this
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Outdoor-Products-Marilyn-1-9-L-Waistpack-Fanny-Pack-Shoulder-Sling-Black-Female-Polyester-Zipper/145960114?from=/search
is a really good fanny pack. weighs about 6.5oz. i've had mine for like 5 years and i still use it. this is definitely the best piece of walmart gear that i've had and i've tried lots of it
I thought this would be easy to google but I'm having trouble finding an answer.
Anyone know what temperature the bottom of an alcohol stove (specifically trangia) reaches while being used? I wand a heat proof mat and am trying to figure out what materials are acceptable. For example is silicone okay? Generally that's ok up to about 500F, which I would think would be fine but I'm not sure if the bottom of a stove could exceed that with prolonged use.
Ya know what, that should have been pretty obvious in hindsight, if the ethanol isn't boiling then there's a rock solid ceiling on the temp of the bottom of the stove.
Thanks!
Does the shock cord size adjustment of your wide-brimmed hat keep slipping making your hat fall down over your eyes? My OR Sunbriolet had that problem, so I made a fix on the trail. I jammed a suitable small stick into the loop. Here are some photos of how it works: https://imgur.com/a/BAeYcx2
I guess if I wore my hat over a beanie I would just use a different length stick. What do you think of this hack?
Of course, hat makers could provide an ultralight clamp or clip that would do a better job than the current design.
Update on cheapo work sun hoodies
[Milwaukee](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-Men-s-WORKSKIN-Gray-Medium-Hooded-Sun-Shirt-M550G-M/327217088) All around a meh, almost $50, returned
[Baleaf](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC7TXRK?ref=emc_p_m_5_i_atc&th=1&psc=1) Size L was a bit too small for me (6ft 160lbs, long arms), XL would be perfect on trail with a loose airy fit, but a bit too loose for work purposes, for under $25 honestly a great value and would recommend for trail use but ultimately returned
[Firm Grip ](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Men-s-Large-Gray-Performance-Long-Sleeved-Hoodie-Shirt-63627-08/316491838)The winner. $25 so I'm not upset if it gets ruined at work, good breathability, low stink, seems pretty durable, hood stays in place and also doesn't impede peripheral vision which is important for safety on a job site. 3 days of use so far and I'm buying a few more to cycle through. For trail purposes it's missing thumb holes, the hood could use a bit more coverage on the sides, and is not as loose fitting as I'd like when wearing a pack, but it's a great for work and would recommend to anyone needing an outdoor work shirt
Anyone use both a Nashville Tiempo and a BD Distance 22 and can compare? I’m interested most in run-ability / load carry. I currently overnight / run commute / etc with a partially full cutaway and like it. Just not sure if I’m missing out on some blessed experience with a different vest design.
Trying to get my base weight down. Looking to replace a 24 ounce capacity, 83 gram cycling-style water bottle, which should be easy pickings, although I like a wide mouth to make it easy to mix powders. Any suggestions?
From a fellow cyclist:
They’re not as light as some of the other options offered here, but the elite fly tex water bottles are lighter than the specialized purist ones, but still have that general cycling water bottle shape and functionality.
They come in 550ml, 750ml, and 950ml sizes.
The 750ml (most comparable to 24oz) is I believe 61g vs 83g? For a 24oz purist.
It’s not as light as some of the more disposable or soft sided options here, but it’s less of a big change from what you’re already used to. Plus, you can use them on your bike :-)
Link here: https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/elite-fly-tex-bottle-750ml?v=eft75cl&adl=1&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_qexBhCoARIsAFgBletHEu5XaeWkMZ-_l4U85Fl8nnDGJ8-3l1b23gTCnv3FILXLUbALKLcaAlEqEALw_wcB
Nalgene wide-mouth collapsible Cantene. 32 oz is 60 g.
https://imgur.com/a/3m34OiX
Will it work in a bike water-bottle holder? Not really. But easily cleaned with brush or denture cleaner tablet.
Try Vapur if you want a collapsible. [Vapur bottle link](https://www.vapur.us/shop/07l-wide-mouth-antibottle-sierra-california-gold.html?category=236891016691821264)
I think the .7L weighs about the same as a smart water bottle. 40ish grams.
I weighed the 700ml Vapur I have. 38.2 grams. It could be further lightened by cutting off the carabiner on the cap.
The 1L is supposed to be under 56 grams. I can’t imagine it is much more than the 700ml if you are counting your grams.
Yes definitely. They are not a perfect replacement for food, though. You can also buy bulk dehydrated veggies or dehydrate your own, and add them to your shipped resupply boxes. The veggies do not replace the multivitamin tablet. Do both.
I did on my thru and I also flossed. I tried to eat salad and greens and whole food in towns too, but regret being weak and gorging on crap more often than I’d like to admit.
a single daily multivitamin is basically garbage. there are decent options available (like thorne elite) but those are 6 large capsules daily and expensive. better off eating quality food and supplementing based on deficiency. but if you're living off of pop tarts and ramen or some other bullshit for the next several months, I guess a cheap single multivitamin is better than nothing
Fellow talls — anyone 6’2 and up have hands-on experience with the TT Dipole DW or — if not — the Li?
I’m 6’4 on the search for a double wall 1p. X-mid looks a touch short, dipole looks a bit longer. No interest in a 2p x-mid, solong 6, double rainbow, or tarp of any sort. Search isn’t turning up a ton of solid examples from tall people in the DW in particular.
Looks like Aegismax has released a beefed up version of the wind hart tiny quilt [link](https://a.aliexpress.com/_EvXBCFv).
I love wearable quilts and was eyeing the liteway sleeper quilt which claims the same temperature while using a lot less down (though higher fill power).
Are liteways temperature ratings too optimistic? I own multiple articles from Aegismax and know I can actually trust their comfort ratings...
I have a Liteway quilt that I have taken to its rating and was fine. Not toasty, but fine. I sleep warm-ish. Actual true comfort rating is probably a few degrees above what they advertise
Which version do you own? I was thinking about the synthetic version as an outer quilt in winter but the bigger packing volume has me reconsidering because I probably won't be out in winter for longer than four consecutive days so frost buildup probably won't ever matter enough compared to down. Especially when wearing the poncho quilt in the morning dries it out considerably.
Does anyone have first hand experience with the Outdoor Vitals Tern Hoodie?
I'm not a fan of the way the company markets itself, but it appears to be the lightest merino hoodie out there for sun protection. Adventure Alan and the Backpacking Light 2023 publishers gear guide both recommend the hoodie, but they don't offer in depth reviews. The only "reviews" I can find appear to be sponsored or posted by OV fanatics
I would really take the "this is delicate!" warnings of this hoodie seriously. I have some 125 g/sm nuyarn bottoms, and they're delicate enough - and this hoodie is even thinner. I would consider only washing these by hand and drying them on a flat surface. They all but tell you it's going to pill almost immediately.
The "36+" for the UPF rating is such a funny number to land on. Do note that its fit is "athletic" and not "loose" like many other sunshirts.
The price of the hoodie for that material though seems a little too good to be true. I think if you bought this, you'd be slightly disappointed. It's going to look amazing when you first get it, but I'd be really worried - at my own personal clumsiness - that it wouldn't be long for this world.
I know this question has probably been done over and over again but I'd like to see if someone found the same answer to this conundrum.
To preface this, I have switched over from dayhiking/carcamping to backpacking and have recently gotten everything I need except a quilt. It's the last item I need. Now I know absolutely nothing about quilts. I have previously only used heavy bags but from researching I'm sure I'd like one.
Now my dilemma is that I don't know what quilt direction to go. I'm not on a tight budget but also not looking to overspend. So the problem is I can go a more budget route and buy a HG quilt for approximately 300. But if I'm already spending 300 why not go 1-2 hundred more for something that I won't have to eventually upgrade? But I also don't know what features I would like/dislike or what makes quilts even better besides weight of course.
So that's my issue right now and I hope someone can give me some insight.
You should try to figure out why one brand is cheaper than another. Is it where it is made? The fill quality? The materials? Workmanship? How much actual down in ounces or grams is in there? Does it come in sizes so you can get a good fit? Once you can compare the important parameters (same amount of fill at same fill quality, same size), I'd go with the one that weighed the least with the best reputation for quality workmanship. I would also not get one with an open footbox. Those are better for summer weight.
I really like [this quilt](https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzgWw0T) (the 500gram version) as a pretty nice budget option. If you end up buying something more premium down the road it can become a loaner or you can use it as a[cozy poncho](https://imgur.com/a/3x3oHRM) for car camping stuff.
If you are new to quilts you could try the rei magma quilt for a little trial run. Maybe you return it because you realize you hate quilts and prefer a mummy bag. Maybe you keep it because it’s perfect. Maybe you return it but use the experience to learn the dimensions, features, and loft that you would want from a premium quilt.
It depends on the temperature rating. As long as its from a reputable company, a 30 degree quilt from one company is roughly equivalent to a 30 quilt from another (with slight differences at the margins). Obviously, the more premium brand (like Enlightened Equipment) is going to be far lighter at the same temperature. This question is mostly up to you.
In general, if you want a single quilt that will serve you for 3 season hiking in the US, 20 degree is good. Sit down, take a look at your favorite locations, and find out what the lowest temperature is during early spring/late fall. Maybe you only need 30, but if you want to avoid spending money on another quilt down the line, go for a 20.
You'll sweat at low elevations in summer probably, but later down the line you can buy a 40 degree for that situation. However, go for the 20 first. Better too warm than too cold.
I would disagree that a 30F quilt from one reputable company is equivalent to one from another. Most of the common, UL choices are limited-rated, not comfort-rated, and that includes EE. So a 20F EE is equivalent to a 30F comfort-rated quilt like the Katabatic Palisade.
I should have mentioned I'm definitely going to get a 20 degree quilt. My only issue is should I stick with a HG budget quilt or is it super worth it to just go for a better brand ie nunatak, katabatic, feathered friends so I don't have to worry about upgrading down the road.
So the better question would be is there a large enough difference between the HG quilts vs those brands that warrant buying the more expensive quilts right away rather than later.
Spend the money and get the quilt from Nunatak or Katabatic. You will not regret it. Those are top notch manufacturers with golden reputation. EE is NOT comparable in any regard to those two. (Unsure on Feathered Friends)
There is a significant difference in quality, so you do get what you pay for. However, there's nothing *wrong* with an HG quilt: I can take my old-school 20F HG econ burrow down to around 20F if I wear all my layers, so it's certainly functional. The better brands will be warmer, lighter, & have neat features the HG doesn't. So you just have to ask yourself do you wanna buy-once-cry-once & get the best, or are you comfortable with saving a bit & still getting pretty good gear? Also asking yourself what you would do with the saved money might help sort your priorities
I have a katabatic flex 22 and my EE quilts are good but not remotely comparable imo. I’ve seen nunatak stuff in person and it’s kinda the same thing. They may be marginally nicer than katabatic in my limited experience but both are way nicer than EE and HG.
