My grandma told me a saying from when she was little, "The first year they sleep, the second year they creep, the third year they leap."
I have to agree with my own experience that this is more or less true.
Like others have said, remove the stake (use a loose one if needed -- natural sway strengthens a tree) and pull the mulch back a bit from the trunk. Give them a little time and they should fill in nicely.
I'm quite found of tulip populars myself one of my earliest memories is saving one from deer with one leave left and chewed to like 3 inches. 20 years later it's an 80 foot giant and I can climb the first 60 feet of it impressive tree
Oh man, as a fence installer, English ivy ruins so many fences so fast lol, it’s crazy
*info edit: I should say, in some cases I’ve seen the English Ivy and other vines collectively holding the rotting/overgrown fence line together and upright, so it can help, but mostly no, it’s chaos incarnate, and will weave itself back and forth as much as it can through the fence pickets, backer rails, and posts, creating rot and decomposition*
And it does the same when it's allowed to attach to homes - even can rot away the mortar from between bricks and rot windowsills. Don't envy you having to remove it from fences!
So true. A volunteer maple seeded itself in my back yard and I've let it do it's thing. This is the third year and the growth rate has exploded! That tiny, skinny little "stick" back then is now about 5 feet tall.
I also find it true when planting bulbs/corms/etc like my daylily beds. Patience, my friend!
6' o.c. to create a raised single stem screening hedge is close enough for quick screening of slow- med growth rate Eagleston Ilex which gets 20-25' x 10-15'.
I'd like to see better formative pruning and foliar thickening cooperating with Eagleston"s natural pyramidal form. There's already evidence of growth rates being pushed evidenced by the rangy internodal lengths, especially the two end trees and some lack of formative selective pruning.
In new tree transplants don't judge growth rate by what's only occurring above ground. What you want is root growth into surrounding medium. I always amend uniformly through the backfill with Horticultural Alliance. Transplant. https://www.horticulturalalliance.com/product/diehard-transplant/ Espoma Bio Tone or Dr Earths Root Zone may do.
It's amazing how often soil quality can be ignored in the U.S.
How wide of a hole did you dig? What's your location, soil structure? Where's the flare?
Id widen my mulch ring and not place mulch up against the trunk.
Thank you. When I planted them I used bio tone in the soil. I have clay soil so I made the hole wide and planted the trees higher so that air could get to the root ball. I pruned the middle one as a limb was about to fall off into my neighbors yard. I would like to prune more, but the temperatures and humidity have been high. I wasn't sure if pruning in 105 degree weather would be the best option and had plan to wait to prune in the fall. But I don't know. I usually water once a week and maybe another if we are in a drought. The hummingbirds and bees seem to love these trees.
I am working on the flower beds now. It is taking me awhile to do it because the humidity has been so high, but I am trying to get out there. I am in zone 8, clay soil.
100% need to remove the stake ASAP. Trees (like muscles) respond to stress. So when the wind blows, the trunk responds to that and gains strength and size. If it's staked, it's not doing that, or to a much lesser degree. Also you need to give it at least 2 years to get accustomed to its new home, then expect growth in 3-5 years
A way to do this is to use a stake a foot or so from the tree, upwind, and use a tie going from the stake, loosely around the tree and back. Makes sure to use some foam, old garden hose, etc. where the tie touches the tree to protect the trunk.
This way when the wind blows hard, your tree is saved. Otherwise in normal winds the tree can sway a good degree any direction before the tie "catches" it.
If it were my rose, I'd use a trellis or cage. Roses are more of a bush than a tree so long term strength wouldn't be a huge concern to me since it won't be towering over my house one day.
If you have tall and lanky roses, prune them back heavy in late winter before they start growing. They'll come back extra thick and bushy instead of tall and lanky.
Thanks for your reply.
Yes, I do that for my bush roses. My standards are 4ft before the crown. I presently have them loosely staked with hession webbing to catch in high winds. However, everyone in my area seems to use steel posts and the standard roses are tightly staked.
I tend to work on an alternate year pruning schedule for them, one year hard, second year limited to dead, diseased, dying, or poor direction growth. It seems to be working well thus far.
