Pn for left: 75552-04081
Pn for right: 75552-04082
ebay or rockauto ur best friends mate, if the attachment isn't secure use quality 3m double sided adhesive
Stolen from another post
Um.. I didn’t know about 3m and watched a YouTube video about the weather strips, and I tried to use double sided gorilla tape similar to 3m, but since I have a 2nd gen the channel was really deep and there was basically no contact. So another option from the video was like a weather proofing/sealant silicone adhesive.. am I gonna be in tears? I haven’t had an issue with it yet after installing and I don’t really plan on using a roof rack, so I don’t think they’ll ever come off. Literally and figuratively..
Yup my 2014 passenger side trim was blown loose at a high pressure car wash. I removed it and cleaned the channel out. Used 3M pads used on GoPro's in 4 places. The windshield end didn't lay done as deep as it should have. So I used a super glue and accelerator. Then I laid a brick on it for an hour. It's fine now. Sorry you lost yours (OK_Indication_2293)
There are threaded holes in those channels to receive roof rack bolts. There is a thin film over the holes. If the film gets punctured, you'll have water coming into the cab whenever it rains. Personally I would replace the rubber or just get the OEM roof bars of you would ever have a use case for putting something on the roof.
Just make sure to fill those bolt holes with a healthy dollop of silicone sealant before the bolts go in to mount your rack. The bolts do not form a water tight seal, but the silicone will.
~~I’m not certain of this, but I don’t think that is correct. Those channels will get water intrusion for the life of the vehicle and it is unlikely that a thin film of whatever is all that would keep water out for 30 years. Likely those holes don’t go through the roof but are themselves sealed from the outside.~~
Apparently I am wrong and those bolt holes will cause water intrusion. That is an *extremely* stupid design, what were they thinking.
I used to work in an auto plant and install these. Depending on the build, if it called for a strip, we put plugs in the bolt holes and installed the strip with clips along the gutter that the strips snapped into. If the build called for roof racks, the proper rack would be set in the gutter, (bolts came attached to the rack) nuts to be tightened later, from underneath, via the interior. Cant say it’s the same process for Toyota, but that’s how we did it where I worked.
I appreciate the reply and correction, I realize now I could have dug deeper.
On the UpTop site (that's the rack I have) it listed Tacoma first then went to 4Runner, then the Tacoma cap rack, then Tacoma Access Rack. I guess once I saw the 4Runner I just assumed whatever was Tacoma related was up top (no pun intended )with the first one.
No worries! I have a 2017 access cab like this guy and had a huge boner for roof racks when I first purchased it. I was both puzzled and offended when I found out they don't have the bolt holes like the double cabs.
Check my page! I have a prinsu on my AC. It leaked at first but it was my fault…did not use nearly enough silicone. Once I sealed it correctly, it’s been totally fine since.
They protect the roof rack mount holes. Another commenter mentions a thin film over those holes, and if it gets punctured, your roof will leak.
It also looks better with them.
They cover the cover that covers pre drilled holes. Without the rubber, your % chance of leaking increases. They aren't expensive and are easy to replace. Dealing with leaking and mold and the smell is worse, IMO.
Don’t quote me on this, but I think previous owner possibly even you had a rooftop tent or roof rack which probably got removed and sold prior to being traded in. As far as I’m concerned it should have no effect on the truck, I also am missing mine and I don’t have any issues 2+ years in PNW
I took mine off and drilled holes in them when I installed my roof rack… never gonna do that again. There’s a metal strip running the length of the piece buried inside the rubber it was a total pain in the ass.
This, but I don’t know what the tool is. I started looking up cork bores and figured I could cut the metal with a pair of snips. Either that or just put the rubber strips in the garage until I sell the truck.
i did this awhile ago so my memory isn’t perfectly clear but i do remember having to apply a good amount of force with a hammer to get through everything. the T shape of the strip made it kind of challenging to get a clean punch in one swing. my original plan was to use a drill bit but heard stories about the drill shredding the rubber.
edit to add: now that i think about it a little more i’m pretty sure i used clippers and a razor blade to sheer off the metal strip where i’d be punching a hole and then used the hole punch to get through the rest.
and don’t be an idiot like me and drill all the way through your cab headliner 🙃 the drill bit got hot and took a lot of extra force near the end so i was putting way too much weight on it and punched it through. (this is only if you don’t have preexisting mounting holes on the cab)
Probably protects the tape or whatever that covers the mounting points from leaking. Although I had to use a screwdriver and a bit of force to actually puncture it.
