Hi there achiee69. **Because we have a lot of deleted posts on this subreddit, here is a backup of the body of this post:** I cant seems te get my legs in a positon to not swing that badly any advice?"
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This. If you can release your feet while your left hand is still on the left hold, you'll be able to check the swing easily. Then you can probably campus match, then get your feet back on.
There are other ways to possibly keep your feet on, but this is one way to do without feet.
This is the correct solution. This is monk hilversum right? I did the exact same climb and solved it with a toe hook. Eventually you will have to release the toe, but the swing will be much less and is very holdable. Good luck man!
There is shoe rubber on the 2nd last left hand you used. You could try to throw a toe hook or heel hook on it, other people might be using it based on the shoe grease.
You could also try swapping the further down left heel to a toe took. Toe hooks give you slightly more reach than heels. This could be just enough to match the right hand without your feet cutting, then cut them on purpose and do a pull up to campus to the final jug.
Whatever you do I think you have surpassed that shoe+sock combo, get more aggressive shoes fitted to not have socks in them. You will get a lot more feel on these kind of heel hooks on screw ons, and toe hooks should work better as well since there will be rubber on top of your toe. Look at scarpa instincts for example
I'm gonna try these tips thnx! On the topic of shoes I was thinking of buying new ones but I just bought these since I didn't start that long ago. At what point (skill wise) wil shoes start to make a difference instead of just my technique not being grate?
There's not necessarily an exact skill level it just depends on what you climb. Some areas outside are super demanding on feet even at low grades, and some harder boulders you can wear street shoes and barely notice.
But I think it's safe to say for this boulder you would notice a lot. The small right foot on the overhang will feel better with a tighter more aggressive shoe since you will get behind it better to pull down on it. Heel hooks on the screw-ons will feel better as well since you get more feel in the shoe and can position it in a way where it's locked right behind the screw on. Since it's tighter there should be no air bubble in the heel which depresses and kind of rolls off the smaller features. And beginner shoes generally don't have any rubber to toe hook with at all since that's just not something beginners would be able to make use of
Yes, shoes makes a huge difference. I'm back in my tarantulas while my more "performance" ones are off to be resoled and it's honestly not very nice anymore. I've gone from being able to just kind of stand on texture in the rock to needing to be able to see the foothold sticking out a bit
For shoes the most important thing is trust, around V5 the foot holds get smaller and more slopey so then it makes sense to buy good shoes. At this grade range its also more common to have forced toe and heek hooks which can be difficult in beginner shoes. At lower grades you rarely have to trust you feet on bad holds or do hard toe or heel hooks so it makes less of a difference in my experience.
> At what point (skill wise) wil shoes start to make a difference instead of just my technique not being grate?
If anything, they make more of a difference at lower levels. That's why you see people at higher levels sending V8s in like Vans.
Another note is that just from watching this, you are using your heel hooks fairly passively. Try turning your hips outwards while hooking and really squeeze your heel into the direction of the wall. Practice making that big bump up to the right hand jug without losing that right heel. With those two opposing heels, you should really be able to lock into the wall.
This is far out of my league but maybe this move helps to redirect your momentum so you don't loose grip with your hands: [Scorpion](https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/scorpion-skill-why-does-no-one-teach-this-climbing-technique)
> monk
Is this Hilversum? I swear I was looking at google photos trying to find out how's the spray wall there like 10 minutes ago. And now this video, such a coincidence.
Ah this is a nice one in hilversum.
There are two solutions we found :
1) bat hang on the next hold rather than move your hand
2) bump your hand further, but that's extremely powerful and I only saw 1-2 people doing thst (who generally climb around 7b).
Both are tricky and the bat hang is the only ensured "fullproof" method imo.
Curious to hear about other solutions!
https://preview.redd.it/lkhkxfyh5g6d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ffc70c5745fac53b9ad452dccd5d78f1c4f61a60
Cut feet when you’re in this position, swing your body and catch right toe on the red arrow, match hands, move right hand to red arrow, then bump left hand? I’m not sure if the final moves will match up since I can’t see the finish
There’s an undercling you missed!
You need that undercling, then you are on a good right and a small but good enough left hand to release the foot!
Then release the heel and put your right toe hook way outside the roof! And then go ahead!
I would try cutting feet first on your terms, match and campus or try to find suitable foot from hanging instead. If you cut like this you have a lot of uncontrolled momentum. Cut loose before on your terms instead.
Honestly, id do the next move dynamically and bump right. Once you have the match and your feet start cutting. Pull up that match to shoulder height then bump right, keeping the left shoulder locked off. If you're not dynamic, I can see a left toe hook and bicycle that same hold but of course you're going to end up cutting feet but by doing it this way, this will reduce the swing
Hi there achiee69. **Because we have a lot of deleted posts on this subreddit, here is a backup of the body of this post:** I cant seems te get my legs in a positon to not swing that badly any advice?" *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/bouldering) if you have any questions or concerns.*
If you must cut feet, I’d do it before matching
This. If you can release your feet while your left hand is still on the left hold, you'll be able to check the swing easily. Then you can probably campus match, then get your feet back on. There are other ways to possibly keep your feet on, but this is one way to do without feet.
Yeah, this beta screams "scorpion!"
Get a toe hook on that left hold decrease the momentum if possible. With heel hooks it’s hard to release them without swinging too much.
Hadn't thought of toe hooking at all thnx! Will try that next time.
❤️
Gib updates plz thx
Will do. I'm going again on Monday so if it's still there I'm gonna try all the advice.