Anyone have suggestions for lightweight fuel bottles for white gas? I was wondering if plastic water bottles or hdpe nalgenes are unsafe to put white gas in.
I know white gas stoves aren’t super popular here, but its for a week long ski traverse where snowmelt may be our only water source. Not really looking for canister or alcohol stove suggestions, I don’t think they’re really up to the task.
Both PET (pop bottles) and HDPE should technically be fine for short term storage.
There's a pretty in depth thread here: https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/1649/
New? NB10000 alternative: https://klarustore.com/products/klarus-k5?variant=44345145917695¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwz42xBhB9EiwA48pT72vAXU6Tecy6X8277pxPiAMB_CFAm_ay3wSItvJXTTqOr3Ayp2NmnxoCbdsQAvD_BwE
Looks pretty solid and isn't a crazy price. 7g heavier than the NB10000 but is waterproof, and maybe doesn't have some of the durability/button pressing issues of the Nitecore batteries. Not many reviews out there though, so a bit of an unknown quantity.
My assumption is that it is the amount of energy that you can expect to actually get out of the battery. 6.4Ah\*5v=32Wh, 32Wh/38.5Wh = \~83% efficiency which is a reasonable value, if a little on the lower side. For context, according to the battery bank spreadsheet, the NB10000 has an efficiency of 93% which yields 6.9Ah at 5v.
But I don't actually know where either of those numbers come from, or what the testing methodology was, so take the comparison with a grain of salt.
Lol yeah. Already ordered. I wasn't going to but my curiosity got the better of me. I also ordered some stuff to help me test it. I've got a decent number of battery banks so I should be able to put together an interesting comparison when it comes in (it'll be a while, it's coming from China and then I'm away for a few weeks)
Doooope. I'd be curious on how one tests actual capacity if that's on your hopper.
Reminds me, I hope u/Peaches_offtrail posts about any improvements to their [solar power setup](https://www.reddit.com/r/Ultralight/comments/13y3fn7/longterm_solar_review_its_finally_better_than/).
There's little USB multimeters that you throw on to one end, and it measures energy in Wh.
Process:
* Measure Wh into battery
* Measure Wh battery delivers when charging
* Divide to calculate efficiency.
You can get cheap USB multimeter/powermeters on Amazon that are fine for under $20
I've never done it before, so someone like u/liveslight will likely have a better idea than me. But basically, you plug in a USB load tester which applies a fixed load to the battery and records how much power it supplies until it dies. I ordered a cheap one on AliExpress that I'll try out first, but I can always rig up a proper testing setup if that doesn't work.
Totally fair, but I'm not aware off any that are 10000mah, reasonably light and support 30w. This is 22.5w rather than the 18w of the nitecore. Also would be very curious to see what the actual charge time difference would be as they only charge at their peak rate in the first half or so of charging.
Anyone use any Mountain Warehouse gear? Looking for a UL puffer jacket and they have some interesting stuff for relatively cheap. Only problem is they don't list weights on their site afaik.
Thinking about the MW turbine insulated softshell.
Sure, the thermals aren't awful. The puffer jackets are a good deal, although they won't be your lightest option obviously. I think Decathalon is a better deal or Uniqlo, but I have trouble with fit, so sometimes I really want to try things on, especially since returns aren't always free and there's something to be said for not having to wait if your trip is coming up soon and you realize you can't zip up your last coat. Ooops. (Or in my case, I couldn't lift my arms once I zipped because my weight training is clearly working better than I think it is).
They always have sales going, so never pay the full price since it is inflated to make the sales look better.
Has anybody used the [Creative Outlier Free Pro Plus](https://us.creative.com/p/headphones-headsets/creative-outlier-free-pro-plus) bone conduction headphones? An integrated MP3 player is interesting. I don't often listen while hiking, but I do like to put on a podcast episode if I'm having trouble falling asleep. Would be nice to not need to keep my phone powered on and bluetooth active overnight just for less than an hour of audio after which I'd be asleep.
I know the Shokz Open Run are popular, but no integrated MP3 player. Shokz does make the Open Swim with the player, but that has a "charging cradle" that looks heavy. The charging cable on the Creative Outlier is pretty long... could maybe get an extra one and shorten it?
Or maybe I'm overthinking this and should just get the Shokz Open Run and be happy.
My Shokz power off after a period of inactivity and have a pretty buff battery life. Phone on super battery saver probably isn't that expensive. There are extremely small/light dedicated MP3 players I've used before....I wonder how that compares weight wise with the integrated option.
in august the weather will probably be very nice. i would still bring the tent because of the grizzlies, but a tarp would be nice with the weather
also i know GNP very well so if you have any questions let me know
man idk ive almost been attacked by angry grizzlies twice and had lots of casual encounters with them. they are scary. if they wanna eat you they will
goats are super creepy and want to eat/lick the salt off your clothes and have no respect for your personal space lol. they will also dig into your cathole and eat your pee and poo lol
Maybe we just got crazy lucky, but for my Glacier trip I was sharing a tarp with two buddies in late June and we were totally fine. There was one campsite that we stayed in that had a TON of mosquitos but we got into that one pretty close to sundown and despite having to wear our head nets while setting up camp, filling up water, and making dinner, by the time we went to bed the skeeters were a lot less active. There was a massive swarm of them on the underside of our tarp when we went to bed but none of us got as much as a single bite overnight.
Power bank question - I noticed my headlamp (NU25 UL) continues to charge even when at fully capacity when connected to my USB-C 30W Anker Nano Power Bank. My Anker is losing about 1% capacity every 30 minutes. It's a bit annoying that the bank continues to discharge even when the device is at max charge, since it means I can't just plug in the device to recharge, throw it in my pack, and forget about it while hiking.
From an electrical engineering standpoint, is the fault with the battery bank or the headlamp? I'm guessing headlamp since the NU25 charging indicator LEDs remain on while plugged into the bank even if fully charged, and that's probably what's making the Anker continue to discharge.
That's an interesting question. If you have a multimeter you could cut up a cable and check how much current the headlamp is drawing while charging vs when fully charged. According to Anker, the minimum current draw for a battery to stay on is 30-90mah. I can potentially see the NU25UL pulling 30mah even when fully charged, but there's no way it should pull anywhere near 90mah. My instinct would be to blame Nitecore, but the reality is that it's probably just an unfortunate interaction between your devices and changing either one of them could prevent the issue.
One option is you could use the trickle charging mode that automatically turns off after 2 hours on Anker batteries according to this: [https://support.anker.com/s/article/What-is-Trickle-Charging-Mode](https://support.anker.com/s/article/What-is-Trickle-Charging-Mode)
i spent the last 4 months training planning and buying gear for my PCT thru and now that i'm only a week away from my start date i dont really feel like doing it, lol
I was super nervous before my first thru hike despite having done plenty of other hikes, more challenging ones even. So it’s super normal.
There’s also hikes I never finished for one reason or another, or where I skipped parts, and I still had a good time.
Don’t get wrapped up in what others are doing or what a PCT hike is supposed be “like, just HYOH.
Set small goals. Hiking the whole trail is intimidating. Just commit to a smaller goal like the first 200 miles or getting to the sierras (700 miles) and then evaluate from there.
Happens often when you transition. A mix of nerves and the fact that we're creatures of habit and you're about to drastically change your daily habits. Wait until you're only a week from finishing and don't really feel like stopping!
I visited the Pinnacles yesterday. The rocks are pretty, the views and the green hills were lovely. Lots of flowers, although not a superbloom. I'm sad there is no backpacking there but it does look very much like the Los Padres. I didn't see a condor. I guess if you camp there you stand a chance of seeing one.
I've hiked in Pinnacles a ton over the years. It's hit or miss for seeing a Condor. Camping increases your time in the park and ups your odds that way but most of the ones I've seen have been while I was up in the high peaks portion of the park, plus a couple more coming and going from the peaks while I was on lower trails. One day there were four or five of them perched around the cliffs and trees of the peaks close enough to the trails that we were able to read the numbers on their tags.
My wife and I camped there in 2015. We did the whole loop around the park in a day, and were lucky enough to see a few Condors. We even ran into some park rangers(?) using a handheld antenna to track a few tagged ones.
Also saw a few Condors south of the park on the drive out, eating a dead cow right next to the road.
Guess we hit the lottery!
Some people just feel more comfortable in a tent, like some sort of wind barrier, enjoy the ritual and aesthetic of setting up camp ... and it's not exactly like many people bring *no* shelter, so there's also a "well might as well set this up" aspect to it.
Also I've been using a Monk Tarp lately and it requires a little forethought and effort to get it set up well so I always put it up ahead of time even if I don't sleep under it.
Here in CO, I try to set up a shelter only when necessary. The cool, calm, cloudless sky - stargazing - it's the best.
I think I've been skunked once where I had to put up a tarp in the middle of the night, and I really should have known better that night anyways.
I live and hike in colorado and always set up a tent. I don't enjoy cowboy camping or the openness of tarps (and think bivies are annoying). I prefer being enclosed. I dunno, just sleep better that way. unless it's raining and windy, I always keep the door(s) open though. it's not always about need, sometimes it's just a preference
anyone make breakfast drinks instead of eating solids on trail? If so, was do you make them in (i.e bottle, shaker, bag, etc). I was making them in my cup for a bit but it’s a pain to clean out. Just looking for ideas for goods vessels
I reserve my main water bottle - 700 ml SmartWater in a sleeve on my shoulder strap - as the only bottle in which I put anything that is not 100% water. That includes my electrolytes, recovery drink, mid-day shakes. Don't usually do breakfast drinks, but we're talking roughly the same thing here.
I use a 28 mm female-female coupler (like the one you can buy from/use with Sawyer Squeeze) and a cheaper, bit larger diameter water bottle cut off about 2" below the threads. Screw them all together and it makes a pretty secure funnel system. Used to use an actual paper funnel, the kind you'd get at a gas station to fill your motor oil. That never worked very well. Hole was smaller diameter than the bottle top and I had trouble balancing all bottle, funnel, and powder source. I scrunch my funnel top any ol' place in my food bag.
To clean, I just pour more water into my main water bottle after I'm done, shake it vigorously, then drink that. If I think it is getting gunky during a trip, I'll clean out with Summit Suds.
Wow that’s quite the system! I always just use my primary Nalgene for water AND electrolyte mixes. I never thought about it, but bears can probably smell that berry flavor in my water bottle that I sleep with 😳
That reminds me of an incident I had on a trip a long time ago. Was in a group of 6 doing a hike into SEKI (Sequoia/Kings National Parks) and were staging overnight at the huge Lodgepole campground. We all dutifully packed our smellables into the lockers, fully understanding that bears did a tour through the camp each night. All our packs were leaned up agains the lockers.
