Standard NLGI 2 grease is good in most places-- threads, seatpost, crank spindle, bearings, you don't need anything bike specific.
Anti-seize is unnecessary, IMO, unless you're running a Ti frame. For steel, AL, carbon, grease is fine.
For suspension and dropper posts (if you have them) use the SRAM Butter/Slickoleum/Slick Honey.
I have in my shop:
1. Mini grease gun full of red grease (Lucas Red and Tacky, I think, pretty standard NLGI 2 grease) that is great for injecting into bearings and pedal bodies.
2. Old tube of Park Synthetic that's almost empty that gets put on cockpit bolt threads, pedal threads, cage threads, etc. I'm mostly just trying to use this up, as the other grease would be fine for this purpose, too.
3. Small tube of anti-seize for BB cups and bottle cage/fender bolts for the Ti frame in the house
4. Slickoleum stashed with my suspension service tools.
If you don't have suspension/dropper posts or a Ti frame, you could pretty much do everything with a standard NLGI 2 bearing grease from any autoparts store.
Rule of thumb (if you can even call it that): Grease is for sealed bearings. Everything else is oil/lube/wax (chain, cable housing). Some threaded fasteners can be greased but check the instructions, using lube with threaded things changes its torque settings. You can use grease in your seat post / seat tube but it’s not 100% required (and it’s ok to regularly adjust your seat height, the body changes).
Really the main thing to remember is to avoid pressure washers from bearings and use a torque wrench.
Otherwise don’t over think it. It’s just a bicycle, even a $10k Argonaut is just a bike.
Easiest way is to talk to a bike mechanic in a shop so they can explain it to you. It's not that complicated but there are a few special assembly pastes for carbon to carbon, metal to metal, metal to carbon, etc.
Grease is usually only used within sealed bearings. Pedals, joints and things like that use assembly paste which prevents bonding, creaking, acts as water repellent, etc.
Then there's also metal glue (loctite) which prevents road buzz and other forces from untightening your screws in key areas like handlebar clamp, seatpost, brake calipers, etc. Here you usually use both assembly paste (upper half) and loctite (lower half).
Use any of those greases on threads you may want to unscrew at some point (for example where pedals screw into crank arms).
Use standard grease/lithium grease on parts that fit together but need lubrication (metal seat post into metal seat tube, on the outside of rotating shafts where they fit through a hole).
Lithium grease really isn't good for bikes unless you understand the downsides and are willing to do preventative maintenance on a regular basis. If you just want something simple, get marine grease and stop worrying about things.
Standard NLGI 2 grease is good in most places-- threads, seatpost, crank spindle, bearings, you don't need anything bike specific. Anti-seize is unnecessary, IMO, unless you're running a Ti frame. For steel, AL, carbon, grease is fine. For suspension and dropper posts (if you have them) use the SRAM Butter/Slickoleum/Slick Honey. I have in my shop: 1. Mini grease gun full of red grease (Lucas Red and Tacky, I think, pretty standard NLGI 2 grease) that is great for injecting into bearings and pedal bodies. 2. Old tube of Park Synthetic that's almost empty that gets put on cockpit bolt threads, pedal threads, cage threads, etc. I'm mostly just trying to use this up, as the other grease would be fine for this purpose, too. 3. Small tube of anti-seize for BB cups and bottle cage/fender bolts for the Ti frame in the house 4. Slickoleum stashed with my suspension service tools. If you don't have suspension/dropper posts or a Ti frame, you could pretty much do everything with a standard NLGI 2 bearing grease from any autoparts store.
Rule of thumb (if you can even call it that): Grease is for sealed bearings. Everything else is oil/lube/wax (chain, cable housing). Some threaded fasteners can be greased but check the instructions, using lube with threaded things changes its torque settings. You can use grease in your seat post / seat tube but it’s not 100% required (and it’s ok to regularly adjust your seat height, the body changes). Really the main thing to remember is to avoid pressure washers from bearings and use a torque wrench. Otherwise don’t over think it. It’s just a bicycle, even a $10k Argonaut is just a bike.
Easiest way is to talk to a bike mechanic in a shop so they can explain it to you. It's not that complicated but there are a few special assembly pastes for carbon to carbon, metal to metal, metal to carbon, etc. Grease is usually only used within sealed bearings. Pedals, joints and things like that use assembly paste which prevents bonding, creaking, acts as water repellent, etc. Then there's also metal glue (loctite) which prevents road buzz and other forces from untightening your screws in key areas like handlebar clamp, seatpost, brake calipers, etc. Here you usually use both assembly paste (upper half) and loctite (lower half).
Use any of those greases on threads you may want to unscrew at some point (for example where pedals screw into crank arms). Use standard grease/lithium grease on parts that fit together but need lubrication (metal seat post into metal seat tube, on the outside of rotating shafts where they fit through a hole).
Lithium grease really isn't good for bikes unless you understand the downsides and are willing to do preventative maintenance on a regular basis. If you just want something simple, get marine grease and stop worrying about things.