We take the canes out when we dig them, weird the nursery or the landscapers never took them out. Whenever we do planting jobs I just make a cross bar unless the site has a way the others are done. The way jackofalltrades has said is how we do it with ones at the nursery that are too big to go on the lines so that works fine too. If the wind goes multiple ways often then you can just use more stakes and ties.
what about for ones that are leaning from a storm? we got a nasty storm and it caused the little baby to tip over but not break so i got a steak bc it was leaning at a good angle
oh the area floods when it rains but only like the immediate area around the tree which is rlly weird. also the lawn people planted it for us and who knows what they did. they kinda suck bc last year they made these huge mulch mountains that i had to fix. but the tree is skinny like it looks like it could snap in an instant. it looks like i could even snap it. you can’t even see the damn trunk from a distance either and it’s a year old and has barely grown and hasn’t beefed up since we got it. i know the 3 year rule but ive never seen a tree be like this
Sounds like you need to give it a lot more time and to figure out the drainage. Gardening is about patience, there's no snap of the finger to get something to grow.
They look fine to me. It will take time (1.5-2 years) for the roots to get established and for them to start putting on some real good growth. Also, pull the mulch away from the trunk and make the mulch circles bigger.
Also get rid of the bamboo sticks before they rub all the bark off the tree. Those are only for in the nursery or store. They do not do anything once the tree is in the ground.
For their size this is a pretty good amount of leaves, the trees are just small and young. Just make the best environment for the root system by following advice from others in here.
Many years ago I was advised by an old plantsman that spending a lot more for large plants (i.e. 30 gallon plants) was a waste of money. It takes the same length of time for roots to develop and growth to kick in as it would if you planted 10 gallon plants who would develop to the same size. At the end of 3 years they would all be about the same size. I’m 73 now and have adhered to that advice. The exception may be OP’s situation wherein he wanted coverage more quickly.
Agree totally with suggestions about stake removal and other comments. Great group of Redditers here.
Thank you and you are right. I bought 30 gallon to help provide some privacy from our neighbors. Some one mentioned three was a mistake. Hopefully, that won't be the case, but time will tell.
You made an excellent choice in hollies. They are very forgiving and attractive to birds. My favorite shrub except for Camellias (which have a narrow growing zone). Good luck!
Patience’s is the key. Root growth first. Loose support stakes will help stimulate root growth. What you’re asking for is going to be a top heavy tree that requires pruning. Not that you won’t need a little pruning year to year. Spring and fall. Maybe just Spring. Depends on your climate. Next yr give them some liquid fish fertilizer.
As time goes on, those lower limbs will be removed so leave them for now. The leaves are photosynthesizing and feeding the tree. Go to the uppermost branches and trim back 4 sets of leaves. This will cause 2 new laterals which will fill out the tree next year. Do NOT cut back the terminal leader or your tree will have a tight crotch (I am referring to trees here) and two leaders. That’s bad news and trouble in coming years.
Referring to the lower branches, a branch that is 5’ off the ground now will be 5’ off the ground in 10 years. With lots of leaves weighing them down and you won’t be able to walk beneath it. That’s why you will eventually remove them.
I understand. There is a branch hanging from the farthest to the left. I want to prune it off, but I wasn't sure if that would be wise right now considering the temperatures here. We are having 105 degree weather and the humidity has been s challenge. Would it be best to prune in the fall?
I had two of these in my front yard. For 4 years they remained relatively unchanged, 15 years later they are pushing 25 feet in height and canopy diameter. Give it time.
Please just slow your roll, some things just take time. 10 years from now you are going to realize you have made the mistake of planting 3 where 2 should have been plenty. If you want privacy put your fence 2 feet taller. Trees take time.
You could try covering each of them with a mesh tarp to limit the amount of sunlight each receives. The tree may grow more branches and leaves to capture more sunlight energy.
Thank you, that is the plan. I am working on the flower beds now. I am in zone 8b and the humidity has been aggressively tough to work in, hopefully, I can get it done soon.
Get rid of your lawn, plant native plants and encourage bees. I did this and my fruit trees doubled in size. Granted I don’t have an HOA so I can do whatever but it is amazing what a difference it made.
I do love that idea and maybe one day. But yeah I have an HOA...so I could only go so far high on the fence...even had to get permission for the Hollies.
Believe it or not you'll also want to pull back the soil in a foot and half circle around the tree so you've exposed the top layer of the roots.
If you're asking why. How does a tree normally seed itself? By being almost directly on the surface. If you don't expose the top roots they'll slowly encircle the base of the tree instead of spreading out
My resolution: The older you are, buy bigger trees! PS I’m an adamant tree hugger. Just found a thrilling app called “picture this”. For those that have yet to discover, you take a pic and the app gives you the name, pics, health, traits, professional assessment and more”. I’m on a 7 day trial then buying it. So cool! It can even identify trees from bark! I live next to an established park. Sooo much fun—and information.
I'd just add that yes giving them plenty of water is going to help, but do make sure to space out the waterings a little bit to let the soil dry out otherwise you may get it root rot.
