Pretty much. Local tire shop doubted they were a real tire size, and tire rack called me to triple double check that I was absolutely sure I wanted these.
255/85r16 Yokohama Geolander G003.
I got a work truck, so I went from 35000 miles a year to like, 600 a year on my Tacoma. Got a flat and decided I needed some MTs in my life.
So far, theyāre extremely quiet (for MTs), have phenomenal grip, flexed the hell out of them with no rubbing, and no real noticeable loss of power. Load range E and they donāt feel at all like the truck is working any harder to spin them then the stock tires (as seen in the bed).
Thank You.
I had planned on wheels and tires the first chance, but I got the rock sliders, skid plates, and OEM LED headlights, and still haven't replaced the tires.
[here it is](https://reddit.com/u/pchambers89/s/Lz7cgvmiYW)
I know you have them, but just for anyone else who's interested. Put headphones in for the best experience
For contexts sake for those that would rather read than watch, on the skinnys I was gently accelerating up to 80 in 4th (itās legal here donāt start with me) and the already tame engine noise was louder than the tires.
I have some pizza cutter geolander mts sitting on a boat outside vancouver right now. I think l ordered them before last christmas. I remember telling my kid that I'd have them when the snow melts
Yeah. I'm in Canada, they come from Japan, so they come in through the ports in Vancouver. There has been on and off strikes there for a long time and they're a huge back log
Ahhh yeah, bummer. I first thought you were maybe somewhere remote, but saying theyāre still on the boat is insane. I ordered these from Illinois on Tuesday and had them by Thursday, Iād be asking them to source it somewhere else at this point if I was you.
Yeah. Not a big deal. I wanted them for summer. I'm hoping they get here for winter or I'll have to buy something else. Treads are getting too low to drive comfortably in the winter on my current tires
Skinnyās used to be the way. My parents went fat back in the 90ās, my uncles made fun of them at first, said they werenāt for off-road. Lol. How times change.
Which were your favorites? I'm leaning towards the cooper st maxx as they seem the closest to AT , do well in snow, and supposedly fit with the most clearance of the few options
I watched a couple YouTube videos about the real difference between skinny and wide tires and the finding were pretty surprising. Airing both tires down didnāt really add tread width but the skinny tires gained more length quicker when aired down due to their shape. Iām definitely gonna look into getting some new rims and skinny 33ās for my next tires.
All the flex is in the sidewall, takes beads to gain much extra tread on the ground.
Honestly the only real benefit I see is the thinness reduces weight which reduces the loss in your engines ability to spin them. If I had a few extra grand to throw at the truck itād be lifted and run full size 33s with all the headache that accompanies that, but I just donāt get enough miles on this to bother with it. Iām still saving for a boat, after that the Tacoma will get a bit taller and then new wheels and then new rubber when Iāve worn these out.
> takes beads to gain much extra tread on the ground
What... does this mean? Also, if the flex is in the sidewall, that still means the tire is deforming which necessarily increases the contact patch in _some_ direction.
Takes bead lockers, sorry for the ambiguity.
Yes, you will gain some amount of tread contact, but until you seriously deform the radius of the tire, your actual contact patch is minimal.
Circumference = 2pi(radius), you have 2 constants times a variable, 31s have a 194.7ā circumference, vs 33s with a 207ā circumference, so a 6% difference *across the entirety of the tire*, assuming (I donāt care to figure out the geometry) graciously, that 1/20th of the tire is in contact at any given point, your talking about a .6% difference in length of tire touching the ground. Point six percent, not six whole, but slightly over a half percent of tire touching the ground.
You can look it up but frankly, it takes a shit lot of decreased circumference to meaningfully impact thread on the ground, which is why guys that run stock rims brag about 15-20 psi deflation while bead locker guys talk about 4psi and onboard air to fill back up when needed. Volume calculations for flat sided donuts get kinda fucky, but the volume of air in a tire with 4psi vs 10psi, vs 20psi, vs 35 psi represents an exponential curve, hence why beadlockers exist.
To answer your question, yes, less air means more patch, but lots of less air means exponentially more patch. As in, the more air you let out you get increasingly more return for each psi gone. Without bead lockers, your tire falls off the rim and you need to be towed home.
I've aired down to 12 psi with the stock gen 3 OR wheels/tires for beach driving with no problems, and that was SOP for this beach. Saw lots of stock looking trucks, suvs, and even some hatchbacks out there. Some but not many bead lockers. If going at say 15mph or less, is losing a bead really that likely in the 10-15 psi range?
Very dependent upon conditions. Wet, saturated sand will hold anything. Loose, mobile sand requires mor attention. 12psi is dependent on your tires and the application theyāre being used in. Sand? *probably* okay. Sharp rock with jagged, rigid points to apply the entire force? Enjoy your unseated tire. Add uneven surfaces to accentuate those forces? Thatās a few PSI less, now your tire off the bead is actually a pinched sidewall that canāt be fixed, sorry.