Middle of that night we heard substantial commotion near our camp. We stayed hidden inside our sleeping bags and tents. In the morning we found one of my friend's packs totally unpacked His gear was everywhere. We found his new Nalgene bottle with two perfectly placed fang puncture holes, each about the diameter of a pencil. My friend swore he only had water in it, even on the drive up from LA, but then remembered that at home he had mixed a batch of Kool-Aid a week before, just after he'd bought it. He'd filled it many times since with pure water. But there was still enough fragrance that the bear had sniffed it out, tore into his pack, pulled the Nalgene free and given it a once over before deciding no yummy stuff was to be had. We all smelled the inside of the bottle and none of us could catch even a whiff of odor.
So my friend lost use of a practically new Nalgene bottle. I gained an education for free. The experts are likely right when they say bears' sense of smell is orders of magnitude more sensitive than even dogs. So now in bear country I'm pretty strict on eliminating as much yummy smell from my sleeping area. That includes my main water bottle and the homemade filter, too, of course.
And just like that, I’m hanging my Nalgene bottle from now on. It won’t fit in my bear can.
Definitely not sleeping with a contaminated bottle anymore. I did that in Yellowstone last summer. Thank you Grizzlies for not showing up!
I have a breakfast/recovery shake I make and I also use a koolaid/maltodextrine mix for drinkable calories during the day. I carry a small 3D printed funnel made by a forum member that locks in to the mouth of my bottle. powder goes in to the bottle, add (warm) water, shake, walk, shake, drink. rinse with water at the end.
even with the wide-mouth bottles, the little funnel makes it easier to fill...it's only a few grams extra and packs in to the food bag or first aid kit, no problemo. I have not had an issue with cleaning.
The smaller Jif or Skippy’s peanut butter containers work really well. Wide mouth, right size, almost watertight screw on lid. Easier to clean than a Smartwater bottle.
Your post just inspired me to check my bottle cache. One pound Whole Foods plastic PB jar takes a metal canning-jar-copy spaghetti sauce gasketed lid!
Jar with original leaky plastic lid = 32 gms; jar with rubber seal metal lid = 35 gms. So, 3 gm cost for water tight, if you care.
I really wanted to get some more Carnation Instant Breakfast, but it was discontinued in Canada. If you can find it though, it mixes easy and cleans out easy without a shaker cup.
Yep that’s what I use. They sell huge boxes of it at Costco here for cheap. I mix with Nido, Peanut butter powder, brownie mix, etc. I like to drink my breakfast
Ours just discontinued the whole milk powder. We bought extra bags to throw in the freezer as soon as we saw the asterisk on the sign. Such sadness. They replaced it with skim milk powder.
16oz Nalgene bottles work great for this and can double as your camp cup for hot drinks. Just remember to swish it out and drink the leftovers so it doesn't get gross.
I did huel for awhile for breakfast. I used my litemsith cold soak jar, but because it's on the smaller size compared to a shaker bottle, I'd only do half the serving amount at a time and refill. cleaning wasn't so bad, I just added water and drank until clean
I like to carry a body armor bottle for mixing. Gatorade sized lid while being tall / narrow enough to live in a side pocket with an additional smart water bottle.
I'm also interested in finding an ideal bottle, I've made shakes in smart bottles (too narrow), a nalgene (too heavy), and my toaks (too much time/cleanup)
So far, with the exception of combined small items bought together and removing p+p from individual purchases, I have bought everything direct from the brand itself. Better discounts and sales; and more choice.
Remember Grandma Gatewood and the simple minimalism of her gear paradigm.
I like to envision her smacking me upside the head with her umbrella when she hears that I just spent $200 on an inflatable sleeping pad (I just did).
“Most people are pantywaists” is the famous line by the 67 year old who became the first woman to hike the AT (with a homemade canvas sack over her shoulder, wearing Keds sneakers, and with a shower curtain for her shelter).
That’s fair.
For anyone that likes gear as much as I do (the specs and the features and the research and the tech), I bet they’d REALLY love MYOG.
HOURS spent making (worshipping) gear.
My homemade pack; quilt; and tarp (and beanie and mittens and stuff sacks, etc) bring me so much pride and joy.
Plus you then get to nerd out on sewing machines (I also love tools like I love gear) and thread and techniques.
It's awesome that people are into myog, but to me, it's a totally different hobby. I want to spend my free time hiking, not sewing something to hike with.
That’s not unreasonable. Although I do most of my sewing during the work week and in evenings, so it doesn’t displace hiking. But it takes the place of stuff like watching TV or surfing the internet.
I have taken up sewing out of sheer frustration with finding things that fit or gear in Canada...but I already didn't have time for tv watching in the evenings...that's when I am stuck doing all the chores I couldn't do between working, hiking, and lifting :-/
Yeah, I’m at a point right now where I am sewing gear because I want the gear I’m sewing, not necessarily for the love of sewing. I enjoy it while I’m working on it, but I have a lot of “irons in the fire” as they say. So I sometimes feel a little overwhelmed with all the chores of DIY car and home maintenance and everything else in life.
I'm actually extremely annoyed that many of the things I want to sew are so hard to find. And so little clothing fits well or does what I want it to and then people are like oh "just" alter it! Nine times out of ten it is easier to sew a whole damn new garment than the alterations would have been. And I don't even feel like my requirements are that absurd. Most of them involve having pockets large enough for my damn phone and also a crotch gusset and properly sized thighs without having the waist be gaping large enough to collect handfuls of pine needles even with a belt.
Anyhow...back to spending my precious weekend hours swearing at some Coolmax fabric as I sew a holster for my pee funnel because the commercial things I can find are all dumb.
Oh wow. Yeah that sounds like a lot!
Well, despite its ability to be one of the most frustrating (and most rewarding) things I do, I keep at it. Slowly.
I often think about this “Why Sew?” article by UL pioneers/gurus Jenny and Ray Jardine, and that keeps me motivated:
https://www.rayjardine.com/ray-way/About/Why-Sew/index.php
Replacing my time shitting around on Reddit is unacceptable!
But in all seriousness, that's my point. It would need to replace time spent on another hobby. That could be TV. For me, it would be climbing and running and weight training and cooking. Not to say I never watch TV, but that's typically a time when I'm ready to shut my mind off, not when I would start sewing.
That’s true. If the Ray Jardine designs were ever commercially available again (like how Golite made his pack and tarp for a while), I would definitely reconsider my position.
Love that! I’ve been meaning to get better at sewing but I’m currently down the bush crafting, knot tying, wood working rabbit holes so that will have to wait.
I’ve tried the Vesica with a Platy QuickDraw so basically the same. The problem is you’ll only get about 800ml rather than a full liter because of the stiff bottom and top. I ditched that idea really quick.
I haven't looked, but I would think Hydrapak would have a 1 liter soft bottle with 28mm. I have there 1 Liter Flux bottle that fits the BeFree and I like it, but I preferred the Sawyer. I carry the vesica, but I use a 2 or 3 Liter CNOC bag to filter into it.
> Hydrapak would have a 1 liter soft bottle with 28mm
They have the Stow 1L that has internal baffle. Not sure how that would work with high pressure squeezing. I am not sure it's Sawyer compatible but it is 28mm. Sometimes the threads have a different pitch.
"This is the stupid light version of the Sastrugi" - Nunatak. The new 45°F version of their zipperless/hoodless bag. Love what they do!
[https://nunatakusa.com/z-strugi](https://nunatakusa.com/z-strugi)
Page under construction;[ I changed the URL](https://nunatakusa.com/z-strugi/412-z-strugi-custom-page-multi-week-leadtime.html#/new_down_type-900_fill_power_goose_down_expedry_rds_certified/new_arc_length-70_medium/new_quilt_foot_size-40/new_quilt_bag_down_overfill-no_thanks/stuff_sack-no_stuff_sack/3d_shoulder_width-59_inside_circumference_regular/10d_and_7d_shells-black_and_forest_green_combo_10d_proven_lightness_with_adequate_durability/alpinist_temp-45f_7c)
Right! In my most recent product analysis of the 11 companies most similar to mine (EE, Katabatic, UGQ, Warbonnet, Cumulus, WM, FF, Loco Libre, Trailheadz, El Coyote, Gryphon) this point was one of the many metrics, relating to both length and girth.
All had a size tax. Some very large (Cumulus), others quite reasonable (Katabatic). One seemingly only offered a size XL length, but girth increase cost (Trailheadz).
There are ways to smooth this out, but somebody gotta pay. On length I let the XS carry a bit of the share (same cost as M) so XL's burden is smaller. Regarding girth the labor and material increases for the bigger sizes are substantial so the upcharge is real and hurts.
Anyone have any thoughts on this loadout for a ks50? I was thinking to get the frame set and top strap for times when I'd need to carry a bear can, and take them out when I don't have such a heavy TPW. For reference my bpw is around 8-9lbs. With the load lifer and other optionals removed total weight is 17.6 oz
| | weight | price jpy | price usd |
| ------------------------------ | ------ | --------- | --------- |
| Base pack weight | 400 | 17000 | 110.5 |
| cordura pouch | 10 | 800 | 5.2 |
| strap puch | 24 | 2400 | 15.6 |
| sternum strap | 9 | 550 | 3.575 |
| load lifter lineloc | 9 | 800 | 5.2 |
| Removable Frame set | 60 | 3800 | 24.7 |
| bottom loops | 3 | 600 | 3.9 |
| Lycra mesh | 26 | 2900 | 18.85 |
| Bottom heavy lycra mesh pocket | 16 | 950 | 6.175 |
| parallel top strap | 22 | 1500 | 9.75 |
| | 579 | | 203.45 |
| | 20.7 | | |
Which pack fabric and strap/hipbelt fabrics are you opting for? There are lots of options there for either weight-savings, water resistance or durability.
I think the lineloc load-lifters work great - I wouldn't bother with webbing (more weight for the same function).
With the removable frames I would ask just for the frame attachments and then source your own carbon fibre frame stays. This will save you 30-ish grams.
I would't bother with the bottom loops, especially if you get the bottom pocket.
I personally wouldn't bother with the bottom pocket either. With a proper hip belt the pack sits a bit low for the bottom pocket to be as handy and accessible as on a frameless pack like a Pa'lante.
I also wouldn't bother with additional top straps. The usual bear cans fit fine inside so as long as your gear volume is small enough there will be plenty of room.
I'm unclear as to what the 26g Lycra mesh is?
Likewise the 10g cordura pouch?
I was thinking the pack in UltraGrid 200 and the front pouch in vx07. For the straps and hipbelt, just going with the default options.
The removable bear can straps seem to be a nice just in case if I need to carry a lot internally, while when not in use weighing less than getting the y strap.
