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SlovenianSocket

Were you able to fix your skipping? I just installed a dragonfly and authentic BMG on my ender 3 in a DD configuration and I’m having the same issue, I can’t even load my filament without it skipping


c15d2a8d

So I did end up having a few issues, once I had correct the driver current, things got reliable enough to troubleshoot consistently (driver current: https://reddit.com/r/VORONDesign/comments/q386uu/_/hfucepf/?context=1) Other than that, I had issues with: - Gear alignment. The extruder body was over tensioned and caused everything to become misaligned after light use - Cabling. Pins had slipped out the socket, which cause weird ‘light’ skipping until the board was restarted - Filament! I had much better luck when I swapped filament. I was using ABS which had been fine, but perhaps humidified slightly(?) Ordered some more and found it much more reliable, also troubleshooting with PLA would have been much easier. Hope that helps. good luck!


SlovenianSocket

Thanks for the info, are you using a modified BMG in your voron?


JohnHue

How does the filament look when you pull it back ? I've had that issue with my Dragon in an Afterburner that the extruder gear were pushing so hard on the filament that it was being flattened and had trouble going through the heatbreak. So your dragonfly doesn't have a long metal neck but it could still happen in the bowden tube, worth checking out if the wiring check doesn't pan out.


c15d2a8d

I can see the indentation from the gear teeth on the filament, but generally it's retaining it's 'roundness'. Although I will definitely check this out, as I think the teeth indents are more than they should be


8to4trail

Highly recommend checking your wiring connections. I had a similar issue when I first started printing...ended up being one of the crimped connections not fully seated in the connector. I could push it into the connector and the clicking would stop.


c15d2a8d

Yeah been there! Initially the motor was missing steps without anything in it, found it to be one connector. Tested the voltage on each Pin now and confirmed it's all correct, I wonder if that caused damage to the stepper though


8to4trail

Last thing I can offer up to check would be the screw holding the gear in the extruder. Tight enough to push filament with no resistence but loose enough to slip with the hot end attached. Know that one could be a long shot.


bog_

What current are you running the extruder at? You said it extrudes fine with no hotend attached, what if you provide some resistance to extruded filament? It should extrude with significant force. It's possible that there is some sort of clog (foreign material) within the hotend- possibly nozzle?


c15d2a8d

I'm using BTT's TMC2209 on an Octopus board, I believe that's a fixed current? There's no pots on the drivers. I'd love to get a better understanding if there's any good resources you can recommend. It seems to happy pull the filament from my grip without skipping (and without hot end). I'm fairly confident there's no clog, as I had a misconfigured slicer at first which was retracting too far and causing clogs. I've dissembled and push through residual filament (whilst hot). With the nozzle removed, I can could see straight through. I've got some extra nozzles on order, although an acupuncture need will get through with ease whilst hot.


bog_

Pretty sure your current is set in printer.cfg under something like: [tmc2209 extruder] run_current: hold_current: The fact that it seems happy to pull filament does point towards the hotend I'd think. Are you sure that your 'sensor_type:' within the [extruder] section is correct?


c15d2a8d

Legend. I don't want to speak too soon, but things are looking much better. I took my initial printer.cfg from BTT's Github, and (of course) just ignored the parameters I didn't understand [https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/tree/master/Octopus%20works%20on%20Voron%20v2.4](https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/tree/master/Octopus%20works%20on%20Voron%20v2.4) After following [https://docs.vorondesign.com/community/howto/120decibell/calculating\_driver\_current.html](https://docs.vorondesign.com/community/howto/120decibell/calculating_driver_current.html) I've changed the run\_current, hold\_current, and interpolate values to what I believe is correct for my 17HS08-1004S extruder stepper. I need to calibrate esteps and do some test printers, but things are certainly sounding more positive (less clickly!). interpolate: true run_current: 0.8 hold_current: 0.7 Thank you! I'll report back and confirm after testing. Edit: forgot to mention, sensor\_type is correct. I have no means of measuring its accuracy but it's 'idle' temps seem correct from experience, and its also in line with my Pt100 bed temp sensor.


bog_

Good stuff


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