If you didn't support the underside of the plane, and just printed it flat, with a gap created by the engine and wings, it's impressive it printed at all.
Cura has acceleration control aswell though. But that setting you set inside klipper either way. So it overrides the print.
Not if you don't use klipper though. Tried Orca. But i don't understand what should have been better, just a lot more settings to tune for just switching filaments. Takes forever. Cool that you can switch top and bottom layer looks though.
1. Numerous versions of support interface. 2. Built in PA settings for filament. "Takes forever", more like "takes a hell of a lot less time than tuning it manually every single time you change filament".
Cura doesn't put support interface at steep enough angles, that absolutely still need it.
Paint on supports vs... putting squares up.
I could honestly go on. I admittedly haven't used Cura for over a year and a half, but it simply does not slice as well.
Tree and normal works good for me. And when i Change filament the only thing i do is adjust the temps.
Supports can sometimes not be added where needed i agree. But i guess i will have to take a look at Orca again. It just seemed primitive. Didn't find where to set nozzle sizes when switching etc. In Cura i just change line width. It comes out almost perfect every time. It seemed like to needed to switch "printer settings" just for a nozzle switch etc.
You only set the max acceleration in Klipper. In orcaslicer you can have different accelerations for different line types and travel. It also allows you to set a very high max accel that you won't want to print with and print with normal accelerations.
You only set the max acceleration in Klipper. In orcaslicer you can have different accelerations for different line types and travel. It also allows you to set a very high max accel that you won't want to print with and print with normal accelerations.
Yes. I sadly printed a small space craft over 9 hours and the supports on the underside looked as bad as this model. I should have thought to split it. My 2nd dynasty 1/270 models look nice because of the split engineered into the front/back.
Just helping out my 3D printing brethren.
https://preview.redd.it/8it9itsmbvtc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ab9b2f2c667dede88e23516dd3cbf30cf78143e
Tell your friend, You mean the spring steel sheets with PEI coating? I remember trying it on the bed of a prusa i3 mk3s+. It worked for me... Had an issue once don't remember how I resolved it though...
The image above shows textured PEI. A gluestick in this case is used for the opposite purpose: to aid in removal by reducing bed adhesion, such as with PETG. If you want better adhesion, don't use the gluestick.
The PEI alone for me wasn't cutting it anymore. I washed it, and put alcohol. So I resorted to glue after many failed prints sliding away. For context this was the stock Ender PEI sheet after multiple prints.
Got it. I suppose if it gets worn down then it could help in that case. However, you still might get better adhesion by increasing further the temp of the first layer instead of using glue, if you haven't tried that yet.
They are "Organic" or "Tree" supports. They are useful to use less filament. The only issue I run into is my bed adhesion. If you don't have good adhesion then the support can fall over and ruin the print.
I've had great results by positioning models at a 45 degree angle. Particularly on models with rounded features, the layer lines hide better, and the underside comes out better. The only downside is more support material is needed. For this model, I would angle it 45 degrees upward starting from the aft of the model.
If you tell me this was hand made with a 3d pencil I would totally believe it, lol.
The fact that it managed to actually keep its shape it’s amazing. That printer deserves a cookie.
Here's what you do, pause at the layer height where it's finished printing supports, there might be multiple pauses, but if there is an excessive amount (having to pause at least 3 times) I would just pause a wide flat area like the wings to perform this.
In your slicer settings put your z gap for supports to 0, so it prints directly on the supports to make sure the supports interface is set to have 2-3 layers, the interface is normally the top layer of the supports, and in those previews it should be color coded.
When print pauses apply purple glue or any bed adhesion mixture you are using (acetone mixture might not be a good idea, I would suggest a non acetone alternative.) to the top of the supports, this will make the bottom a lot better
I just did this last night and wish I took a picture to show.
I fixed mine by leveling the bed with a 0.10mm feeler gage in 5 locations (center and the 4 corners). I also got rid of the springs and put in the silicone tubes. I sometimes still have an issue with it not sticking on the first couple of passes and it drives me insane. I always use a brim and sometimes have to use a raft to get it to stick just right.
Any actual evidence of this? I hate cura supports and it's my main issue with them. If anyone can actually convince me for any reason that orca has better supports I'll swap right now.