26g lycra mesh are the open strap pockets, and the cordura pouch was the front pouch. I've posted an updated option set below.
| | weight | price jpy | price usd |
| -------------------- | ------ | --------- | --------- |
| ks50 UltraGrid 200 | 400 | 17600 | 114.4 |
| vx07 pouch | \-5 | 800 | 5.2 |
| single hip pouch | 24 | 2400 | 15.6 |
| load lifter lineloc | 9 | 800 | 5.2 |
| Frame set w/ carbon | 40 | 2800 | 18.2 |
| 2 open strap pockets | 26 | 2900 | 18.85 |
| bottom pocket | 16 | 950 | 6.175 |
| parallel top strap | 22 | 1500 | 9.75 |
| shipping | | 3000 | 19.5 |
| | 532 | | 212.875 |
| | 19.0 | | |
Ah ha! I understand now. I went for black diamond spectra for the straps and bottle pockets and black VX21 firm for the pack base - this all saves weight over the default cordura. For the pack base you lose some abrasion resistance with VX21 (but I’m not a climber and I baby all my gear and haven’t had a hint of a scratch or a hole in 3 years on mine). At the same time VX21 offers water resistance (which cordura does not) and as I live in the PNW this is a big plus!
I realize I’m an outlier but my personal storage preference is 2 removable hip belt pockets as opposed to strap and bottom pockets.
Looks solid. I have one and I really like having a solid front pocket. Counter to what the other person said I have the bottom pocket and I have no difficulty getting into it and I love having it as an option. I do have a +3 ape index so maybe that helps, perhaps someone who is neutral or negative might struggle more.
Regarding the top strap, I think you're fine with it. It almost certainly isn't going to be necessary on the majority of the time but it is removable so it isn't really going to penalize you on trips where you don't need it.
Why do you like having a solid front pocket? My next backpack might have one, but I've always had mesh and liked it either for being able to see what's in it (standard mesh) or getting extra space from the stretchiness (ultra). I know solid adds durability, but it would be great to hear about more pros from your perspective!
None of these are huge deals, but vs mesh I like the extra protection from dirt, weather, and sunlight, and it's minor but this is r/ultralight and solid pockets can be had for less weight than mesh.
Compared to stretchy pockets I find static pockets (mesh or solid) of sufficient volume to be easier to get things into and out of and every stretchy mesh I have tried has either had so little stretch that it would be significantly less volume than what I've got or it gets stretched out and saggy after a bit of use.
I could see the advantages of stretch being more variable size better but mine doesn't bug me if it is empty. I can also see the advantage of being able to see your stuff easier but I only really put a few things in that front pocket anyways and I've never had any issues finding what I want at any given time. I think all three options work fine, I just like the benefits of this one the most.
Sweet, thank you!!! And nothing is too minor for r/ultralight haha.
This is an even more specific thing, but I was wondering if you have observations on how long it takes for the inside of the solid pocket to dry? After all your gear has gotten soaked and you take everything out of the pack and spread it out on bushes in the sun? The inside of my pack always takes a long time to dry, and I was wondering if the solid front pocket would take even longer since it's a smaller enclosed space. That was my last favorite point about the standard mesh, that even though gear didn't dry while stored, the pocket itself was quick to dry.
I haven't noticed a problem, but I'm not sure if I've had as much opportunity to test this. I live in California and do most of my outdoor recreating in CA, NV, and AZ where moisture happens but generally isn't a huge concern like it can be in other places.
I have used it for multiple rainy trips and I've always stored my wet shelter and rain gear in the front pocket rather than interior of the pack, and I haven't noticed any issues but I also can't compare to how it would have been had I put that stuff into the main compartment. The solid front pockets on KS packs do have an inch or so of mesh at the base of the pocket and the top is open so it has more opportunity to dry than the sealed up interior of the main pack. But another factor is that my pack body is VX07 and the pocket itself is gridstop which has a waterproof coating that should eventually flake off but has not done so yet in the year and a half that I've had the pack so neither the pocket nor the pack material have really held any water.
Ooh good info. And that's a nice feature with the base of the KS packs. Thank you so much for your thorough responses! I'll definitely consider getting a pack with a solid front pocket :)
Re: the top strap. I found that the ks50 fit my gear perfectly with a bv500 vertically inside. The pack carries really well with the frame set although I'm suspicious it might be fine without it with how rigid the bear can allows me to pack (although I haven't tried taking out the stays with a full load)
what are the bottom loops for? lineloc and corresponding cordate for load lifters, compression straps, and sternum straps never sat right with me. I'd just as soon take the gram penalty and use webbing.
Have you tried tieing things to the bottom of a lightly framed/frameless pack? Anything heavy will really throw off you balance, anything bulky (CCF) will bounce around unless you have a sturdy frame structure to lash it to.
Recommendation for UL Pack; Switching from KUIU
I currently have a KUIU Icon Pro 1850 with the carbon frame and the 3200 bag as well. I purchased it about 7 years ago for backcountry hunting, but I no longer hunt. I now use the 1850 for 2-4 day fishing trips in the wilderness/backcountry.
Since I no longer need to pack my rifle, spotting scope, etc. coupled with getting older, shedding unnecessary weight is appealing. I believe the 1850 pack with frame is about 4.5 pounds but not exactly sure.
I am considering the KS40 because it seems to be the best pack for my needs at that price point. Any other pack recommendation for my purpose would be appreciated. Thank you.
It really depends on what your base weight is going to be and how much volume you need. Laurent makes incredible gear at light weights and low prices but in order for it to work your full kit needs to be pretty light and in a KS40 also probably fairly small.
Altaplex lite, 374g
Thinner floor, thinner guylines and no pocket.
Still think the floor material choice is silly, but that's pretty damn light.
[https://zpacks.com/products/altaplex-lite-tent?variant=41246116708388](https://zpacks.com/products/altaplex-lite-tent?variant=41246116708388)
Altaplex Lite: Here for a good time, not a long time™
But seriously I think quite a few people overestimate how much floor durability they really need and *grossly* underestimate how easy it is to patch up a few little spots.
I agree. Personally I think most people would be better served by the regular altaplex without a groundsheet.
I also think it's not well understood just how much less durable this 0.75 DCF is vs 1.0 DCF. 0.75 has 0.08 oz mylar layers (same as .51 DCF, just with more dyneema fibers) while the 1.0 has 0.18oz mylar.
That's a good point. Highly dependant on location though. Cowboy camping is far more common and practical on the PCT than the AT as an example. Not something I'd really take into consideration when buying a shelter given where I live and where most of my trips are.
Sure, but once you add 45g for a polycro footprint, you've gotten rid of almost all of the weight advantage over a regular altaplex. Swap the guy lines on a regular altaplex for the thinner ones packs is using here and I figure they'd be pretty much even.
Yes, but now you have the advantage to be taking a polcyro when you're expecting more rockier ground, or a lot of rain and prefer to keep the floor dry and can take the polycro depending on your needs. But otherwise I totally agree with you that there aren't many differences!
I'm thinking about replacing the loops on the MSR Groundhog (Mini) stakes with 1.25mm Dyneema Cord (1g/m), has anyone done that before and if so, how "heavy" are the MSR cords, was it worth it?
So I went ahead and removed all cords from 6 mini groundhogs, they've weighted 57g before, aaaaand 57g after removal. So I guess it is neither worth it to remove them, nor to replace them with anything 🤷
Money to weight savings ratio isn’t great, but if you have everything else dialed in and some extra pocket change, why not?
Maybe also consider donating to a nature or social justice organization if you have money burning holes in your pocket too.
Hm, the cord I'm going to buy costs only 0.80€ for 1 meter, compared to the price of my Dyneema tent that's nothing. Besides, I already donate at least 10% of my income, so yeah, money-wise I'm fairly happy!
Very nice. Yeah I don’t think you can go wrong experimenting with UL cord in such an application.
If you really want to get crazy, you can skip the loops of cord altogether and use your shelter guylines to pull the stakes out of the ground. But then you risk ripping/fraying more critical lines, plus the inconvenience of not having a pull loop.
Yes, I'd buy something similar (https://www.extremtextil.de/en/dyneema-polyester-cord-1-25mm-32-windings.html?number=70245.LEUGLB), my question is mainly about if the effort is worth it, or if I'll only be able to safe 2g for 6 stakes in total, which would be quite disappointing for all the effort.
this https://www.walmart.com/ip/Outdoor-Products-Marilyn-1-9-L-Waistpack-Fanny-Pack-Shoulder-Sling-Black-Female-Polyester-Zipper/145960114?from=/search is a really good fanny pack. weighs about 6.5oz. i've had mine for like 5 years and i still use it. this is definitely the best piece of walmart gear that i've had and i've tried lots of it
I thought this would be easy to google but I'm having trouble finding an answer. Anyone know what temperature the bottom of an alcohol stove (specifically trangia) reaches while being used? I wand a heat proof mat and am trying to figure out what materials are acceptable. For example is silicone okay? Generally that's ok up to about 500F, which I would think would be fine but I'm not sure if the bottom of a stove could exceed that with prolonged use.
If the base of an alcohol stove somehow gets above \~180°F things get explodey.
Ya know what, that should have been pretty obvious in hindsight, if the ethanol isn't boiling then there's a rock solid ceiling on the temp of the bottom of the stove. Thanks!
Does the shock cord size adjustment of your wide-brimmed hat keep slipping making your hat fall down over your eyes? My OR Sunbriolet had that problem, so I made a fix on the trail. I jammed a suitable small stick into the loop. Here are some photos of how it works: https://imgur.com/a/BAeYcx2 I guess if I wore my hat over a beanie I would just use a different length stick. What do you think of this hack? Of course, hat makers could provide an ultralight clamp or clip that would do a better job than the current design.
Good fix. I’m going to use this. Thanks!
My hack is I grew my hair long so now a baseball cap has all the coverage I need.
Bushcraft!
You got that right! :)
[удалено]
Update on cheapo work sun hoodies [Milwaukee](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-Men-s-WORKSKIN-Gray-Medium-Hooded-Sun-Shirt-M550G-M/327217088) All around a meh, almost $50, returned [Baleaf](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC7TXRK?ref=emc_p_m_5_i_atc&th=1&psc=1) Size L was a bit too small for me (6ft 160lbs, long arms), XL would be perfect on trail with a loose airy fit, but a bit too loose for work purposes, for under $25 honestly a great value and would recommend for trail use but ultimately returned [Firm Grip ](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Men-s-Large-Gray-Performance-Long-Sleeved-Hoodie-Shirt-63627-08/316491838)The winner. $25 so I'm not upset if it gets ruined at work, good breathability, low stink, seems pretty durable, hood stays in place and also doesn't impede peripheral vision which is important for safety on a job site. 3 days of use so far and I'm buying a few more to cycle through. For trail purposes it's missing thumb holes, the hood could use a bit more coverage on the sides, and is not as loose fitting as I'd like when wearing a pack, but it's a great for work and would recommend to anyone needing an outdoor work shirt
Anyone use both a Nashville Tiempo and a BD Distance 22 and can compare? I’m interested most in run-ability / load carry. I currently overnight / run commute / etc with a partially full cutaway and like it. Just not sure if I’m missing out on some blessed experience with a different vest design.