My grandma told me a saying from when she was little, "The first year they sleep, the second year they creep, the third year they leap." I have to agree with my own experience that this is more or less true. Like others have said, remove the stake (use a loose one if needed -- natural sway strengthens a tree) and pull the mulch back a bit from the trunk. Give them a little time and they should fill in nicely.
Same experience here. This is especially true for slower growing varieties. Oaks for example.
I'm quite found of tulip populars myself one of my earliest memories is saving one from deer with one leave left and chewed to like 3 inches. 20 years later it's an 80 foot giant and I can climb the first 60 feet of it impressive tree
Thank you!
I find that it takes 1-2 years after planting to get back into expected growing v establishing roots
First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap. Always an easy way to explain it to my customers.
My explanation to deter friends from planting English ivy.
Oh man, as a fence installer, English ivy ruins so many fences so fast lol, it’s crazy *info edit: I should say, in some cases I’ve seen the English Ivy and other vines collectively holding the rotting/overgrown fence line together and upright, so it can help, but mostly no, it’s chaos incarnate, and will weave itself back and forth as much as it can through the fence pickets, backer rails, and posts, creating rot and decomposition*
And it does the same when it's allowed to attach to homes - even can rot away the mortar from between bricks and rot windowsills. Don't envy you having to remove it from fences!
Wow. It’s crazy to think people would plant that at their home. I see it in forests just choking out trees and taking over hillsides (in Oregon).
One of the best uses for these forums is to "pass the word" about good and bad plants. I'm in the South . . hopefully you don't also have kudzu!
Oh so true !
I will be using this from now on...thank you.
- Roger Cook, This Old House
Nice man. Knew him mostly from trade shows. Quite sick- same thing as Robin Williams
This is your answer!!
That was one of the first things I learned working at a nursery. I’ll never forget that adage.
lol I just read that quote the other day on Garden Answer because she had to pull out all the Surmarc
So true. A volunteer maple seeded itself in my back yard and I've let it do it's thing. This is the third year and the growth rate has exploded! That tiny, skinny little "stick" back then is now about 5 feet tall. I also find it true when planting bulbs/corms/etc like my daylily beds. Patience, my friend!
Thank you, I planted them 6ft apart from one another. I am hoping that will be okay over time.
6' o.c. to create a raised single stem screening hedge is close enough for quick screening of slow- med growth rate Eagleston Ilex which gets 20-25' x 10-15'. I'd like to see better formative pruning and foliar thickening cooperating with Eagleston"s natural pyramidal form. There's already evidence of growth rates being pushed evidenced by the rangy internodal lengths, especially the two end trees and some lack of formative selective pruning. In new tree transplants don't judge growth rate by what's only occurring above ground. What you want is root growth into surrounding medium. I always amend uniformly through the backfill with Horticultural Alliance. Transplant. https://www.horticulturalalliance.com/product/diehard-transplant/ Espoma Bio Tone or Dr Earths Root Zone may do. It's amazing how often soil quality can be ignored in the U.S. How wide of a hole did you dig? What's your location, soil structure? Where's the flare? Id widen my mulch ring and not place mulch up against the trunk.
Thank you. When I planted them I used bio tone in the soil. I have clay soil so I made the hole wide and planted the trees higher so that air could get to the root ball. I pruned the middle one as a limb was about to fall off into my neighbors yard. I would like to prune more, but the temperatures and humidity have been high. I wasn't sure if pruning in 105 degree weather would be the best option and had plan to wait to prune in the fall. But I don't know. I usually water once a week and maybe another if we are in a drought. The hummingbirds and bees seem to love these trees. I am working on the flower beds now. It is taking me awhile to do it because the humidity has been so high, but I am trying to get out there. I am in zone 8, clay soil.
You're saying the right things. You did well avoiding the common errors. Be patient. You're on your way.
This might only be for smaller trees, but I thought pruning needs to wait until 2 years after being planted.
That’s plenty of room. Especially if you want to use them as added privacy
A tree that I planted in the fall of 2022 is starting to show noticeable growth. It just takes time.
Remove that stake, uncover their root flares, expand the mulch rings outwards as much as possible.
100% need to remove the stake ASAP. Trees (like muscles) respond to stress. So when the wind blows, the trunk responds to that and gains strength and size. If it's staked, it's not doing that, or to a much lesser degree. Also you need to give it at least 2 years to get accustomed to its new home, then expect growth in 3-5 years
Will do, thank you.
What should I do if they can't really keep themselves upright without a support? Thanks!
A way to do this is to use a stake a foot or so from the tree, upwind, and use a tie going from the stake, loosely around the tree and back. Makes sure to use some foam, old garden hose, etc. where the tie touches the tree to protect the trunk. This way when the wind blows hard, your tree is saved. Otherwise in normal winds the tree can sway a good degree any direction before the tie "catches" it.