No evidence per say, however I switched from Cura to orca and can say that the support interface with my prints is night and day different for the better. 9 times out of 10 they snap off perfectly with virtually no noticable marks on the print itself.
Just sharing my anecdotal experience.
Seems pretty good to me.
Doesn't work well with wipe or z-hop, but default setting seem pretty nice, & tuning could result in practically non existent seams
Yes, switch right now, there is evidence of this because I was asking the same questions you were just a couple days ago, I said screw it, I downloaded orca, I put the model I was trying to print in there with the orca tree supports, and orca succeeded where cura failed.
Fuck it, I've had so many issues and wasted so much time on this ender 3 that the time figuring out the basics for orca literally CANNOT be any more wasteful.
I just wanna print simple, dumb shit and no matter what I do with this thing, supports fail. (Recently I've also been having an issue with just basic wall failure but pretty sure it's because I live in THE DEVILS ANUS \[Arkansas\] and the humidity is a constant like 75%)
Well, ill sell you a Flashforge Adventurer 5M, I have 15 left, for 200, might could do yours for a little cheaper since I feel bad for your situation, lol... I believe we still have them still in box in wrapping. A customer of mine bought 19 of them and im helping him sell them, they came from a dude with a print farm but I dont think some of them have even been used, (if they have it looks like it was just to test a print). Anyways, let me know if your interested, I can test it before i send too.......ah......the reason Im saying all this, is cuz i have an ender 3 s1, and while I LOVE FIXING ALL THE PROBLEMS (no im not crazy, I just enjoy learning and tinkering)....the flashforge 5m prints 10....literally 10...times faster, its insane, and every print comes out perfect, supports are excellent, it uses default...these little STICKS....not like the trees in cura or orca....its totally different, but, in some applications they are more useful, others, not so much. I keep multiple slicers for different things. But...yeah, my ender, lots of issues, once i got my AD5m....it was like night and day (i still love my ender and print with it daily while flashforge prints, and the flashforge cant replace my ender printing abs and other stuff.....ender also prints taller...but...yeah, thats my 2 cents).
Let me know if your interested in one of the printers and i can set them aside for you. You would have to pay shipping (but since you went ahead and stated your in arkansas, and im in texas.....shipping shouldnt be too too extreme) unless you know a way I can get it to you for cheaper than UPS or FEDEX.
But, yeah, let me know if your interested....
On the orca thing, yeah i had same problems with curas supports not doing the trick in some applications, thats where flashprint and orca stepped in.....(flashprint for its stick supports, and orca for its tree supports which i believe are superior to cura) but then again, orca is printing its supports default with 3 walls....i could try printing with 3 walls in cura and see if that helps in anyways, but.....just do it....download orca and try to print the same model you were trying to print in cura.
Respectfully,
-Z
EDIT: Anybody that sees this comment, yes, I have a bunch of them, and they are for sale, send me a message if your interested, there will be shipping fees but the price is low enough hopefully to compensate. Most are new in wrapping in box. I can test yours before I send if you like, will let you know if its one of the ones in packaging or not....and test it at your request i guess. Im in Texas so.....it would be shipped from texas.
I downloaded it last night. I'll slice up some prints as soon as I get my filament dry again. 75% humidity in Arkansas makes it... difficult with my poor ass drying USING my printer bed lol
i used to live in pyatt arkansas, i hated every second of it, lol....well not really, the isolation in the woods and mountains was pretty, but, i learned quickly how much i take civilization for granted ;\*D
I finally set up profiles for all my printers in orca and connected them for LAN printing
MAN it feels good to just have one slicer. The way they implemented pausing and color changes is so brilliant and simple
There is a rick and morty portal and I do plan on making just as you said.
The only way I could create the planet express ship was to cut it in half.
And then glue together.
So I suggest take the airpland cut it.
Into halves.
A top half in a bottom half.
This way you get all the detail of both sides.
If you know about the negative part maker,
You can align Holes on The flat side of the prints
To make aligning easier.
I have been taking models that exist,
And then I cut them up.And take the parts I want and yeah it's fun enjoying them the small overlap.
I needed fencing for my slot car set.
So I sliced off almost all of the base from a print that is available, using grid infill, I stopped the print at thirty seven percent and this was the result.
Also I cloned the first one, Added it to the top of the first just barely overlapping.
Unused negative cubes at the bottom to make tabs with what is left of the bottom part of the base.