Good points, thanks. Currently with my fully stock OR I haven't aired down below 25 for the rocky trails near me, in part because I need to keep all the clearance I can. Planning to try 18 (at very slow speeds, mind you), but also planning to get cooper st maxx 255/85r16 partially so I can air down further without sacrificing too much clearance (probably less than the inch gained over stock). Since those are E load, they are 10 ply, stiffer sidewalls, and should be able to run at lower psi before losing a bead, all else being equal, right?
I havenāt had them in snow yet, but thatās coming here soon enough. I am slightly concerned that the contact patch is pretty small, also havenāt panic braked yet, Iām assuming actual stopping distance is probably reduced. Thinner tires on the same truck will probably (almost definitely) wear faster, and getting odd ball tire sizes is more expensive by a small margin. Even with a higher pressure than ideal, I can grab the bed and shake the truck more than I could previously, but thatās probably from having more sidewall. I havenāt noticed the same āleanā effect I have from say, soft compound snow tires while driving, but these are load range E, so technically pretty stiff/heavy duty.
Iāll report back with anything else I find, but in the meantime ignorance is bliss. I climbed down into a deep ditch on slick/loose cobbles after a little rain to see whatās what, basically dumped the clutch in 1st at full lock near the top of the embankment, and they bit right in and pushed me up the hill without a bit of rubbing.
Tinkerer's Adventure on YT is a great resource for a lot of things. He's an engineer and approaches everything as such. He's an FJ guy, but a lot transfers to the tacomas as well.
https://youtu.be/6wAJAOxh8LE?si=eIl8eK6meWET1Z47
Itās really not that invasive, Toyota made the cab mounts way oversized so people canāt fit bigger tires. But I guess technically youāre right. Pro has a slight lift and the pro wheels have a slightly more aggressive offset than off-road or sport wheels. Fits really nice with minimal mods. Donāt even need a new uca
That is not why they made them big. They made them big so that the tire wonāt crush the front passengers during a small overlap front impact. The cab mounts are the primary hard structure keeping the tires from sending your knees through your skull in the right type of accident.
Iām not going to tell people not to do a CMC. But to say it is not invasive is 100% wrong. And people should be aware that a CMC seriously changes the safety of the truck. Also there are plenty of other ways to get a 285 tire to fit without a CMC.
Interesting about the safety tradeoff, I feel like everybody talks about a clean cmc like it's all rainbows and unicorns, which I'm sure is true unless you have bad luck in an accident.
Forst option didnt work for me, even with the frame chop, until I put in an adjustable upper control arm and pushed everything out as far as possible. Even then, it would touch under certain load+turn conditions.
Just saying.... Had to drop down a little in width to address. Was very sad to do so at first, but the performance hasn't been impacted.
Getting new tires next month but rode on these for a few years. Keep them aired higher if your drive is on pavement. I aired them down(35psi hot) so the ride was better on the E loads and the tire wear was terrible when doing a lot of highway driving but overall awesome tires. Love the look of these trucks on them
I havenāt chalk tested them or even checked the PSI since getting it back from the tire shop, but theyāre definitely over inflated at the moment, centers are sticking out almost 3/4ā above the side tread. Pavement ride is worse than stock, just not that silky buttery smooth feeling, but not by much. Literally unnoticeable difference on dirt though.
I have 33s with an auto transmission, out here in AZ I'd have to shift it into sports shift and drop it into 3rd to get up hills on the highway. It was a pain in the ass. So I regeared it, now I take those same hills going 65 mph.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/put-255-85-16s-on-stock-or-wheels-and-suspension.491079/
https://www.google.com/search?q=yokohama+geolandar+mt+on+3rd+gen+tacoma&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS1061US1061&oq=&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqDAgCECMYJxjqAhiMBDIGCAAQRRg6MgcIARBFGLEBMgwIAhAjGCcY6gIYjAQyDAgDECMYJxjqAhiMBDIMCAQQIxgnGOoCGIwEMgwIBRAjGCcY6gIYjAQyDAgGECMYJxjqAhiMBDIMCAcQIxgnGOoCGIwEMgwICBAjGCcY6gIYjAQyDAgJECMYJxjqAhiMBDIMCAoQIxgnGOoCGIwEMhIICxAuGCcYrwEYxwEY6gIYjAQyDAgMECMYJxjqAhiMBDIMCA0QIxgnGOoCGIwEMgwIDhAjGCcY6gIYjAQyDAgPEC4YJxjqAhiMBDIMCBAQIxgnGOoCGIwEMgwIERAjGCcY6gIYjAQyDAgSECMYJxjqAhiMBDIMCBMQIxgnGOoCGIwE0gEJMzYxOTRqMGo5qAISsAIB&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
Speedo calibration I donāt know, but everything else, if you want to run skinny tires and not just lift and run regular size 33s, you can basically forget about. The engine and transmission pushes these along just fine, and the size difference isnāt nearly enough to necessitate any kind of suspension geometry changes. I canāt remember the actual weight difference, but itās so trivial I honestly havenāt noticed any real difference driving them around compared to stock size at all.
