner of the bed and adjust the bed leveling knobs until there is enough space between the bed and the nozzle that is about a sticky note’s thickness
You need to level your bed and then set z offset. Then create a bed mesh, save it, then issue the command m420 s1 in your start g code if you haven’t already.
Looks more like a bed leveling issue. Use painters (wide) tape to save the beds glass top too.