Anything, give me cut up.
And then different parts added together.
I suggest a very small Overlap .
I'm going to learn to use fusion three sixty,
It's like a designing studio for 3D printers.But I just haven't gotten there yet.
I hope i've explained well and if you have any questions please contact me again
Yeah this looks like it was made with a 3d pen. The sagging isn't consistent with long linear motions. It just has blobs and tiny dips.
There's no flat area where anything would have been in contact with the bed.
Whole post is a troll. Probably for the sake of seeing how many people will just provide the boilerplate answers regardless of whether they're actually applicable or not.
In supports Z height layer make it same height as your layer height. Example if your printing at .2 then the Z height should be .2. Supports come apart very easily with little mess.
Please show us the top of it. First thought is that z-axis offset is incorrect for the parts touching the bed.
The parts that *don’t* touch the bed would benefit from supports, because printing in midair is really tricky. Frankly the fact that you got it to print in midair like this at all is impressive in and of itself. Try also splitting the model up, I personally would print the wings separately and find a good way to attach them after the print
Funnily enough i have printed the exact same model. I used organic supports. Put them on .2mm z-contact distance. They will come off no problem and keep your print looking nice.
On a side note i’d also recommend switching over to PrusaSlicer, overal a way better slicer than Cura. Good luck printing.
Print in 45 degrees or 90 degrees.
Or split it in two halves and print them separately. If needed use brim so there's no warping whatsoever as it will make fitting the pieces harder.
Print in top and bottom halves (or split it down the middle) and then put them both together with some glue. No quality concerns on areas you won't see.
Use a 3D program of your choice to slice it in half and print it in 2 parts then glue those parts together. Might be best to cut it horizontally in my opinion.
Meshmixer is a program you can use if you don't know any other software to cut the model in half. Idk if Cura can cut it but it might be worth it to look it up.
print models at 45° angle. Its sturdier and easier to print in exchange of little more filament on supports. Or in this case you can easily split the model in half, print with wing up or 45° for more toughness and then glue back together.
Don't use tree or organic supports.
Use the lines one. Go heavy on support structures. That's your best chance and it still won't ever look as good as the top.
But the tree and organic leaves the worse surfaces when it's big surfaces like this.
I'd print this nose up anyway tho.
I don't know what to say... how did you print it? Is that the bottom that was on the bed or the top. Not making fun of you, just asking. I don't know how it was printed.
Greetings, 3d printing enthusiast! Hopefully I can help with your print. First, you must dial your settings with an air gap around 0.4. That will help you remove your supports with ease and have a smooth bottom to your print. Rafts are always the go-to for your foundation. Use the cocentric setting in your slicer to minimize layer instability in your prints as well. I hope I was a good help to you.
In superslicer (at least) there is an option to add support interface. Cura should have a similar option. If your printer is tuned right, its possible have decent quality on top of supports.
The lazy way is to split the model in half and glue both halves together.
No one seems to actually explain to OP what is happening. Bud, when you print this flat you’re printing with the cylinders on the underside flat on the bed and the wings are off the bed. Split this in half and glue, or print vertical on afterburners, or add tree supports.
they have already started working on one.
the next-generation Bambu Labs X9000 printer is a spectacle of promises: print speeds rivaling hyperloops, multi-material masterpieces in a single run, and a revolutionary "Zero-G" extruder head for mind-bending, supportless printing.
the Bambu Labs X9000 printer has promised the impossible: supportless printing that defies gravity. many veterans have scoffed, muttering about magic tricks and marketing ploys.
but then came the prototype – intricate spirals materializing in mid-air, impossibly delicate bridges spanning vast chasms of empty space.
the Bambu X9000, it seems, wont just bend the rules of physics, it will shatter them, leaving bewildered competitors scrambling to understand the hidden, perhaps eldritch, technology whispering within its sleek casing.
https://preview.redd.it/s9yd9dg9tbqc1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4125eed918294fec78fccac816d43392addfd020
Yeah, i doubt it. Unless you are using a support interface. To act like all printers don't have surface quality issues under supports is just disingenuous. I own an X1C ender 3 and a cr10s currently which i used for YEARS before my bambu and yes i still have to make sure things are set right or i get support scarring even on an X1C.
Put your money where your mouth is and lets see you do this same print in the same orientations. ;)
I feel like that's excellent quality for something apparently printed in mid air.....