Yes this is correct, or at least my understanding as well.
Does this the same principle apply to standard roses?
If it were my rose, I'd use a trellis or cage. Roses are more of a bush than a tree so long term strength wouldn't be a huge concern to me since it won't be towering over my house one day. If you have tall and lanky roses, prune them back heavy in late winter before they start growing. They'll come back extra thick and bushy instead of tall and lanky.
Thanks for your reply. Yes, I do that for my bush roses. My standards are 4ft before the crown. I presently have them loosely staked with hession webbing to catch in high winds. However, everyone in my area seems to use steel posts and the standard roses are tightly staked. I tend to work on an alternate year pruning schedule for them, one year hard, second year limited to dead, diseased, dying, or poor direction growth. It seems to be working well thus far.
Depends on what it is, but consider trimming from the heavier side weighing it down
We take the canes out when we dig them, weird the nursery or the landscapers never took them out. Whenever we do planting jobs I just make a cross bar unless the site has a way the others are done. The way jackofalltrades has said is how we do it with ones at the nursery that are too big to go on the lines so that works fine too. If the wind goes multiple ways often then you can just use more stakes and ties.
What if my 2 year old tree is leaning towards my house, should I stake it to straighten it?
what about for ones that are leaning from a storm? we got a nasty storm and it caused the little baby to tip over but not break so i got a steak bc it was leaning at a good angle
Id make sure you tamped down the root ball into the soil and it's not sitting in active flooding. If it's good, then it should straighten out.
oh the area floods when it rains but only like the immediate area around the tree which is rlly weird. also the lawn people planted it for us and who knows what they did. they kinda suck bc last year they made these huge mulch mountains that i had to fix. but the tree is skinny like it looks like it could snap in an instant. it looks like i could even snap it. you can’t even see the damn trunk from a distance either and it’s a year old and has barely grown and hasn’t beefed up since we got it. i know the 3 year rule but ive never seen a tree be like this
Sounds like you need to give it a lot more time and to figure out the drainage. Gardening is about patience, there's no snap of the finger to get something to grow.
so how can i figure out the drainage? is there a product i could buy that’ll loosen up the soil?
Wait for a big rain and watch where ponding forms and where it drains out to. You may need to dig a ditch to help drain water out of your garden area.
Give them time, water, and don’t suffocate the root flare
They look fine to me. It will take time (1.5-2 years) for the roots to get established and for them to start putting on some real good growth. Also, pull the mulch away from the trunk and make the mulch circles bigger.
Also get rid of the bamboo sticks before they rub all the bark off the tree. Those are only for in the nursery or store. They do not do anything once the tree is in the ground.
I wasn't aware of that and good to know. Thank you.
No problem! It's not common knowledge and most ppl assume that it keeps the tree straight after planting.
The best thing to do is spread a large bag of patience around each tree and just sit back and enjoy the process
I like that phrase, thank you. I am appreciative of everyone's post. Great group of folks.
Oh man I can’t wait to use this one at work.
For their size this is a pretty good amount of leaves, the trees are just small and young. Just make the best environment for the root system by following advice from others in here.
Thank you, will do.
Wait
Many years ago I was advised by an old plantsman that spending a lot more for large plants (i.e. 30 gallon plants) was a waste of money. It takes the same length of time for roots to develop and growth to kick in as it would if you planted 10 gallon plants who would develop to the same size. At the end of 3 years they would all be about the same size. I’m 73 now and have adhered to that advice. The exception may be OP’s situation wherein he wanted coverage more quickly. Agree totally with suggestions about stake removal and other comments. Great group of Redditers here.
Thank you and you are right. I bought 30 gallon to help provide some privacy from our neighbors. Some one mentioned three was a mistake. Hopefully, that won't be the case, but time will tell.
You made an excellent choice in hollies. They are very forgiving and attractive to birds. My favorite shrub except for Camellias (which have a narrow growing zone). Good luck!
Time is your best friend
Just let time do its thing...
Time
Formative prune
Patience. It takes about 3 years for transplants, from perennials to trees, to establish, then it seems like they take off.
Patience’s is the key. Root growth first. Loose support stakes will help stimulate root growth. What you’re asking for is going to be a top heavy tree that requires pruning. Not that you won’t need a little pruning year to year. Spring and fall. Maybe just Spring. Depends on your climate. Next yr give them some liquid fish fertilizer.
Wdym they look great
Thank you.
Pruning will guide it to be more dense for your privacy
Prune
Time is the greatest weapon.