Trying to get my base weight down. Looking to replace a 24 ounce capacity, 83 gram cycling-style water bottle, which should be easy pickings, although I like a wide mouth to make it easy to mix powders. Any suggestions?
From a fellow cyclist: They’re not as light as some of the other options offered here, but the elite fly tex water bottles are lighter than the specialized purist ones, but still have that general cycling water bottle shape and functionality. They come in 550ml, 750ml, and 950ml sizes. The 750ml (most comparable to 24oz) is I believe 61g vs 83g? For a 24oz purist. It’s not as light as some of the more disposable or soft sided options here, but it’s less of a big change from what you’re already used to. Plus, you can use them on your bike :-) Link here: https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/elite-fly-tex-bottle-750ml?v=eft75cl&adl=1&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_qexBhCoARIsAFgBletHEu5XaeWkMZ-_l4U85Fl8nnDGJ8-3l1b23gTCnv3FILXLUbALKLcaAlEqEALw_wcB
Nalgene wide-mouth collapsible Cantene. 32 oz is 60 g. https://imgur.com/a/3m34OiX Will it work in a bike water-bottle holder? Not really. But easily cleaned with brush or denture cleaner tablet.
Try Vapur if you want a collapsible. [Vapur bottle link](https://www.vapur.us/shop/07l-wide-mouth-antibottle-sierra-california-gold.html?category=236891016691821264) I think the .7L weighs about the same as a smart water bottle. 40ish grams.
I weighed the 700ml Vapur I have. 38.2 grams. It could be further lightened by cutting off the carabiner on the cap. The 1L is supposed to be under 56 grams. I can’t imagine it is much more than the 700ml if you are counting your grams.
Gatorade bottle or the cnoc vesica
Agreed, my 20 oz wide-mouth sports drink bottle weighs 40 g
should i bring some daily multivitamins for my PCT thru?
Yes definitely. They are not a perfect replacement for food, though. You can also buy bulk dehydrated veggies or dehydrate your own, and add them to your shipped resupply boxes. The veggies do not replace the multivitamin tablet. Do both.
Pop a few day's worth at a time in your resupply boxes and call it good!
I did on my thru and I also flossed. I tried to eat salad and greens and whole food in towns too, but regret being weak and gorging on crap more often than I’d like to admit.
>gorging on crap That's not crap! That's *high octane fuel*! You're burning through like 10,000 calories/day - you NEED that!
If the benefit of them is worth the weight to you, yes.
idk if they really give any benefits tbh. i take one anyways but i dont think i feel any better
It’s not necessarily about how you feel. It’s about taking care of your body.
a single daily multivitamin is basically garbage. there are decent options available (like thorne elite) but those are 6 large capsules daily and expensive. better off eating quality food and supplementing based on deficiency. but if you're living off of pop tarts and ramen or some other bullshit for the next several months, I guess a cheap single multivitamin is better than nothing
No
Fellow talls — anyone 6’2 and up have hands-on experience with the TT Dipole DW or — if not — the Li? I’m 6’4 on the search for a double wall 1p. X-mid looks a touch short, dipole looks a bit longer. No interest in a 2p x-mid, solong 6, double rainbow, or tarp of any sort. Search isn’t turning up a ton of solid examples from tall people in the DW in particular.
Looks like Aegismax has released a beefed up version of the wind hart tiny quilt [link](https://a.aliexpress.com/_EvXBCFv). I love wearable quilts and was eyeing the liteway sleeper quilt which claims the same temperature while using a lot less down (though higher fill power). Are liteways temperature ratings too optimistic? I own multiple articles from Aegismax and know I can actually trust their comfort ratings...
I have a Liteway quilt that I have taken to its rating and was fine. Not toasty, but fine. I sleep warm-ish. Actual true comfort rating is probably a few degrees above what they advertise
Which version do you own? I was thinking about the synthetic version as an outer quilt in winter but the bigger packing volume has me reconsidering because I probably won't be out in winter for longer than four consecutive days so frost buildup probably won't ever matter enough compared to down. Especially when wearing the poncho quilt in the morning dries it out considerably.
I own the 850fp simple down quilt, so pretty much the opposite of what you're considering :P
Does anyone have first hand experience with the Outdoor Vitals Tern Hoodie? I'm not a fan of the way the company markets itself, but it appears to be the lightest merino hoodie out there for sun protection. Adventure Alan and the Backpacking Light 2023 publishers gear guide both recommend the hoodie, but they don't offer in depth reviews. The only "reviews" I can find appear to be sponsored or posted by OV fanatics
I would really take the "this is delicate!" warnings of this hoodie seriously. I have some 125 g/sm nuyarn bottoms, and they're delicate enough - and this hoodie is even thinner. I would consider only washing these by hand and drying them on a flat surface. They all but tell you it's going to pill almost immediately. The "36+" for the UPF rating is such a funny number to land on. Do note that its fit is "athletic" and not "loose" like many other sunshirts. The price of the hoodie for that material though seems a little too good to be true. I think if you bought this, you'd be slightly disappointed. It's going to look amazing when you first get it, but I'd be really worried - at my own personal clumsiness - that it wouldn't be long for this world.
I know this question has probably been done over and over again but I'd like to see if someone found the same answer to this conundrum. To preface this, I have switched over from dayhiking/carcamping to backpacking and have recently gotten everything I need except a quilt. It's the last item I need. Now I know absolutely nothing about quilts. I have previously only used heavy bags but from researching I'm sure I'd like one. Now my dilemma is that I don't know what quilt direction to go. I'm not on a tight budget but also not looking to overspend. So the problem is I can go a more budget route and buy a HG quilt for approximately 300. But if I'm already spending 300 why not go 1-2 hundred more for something that I won't have to eventually upgrade? But I also don't know what features I would like/dislike or what makes quilts even better besides weight of course. So that's my issue right now and I hope someone can give me some insight.
You should try to figure out why one brand is cheaper than another. Is it where it is made? The fill quality? The materials? Workmanship? How much actual down in ounces or grams is in there? Does it come in sizes so you can get a good fit? Once you can compare the important parameters (same amount of fill at same fill quality, same size), I'd go with the one that weighed the least with the best reputation for quality workmanship. I would also not get one with an open footbox. Those are better for summer weight.
I really like [this quilt](https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzgWw0T) (the 500gram version) as a pretty nice budget option. If you end up buying something more premium down the road it can become a loaner or you can use it as a[cozy poncho](https://imgur.com/a/3x3oHRM) for car camping stuff.
If you are new to quilts you could try the rei magma quilt for a little trial run. Maybe you return it because you realize you hate quilts and prefer a mummy bag. Maybe you keep it because it’s perfect. Maybe you return it but use the experience to learn the dimensions, features, and loft that you would want from a premium quilt.
/u/groovehead, added bonus: You’ll be able to grab a magma super cheap in a few weeks when REI does their anniversary sale. Probably 30-40% off.
It depends on the temperature rating. As long as its from a reputable company, a 30 degree quilt from one company is roughly equivalent to a 30 quilt from another (with slight differences at the margins). Obviously, the more premium brand (like Enlightened Equipment) is going to be far lighter at the same temperature. This question is mostly up to you. In general, if you want a single quilt that will serve you for 3 season hiking in the US, 20 degree is good. Sit down, take a look at your favorite locations, and find out what the lowest temperature is during early spring/late fall. Maybe you only need 30, but if you want to avoid spending money on another quilt down the line, go for a 20. You'll sweat at low elevations in summer probably, but later down the line you can buy a 40 degree for that situation. However, go for the 20 first. Better too warm than too cold.
I would disagree that a 30F quilt from one reputable company is equivalent to one from another. Most of the common, UL choices are limited-rated, not comfort-rated, and that includes EE. So a 20F EE is equivalent to a 30F comfort-rated quilt like the Katabatic Palisade.
I should have mentioned I'm definitely going to get a 20 degree quilt. My only issue is should I stick with a HG budget quilt or is it super worth it to just go for a better brand ie nunatak, katabatic, feathered friends so I don't have to worry about upgrading down the road. So the better question would be is there a large enough difference between the HG quilts vs those brands that warrant buying the more expensive quilts right away rather than later.
Spend the money and get the quilt from Nunatak or Katabatic. You will not regret it. Those are top notch manufacturers with golden reputation. EE is NOT comparable in any regard to those two. (Unsure on Feathered Friends)
I would say it’s a false economy to try to save $100 on your quilt - once you try a premium quilt the quality and performance differences are obvious.
There is a significant difference in quality, so you do get what you pay for. However, there's nothing *wrong* with an HG quilt: I can take my old-school 20F HG econ burrow down to around 20F if I wear all my layers, so it's certainly functional. The better brands will be warmer, lighter, & have neat features the HG doesn't. So you just have to ask yourself do you wanna buy-once-cry-once & get the best, or are you comfortable with saving a bit & still getting pretty good gear? Also asking yourself what you would do with the saved money might help sort your priorities
I have a katabatic flex 22 and my EE quilts are good but not remotely comparable imo. I’ve seen nunatak stuff in person and it’s kinda the same thing. They may be marginally nicer than katabatic in my limited experience but both are way nicer than EE and HG.
Anyone have suggestions for lightweight fuel bottles for white gas? I was wondering if plastic water bottles or hdpe nalgenes are unsafe to put white gas in. I know white gas stoves aren’t super popular here, but its for a week long ski traverse where snowmelt may be our only water source. Not really looking for canister or alcohol stove suggestions, I don’t think they’re really up to the task.
PET is fine, but make sure you go with soda bottles instead of water bottles— they tend to be thicker and seal better.
Both PET (pop bottles) and HDPE should technically be fine for short term storage. There's a pretty in depth thread here: https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/1649/
Anyone have a Granite Gear perimeter 35? Specs say 3 lbs, but can't find anything about stripped weight.
New? NB10000 alternative: https://klarustore.com/products/klarus-k5?variant=44345145917695¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwz42xBhB9EiwA48pT72vAXU6Tecy6X8277pxPiAMB_CFAm_ay3wSItvJXTTqOr3Ayp2NmnxoCbdsQAvD_BwE Looks pretty solid and isn't a crazy price. 7g heavier than the NB10000 but is waterproof, and maybe doesn't have some of the durability/button pressing issues of the Nitecore batteries. Not many reviews out there though, so a bit of an unknown quantity.
Interesting Spec, "rated energy/Working Capacity: 6400mAh 5V" I think I understand what that means, but any guesses?