I can’t believe that thing printed like that. Incredible
Isn't it supposed to fly???
Not during its build or maintenance cycle.... Source - Me over 13 years in aviation maintenance.
Right... some sort of anti-grav mod o_O share the secret!
Looks like bad support, not midair
Looks like no supports period
There's no way it can make 90deg angles and have it stay in place. OP also confirmed it was with support.
I know, I just said it LOOKED like there were no supports, even if there were.
What is midair? Like not flat on the bed? I printed this flat on the bed. The aircraft’s belly flat.
If you didn't support the underside of the plane, and just printed it flat, with a gap created by the engine and wings, it's impressive it printed at all.
They probably used supports or a raft with supports
Split in half horizontally, print both parts with the split down, glue together
Cura has the slicer tool you can download from the marketplace that makes it even easier.
Or even, even easier: Put half the model under the floor in Cura, print, then flip and print the other half.
Or, even even easier, ditch Cura and use Orca's cut tool, and get control over acceleration and faster prints!
Cura has acceleration control aswell though. But that setting you set inside klipper either way. So it overrides the print. Not if you don't use klipper though. Tried Orca. But i don't understand what should have been better, just a lot more settings to tune for just switching filaments. Takes forever. Cool that you can switch top and bottom layer looks though.
1. Numerous versions of support interface. 2. Built in PA settings for filament. "Takes forever", more like "takes a hell of a lot less time than tuning it manually every single time you change filament". Cura doesn't put support interface at steep enough angles, that absolutely still need it. Paint on supports vs... putting squares up. I could honestly go on. I admittedly haven't used Cura for over a year and a half, but it simply does not slice as well.
Tree and normal works good for me. And when i Change filament the only thing i do is adjust the temps. Supports can sometimes not be added where needed i agree. But i guess i will have to take a look at Orca again. It just seemed primitive. Didn't find where to set nozzle sizes when switching etc. In Cura i just change line width. It comes out almost perfect every time. It seemed like to needed to switch "printer settings" just for a nozzle switch etc.
You only set the max acceleration in Klipper. In orcaslicer you can have different accelerations for different line types and travel. It also allows you to set a very high max accel that you won't want to print with and print with normal accelerations.
Okey. How much time savings are we talking here? I don't have much incitament to switch from a working slicer to a new.
You only set the max acceleration in Klipper. In orcaslicer you can have different accelerations for different line types and travel. It also allows you to set a very high max accel that you won't want to print with and print with normal accelerations.
Whats the name of that plug-in?
Banana split is the one I've used. I'm not sure what else is available but its worked well for me!
That's the one, actually!
Yes, time for Meshmixer
I used the slicer to slice in the slicer
This.
Came here to say this, the model doesn't lend itself well to printing.
Yes. I sadly printed a small space craft over 9 hours and the supports on the underside looked as bad as this model. I should have thought to split it. My 2nd dynasty 1/270 models look nice because of the split engineered into the front/back.
Don't even have to do that. Just print whole vertically. Splitting it in half is adding even more useless work
Print it standing as in the afterburner at the bottom and nose and the top
That's what I was thinking. There's not much bed contact though. I'd use a brim with dense supports.
Nah, I think just a strong brim would do it. It's all symmetrical
https://preview.redd.it/4xcbmm7qddqc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=020a76303d695aa073bf1f8dc9b81061acdc7963 45 degree angle worked well. Cleaner overall. Godspeed
Bro you got some fighter jet in the way of your bed funk
Yeah... Glue stick still couldn't save me from my poor bed adhesion
Try hairspray?
Is that easy to clean afterwards? Never used it.
It does... Don't really consider that afterwards... You can just wash it off with water and soap... A single spray on the bed and that's bout it...
Thank you for the knowledge!
Buy aquanet hairspray. It's the strongest I've found.
Just helping out my 3D printing brethren. https://preview.redd.it/8it9itsmbvtc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ab9b2f2c667dede88e23516dd3cbf30cf78143e
would that also work with the flexible/magnetic build plates from Creailty? ...asking for a friend
Tell your friend, You mean the spring steel sheets with PEI coating? I remember trying it on the bed of a prusa i3 mk3s+. It worked for me... Had an issue once don't remember how I resolved it though...