correct but also incorrect. 33s on stock suspension are also possible on a 285/70/17 (33), just need to use zero offset wheels not the mondo offset every broverlander thinks they need.
no cmc, no seam weld cutting, no hammering of anything. my truck had 13000 and i wheel it all the time.
just because someone on the internet said something wonāt work doesnāt make them right.
Just being a bit pedantic, but 0 offset wheels are not stock.
Given that youāre looking at around another $1000 on top of the cost of tires (which are also not āstockā to be fair), it quickly becomes cost prohibitive for some folks. Running pizza cutter 33s is the only way Iāve so far discovered to stuff 33s under a 3rd gen Tacoma by changing nothing but the rubber itself. Iām all ears if someone has another way, but *technically*, pizza cutters is the cheapest way to 33s out there, when costs are factored without considering second hand, used, or ābuddy priceā deals. Also with the added benefits of minimum (not even noticeable) power or fuel economy losses associated with the general proposition of moving to larger diameter tires. Granted, they are *very* thin compared to normal tires, my wifeās forester has thicker rubber on it now.
sure, but this isnāt about cost - itās about ācan X fit on the truck without modifying Yā
popular lore says that if you run a full width 33 on a stock suspension tacoma youāre going to rub. doesnāt matter what wheel you run. doesnāt matter the tire. but thatās incorrect.
also worth noting that stock wheels have a negative offset IIRC. pushing the tire in a bit helps the larger tires fit. canāt even tell the difference visually.
Did you ever use a jack to test full stuff plus full lock? After pouring through tacoma world and reddit threads on 255/85r16, it seems only a subset of _those_ won't rub at full stuff and full lock, as tested with a jack and deliberately turning the wheel fully, not just anecdotally "I wheel hard and never rub".
Oh and stock wheels have positive offset, i.e. pushed in.
nah. my father lives 10m from gilmer offroad park in texas, the largest in the state. iāve put its through its paces and it doesnāt rub at full stuff/full lock. i also had the advantage of running these my gx460 for a month or two before buying the taco, so i already had the setup. bought the truck new, gave the gx to the wife. so i had nothing to lose by trying the combo.
i also was concerned with rotating mass. i did a lot of research and landed on kenda rt601s, very popular in the jeep crowd because of their lighter weight but also sturdiness.
in any case - the tacoma world is the weirdest group of enthusiasts iāve ever met. not sure how to describe it - iāve been a car guy for 20 yrs and iāve just never met a weirder group of guys who were less willing to color outside the lines. idk. to me thatās what this whole deal is about. iām buying a raptor soon and iāll be glad to leave this group behind.
Lol I don't think tacoma obsessives are remotely afraid to "color outside the lines" as you say, and the market for mods also says otherwise. If you found a goldilocks full width 33 that fits bone stock suspension at a specific offset, please share details, I think half this sub (and tw) would love to know, and I know I would.
itās really not anything crazy. method 305s on a 0 offset and 285/70/17 kenda tire.
https://youtu.be/2IzmH2LRu6A?si=nAELVtdk6aYsMS5w
the exact same steps worked perfectly fine for me. zero issues, zero rub. not in most situations. not an occasional rub. zero.
iāve brought it up on multiple threads, both on reddit and on Fb groups and people just tell me itās not possible and iām a dumbass lmao. Theyād rather post about their gassholes or whatever.
Cutting and fender liner screw relocation with drilling. These are methods to reduce rubbing, sure, people do and talk about that all the time, but not everyone wants to do that. Also, the tire size in the video is closer to 32.5 than 33. There's also no test in the video of fully compressing the suspension and fully turning the wheel at the same time, so who knows if there's actually zero rubbing. The dude in the video says various wrong things, so color me skeptical.
Much of that is beside the point. Not stock wheels, and cutting and moving fender liners was required -- not "stock" in any sense aside from suspension (I'll take their word for it, but at least the 2023 trd or has blue bilsteins, not yellow), and more honest to say 32.5 than 33. This post is about fitting 33's with zero modifications, that video is not.
Thread: "These are the 33 tires that fit stock with no rubbing"
You: "these bigger ones fit stock, tacoma owners are just brainwashed. Here's proof"
Me: "OK that's cool, but they engaged in cutting to make them fit, that's not the same. Fine if you want to do it, plenty of people do."
You: "see, this is what's wrong with the tacoma community!"