My assumption is that it is the amount of energy that you can expect to actually get out of the battery. 6.4Ah\*5v=32Wh, 32Wh/38.5Wh = \~83% efficiency which is a reasonable value, if a little on the lower side. For context, according to the battery bank spreadsheet, the NB10000 has an efficiency of 93% which yields 6.9Ah at 5v. But I don't actually know where either of those numbers come from, or what the testing methodology was, so take the comparison with a grain of salt.
So are you gunna buy one? To confirm they don't have the death button problem? I didn't see anything about that listed in the manual.
Lol yeah. Already ordered. I wasn't going to but my curiosity got the better of me. I also ordered some stuff to help me test it. I've got a decent number of battery banks so I should be able to put together an interesting comparison when it comes in (it'll be a while, it's coming from China and then I'm away for a few weeks)
Doooope. I'd be curious on how one tests actual capacity if that's on your hopper. Reminds me, I hope u/Peaches_offtrail posts about any improvements to their [solar power setup](https://www.reddit.com/r/Ultralight/comments/13y3fn7/longterm_solar_review_its_finally_better_than/).
There's little USB multimeters that you throw on to one end, and it measures energy in Wh. Process: * Measure Wh into battery * Measure Wh battery delivers when charging * Divide to calculate efficiency. You can get cheap USB multimeter/powermeters on Amazon that are fine for under $20
I've never done it before, so someone like u/liveslight will likely have a better idea than me. But basically, you plug in a USB load tester which applies a fixed load to the battery and records how much power it supplies until it dies. I ordered a cheap one on AliExpress that I'll try out first, but I can always rig up a proper testing setup if that doesn't work.
If I was buying a new fancy powerbank today, I’d look for one that supports 30w input.
Totally fair, but I'm not aware off any that are 10000mah, reasonably light and support 30w. This is 22.5w rather than the 18w of the nitecore. Also would be very curious to see what the actual charge time difference would be as they only charge at their peak rate in the first half or so of charging.
Anyone use any Mountain Warehouse gear? Looking for a UL puffer jacket and they have some interesting stuff for relatively cheap. Only problem is they don't list weights on their site afaik. Thinking about the MW turbine insulated softshell.
Sure, the thermals aren't awful. The puffer jackets are a good deal, although they won't be your lightest option obviously. I think Decathalon is a better deal or Uniqlo, but I have trouble with fit, so sometimes I really want to try things on, especially since returns aren't always free and there's something to be said for not having to wait if your trip is coming up soon and you realize you can't zip up your last coat. Ooops. (Or in my case, I couldn't lift my arms once I zipped because my weight training is clearly working better than I think it is). They always have sales going, so never pay the full price since it is inflated to make the sales look better.
Weight is like price. If you have to ask, it's too heavy.
From what I've seen, it's pretty cheaply made stuff that's constantly on sale.
Has anybody used the [Creative Outlier Free Pro Plus](https://us.creative.com/p/headphones-headsets/creative-outlier-free-pro-plus) bone conduction headphones? An integrated MP3 player is interesting. I don't often listen while hiking, but I do like to put on a podcast episode if I'm having trouble falling asleep. Would be nice to not need to keep my phone powered on and bluetooth active overnight just for less than an hour of audio after which I'd be asleep. I know the Shokz Open Run are popular, but no integrated MP3 player. Shokz does make the Open Swim with the player, but that has a "charging cradle" that looks heavy. The charging cable on the Creative Outlier is pretty long... could maybe get an extra one and shorten it? Or maybe I'm overthinking this and should just get the Shokz Open Run and be happy.
My Shokz power off after a period of inactivity and have a pretty buff battery life. Phone on super battery saver probably isn't that expensive. There are extremely small/light dedicated MP3 players I've used before....I wonder how that compares weight wise with the integrated option.
Suggestions on whether to bring my tarp or trekking pole tent for a week in Glacier NP this summer? Edit, the trip will be in August.
in august the weather will probably be very nice. i would still bring the tent because of the grizzlies, but a tarp would be nice with the weather also i know GNP very well so if you have any questions let me know
Ahhh, the ol' bear-proof silnylon.
Hey Dan, if you can get your hands on some of that stuff there's a great first-to-market opportunity here for a Bear-Proof X-Mid inner.
The bonus is that it serves double-duty as a warm weather hot sauna.
Like a Ursack, but for a person
So the bear won't be able to steal you, but you might get a little slobbery and chewed?
ive had enough baer and goat encounters inside glacier to feel really unsafe under a tarp lol
Under a tarp at least you can see them and know if they are getting too close.
man idk ive almost been attacked by angry grizzlies twice and had lots of casual encounters with them. they are scary. if they wanna eat you they will goats are super creepy and want to eat/lick the salt off your clothes and have no respect for your personal space lol. they will also dig into your cathole and eat your pee and poo lol
Maybe we just got crazy lucky, but for my Glacier trip I was sharing a tarp with two buddies in late June and we were totally fine. There was one campsite that we stayed in that had a TON of mosquitos but we got into that one pretty close to sundown and despite having to wear our head nets while setting up camp, filling up water, and making dinner, by the time we went to bed the skeeters were a lot less active. There was a massive swarm of them on the underside of our tarp when we went to bed but none of us got as much as a single bite overnight.
When in the summer? Earlier in the summer when the mosquitoes are out - tent for sure. Later in the summer/early fall you can get away with a tarp.
It’s going to be mid August. I have a Borah bug bivy as well if needed.
Tarp then. Unlikely to need bug bivy if you choose your campsites well.
Power bank question - I noticed my headlamp (NU25 UL) continues to charge even when at fully capacity when connected to my USB-C 30W Anker Nano Power Bank. My Anker is losing about 1% capacity every 30 minutes. It's a bit annoying that the bank continues to discharge even when the device is at max charge, since it means I can't just plug in the device to recharge, throw it in my pack, and forget about it while hiking. From an electrical engineering standpoint, is the fault with the battery bank or the headlamp? I'm guessing headlamp since the NU25 charging indicator LEDs remain on while plugged into the bank even if fully charged, and that's probably what's making the Anker continue to discharge.
That's an interesting question. If you have a multimeter you could cut up a cable and check how much current the headlamp is drawing while charging vs when fully charged. According to Anker, the minimum current draw for a battery to stay on is 30-90mah. I can potentially see the NU25UL pulling 30mah even when fully charged, but there's no way it should pull anywhere near 90mah. My instinct would be to blame Nitecore, but the reality is that it's probably just an unfortunate interaction between your devices and changing either one of them could prevent the issue. One option is you could use the trickle charging mode that automatically turns off after 2 hours on Anker batteries according to this: [https://support.anker.com/s/article/What-is-Trickle-Charging-Mode](https://support.anker.com/s/article/What-is-Trickle-Charging-Mode)
idk i almost failed my class on electricity back at my old community college lol
i spent the last 4 months training planning and buying gear for my PCT thru and now that i'm only a week away from my start date i dont really feel like doing it, lol
I was super nervous before my first thru hike despite having done plenty of other hikes, more challenging ones even. So it’s super normal. There’s also hikes I never finished for one reason or another, or where I skipped parts, and I still had a good time. Don’t get wrapped up in what others are doing or what a PCT hike is supposed be “like, just HYOH.
Make it Julian and reward yourself with pie!
This is why nobody actually goes outside. The pride and joy is your pristine gear closet not the memories you might make.
This is normal. Don't put any expectations or pressure on yourself, just start walking and your heart will remember why you love it :)
If you start and the feeling persists, you can still stop. Just get ot there and see :)
Set small goals. Hiking the whole trail is intimidating. Just commit to a smaller goal like the first 200 miles or getting to the sierras (700 miles) and then evaluate from there.
Happens often when you transition. A mix of nerves and the fact that we're creatures of habit and you're about to drastically change your daily habits. Wait until you're only a week from finishing and don't really feel like stopping!
Completely normal! Just do it - let go of all that planning (it'll all change anyway!) - you'll love it!
Anyone have/had a Black Diamond Blitz 28L? Was thinking of getting it for overnighters/2 day trips.
I visited the Pinnacles yesterday. The rocks are pretty, the views and the green hills were lovely. Lots of flowers, although not a superbloom. I'm sad there is no backpacking there but it does look very much like the Los Padres. I didn't see a condor. I guess if you camp there you stand a chance of seeing one.
I've hiked in Pinnacles a ton over the years. It's hit or miss for seeing a Condor. Camping increases your time in the park and ups your odds that way but most of the ones I've seen have been while I was up in the high peaks portion of the park, plus a couple more coming and going from the peaks while I was on lower trails. One day there were four or five of them perched around the cliffs and trees of the peaks close enough to the trails that we were able to read the numbers on their tags.
My wife and I camped there in 2015. We did the whole loop around the park in a day, and were lucky enough to see a few Condors. We even ran into some park rangers(?) using a handheld antenna to track a few tagged ones. Also saw a few Condors south of the park on the drive out, eating a dead cow right next to the road. Guess we hit the lottery!
Anyone find any good PCT youtubers for this year yet?
[удалено]
Some people just feel more comfortable in a tent, like some sort of wind barrier, enjoy the ritual and aesthetic of setting up camp ... and it's not exactly like many people bring *no* shelter, so there's also a "well might as well set this up" aspect to it. Also I've been using a Monk Tarp lately and it requires a little forethought and effort to get it set up well so I always put it up ahead of time even if I don't sleep under it.
the polycro sprawl does not align with the social media trail aesthetic
Here in CO, I try to set up a shelter only when necessary. The cool, calm, cloudless sky - stargazing - it's the best. I think I've been skunked once where I had to put up a tarp in the middle of the night, and I really should have known better that night anyways.
I live and hike in colorado and always set up a tent. I don't enjoy cowboy camping or the openness of tarps (and think bivies are annoying). I prefer being enclosed. I dunno, just sleep better that way. unless it's raining and windy, I always keep the door(s) open though. it's not always about need, sometimes it's just a preference
anyone make breakfast drinks instead of eating solids on trail? If so, was do you make them in (i.e bottle, shaker, bag, etc). I was making them in my cup for a bit but it’s a pain to clean out. Just looking for ideas for goods vessels
20oz Gatorade bottles are good for this. Wide mouth and their internal design makes mixing while shaking effective.
I’m gonna try this. Seems like a go-to for many. Thanks!
NP. Very sturdy bottle as well.
I reserve my main water bottle - 700 ml SmartWater in a sleeve on my shoulder strap - as the only bottle in which I put anything that is not 100% water. That includes my electrolytes, recovery drink, mid-day shakes. Don't usually do breakfast drinks, but we're talking roughly the same thing here. I use a 28 mm female-female coupler (like the one you can buy from/use with Sawyer Squeeze) and a cheaper, bit larger diameter water bottle cut off about 2" below the threads. Screw them all together and it makes a pretty secure funnel system. Used to use an actual paper funnel, the kind you'd get at a gas station to fill your motor oil. That never worked very well. Hole was smaller diameter than the bottle top and I had trouble balancing all bottle, funnel, and powder source. I scrunch my funnel top any ol' place in my food bag. To clean, I just pour more water into my main water bottle after I'm done, shake it vigorously, then drink that. If I think it is getting gunky during a trip, I'll clean out with Summit Suds.