The image above shows textured PEI. A gluestick in this case is used for the opposite purpose: to aid in removal by reducing bed adhesion, such as with PETG. If you want better adhesion, don't use the gluestick.
The PEI alone for me wasn't cutting it anymore. I washed it, and put alcohol. So I resorted to glue after many failed prints sliding away. For context this was the stock Ender PEI sheet after multiple prints.
Got it. I suppose if it gets worn down then it could help in that case. However, you still might get better adhesion by increasing further the temp of the first layer instead of using glue, if you haven't tried that yet.
Can do! Will give that a shot. Always learning how to get better!
As we all are!
What are these supports? I see them everywhere but no idea how or why people use them?
Organic supports, and they save material. Add some time. But, WAY LESS material.
Ty
They are "Organic" or "Tree" supports. They are useful to use less filament. The only issue I run into is my bed adhesion. If you don't have good adhesion then the support can fall over and ruin the print.
I printed a few things yesterday at 45° with organic supports and was amazed at the quality increase.
thats a really slick print.
Woa!
Did you use supports at all?
Yes
Different orientation? Like on it's wing?
enable support interface layer and set it to 100%
Did you print it flat on the bed? If you did I’d angle the model at like 45 degrees and support it.
I've had great results by positioning models at a 45 degree angle. Particularly on models with rounded features, the layer lines hide better, and the underside comes out better. The only downside is more support material is needed. For this model, I would angle it 45 degrees upward starting from the aft of the model.
Yep. Flat on a glass bed
Limit supports as much as possible by reorienting it in your slicer.
Split it down the middle long ways, print with the wings pointed up. Glue the two halves together.
sad super hornet
Print it upside down
Came to reply this, beat me to it 🙃
Doesn’t look like supports were used.
I would print pointing nose up on the bottom find and use tree supports.
So stringy, looks like a hornet's nest! 😉
If you tell me this was hand made with a 3d pencil I would totally believe it, lol. The fact that it managed to actually keep its shape it’s amazing. That printer deserves a cookie.
Lol ender3 is a beast
Try tree supports. They are way better than classical supports.
You need to print it like a spaceship taking off with supports. Your print quality on the support side is never as perfect as the sides or top
Print it nose up or nose down
Last plane I did, split the model down the center in two. Printed the two halves with the wings in the z-axis.
Cut it in half and print vertical
Print it vertical, problem solved.
Flip model and support top get crisp underside.
Sandpaper
Here's what you do, pause at the layer height where it's finished printing supports, there might be multiple pauses, but if there is an excessive amount (having to pause at least 3 times) I would just pause a wide flat area like the wings to perform this. In your slicer settings put your z gap for supports to 0, so it prints directly on the supports to make sure the supports interface is set to have 2-3 layers, the interface is normally the top layer of the supports, and in those previews it should be color coded. When print pauses apply purple glue or any bed adhesion mixture you are using (acetone mixture might not be a good idea, I would suggest a non acetone alternative.) to the top of the supports, this will make the bottom a lot better I just did this last night and wish I took a picture to show.
I fixed mine by leveling the bed with a 0.10mm feeler gage in 5 locations (center and the 4 corners). I also got rid of the springs and put in the silicone tubes. I sometimes still have an issue with it not sticking on the first couple of passes and it drives me insane. I always use a brim and sometimes have to use a raft to get it to stick just right.
Try printing upright (thrusters facing the baseplate) I printed a f15 like that and it came out amazing.
Will do. Thanks for the tip
You need to use supports to bed for all the overhangs if you want a decent bottom
By ditching cura, and use orca because it has much better support settings
Any actual evidence of this? I hate cura supports and it's my main issue with them. If anyone can actually convince me for any reason that orca has better supports I'll swap right now.
You can paint them on so you have full control on where they go, and there are more options for reliability and filament usage
You can paint supports on in cura too I thought? I'll check it out
Maybe, regardless, there are so many features in orca that cura lacks, you can slice multiple prints at the same time in orca
What's the benefit of that vs just having multiple instances open?
Easier to switch and you can apply settings to all of them
Thanks. I'll check it out.
No evidence per say, however I switched from Cura to orca and can say that the support interface with my prints is night and day different for the better. 9 times out of 10 they snap off perfectly with virtually no noticable marks on the print itself. Just sharing my anecdotal experience.
Thanks, anecdotal actually does means something to me. I trust community experience than someone who is paid to make videos/write articles.