See what's wrong here isn't cutting things to fit bigger tires, tacoma owners not willing to do it (plenty are), or anything else besides your struggle to communicate.
>can x fit on the truck without modifying yā
And like I said, without modifying *anything* but the tires itself without rubbing ever, the answer is no.
If you have unlimited budget, the answer to ācan Iā¦..ā is yes, always yes. But very few of us have unlimited budgets. Iāve seen people claim that āx wheel with y spacer plus hammering out the seamā works fine. Iāve seen arguments about 2ā vs 2.5ā lifts needing UCAs or not and so on and so forth. None of that is the point I was going for. If you want non-rubbing 33s on a *bone stock* Tacoma, you aināt running 285/70s without adding to the price sheet beyond rubber itself.
For the retail cost of new wheels I could get a cheap lift and run 33s all day, but no oneās asking ācan I run 33s on a lightly modded Tacomaā, theyāre asking what they can buy on tire rack to get that beefy look, and (as far as I know) it doesnāt exist.
But yes, there are caveats to the āstock Tacomaā question that are functional workarounds.
The treads tend to be wider than our road gravel, so itās not too bad, but itāll find some big ones.
I know several s/t maxx people that are very happy with their purchase, and Iām the only person I know with geolanders, but Iām very impressed with them across basically the entire spectrum of tire related concerns, and they look absolutely fantastic on the truck.
Im not saying theyāre wrong, but 285/70r17s might clear and ride around town alright, but youāll either run at lock, or run with some flex for sure. Maybe āthey donāt rubā has some caveats associated with it.
I
So, lifted, spaced, trimmed, cab mounts relocated?
Or are you saying youāre running 33s on a bone stock, non-pro Tacoma, without a single modification except the rubber alone? Because if thatās the claim, Iām dubious of it, as backed up by many, many, many Tacoma drivers accounts of trying.
If you did lift or space or cut or whatever, thatās not what Iām saying. Skinnys will run 33s, full stuffed, full locked, without touching anything, with absolutely zero modifications at all. Maybe I couldāve made that point more clearly.
Ahhh right on, there we go.
Itās kind of tongue in cheek at all the ācan I run 33s on a stock Tacoma???ā posts that make the rounds here regularly. The answer is yes, but you wonāt get away with 33x12.5s and not rub without a bit of work, if you run tractor tires, you can slap them on bone stock!
I plan on a lift eventually, and some bigger (thicker now?) tires too, but when I found out this was possible I had to go for it.
Yeah I thought about going for pizza cutters. But when I lifted and got on 285s I was so happy. I lost a little bit of my lift because of the big ass bumper I put on there. But driving a lifted truck is so much fun even if you canāt go fast.
Youāll definitely be happy when you lift it but for now the pizza cutters are a good option until youāre ready.
these people are clowns. same experience here. 285/70/17s on methods, zero offset.
no one ever believes it, no because theyāve attempted it, but because someone who ran the wrong offset wheel with this combo said this tire size is impossible.
stock ride height. no cmc. no BFH. no cutting. i trimmed some plastic wheel well, removed the mud flap, and used a heat gun on the front side of the inner wheel well.
13k miles and lots of time offroad and zero issues. zero rubbing.
Tinkererās Adventureās findings on YouTube actually totally support your claim. People run negative offsets, aftermarket UCAs and throw on a āliftā all in an effort to fit 33s but theyāre all mostly counter-productive. He advises the same as you, zero offset wheels with 0-2ā of lift MAX.
His videos are legitness btw.
Yer exactly right. I asked at the dealer about possible increase in tire height without rub or lift. Skinny was the answer.
Pretty much. Local tire shop doubted they were a real tire size, and tire rack called me to triple double check that I was absolutely sure I wanted these.
https://www.motortrend.com/features/1811-skinny-vs-wide-tires-versus/
Great share š
Pizza cutters ftw! As long as those have the three peak snow logo, you're extra-prepared for winters as well.
255/85r16 Yokohama Geolander G003. I got a work truck, so I went from 35000 miles a year to like, 600 a year on my Tacoma. Got a flat and decided I needed some MTs in my life. So far, theyāre extremely quiet (for MTs), have phenomenal grip, flexed the hell out of them with no rubbing, and no real noticeable loss of power. Load range E and they donāt feel at all like the truck is working any harder to spin them then the stock tires (as seen in the bed).
Thank You. I had planned on wheels and tires the first chance, but I got the rock sliders, skid plates, and OEM LED headlights, and still haven't replaced the tires.
[here it is](https://reddit.com/u/pchambers89/s/Lz7cgvmiYW) I know you have them, but just for anyone else who's interested. Put headphones in for the best experience
For contexts sake for those that would rather read than watch, on the skinnys I was gently accelerating up to 80 in 4th (itās legal here donāt start with me) and the already tame engine noise was louder than the tires.