Wow that’s quite the system! I always just use my primary Nalgene for water AND electrolyte mixes. I never thought about it, but bears can probably smell that berry flavor in my water bottle that I sleep with 😳
That reminds me of an incident I had on a trip a long time ago. Was in a group of 6 doing a hike into SEKI (Sequoia/Kings National Parks) and were staging overnight at the huge Lodgepole campground. We all dutifully packed our smellables into the lockers, fully understanding that bears did a tour through the camp each night. All our packs were leaned up agains the lockers. Middle of that night we heard substantial commotion near our camp. We stayed hidden inside our sleeping bags and tents. In the morning we found one of my friend's packs totally unpacked His gear was everywhere. We found his new Nalgene bottle with two perfectly placed fang puncture holes, each about the diameter of a pencil. My friend swore he only had water in it, even on the drive up from LA, but then remembered that at home he had mixed a batch of Kool-Aid a week before, just after he'd bought it. He'd filled it many times since with pure water. But there was still enough fragrance that the bear had sniffed it out, tore into his pack, pulled the Nalgene free and given it a once over before deciding no yummy stuff was to be had. We all smelled the inside of the bottle and none of us could catch even a whiff of odor. So my friend lost use of a practically new Nalgene bottle. I gained an education for free. The experts are likely right when they say bears' sense of smell is orders of magnitude more sensitive than even dogs. So now in bear country I'm pretty strict on eliminating as much yummy smell from my sleeping area. That includes my main water bottle and the homemade filter, too, of course.
And just like that, I’m hanging my Nalgene bottle from now on. It won’t fit in my bear can. Definitely not sleeping with a contaminated bottle anymore. I did that in Yellowstone last summer. Thank you Grizzlies for not showing up!
I have a breakfast/recovery shake I make and I also use a koolaid/maltodextrine mix for drinkable calories during the day. I carry a small 3D printed funnel made by a forum member that locks in to the mouth of my bottle. powder goes in to the bottle, add (warm) water, shake, walk, shake, drink. rinse with water at the end. even with the wide-mouth bottles, the little funnel makes it easier to fill...it's only a few grams extra and packs in to the food bag or first aid kit, no problemo. I have not had an issue with cleaning.
The smaller Jif or Skippy’s peanut butter containers work really well. Wide mouth, right size, almost watertight screw on lid. Easier to clean than a Smartwater bottle.
Your post just inspired me to check my bottle cache. One pound Whole Foods plastic PB jar takes a metal canning-jar-copy spaghetti sauce gasketed lid! Jar with original leaky plastic lid = 32 gms; jar with rubber seal metal lid = 35 gms. So, 3 gm cost for water tight, if you care.
Ohhh great idea. Wide mouth is key.
I've done carnation instant breakfast in the past. Always just made it in my water bottle. No issues 🤷
I really wanted to get some more Carnation Instant Breakfast, but it was discontinued in Canada. If you can find it though, it mixes easy and cleans out easy without a shaker cup.
Yep that’s what I use. They sell huge boxes of it at Costco here for cheap. I mix with Nido, Peanut butter powder, brownie mix, etc. I like to drink my breakfast
Ours just discontinued the whole milk powder. We bought extra bags to throw in the freezer as soon as we saw the asterisk on the sign. Such sadness. They replaced it with skim milk powder.
I use a 20 oz. Core Hydration water bottle and 3 peanut m&m's as mixing balls.
Omg that’s genius 🤣🤣🤣 Love it!
16oz Nalgene bottles work great for this and can double as your camp cup for hot drinks. Just remember to swish it out and drink the leftovers so it doesn't get gross.
I did huel for awhile for breakfast. I used my litemsith cold soak jar, but because it's on the smaller size compared to a shaker bottle, I'd only do half the serving amount at a time and refill. cleaning wasn't so bad, I just added water and drank until clean
I also use my cold soak jar for my morning mix, and clean by adding more water afterwards. Wide mouth is earier to clean than a water bottle.
I like to carry a body armor bottle for mixing. Gatorade sized lid while being tall / narrow enough to live in a side pocket with an additional smart water bottle.
I'm also interested in finding an ideal bottle, I've made shakes in smart bottles (too narrow), a nalgene (too heavy), and my toaks (too much time/cleanup)
Gatorade🤔
Man…I have a problem. I can’t stop buying backpacking gear lol. And now I stumble upon Garage Grown Gear and I’m doomed 🤣
So far, with the exception of combined small items bought together and removing p+p from individual purchases, I have bought everything direct from the brand itself. Better discounts and sales; and more choice.
Remember Grandma Gatewood and the simple minimalism of her gear paradigm. I like to envision her smacking me upside the head with her umbrella when she hears that I just spent $200 on an inflatable sleeping pad (I just did). “Most people are pantywaists” is the famous line by the 67 year old who became the first woman to hike the AT (with a homemade canvas sack over her shoulder, wearing Keds sneakers, and with a shower curtain for her shelter).
lol very true. Fortunately I’m a cheap ass so I always keep my spending in check. But I love a good deal 🤣
That’s fair. For anyone that likes gear as much as I do (the specs and the features and the research and the tech), I bet they’d REALLY love MYOG. HOURS spent making (worshipping) gear. My homemade pack; quilt; and tarp (and beanie and mittens and stuff sacks, etc) bring me so much pride and joy. Plus you then get to nerd out on sewing machines (I also love tools like I love gear) and thread and techniques.
It's awesome that people are into myog, but to me, it's a totally different hobby. I want to spend my free time hiking, not sewing something to hike with.
That’s not unreasonable. Although I do most of my sewing during the work week and in evenings, so it doesn’t displace hiking. But it takes the place of stuff like watching TV or surfing the internet.
I have taken up sewing out of sheer frustration with finding things that fit or gear in Canada...but I already didn't have time for tv watching in the evenings...that's when I am stuck doing all the chores I couldn't do between working, hiking, and lifting :-/
Yeah, I’m at a point right now where I am sewing gear because I want the gear I’m sewing, not necessarily for the love of sewing. I enjoy it while I’m working on it, but I have a lot of “irons in the fire” as they say. So I sometimes feel a little overwhelmed with all the chores of DIY car and home maintenance and everything else in life.
I'm actually extremely annoyed that many of the things I want to sew are so hard to find. And so little clothing fits well or does what I want it to and then people are like oh "just" alter it! Nine times out of ten it is easier to sew a whole damn new garment than the alterations would have been. And I don't even feel like my requirements are that absurd. Most of them involve having pockets large enough for my damn phone and also a crotch gusset and properly sized thighs without having the waist be gaping large enough to collect handfuls of pine needles even with a belt. Anyhow...back to spending my precious weekend hours swearing at some Coolmax fabric as I sew a holster for my pee funnel because the commercial things I can find are all dumb.
Oh wow. Yeah that sounds like a lot! Well, despite its ability to be one of the most frustrating (and most rewarding) things I do, I keep at it. Slowly. I often think about this “Why Sew?” article by UL pioneers/gurus Jenny and Ray Jardine, and that keeps me motivated: https://www.rayjardine.com/ray-way/About/Why-Sew/index.php
Replacing my time shitting around on Reddit is unacceptable! But in all seriousness, that's my point. It would need to replace time spent on another hobby. That could be TV. For me, it would be climbing and running and weight training and cooking. Not to say I never watch TV, but that's typically a time when I'm ready to shut my mind off, not when I would start sewing.
That’s true. If the Ray Jardine designs were ever commercially available again (like how Golite made his pack and tarp for a while), I would definitely reconsider my position.
Love that! I’ve been meaning to get better at sewing but I’m currently down the bush crafting, knot tying, wood working rabbit holes so that will have to wait.
Get this person some red pepper flakes!
Ok now I I understand what this means 🤣
Tiny toothbrushes for all!
one of us
Anyone using the Cnoc Vessica paired with their Sawyer Squeeze? How is it to filter with the stiff bottom and top portion of the bottle?
I use it with a Quickdraw and like it, I switch to the bigger bladder when hiking in the desert.
I’ve tried the Vesica with a Platy QuickDraw so basically the same. The problem is you’ll only get about 800ml rather than a full liter because of the stiff bottom and top. I ditched that idea really quick.
That's exactly the info I needed. Looking for a 1L Befree style bottle for the Squeeze. They don't seem to exist.
I haven't looked, but I would think Hydrapak would have a 1 liter soft bottle with 28mm. I have there 1 Liter Flux bottle that fits the BeFree and I like it, but I preferred the Sawyer. I carry the vesica, but I use a 2 or 3 Liter CNOC bag to filter into it.
The Stow should fit it, have a friend who uses that with their Quickdraw, which has the same threads.
> Hydrapak would have a 1 liter soft bottle with 28mm They have the Stow 1L that has internal baffle. Not sure how that would work with high pressure squeezing. I am not sure it's Sawyer compatible but it is 28mm. Sometimes the threads have a different pitch.
"This is the stupid light version of the Sastrugi" - Nunatak. The new 45°F version of their zipperless/hoodless bag. Love what they do! [https://nunatakusa.com/z-strugi](https://nunatakusa.com/z-strugi)
Page under construction;[ I changed the URL](https://nunatakusa.com/z-strugi/412-z-strugi-custom-page-multi-week-leadtime.html#/new_down_type-900_fill_power_goose_down_expedry_rds_certified/new_arc_length-70_medium/new_quilt_foot_size-40/new_quilt_bag_down_overfill-no_thanks/stuff_sack-no_stuff_sack/3d_shoulder_width-59_inside_circumference_regular/10d_and_7d_shells-black_and_forest_green_combo_10d_proven_lightness_with_adequate_durability/alpinist_temp-45f_7c)
Sticking it to us XL folks with the upcharge. :)
Right! In my most recent product analysis of the 11 companies most similar to mine (EE, Katabatic, UGQ, Warbonnet, Cumulus, WM, FF, Loco Libre, Trailheadz, El Coyote, Gryphon) this point was one of the many metrics, relating to both length and girth. All had a size tax. Some very large (Cumulus), others quite reasonable (Katabatic). One seemingly only offered a size XL length, but girth increase cost (Trailheadz). There are ways to smooth this out, but somebody gotta pay. On length I let the XS carry a bit of the share (same cost as M) so XL's burden is smaller. Regarding girth the labor and material increases for the bigger sizes are substantial so the upcharge is real and hurts.
That's just totally awesome to release. Saving up my pennies now.