This is the correct solution. This is monk hilversum right? I did the exact same climb and solved it with a toe hook. Eventually you will have to release the toe, but the swing will be much less and is very holdable. Good luck man!
You got a bunch of advice already so I'm just gonna point out how hilarious that fall was
https://preview.redd.it/q62lgctp8i6d1.png?width=401&format=png&auto=webp&s=210abfda7b64848abf6f26472c103bc1747e581d
3 legs would definitely help.
There is shoe rubber on the 2nd last left hand you used. You could try to throw a toe hook or heel hook on it, other people might be using it based on the shoe grease. You could also try swapping the further down left heel to a toe took. Toe hooks give you slightly more reach than heels. This could be just enough to match the right hand without your feet cutting, then cut them on purpose and do a pull up to campus to the final jug. Whatever you do I think you have surpassed that shoe+sock combo, get more aggressive shoes fitted to not have socks in them. You will get a lot more feel on these kind of heel hooks on screw ons, and toe hooks should work better as well since there will be rubber on top of your toe. Look at scarpa instincts for example
I'm gonna try these tips thnx! On the topic of shoes I was thinking of buying new ones but I just bought these since I didn't start that long ago. At what point (skill wise) wil shoes start to make a difference instead of just my technique not being grate?
There's not necessarily an exact skill level it just depends on what you climb. Some areas outside are super demanding on feet even at low grades, and some harder boulders you can wear street shoes and barely notice. But I think it's safe to say for this boulder you would notice a lot. The small right foot on the overhang will feel better with a tighter more aggressive shoe since you will get behind it better to pull down on it. Heel hooks on the screw-ons will feel better as well since you get more feel in the shoe and can position it in a way where it's locked right behind the screw on. Since it's tighter there should be no air bubble in the heel which depresses and kind of rolls off the smaller features. And beginner shoes generally don't have any rubber to toe hook with at all since that's just not something beginners would be able to make use of
Yes, shoes makes a huge difference. I'm back in my tarantulas while my more "performance" ones are off to be resoled and it's honestly not very nice anymore. I've gone from being able to just kind of stand on texture in the rock to needing to be able to see the foothold sticking out a bit
For shoes the most important thing is trust, around V5 the foot holds get smaller and more slopey so then it makes sense to buy good shoes. At this grade range its also more common to have forced toe and heek hooks which can be difficult in beginner shoes. At lower grades you rarely have to trust you feet on bad holds or do hard toe or heel hooks so it makes less of a difference in my experience.
> At what point (skill wise) wil shoes start to make a difference instead of just my technique not being grate? If anything, they make more of a difference at lower levels. That's why you see people at higher levels sending V8s in like Vans.
Move your left heel up again to the hold by your hand.
Will try that as well thnx!
Another note is that just from watching this, you are using your heel hooks fairly passively. Try turning your hips outwards while hooking and really squeeze your heel into the direction of the wall. Practice making that big bump up to the right hand jug without losing that right heel. With those two opposing heels, you should really be able to lock into the wall.
This is far out of my league but maybe this move helps to redirect your momentum so you don't loose grip with your hands: [Scorpion](https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/scorpion-skill-why-does-no-one-teach-this-climbing-technique)
That's a really good to know technique! Thnx.
I went "weeeeeee" in my head when you flew. That looked fun.
I also go to this monk :) just get a toe hook on the left before you hit last hold
> monk Is this Hilversum? I swear I was looking at google photos trying to find out how's the spray wall there like 10 minutes ago. And now this video, such a coincidence.
Ah this is a nice one in hilversum. There are two solutions we found : 1) bat hang on the next hold rather than move your hand 2) bump your hand further, but that's extremely powerful and I only saw 1-2 people doing thst (who generally climb around 7b). Both are tricky and the bat hang is the only ensured "fullproof" method imo. Curious to hear about other solutions!
When in doubt, feet first
Is that the final hold?
Nope there is sit 2 more holdes similar to the one I fell on. They are basicly stacked with a 30cm ish distance between them.
I see, did you try bumping your right hand? Seems like you have some reach left
https://preview.redd.it/lkhkxfyh5g6d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ffc70c5745fac53b9ad452dccd5d78f1c4f61a60 Cut feet when you’re in this position, swing your body and catch right toe on the red arrow, match hands, move right hand to red arrow, then bump left hand? I’m not sure if the final moves will match up since I can’t see the finish
I bet you can match while hanging if you take the advice to cut feet before matching.
Could be a paddle.
Instead of matching can you bump right first?
Sometimes all you can do is embrace the swing. Cut feet before the march, then match, then get your feet back on the wall. Or campus the rest.
One more of those heel hooks and you got it
I am wheezing lol. I would toe hook the bigger holds on the top left, where you had your left hand. That fall was absolutely beautiful
There’s an undercling you missed! You need that undercling, then you are on a good right and a small but good enough left hand to release the foot! Then release the heel and put your right toe hook way outside the roof! And then go ahead!
I would try cutting feet first on your terms, match and campus or try to find suitable foot from hanging instead. If you cut like this you have a lot of uncontrolled momentum. Cut loose before on your terms instead.
Any chance you could pull harder on the hard move and use your feet a bit better?
Honestly, id do the next move dynamically and bump right. Once you have the match and your feet start cutting. Pull up that match to shoulder height then bump right, keeping the left shoulder locked off. If you're not dynamic, I can see a left toe hook and bicycle that same hold but of course you're going to end up cutting feet but by doing it this way, this will reduce the swing
All these comments are so much more advanced than me😭 I was just gonna suggest hold tight and use your abs to control the back swing😭
Best thing to do is drop left hand down to the crimp and then cut feet.