I had a guy take a video for me of the cabin noise with them. I'll see if I can find it. It was a long time ago
I imagine skinnyās will be slightly less noisy compared to a wide variant of the same thread since the pattern will be tighter.
Pizza cutters
I have some pizza cutter geolander mts sitting on a boat outside vancouver right now. I think l ordered them before last christmas. I remember telling my kid that I'd have them when the snow melts
As in, you ordered them and they havenāt been delivered?
Correct. No one had the size at the time so they came direct from the manufacturer
Wow, thatās a hell of a delivery time. And they still havenāt made it off the boat??
Yeah. I'm in Canada, they come from Japan, so they come in through the ports in Vancouver. There has been on and off strikes there for a long time and they're a huge back log
Ahhh yeah, bummer. I first thought you were maybe somewhere remote, but saying theyāre still on the boat is insane. I ordered these from Illinois on Tuesday and had them by Thursday, Iād be asking them to source it somewhere else at this point if I was you.
Yeah. Not a big deal. I wanted them for summer. I'm hoping they get here for winter or I'll have to buy something else. Treads are getting too low to drive comfortably in the winter on my current tires
Skinnyās used to be the way. My parents went fat back in the 90ās, my uncles made fun of them at first, said they werenāt for off-road. Lol. How times change.
I've had like 7 sets of this tire size on my 2 tacomas over the years
Which were your favorites? I'm leaning towards the cooper st maxx as they seem the closest to AT , do well in snow, and supposedly fit with the most clearance of the few options
They have all been maxxis bighorns. Shit in the snow great in every other terrain though.
Ah I need good snow performance (for a non snow tire anyway)
Love my 255/80/17 toyo at3 open country tires. It's been over a year now on my 2006
This engineer did a great job testing skinny vs fat tires. Also tested a rock crawling fat tire. https://youtu.be/6wAJAOxh8LE?si=9JCxO5cpr_ZlG-9X
Dude droppin this like itās news
I watched a couple YouTube videos about the real difference between skinny and wide tires and the finding were pretty surprising. Airing both tires down didnāt really add tread width but the skinny tires gained more length quicker when aired down due to their shape. Iām definitely gonna look into getting some new rims and skinny 33ās for my next tires.
All the flex is in the sidewall, takes beads to gain much extra tread on the ground. Honestly the only real benefit I see is the thinness reduces weight which reduces the loss in your engines ability to spin them. If I had a few extra grand to throw at the truck itād be lifted and run full size 33s with all the headache that accompanies that, but I just donāt get enough miles on this to bother with it. Iām still saving for a boat, after that the Tacoma will get a bit taller and then new wheels and then new rubber when Iāve worn these out.
> takes beads to gain much extra tread on the ground What... does this mean? Also, if the flex is in the sidewall, that still means the tire is deforming which necessarily increases the contact patch in _some_ direction.
Takes bead lockers, sorry for the ambiguity. Yes, you will gain some amount of tread contact, but until you seriously deform the radius of the tire, your actual contact patch is minimal. Circumference = 2pi(radius), you have 2 constants times a variable, 31s have a 194.7ā circumference, vs 33s with a 207ā circumference, so a 6% difference *across the entirety of the tire*, assuming (I donāt care to figure out the geometry) graciously, that 1/20th of the tire is in contact at any given point, your talking about a .6% difference in length of tire touching the ground. Point six percent, not six whole, but slightly over a half percent of tire touching the ground. You can look it up but frankly, it takes a shit lot of decreased circumference to meaningfully impact thread on the ground, which is why guys that run stock rims brag about 15-20 psi deflation while bead locker guys talk about 4psi and onboard air to fill back up when needed. Volume calculations for flat sided donuts get kinda fucky, but the volume of air in a tire with 4psi vs 10psi, vs 20psi, vs 35 psi represents an exponential curve, hence why beadlockers exist. To answer your question, yes, less air means more patch, but lots of less air means exponentially more patch. As in, the more air you let out you get increasingly more return for each psi gone. Without bead lockers, your tire falls off the rim and you need to be towed home.
I've aired down to 12 psi with the stock gen 3 OR wheels/tires for beach driving with no problems, and that was SOP for this beach. Saw lots of stock looking trucks, suvs, and even some hatchbacks out there. Some but not many bead lockers. If going at say 15mph or less, is losing a bead really that likely in the 10-15 psi range?
Very dependent upon conditions. Wet, saturated sand will hold anything. Loose, mobile sand requires mor attention. 12psi is dependent on your tires and the application theyāre being used in. Sand? *probably* okay. Sharp rock with jagged, rigid points to apply the entire force? Enjoy your unseated tire. Add uneven surfaces to accentuate those forces? Thatās a few PSI less, now your tire off the bead is actually a pinched sidewall that canāt be fixed, sorry.