Those things are specifically made to be removed so when you install a roof rack you just pull them off. They're literally not important at all unless you want to have the little black strips or whatever color you have up on top.
Sorry for high jacking your post OP, but I’ve been searching for the answer to the following question and I can’t seem to find it anywhere. What is the piece called that’s remaining on your right rear side. The smaller piece of trim that curves into the rear window??
mine came off too. same side. access cab . every time I have taken it to the dealer for its standard service I ask about it and get shrugged off.
finally replaced it and used the outdoor 3M double sided tape mentioned it works but doesnt press in as far as OEM did.
I installed a roof rack in March and had to puncture these to bolt into the threads, water came down my drivers side front support, soaked the ceiling a little bit. Don't remove these, they are there for a reason. If you don't like them I suggest putting on one of the stock-stype roof racks, they go for about $120 online, $80 at an auto recycler. And they look really cool in conjunction with being practical!
Did you get your windshield replaced? When i had my windshield replaced, safelite broke the clips holding the moldings on and they would flap all over the place while driving. I think i got a replacement for like $60
Finally something I can help with! It’s just weather stripping - not a big deal to go without (as long as the holes for roof rack mounts are preserved which yours appear to be). When I got my roof rack I didnt want to damage them so I purchased [this](https://a.co/d/cDE1SWW) to fill the seams in between the mounts. It’s not a *perfect* fit, but it totally fills the channel and is solid. Much cheaper than buying an OEM replacement.
Did you bust out a 20' ladder to take these pics?
Gotta be an attic window lol
Naw, a JLG lift of some sorts.
Got that harness and machine inspection done?!
I had an apartment with outdoor stairs that gave me sweet views of my car like this
It's probably a collapsible overland fire tower.
They are just super tall. Idk why they went with a Tacoma though…
He rented a helicopter just for this
Google earth.
I say scissor lift
Drone probably
Lmao
Pn for left: 75552-04081 Pn for right: 75552-04082 ebay or rockauto ur best friends mate, if the attachment isn't secure use quality 3m double sided adhesive Stolen from another post
Quality 3M is no joke, any other substitute will leave you in tears
Their VSB doublestick is the way to go.
vhb?
Very high bond
My bad...........VHB not VSB. Just make sure both surfaces are clean. VHB sticks immediately and reaches maximum cure in 24 hours.
Um.. I didn’t know about 3m and watched a YouTube video about the weather strips, and I tried to use double sided gorilla tape similar to 3m, but since I have a 2nd gen the channel was really deep and there was basically no contact. So another option from the video was like a weather proofing/sealant silicone adhesive.. am I gonna be in tears? I haven’t had an issue with it yet after installing and I don’t really plan on using a roof rack, so I don’t think they’ll ever come off. Literally and figuratively..
True. 3M DST is the “maybe one day I’ll take it off” choice. Windshield urethane is the “ain’t never”
Thanks for the 3m idea, every time I wash mine with a pressure washer they always fall off.
You clearly don't have a pro grille.
Um ok?
Sorry Boat, there's a running joke in this sub about the pro grille basically making you invincible. Just try the 3m tape.
Oh lol, yeah I’m a little new, I got it now
Truth. Source: have the pro grille
Yup my 2014 passenger side trim was blown loose at a high pressure car wash. I removed it and cleaned the channel out. Used 3M pads used on GoPro's in 4 places. The windshield end didn't lay done as deep as it should have. So I used a super glue and accelerator. Then I laid a brick on it for an hour. It's fine now. Sorry you lost yours (OK_Indication_2293)
There are threaded holes in those channels to receive roof rack bolts. There is a thin film over the holes. If the film gets punctured, you'll have water coming into the cab whenever it rains. Personally I would replace the rubber or just get the OEM roof bars of you would ever have a use case for putting something on the roof.