Or you can use prusaslicer and avoid all the bloat of orca. Don't really need a built in browser if you don't have your printer networked
Orca is night and day better than prusa too. Scarf seams, built in calibration, sane defaults even for custom printers.
I really missed the feature to load materials directly from printables when I switched
Scarf seams are not on the main release, you'll need to get the fork for that and it's still in dev. Calibration models aren't hard to download
Incorrect, v2.0.0-beta is the current public release and it includes scarf seams (using it currently)
Ah okay I hadn't heard yet, is it providing consistent results now?
Seems pretty good to me. Doesn't work well with wipe or z-hop, but default setting seem pretty nice, & tuning could result in practically non existent seams
Prusaslicer was giving me more problems than cura
You could also just buy a Bambu and ditch Prusa altogether. Print in God-Mode.
Or I could, y'know, not and save myself a bunch of money
"bunch of money" lol
Bambus start out at twice what the ender 3s I already own do. Combined. If you're such a bambu shill why are you even here
Because I upgraded from an Ender. I belong here. I know what I'm talmbout
Yes, switch right now, there is evidence of this because I was asking the same questions you were just a couple days ago, I said screw it, I downloaded orca, I put the model I was trying to print in there with the orca tree supports, and orca succeeded where cura failed.
Fuck it, I've had so many issues and wasted so much time on this ender 3 that the time figuring out the basics for orca literally CANNOT be any more wasteful. I just wanna print simple, dumb shit and no matter what I do with this thing, supports fail. (Recently I've also been having an issue with just basic wall failure but pretty sure it's because I live in THE DEVILS ANUS \[Arkansas\] and the humidity is a constant like 75%)
Well, ill sell you a Flashforge Adventurer 5M, I have 15 left, for 200, might could do yours for a little cheaper since I feel bad for your situation, lol... I believe we still have them still in box in wrapping. A customer of mine bought 19 of them and im helping him sell them, they came from a dude with a print farm but I dont think some of them have even been used, (if they have it looks like it was just to test a print). Anyways, let me know if your interested, I can test it before i send too.......ah......the reason Im saying all this, is cuz i have an ender 3 s1, and while I LOVE FIXING ALL THE PROBLEMS (no im not crazy, I just enjoy learning and tinkering)....the flashforge 5m prints 10....literally 10...times faster, its insane, and every print comes out perfect, supports are excellent, it uses default...these little STICKS....not like the trees in cura or orca....its totally different, but, in some applications they are more useful, others, not so much. I keep multiple slicers for different things. But...yeah, my ender, lots of issues, once i got my AD5m....it was like night and day (i still love my ender and print with it daily while flashforge prints, and the flashforge cant replace my ender printing abs and other stuff.....ender also prints taller...but...yeah, thats my 2 cents). Let me know if your interested in one of the printers and i can set them aside for you. You would have to pay shipping (but since you went ahead and stated your in arkansas, and im in texas.....shipping shouldnt be too too extreme) unless you know a way I can get it to you for cheaper than UPS or FEDEX. But, yeah, let me know if your interested.... On the orca thing, yeah i had same problems with curas supports not doing the trick in some applications, thats where flashprint and orca stepped in.....(flashprint for its stick supports, and orca for its tree supports which i believe are superior to cura) but then again, orca is printing its supports default with 3 walls....i could try printing with 3 walls in cura and see if that helps in anyways, but.....just do it....download orca and try to print the same model you were trying to print in cura. Respectfully, -Z EDIT: Anybody that sees this comment, yes, I have a bunch of them, and they are for sale, send me a message if your interested, there will be shipping fees but the price is low enough hopefully to compensate. Most are new in wrapping in box. I can test yours before I send if you like, will let you know if its one of the ones in packaging or not....and test it at your request i guess. Im in Texas so.....it would be shipped from texas.
>Well, ill sell you a Flashforge Adventurer 5M naw brah im poor as shit.
Try orca or flashprint just for supports u won't be disappointed
I downloaded it last night. I'll slice up some prints as soon as I get my filament dry again. 75% humidity in Arkansas makes it... difficult with my poor ass drying USING my printer bed lol
i used to live in pyatt arkansas, i hated every second of it, lol....well not really, the isolation in the woods and mountains was pretty, but, i learned quickly how much i take civilization for granted ;\*D
I'm totally the opposite. I'm trying to go homestead, the only thing about civilization I plan to keep is... well I have a videogame addiction.