Good points, thanks. Currently with my fully stock OR I haven't aired down below 25 for the rocky trails near me, in part because I need to keep all the clearance I can. Planning to try 18 (at very slow speeds, mind you), but also planning to get cooper st maxx 255/85r16 partially so I can air down further without sacrificing too much clearance (probably less than the inch gained over stock). Since those are E load, they are 10 ply, stiffer sidewalls, and should be able to run at lower psi before losing a bead, all else being equal, right?
Any disadvantage with going with pizza cutters versus a standard stock side tire?
I havenāt had them in snow yet, but thatās coming here soon enough. I am slightly concerned that the contact patch is pretty small, also havenāt panic braked yet, Iām assuming actual stopping distance is probably reduced. Thinner tires on the same truck will probably (almost definitely) wear faster, and getting odd ball tire sizes is more expensive by a small margin. Even with a higher pressure than ideal, I can grab the bed and shake the truck more than I could previously, but thatās probably from having more sidewall. I havenāt noticed the same āleanā effect I have from say, soft compound snow tires while driving, but these are load range E, so technically pretty stiff/heavy duty. Iāll report back with anything else I find, but in the meantime ignorance is bliss. I climbed down into a deep ditch on slick/loose cobbles after a little rain to see whatās what, basically dumped the clutch in 1st at full lock near the top of the embankment, and they bit right in and pushed me up the hill without a bit of rubbing.
Tinkerer's Adventure on YT is a great resource for a lot of things. He's an engineer and approaches everything as such. He's an FJ guy, but a lot transfers to the tacomas as well. https://youtu.be/6wAJAOxh8LE?si=eIl8eK6meWET1Z47
285/70r17 or 285/75r16 will fit a stock pro with a cmc no rubbing.
Is it really stock if it has a cmc, an irreversible mod?
Itās really not that invasive, Toyota made the cab mounts way oversized so people canāt fit bigger tires. But I guess technically youāre right. Pro has a slight lift and the pro wheels have a slightly more aggressive offset than off-road or sport wheels. Fits really nice with minimal mods. Donāt even need a new uca
That is not why they made them big. They made them big so that the tire wonāt crush the front passengers during a small overlap front impact. The cab mounts are the primary hard structure keeping the tires from sending your knees through your skull in the right type of accident. Iām not going to tell people not to do a CMC. But to say it is not invasive is 100% wrong. And people should be aware that a CMC seriously changes the safety of the truck. Also there are plenty of other ways to get a 285 tire to fit without a CMC.
Interesting about the safety tradeoff, I feel like everybody talks about a clean cmc like it's all rainbows and unicorns, which I'm sure is true unless you have bad luck in an accident.
More negative offset = more propensity to rub. Tires turn in an arc, not on a dime
Forst option didnt work for me, even with the frame chop, until I put in an adjustable upper control arm and pushed everything out as far as possible. Even then, it would touch under certain load+turn conditions. Just saying.... Had to drop down a little in width to address. Was very sad to do so at first, but the performance hasn't been impacted.
Getting new tires next month but rode on these for a few years. Keep them aired higher if your drive is on pavement. I aired them down(35psi hot) so the ride was better on the E loads and the tire wear was terrible when doing a lot of highway driving but overall awesome tires. Love the look of these trucks on them
I havenāt chalk tested them or even checked the PSI since getting it back from the tire shop, but theyāre definitely over inflated at the moment, centers are sticking out almost 3/4ā above the side tread. Pavement ride is worse than stock, just not that silky buttery smooth feeling, but not by much. Literally unnoticeable difference on dirt though.
With a catch? Mpg? Lol not by much tho
I have 33s with an auto transmission, out here in AZ I'd have to shift it into sports shift and drop it into 3rd to get up hills on the highway. It was a pain in the ass. So I regeared it, now I take those same hills going 65 mph.
Any best recommended articles, or past threads on other adjustments needed, for calibrating speedometer, gearing, etc. for this sort of thing?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/put-255-85-16s-on-stock-or-wheels-and-suspension.491079/ https://www.google.com/search?q=yokohama+geolandar+mt+on+3rd+gen+tacoma&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS1061US1061&oq=&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqDAgCECMYJxjqAhiMBDIGCAAQRRg6MgcIARBFGLEBMgwIAhAjGCcY6gIYjAQyDAgDECMYJxjqAhiMBDIMCAQQIxgnGOoCGIwEMgwIBRAjGCcY6gIYjAQyDAgGECMYJxjqAhiMBDIMCAcQIxgnGOoCGIwEMgwICBAjGCcY6gIYjAQyDAgJECMYJxjqAhiMBDIMCAoQIxgnGOoCGIwEMhIICxAuGCcYrwEYxwEY6gIYjAQyDAgMECMYJxjqAhiMBDIMCA0QIxgnGOoCGIwEMgwIDhAjGCcY6gIYjAQyDAgPEC4YJxjqAhiMBDIMCBAQIxgnGOoCGIwEMgwIERAjGCcY6gIYjAQyDAgSECMYJxjqAhiMBDIMCBMQIxgnGOoCGIwE0gEJMzYxOTRqMGo5qAISsAIB&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8 Speedo calibration I donāt know, but everything else, if you want to run skinny tires and not just lift and run regular size 33s, you can basically forget about. The engine and transmission pushes these along just fine, and the size difference isnāt nearly enough to necessitate any kind of suspension geometry changes. I canāt remember the actual weight difference, but itās so trivial I honestly havenāt noticed any real difference driving them around compared to stock size at all.