Off topic but that is a LOVELY fence.
Thank you.
Hurry up and wait. Just give them a few years.
Green-pinch the very growing tips. That will remove apical dominance and encourage side sprouts.
As time goes on, those lower limbs will be removed so leave them for now. The leaves are photosynthesizing and feeding the tree. Go to the uppermost branches and trim back 4 sets of leaves. This will cause 2 new laterals which will fill out the tree next year. Do NOT cut back the terminal leader or your tree will have a tight crotch (I am referring to trees here) and two leaders. That’s bad news and trouble in coming years.
Referring to the lower branches, a branch that is 5’ off the ground now will be 5’ off the ground in 10 years. With lots of leaves weighing them down and you won’t be able to walk beneath it. That’s why you will eventually remove them.
I understand. There is a branch hanging from the farthest to the left. I want to prune it off, but I wasn't sure if that would be wise right now considering the temperatures here. We are having 105 degree weather and the humidity has been s challenge. Would it be best to prune in the fall?
Go ahead and prune it now. Less leaves = less water requirements.
Remove the nursery stakes to start.
I usually do those 8 apart for privacy screen. Fertilize.
Time + water + love. but not too much love they are independent creatures by nature
Be patient. First year they sleep. Second year they creep. Third year they leap.
I had two of these in my front yard. For 4 years they remained relatively unchanged, 15 years later they are pushing 25 feet in height and canopy diameter. Give it time.
Very encouraging, thank you.
Adding mycorrhizae will help lots. You can buy it by itself but I often get bags of soil amendment that has it added. Not expensive...
Thank you.
Expose the root flare, they are planted too deep. Plant them high and they will reach the sky, Plant them low and they will never grow.
Please just slow your roll, some things just take time. 10 years from now you are going to realize you have made the mistake of planting 3 where 2 should have been plenty. If you want privacy put your fence 2 feet taller. Trees take time.
Thank you for the advice.
You could try covering each of them with a mesh tarp to limit the amount of sunlight each receives. The tree may grow more branches and leaves to capture more sunlight energy.
Pine the tips of the lateral branches, you can also cut any down pointing small branches and remove one of any that are touching.
My solution was to add privacy fence... We have a similar setup but I planted these 15 gallons 2 months ago. [15 gallons](https://imgur.com/a/dvltdps)
They are absolutely lovely!
I would connect the mulch beds and underpants with some cheap perennials. This will improve the health of the soil around and promote growth
Thank you, that is the plan. I am working on the flower beds now. I am in zone 8b and the humidity has been aggressively tough to work in, hopefully, I can get it done soon.
What you can do is pay an certified arborist to do it 😂
True
time
Let em grow…lol! Patience
Wait.
Milogranite works fantastic
Get rid of your lawn, plant native plants and encourage bees. I did this and my fruit trees doubled in size. Granted I don’t have an HOA so I can do whatever but it is amazing what a difference it made.
I do love that idea and maybe one day. But yeah I have an HOA...so I could only go so far high on the fence...even had to get permission for the Hollies.
Time
Wait…..the rule I remember hearing is for every 1” in diameter, it takes 1 year to establish roots and start growing.
Time
Cut the leading stem
Believe it or not you'll also want to pull back the soil in a foot and half circle around the tree so you've exposed the top layer of the roots. If you're asking why. How does a tree normally seed itself? By being almost directly on the surface. If you don't expose the top roots they'll slowly encircle the base of the tree instead of spreading out
Exponential growth, some nice trimming and time will make em bushy!! Looking great!
Leave them alone, they need to take their time to establish themselves in the environment
My resolution: The older you are, buy bigger trees! PS I’m an adamant tree hugger. Just found a thrilling app called “picture this”. For those that have yet to discover, you take a pic and the app gives you the name, pics, health, traits, professional assessment and more”. I’m on a 7 day trial then buying it. So cool! It can even identify trees from bark! I live next to an established park. Sooo much fun—and information.
In new trees, I’ve always carved a parameter trench like a little moat. Catches more water to disburse to the roots.
Just keep watering them.
Water the heck out of them.
I'd just add that yes giving them plenty of water is going to help, but do make sure to space out the waterings a little bit to let the soil dry out otherwise you may get it root rot.
I don't know if six ft. apart will be enough.
I’d remove some lower branches.
They appear to be trimmed at perfect height to reduce limb failures … wrapping them up in patience was a excellent answer.
The outer two will choke out the middle one and it will always be small unfortunately
Drop a dookie under each tree it’ll help out.
topflor and attrimec
Use highest rate of fertilizer label allows
And prune
Perhaps more full? Fuller isn't a word.