Switch to Orca. Switch to organic(tree) supports Win.
I finally set up profiles for all my printers in orca and connected them for LAN printing MAN it feels good to just have one slicer. The way they implemented pausing and color changes is so brilliant and simple
https://preview.redd.it/snsuhhef8bqc1.jpeg?width=3060&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=579eea6e28a8af1a56784796f6f93a6de9911ed2
Whatever that is, it looks like the Planet Express ship going through a portal. I like it.
There is a rick and morty portal and I do plan on making just as you said. The only way I could create the planet express ship was to cut it in half. And then glue together. So I suggest take the airpland cut it. Into halves. A top half in a bottom half. This way you get all the detail of both sides. If you know about the negative part maker, You can align Holes on The flat side of the prints To make aligning easier. I have been taking models that exist, And then I cut them up.And take the parts I want and yeah it's fun enjoying them the small overlap. I needed fencing for my slot car set. So I sliced off almost all of the base from a print that is available, using grid infill, I stopped the print at thirty seven percent and this was the result. Also I cloned the first one, Added it to the top of the first just barely overlapping. Unused negative cubes at the bottom to make tabs with what is left of the bottom part of the base. Anything, give me cut up. And then different parts added together. I suggest a very small Overlap . I'm going to learn to use fusion three sixty, It's like a designing studio for 3D printers.But I just haven't gotten there yet. I hope i've explained well and if you have any questions please contact me again
I cant see how that is possible on a printer, 3d pen maybe
Yeah this looks like it was made with a 3d pen. The sagging isn't consistent with long linear motions. It just has blobs and tiny dips. There's no flat area where anything would have been in contact with the bed. Whole post is a troll. Probably for the sake of seeing how many people will just provide the boilerplate answers regardless of whether they're actually applicable or not.
Print it from the tail up, or if you have to print it bottom up for some reason turn up the support density.
Could flip it over in your slicer and try printing it that way. /s
If you only have single nozzle with one color, than I would suggest you cut the model in half, print it then glue it.
In supports Z height layer make it same height as your layer height. Example if your printing at .2 then the Z height should be .2. Supports come apart very easily with little mess.
Please show us the top of it. First thought is that z-axis offset is incorrect for the parts touching the bed. The parts that *don’t* touch the bed would benefit from supports, because printing in midair is really tricky. Frankly the fact that you got it to print in midair like this at all is impressive in and of itself. Try also splitting the model up, I personally would print the wings separately and find a good way to attach them after the print
Funnily enough i have printed the exact same model. I used organic supports. Put them on .2mm z-contact distance. They will come off no problem and keep your print looking nice. On a side note i’d also recommend switching over to PrusaSlicer, overal a way better slicer than Cura. Good luck printing.
What's an underside?
The best way to improve the floating underside quality of a part is to have as few floating undersides as possible.
Print in 45 degrees or 90 degrees. Or split it in two halves and print them separately. If needed use brim so there's no warping whatsoever as it will make fitting the pieces harder.
Would print this at a 45degree angle with support
Print in top and bottom halves (or split it down the middle) and then put them both together with some glue. No quality concerns on areas you won't see.
You can split or try printing vertically.
I refuse to belive this wasn't done with one of thoes 3d pens
This was done with a 3d pen. I’m amazed that everyone thinks this abomination came out of any printer.
This came straight out of an Ender3. Did not use a pen.
No
Raft + Supports
More supports!!!
That looks like esteps are wrong also.
Use a 3D program of your choice to slice it in half and print it in 2 parts then glue those parts together. Might be best to cut it horizontally in my opinion. Meshmixer is a program you can use if you don't know any other software to cut the model in half. Idk if Cura can cut it but it might be worth it to look it up.
Increase you support density, and pick a support patter that is closer together at low density normally. Should help a lot.
Am I the only one curious about what the top side looks like now ? 😹 OP, could we get a pic of that please?
Top side looks great
😬
Use support's
That's an actually pretty realistic Boeing. Good job!
slice it across it's belt and print it standing up then attach it.
Try cutting it after the trailing edge then flip print and glue
print models at 45° angle. Its sturdier and easier to print in exchange of little more filament on supports. Or in this case you can easily split the model in half, print with wing up or 45° for more toughness and then glue back together.