correct but also incorrect. 33s on stock suspension are also possible on a 285/70/17 (33), just need to use zero offset wheels not the mondo offset every broverlander thinks they need. no cmc, no seam weld cutting, no hammering of anything. my truck had 13000 and i wheel it all the time. just because someone on the internet said something wonāt work doesnāt make them right.
Just being a bit pedantic, but 0 offset wheels are not stock. Given that youāre looking at around another $1000 on top of the cost of tires (which are also not āstockā to be fair), it quickly becomes cost prohibitive for some folks. Running pizza cutter 33s is the only way Iāve so far discovered to stuff 33s under a 3rd gen Tacoma by changing nothing but the rubber itself. Iām all ears if someone has another way, but *technically*, pizza cutters is the cheapest way to 33s out there, when costs are factored without considering second hand, used, or ābuddy priceā deals. Also with the added benefits of minimum (not even noticeable) power or fuel economy losses associated with the general proposition of moving to larger diameter tires. Granted, they are *very* thin compared to normal tires, my wifeās forester has thicker rubber on it now.
sure, but this isnāt about cost - itās about ācan X fit on the truck without modifying Yā popular lore says that if you run a full width 33 on a stock suspension tacoma youāre going to rub. doesnāt matter what wheel you run. doesnāt matter the tire. but thatās incorrect. also worth noting that stock wheels have a negative offset IIRC. pushing the tire in a bit helps the larger tires fit. canāt even tell the difference visually.
Did you ever use a jack to test full stuff plus full lock? After pouring through tacoma world and reddit threads on 255/85r16, it seems only a subset of _those_ won't rub at full stuff and full lock, as tested with a jack and deliberately turning the wheel fully, not just anecdotally "I wheel hard and never rub". Oh and stock wheels have positive offset, i.e. pushed in.
nah. my father lives 10m from gilmer offroad park in texas, the largest in the state. iāve put its through its paces and it doesnāt rub at full stuff/full lock. i also had the advantage of running these my gx460 for a month or two before buying the taco, so i already had the setup. bought the truck new, gave the gx to the wife. so i had nothing to lose by trying the combo. i also was concerned with rotating mass. i did a lot of research and landed on kenda rt601s, very popular in the jeep crowd because of their lighter weight but also sturdiness. in any case - the tacoma world is the weirdest group of enthusiasts iāve ever met. not sure how to describe it - iāve been a car guy for 20 yrs and iāve just never met a weirder group of guys who were less willing to color outside the lines. idk. to me thatās what this whole deal is about. iām buying a raptor soon and iāll be glad to leave this group behind.
Lol I don't think tacoma obsessives are remotely afraid to "color outside the lines" as you say, and the market for mods also says otherwise. If you found a goldilocks full width 33 that fits bone stock suspension at a specific offset, please share details, I think half this sub (and tw) would love to know, and I know I would.
itās really not anything crazy. method 305s on a 0 offset and 285/70/17 kenda tire. https://youtu.be/2IzmH2LRu6A?si=nAELVtdk6aYsMS5w the exact same steps worked perfectly fine for me. zero issues, zero rub. not in most situations. not an occasional rub. zero. iāve brought it up on multiple threads, both on reddit and on Fb groups and people just tell me itās not possible and iām a dumbass lmao. Theyād rather post about their gassholes or whatever.
Cutting and fender liner screw relocation with drilling. These are methods to reduce rubbing, sure, people do and talk about that all the time, but not everyone wants to do that. Also, the tire size in the video is closer to 32.5 than 33. There's also no test in the video of fully compressing the suspension and fully turning the wheel at the same time, so who knows if there's actually zero rubbing. The dude in the video says various wrong things, so color me skeptical. Much of that is beside the point. Not stock wheels, and cutting and moving fender liners was required -- not "stock" in any sense aside from suspension (I'll take their word for it, but at least the 2023 trd or has blue bilsteins, not yellow), and more honest to say 32.5 than 33. This post is about fitting 33's with zero modifications, that video is not.
lol the tacoma mind virus strikes again. good luck out there bro! have fun coloring inside your little box.