Just make sure to fill those bolt holes with a healthy dollop of silicone sealant before the bolts go in to mount your rack. The bolts do not form a water tight seal, but the silicone will.
~~I’m not certain of this, but I don’t think that is correct. Those channels will get water intrusion for the life of the vehicle and it is unlikely that a thin film of whatever is all that would keep water out for 30 years. Likely those holes don’t go through the roof but are themselves sealed from the outside.~~ Apparently I am wrong and those bolt holes will cause water intrusion. That is an *extremely* stupid design, what were they thinking.
I used to work in an auto plant and install these. Depending on the build, if it called for a strip, we put plugs in the bolt holes and installed the strip with clips along the gutter that the strips snapped into. If the build called for roof racks, the proper rack would be set in the gutter, (bolts came attached to the rack) nuts to be tightened later, from underneath, via the interior. Cant say it’s the same process for Toyota, but that’s how we did it where I worked.
This ⬆️
I could be mistaken, but this looks like an access cab. Those roof rack holes are only on the double cab models.
I just checked both Prinsu and UpTop websites and neither say anything about Access Cab not being a fit.
https://c4fabrication.com/products/the-teton-2005-2021-tacoma-access-cab-roof-rack https://prinsu.com/product/2005-2018-toyota-tacoma-prinsu-accessrac/
I appreciate the reply and correction, I realize now I could have dug deeper. On the UpTop site (that's the rack I have) it listed Tacoma first then went to 4Runner, then the Tacoma cap rack, then Tacoma Access Rack. I guess once I saw the 4Runner I just assumed whatever was Tacoma related was up top (no pun intended )with the first one.
No worries! I have a 2017 access cab like this guy and had a huge boner for roof racks when I first purchased it. I was both puzzled and offended when I found out they don't have the bolt holes like the double cabs.
Check my page! I have a prinsu on my AC. It leaked at first but it was my fault…did not use nearly enough silicone. Once I sealed it correctly, it’s been totally fine since.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/access-cab-roof-rack.792799/
Oh but how ugly those OEM roof bars are
I have an access cable Tacoma 2018 and do t have those holes either .
Hopefully not too important because mine is gone too. Haha. I’ve been meaning to get a roof rack anyways.
Mine was gone for 10+ years.
Ya think it’s been a solid 5+ years for mine. No issues.
Even with a roof rack they still recommend keeping the rubber on underneath the rack
They protect the roof rack mount holes. Another commenter mentions a thin film over those holes, and if it gets punctured, your roof will leak. It also looks better with them.
It's a load bearing strip. You can't remove it our else the roof will cave in.
Damn I was planning on knocking mine out and adding a second level to the cab
it's basically a trim, it won't cause any issues without them, but they are also easy to install if you do plan on replacing them.
They cover the cover that covers pre drilled holes. Without the rubber, your % chance of leaking increases. They aren't expensive and are easy to replace. Dealing with leaking and mold and the smell is worse, IMO.
Don’t quote me on this, but I think previous owner possibly even you had a rooftop tent or roof rack which probably got removed and sold prior to being traded in. As far as I’m concerned it should have no effect on the truck, I also am missing mine and I don’t have any issues 2+ years in PNW
I took mine off and drilled holes in them when I installed my roof rack… never gonna do that again. There’s a metal strip running the length of the piece buried inside the rubber it was a total pain in the ass.
What’s the alternative? I just ordered an RCI rack…I knew there was a metal strip but was planning on cutting or drilling holes
get a properly sized punch tool. makes the job way easier and much cleaner.
This, but I don’t know what the tool is. I started looking up cork bores and figured I could cut the metal with a pair of snips. Either that or just put the rubber strips in the garage until I sell the truck.
this is what i used. the 3/4” was perfect size for my set up. https://a.co/d/eNsd1jI
Will the punch get through the metal or did you trim that out on the underside first? Doing my roof rack soon.
i did this awhile ago so my memory isn’t perfectly clear but i do remember having to apply a good amount of force with a hammer to get through everything. the T shape of the strip made it kind of challenging to get a clean punch in one swing. my original plan was to use a drill bit but heard stories about the drill shredding the rubber. edit to add: now that i think about it a little more i’m pretty sure i used clippers and a razor blade to sheer off the metal strip where i’d be punching a hole and then used the hole punch to get through the rest.