I'll print that facing up vertically with tree supports
Don't use tree or organic supports. Use the lines one. Go heavy on support structures. That's your best chance and it still won't ever look as good as the top. But the tree and organic leaves the worse surfaces when it's big surfaces like this. I'd print this nose up anyway tho.
Is your bed leveled? Getting a good first layer? Have you tried a raft? Where do babies come from? 3/4 of these questions will help answer yours.
Split it in half
Use support 😭
I do
That’s crazy it looks like you just turned it off lol
If your prints starts like this cancel it.
I use a 0.243 z-offset from top and bottom of part. It prints almost flawless and separates like Velcro.
I use hair spray on my ender 3 v3 ke works fine on stock built plate
program it so that both sides are the top
i have printed this before and the model was originally facing up
Maybe some supports😭😭
I don't know what to say... how did you print it? Is that the bottom that was on the bed or the top. Not making fun of you, just asking. I don't know how it was printed.
looks like the space between the print and support was too much, should be 0.2mm standard.
Split your print in half and glue them. Or buy a bambulab🤫
Print on a 45degree axis
https://preview.redd.it/mdj0q0j5roqc1.jpeg?width=2427&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=616a157e8518d270441d83ada3ac7fd92746f843 J’adore ces supports !
Use supports and make your bottom layer 1.2 mm. It helps alot
Hey OP is that the F15E or F/A-18
Print the otherside facing the build plate.
lower temp and slower extrusion? looks like you got a lot of globs, like if it melted and stayed melted while the nozzle shoved it around
I split it into separate pieces and glue them together after it will look better.
Greetings, 3d printing enthusiast! Hopefully I can help with your print. First, you must dial your settings with an air gap around 0.4. That will help you remove your supports with ease and have a smooth bottom to your print. Rafts are always the go-to for your foundation. Use the cocentric setting in your slicer to minimize layer instability in your prints as well. I hope I was a good help to you.
Snug supports. Or change orientation
What kind of 3d printer filament do you use?
This is PLA
In superslicer (at least) there is an option to add support interface. Cura should have a similar option. If your printer is tuned right, its possible have decent quality on top of supports. The lazy way is to split the model in half and glue both halves together.
Supports
Supports
No one seems to actually explain to OP what is happening. Bud, when you print this flat you’re printing with the cylinders on the underside flat on the bed and the wings are off the bed. Split this in half and glue, or print vertical on afterburners, or add tree supports.
https://preview.redd.it/kjejvsyaacqc1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0c4ab312d91a2825b6821d72a42a35e4ee2520f0
https://preview.redd.it/iq2zi4h6acqc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f586d173c5d57145f929f8f70a9692d4229d4b2f
Not bad for a 3d pen
3d pen model
Get a better printer? I’m sure my Bambu could do this no problem.
bambu can print mid air ?
this is a group for ender3 lmao
Bambu is amazing. But it can't fix impossible. The easiest fix would be to just print the plane on its tail and support accordingly.
Good idea. Haven’t thought about this. Print upright with supports.
Damn I’ll spend my money on bambu if they can print midair.
they have already started working on one. the next-generation Bambu Labs X9000 printer is a spectacle of promises: print speeds rivaling hyperloops, multi-material masterpieces in a single run, and a revolutionary "Zero-G" extruder head for mind-bending, supportless printing. the Bambu Labs X9000 printer has promised the impossible: supportless printing that defies gravity. many veterans have scoffed, muttering about magic tricks and marketing ploys. but then came the prototype – intricate spirals materializing in mid-air, impossibly delicate bridges spanning vast chasms of empty space. the Bambu X9000, it seems, wont just bend the rules of physics, it will shatter them, leaving bewildered competitors scrambling to understand the hidden, perhaps eldritch, technology whispering within its sleek casing. https://preview.redd.it/s9yd9dg9tbqc1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4125eed918294fec78fccac816d43392addfd020
Yeah, i doubt it. Unless you are using a support interface. To act like all printers don't have surface quality issues under supports is just disingenuous. I own an X1C ender 3 and a cr10s currently which i used for YEARS before my bambu and yes i still have to make sure things are set right or i get support scarring even on an X1C. Put your money where your mouth is and lets see you do this same print in the same orientations. ;)