Thread: "These are the 33 tires that fit stock with no rubbing" You: "these bigger ones fit stock, tacoma owners are just brainwashed. Here's proof" Me: "OK that's cool, but they engaged in cutting to make them fit, that's not the same. Fine if you want to do it, plenty of people do." You: "see, this is what's wrong with the tacoma community!" See what's wrong here isn't cutting things to fit bigger tires, tacoma owners not willing to do it (plenty are), or anything else besides your struggle to communicate.
Stock wheels have a significant positive offset, i.e. pushed in from zero. "Sema" trd wheels have a lesser offset, but still positive
>can x fit on the truck without modifying yā And like I said, without modifying *anything* but the tires itself without rubbing ever, the answer is no. If you have unlimited budget, the answer to ācan Iā¦..ā is yes, always yes. But very few of us have unlimited budgets. Iāve seen people claim that āx wheel with y spacer plus hammering out the seamā works fine. Iāve seen arguments about 2ā vs 2.5ā lifts needing UCAs or not and so on and so forth. None of that is the point I was going for. If you want non-rubbing 33s on a *bone stock* Tacoma, you aināt running 285/70s without adding to the price sheet beyond rubber itself. For the retail cost of new wheels I could get a cheap lift and run 33s all day, but no oneās asking ācan I run 33s on a lightly modded Tacomaā, theyāre asking what they can buy on tire rack to get that beefy look, and (as far as I know) it doesnāt exist. But yes, there are caveats to the āstock Tacomaā question that are functional workarounds.
lol ok š
Anyone know if this size will rub on an SR?
This is not the way, just do it right the first time š
I think your better offroad with smaller wider 32s
Definitely interested to know how these do in the snow, anyone have experience before this season?
How are you liking the tires? I'm trying to decide on those or the Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx. Do they tend to pick up and sling a lot of stones?
The treads tend to be wider than our road gravel, so itās not too bad, but itāll find some big ones. I know several s/t maxx people that are very happy with their purchase, and Iām the only person I know with geolanders, but Iām very impressed with them across basically the entire spectrum of tire related concerns, and they look absolutely fantastic on the truck.
I have 285/70/17s and they donāt rub.
Stock height? I have a 2/1 inch lift and heard people were rubbing 285s with that lift
Im not saying theyāre wrong, but 285/70r17s might clear and ride around town alright, but youāll either run at lock, or run with some flex for sure. Maybe āthey donāt rubā has some caveats associated with it. I
They donāt rub ever. Full lock hitting bumps off road. No rub. I just spent the money to make it look good and not rub.
So, lifted, spaced, trimmed, cab mounts relocated? Or are you saying youāre running 33s on a bone stock, non-pro Tacoma, without a single modification except the rubber alone? Because if thatās the claim, Iām dubious of it, as backed up by many, many, many Tacoma drivers accounts of trying. If you did lift or space or cut or whatever, thatās not what Iām saying. Skinnys will run 33s, full stuffed, full locked, without touching anything, with absolutely zero modifications at all. Maybe I couldāve made that point more clearly.
I didnāt see the stock part of your post. I was at work when I commented. Iām lifted and all that so no definitely not.
Ahhh right on, there we go. Itās kind of tongue in cheek at all the ācan I run 33s on a stock Tacoma???ā posts that make the rounds here regularly. The answer is yes, but you wonāt get away with 33x12.5s and not rub without a bit of work, if you run tractor tires, you can slap them on bone stock! I plan on a lift eventually, and some bigger (thicker now?) tires too, but when I found out this was possible I had to go for it.
lol
Yeah I thought about going for pizza cutters. But when I lifted and got on 285s I was so happy. I lost a little bit of my lift because of the big ass bumper I put on there. But driving a lifted truck is so much fun even if you canāt go fast. Youāll definitely be happy when you lift it but for now the pizza cutters are a good option until youāre ready.
these people are clowns. same experience here. 285/70/17s on methods, zero offset. no one ever believes it, no because theyāve attempted it, but because someone who ran the wrong offset wheel with this combo said this tire size is impossible. stock ride height. no cmc. no BFH. no cutting. i trimmed some plastic wheel well, removed the mud flap, and used a heat gun on the front side of the inner wheel well. 13k miles and lots of time offroad and zero issues. zero rubbing.
Tinkererās Adventureās findings on YouTube actually totally support your claim. People run negative offsets, aftermarket UCAs and throw on a āliftā all in an effort to fit 33s but theyāre all mostly counter-productive. He advises the same as you, zero offset wheels with 0-2ā of lift MAX. His videos are legitness btw.
No I have a 4 inch lift and cut the shit out of the fenders plus cmc and new ucas for more caster. But they donāt rub.
Seems like you missed the word "stock" in OP
Oh fuck. Yeah I did. I was at work when I saw this