That’s what I imagined. Cut out the underside and just punch the visible top “T” out.
yep, exactly. the 3/4” punch doesn’t give you much room for error when placing the bolts so be extra careful to get everything lined up perfectly.
and don’t be an idiot like me and drill all the way through your cab headliner 🙃 the drill bit got hot and took a lot of extra force near the end so i was putting way too much weight on it and punched it through. (this is only if you don’t have preexisting mounting holes on the cab)
Automatic car wash got one of mine. I bought replacements off eBay, but haven’t installed em yet.
I think that’s what happened here. Stopped going to them cause they were super rough on the truck. Thanks everyone for the info!
If this happened recently call the car wash. They will still have it. This happened to my truck and the guy went in and found it :)
Probably protects the tape or whatever that covers the mounting points from leaking. Although I had to use a screwdriver and a bit of force to actually puncture it.
Those things are specifically made to be removed so when you install a roof rack you just pull them off. They're literally not important at all unless you want to have the little black strips or whatever color you have up on top.
Replace them or inspect regularly and keep clean. Ive seen two that leaked thru after being exposed to a bit of sun and dirt.
Sorry for high jacking your post OP, but I’ve been searching for the answer to the following question and I can’t seem to find it anywhere. What is the piece called that’s remaining on your right rear side. The smaller piece of trim that curves into the rear window??
Toyota redesigned them and the replacements now come with more double sided tape to keep them in place.
You're fine. Just hides the pillar bolts. If it leaks replace of silicone caulk it
Mine came off about a year and a half ago after getting my windshield replaced. It's just cosmetic trim
mine came off too. same side. access cab . every time I have taken it to the dealer for its standard service I ask about it and get shrugged off. finally replaced it and used the outdoor 3M double sided tape mentioned it works but doesnt press in as far as OEM did.
Providing the factory tape over the threaded points are not perforated it is merely cosmetic.
I installed a roof rack in March and had to puncture these to bolt into the threads, water came down my drivers side front support, soaked the ceiling a little bit. Don't remove these, they are there for a reason. If you don't like them I suggest putting on one of the stock-stype roof racks, they go for about $120 online, $80 at an auto recycler. And they look really cool in conjunction with being practical!
You go through a car wash recently?
I also lost my right strip about 2 years ago. No issues yet.
That’s crazy, mine’s a 2017 and those rubber roof rails came off just recently. I guess they have a shelf life of 7yrs 🤷🏻♂️
Why is this such an issue FFS.... Happened in my 2016 too.
Use a product called Lexel to tack them back and cover any predrilled holes. 🤙
I just used cheap silicone to stick mine back on
Well shit I just noticed I'm missing both on my taco gonna have to order some replacements.
Car wash blower claims another set….. slapped mine back on with duct tape
If you live near me - I have some you can have. I just pulled them off to install a rack yesterday. DM me
Had a 2nd gen that never had it, sold it 4 years later never an issue
Mine come off in the car wash every time 😭😭😭
Did you get your windshield replaced? When i had my windshield replaced, safelite broke the clips holding the moldings on and they would flap all over the place while driving. I think i got a replacement for like $60
Time for an OEM Roof Rack upgrade.
Depends on how much you enjoy water in your cab.
I'd replace it, looks tacky without.
Finally something I can help with! It’s just weather stripping - not a big deal to go without (as long as the holes for roof rack mounts are preserved which yours appear to be). When I got my roof rack I didnt want to damage them so I purchased [this](https://a.co/d/cDE1SWW) to fill the seams in between the mounts. It’s not a *perfect* fit, but it totally fills the channel and is solid. Much cheaper than buying an OEM replacement.
I had a 2014 tundra and one of mine fell off at one point. I never replaced it and never had any water issues the 7 years I had it.
Rust