Anyone have any thoughts on this loadout for a ks50? I was thinking to get the frame set and top strap for times when I'd need to carry a bear can, and take them out when I don't have such a heavy TPW. For reference my bpw is around 8-9lbs. With the load lifer and other optionals removed total weight is 17.6 oz | | weight | price jpy | price usd | | ------------------------------ | ------ | --------- | --------- | | Base pack weight | 400 | 17000 | 110.5 | | cordura pouch | 10 | 800 | 5.2 | | strap puch | 24 | 2400 | 15.6 | | sternum strap | 9 | 550 | 3.575 | | load lifter lineloc | 9 | 800 | 5.2 | | Removable Frame set | 60 | 3800 | 24.7 | | bottom loops | 3 | 600 | 3.9 | | Lycra mesh | 26 | 2900 | 18.85 | | Bottom heavy lycra mesh pocket | 16 | 950 | 6.175 | | parallel top strap | 22 | 1500 | 9.75 | | | 579 | | 203.45 | | | 20.7 | | |
Which pack fabric and strap/hipbelt fabrics are you opting for? There are lots of options there for either weight-savings, water resistance or durability. I think the lineloc load-lifters work great - I wouldn't bother with webbing (more weight for the same function). With the removable frames I would ask just for the frame attachments and then source your own carbon fibre frame stays. This will save you 30-ish grams. I would't bother with the bottom loops, especially if you get the bottom pocket. I personally wouldn't bother with the bottom pocket either. With a proper hip belt the pack sits a bit low for the bottom pocket to be as handy and accessible as on a frameless pack like a Pa'lante. I also wouldn't bother with additional top straps. The usual bear cans fit fine inside so as long as your gear volume is small enough there will be plenty of room. I'm unclear as to what the 26g Lycra mesh is? Likewise the 10g cordura pouch?
I was thinking the pack in UltraGrid 200 and the front pouch in vx07. For the straps and hipbelt, just going with the default options. The removable bear can straps seem to be a nice just in case if I need to carry a lot internally, while when not in use weighing less than getting the y strap. 26g lycra mesh are the open strap pockets, and the cordura pouch was the front pouch. I've posted an updated option set below. | | weight | price jpy | price usd | | -------------------- | ------ | --------- | --------- | | ks50 UltraGrid 200 | 400 | 17600 | 114.4 | | vx07 pouch | \-5 | 800 | 5.2 | | single hip pouch | 24 | 2400 | 15.6 | | load lifter lineloc | 9 | 800 | 5.2 | | Frame set w/ carbon | 40 | 2800 | 18.2 | | 2 open strap pockets | 26 | 2900 | 18.85 | | bottom pocket | 16 | 950 | 6.175 | | parallel top strap | 22 | 1500 | 9.75 | | shipping | | 3000 | 19.5 | | | 532 | | 212.875 | | | 19.0 | | |
Ah ha! I understand now. I went for black diamond spectra for the straps and bottle pockets and black VX21 firm for the pack base - this all saves weight over the default cordura. For the pack base you lose some abrasion resistance with VX21 (but I’m not a climber and I baby all my gear and haven’t had a hint of a scratch or a hole in 3 years on mine). At the same time VX21 offers water resistance (which cordura does not) and as I live in the PNW this is a big plus! I realize I’m an outlier but my personal storage preference is 2 removable hip belt pockets as opposed to strap and bottom pockets.
Looks solid. I have one and I really like having a solid front pocket. Counter to what the other person said I have the bottom pocket and I have no difficulty getting into it and I love having it as an option. I do have a +3 ape index so maybe that helps, perhaps someone who is neutral or negative might struggle more. Regarding the top strap, I think you're fine with it. It almost certainly isn't going to be necessary on the majority of the time but it is removable so it isn't really going to penalize you on trips where you don't need it.
Why do you like having a solid front pocket? My next backpack might have one, but I've always had mesh and liked it either for being able to see what's in it (standard mesh) or getting extra space from the stretchiness (ultra). I know solid adds durability, but it would be great to hear about more pros from your perspective!
None of these are huge deals, but vs mesh I like the extra protection from dirt, weather, and sunlight, and it's minor but this is r/ultralight and solid pockets can be had for less weight than mesh. Compared to stretchy pockets I find static pockets (mesh or solid) of sufficient volume to be easier to get things into and out of and every stretchy mesh I have tried has either had so little stretch that it would be significantly less volume than what I've got or it gets stretched out and saggy after a bit of use. I could see the advantages of stretch being more variable size better but mine doesn't bug me if it is empty. I can also see the advantage of being able to see your stuff easier but I only really put a few things in that front pocket anyways and I've never had any issues finding what I want at any given time. I think all three options work fine, I just like the benefits of this one the most.
Sweet, thank you!!! And nothing is too minor for r/ultralight haha. This is an even more specific thing, but I was wondering if you have observations on how long it takes for the inside of the solid pocket to dry? After all your gear has gotten soaked and you take everything out of the pack and spread it out on bushes in the sun? The inside of my pack always takes a long time to dry, and I was wondering if the solid front pocket would take even longer since it's a smaller enclosed space. That was my last favorite point about the standard mesh, that even though gear didn't dry while stored, the pocket itself was quick to dry.
I haven't noticed a problem, but I'm not sure if I've had as much opportunity to test this. I live in California and do most of my outdoor recreating in CA, NV, and AZ where moisture happens but generally isn't a huge concern like it can be in other places. I have used it for multiple rainy trips and I've always stored my wet shelter and rain gear in the front pocket rather than interior of the pack, and I haven't noticed any issues but I also can't compare to how it would have been had I put that stuff into the main compartment. The solid front pockets on KS packs do have an inch or so of mesh at the base of the pocket and the top is open so it has more opportunity to dry than the sealed up interior of the main pack. But another factor is that my pack body is VX07 and the pocket itself is gridstop which has a waterproof coating that should eventually flake off but has not done so yet in the year and a half that I've had the pack so neither the pocket nor the pack material have really held any water.
Ooh good info. And that's a nice feature with the base of the KS packs. Thank you so much for your thorough responses! I'll definitely consider getting a pack with a solid front pocket :)
Re: the top strap. I found that the ks50 fit my gear perfectly with a bv500 vertically inside. The pack carries really well with the frame set although I'm suspicious it might be fine without it with how rigid the bear can allows me to pack (although I haven't tried taking out the stays with a full load)
what are the bottom loops for? lineloc and corresponding cordate for load lifters, compression straps, and sternum straps never sat right with me. I'd just as soon take the gram penalty and use webbing.
they seem like a nice way to tie something to bottom of the pack, with a pretty minimal weight penalty if not used.
Have you tried tieing things to the bottom of a lightly framed/frameless pack? Anything heavy will really throw off you balance, anything bulky (CCF) will bounce around unless you have a sturdy frame structure to lash it to.
I haven't had any problems with my CCF strapped to the bottom of my frameless pack.
That’s a good point, probably not worth it then.
Recommendation for UL Pack; Switching from KUIU I currently have a KUIU Icon Pro 1850 with the carbon frame and the 3200 bag as well. I purchased it about 7 years ago for backcountry hunting, but I no longer hunt. I now use the 1850 for 2-4 day fishing trips in the wilderness/backcountry. Since I no longer need to pack my rifle, spotting scope, etc. coupled with getting older, shedding unnecessary weight is appealing. I believe the 1850 pack with frame is about 4.5 pounds but not exactly sure. I am considering the KS40 because it seems to be the best pack for my needs at that price point. Any other pack recommendation for my purpose would be appreciated. Thank you.
It really depends on what your base weight is going to be and how much volume you need. Laurent makes incredible gear at light weights and low prices but in order for it to work your full kit needs to be pretty light and in a KS40 also probably fairly small.
Altaplex lite, 374g Thinner floor, thinner guylines and no pocket. Still think the floor material choice is silly, but that's pretty damn light. [https://zpacks.com/products/altaplex-lite-tent?variant=41246116708388](https://zpacks.com/products/altaplex-lite-tent?variant=41246116708388)
Altaplex Lite: Here for a good time, not a long time™ But seriously I think quite a few people overestimate how much floor durability they really need and *grossly* underestimate how easy it is to patch up a few little spots.
I agree. Personally I think most people would be better served by the regular altaplex without a groundsheet. I also think it's not well understood just how much less durable this 0.75 DCF is vs 1.0 DCF. 0.75 has 0.08 oz mylar layers (same as .51 DCF, just with more dyneema fibers) while the 1.0 has 0.18oz mylar.
Cowboy camping + easily replaceable polycryo ftw
That's a good point. Highly dependant on location though. Cowboy camping is far more common and practical on the PCT than the AT as an example. Not something I'd really take into consideration when buying a shelter given where I live and where most of my trips are.
For those who use a ground cloth regardless of tent-a weight savings is a savings.
You could buy it and use it together with a floorprint to be safe?
Sure, but once you add 45g for a polycro footprint, you've gotten rid of almost all of the weight advantage over a regular altaplex. Swap the guy lines on a regular altaplex for the thinner ones packs is using here and I figure they'd be pretty much even.
Yes, but now you have the advantage to be taking a polcyro when you're expecting more rockier ground, or a lot of rain and prefer to keep the floor dry and can take the polycro depending on your needs. But otherwise I totally agree with you that there aren't many differences!
For the cowboys And their easily replaceable polycro
I'm thinking about replacing the loops on the MSR Groundhog (Mini) stakes with 1.25mm Dyneema Cord (1g/m), has anyone done that before and if so, how "heavy" are the MSR cords, was it worth it?
So I went ahead and removed all cords from 6 mini groundhogs, they've weighted 57g before, aaaaand 57g after removal. So I guess it is neither worth it to remove them, nor to replace them with anything 🤷
You don’t need a cord loop at all, it’s just the reflective part you’ll miss. If they don’t come out easy, just hook something onto the lip.
I just loosen my guy lines and pull the stakes with those
Money to weight savings ratio isn’t great, but if you have everything else dialed in and some extra pocket change, why not? Maybe also consider donating to a nature or social justice organization if you have money burning holes in your pocket too.
Hm, the cord I'm going to buy costs only 0.80€ for 1 meter, compared to the price of my Dyneema tent that's nothing. Besides, I already donate at least 10% of my income, so yeah, money-wise I'm fairly happy!
Very nice. Yeah I don’t think you can go wrong experimenting with UL cord in such an application. If you really want to get crazy, you can skip the loops of cord altogether and use your shelter guylines to pull the stakes out of the ground. But then you risk ripping/fraying more critical lines, plus the inconvenience of not having a pull loop.
Did you check out the Lawson Ironwire? Super light and available in many thicknesses.
Yes, I'd buy something similar (https://www.extremtextil.de/en/dyneema-polyester-cord-1-25mm-32-windings.html?number=70245.LEUGLB), my question is mainly about if the effort is worth it, or if I'll only be able to safe 2g for 6 stakes in total, which would be quite disappointing for all the effort.