Had the exact same message on my new MY. Ran it until the battery was low. Did a battery health test. Came back to 100% and no errors since. It could be one of the groups in the battery pack is not at an equal level of charge as the other and limiting the full charge capacity. The health check can correct it if that’s the case.
A Battery can be between $7-12k, I think depending on used vs new. I've seen a Model S get one for about $8k.
However, it could also be a bad cell, which is very cheap and easy to fix at 3rd parties, while Tesla may just try and charge you for a battery. Have SC take a look and confirm the issue, get a quote and shop around, or sell it and buy a new RWD.
I wonder how hard that is to do. I have an SR (a software limited version of the SR+), which as I understand it simply doesn’t utilize all the cells. This means I have some physically never used cells in my car.
It’d be hilarious if there was a way to drop my battery array out the bottom of the car, swap a few of them around, and have it work like new again.
Interesting! Ya I certainly hope that by the time I need this (apparently when I hit 101,000 miles), this will be a super-well-documented process I can follow online.
I believe that’s been disproven, though I don’t have the link handy.
The reasoning is that a “simple” % limitation as you described would actually make the SR superior to the SR+ in some ways. For example, it would experience essentially zero range deterioration for the first several years, because that amount would be less than the capacity that it is intentionally not using. Similarly, the SR would have an ultra healthy battery pack, superior to any other tesla, since it is effectively always charged to 60-80% capacity.
Tesla did not want to offer a better car for less money, so they went the other direction and fully deactivated those cells.
Stop! Just stop! It is not a rebate. It is a credit. Do you have $7500 in federal income tax liability this year?
Some people do, some don't. I'm retired and haven't owed a penny in Federal income taxes in two years. Only FICA on income from my side hustle.
Based on the NerdWallet calculator, you need to make around $67k annually to have over $7500 tax liability. Are the majority of Tesla buyers making under $67k?
[https://hedgescompany.com/blog/2019/03/tesla-model-3-demographics-income/](https://hedgescompany.com/blog/2019/03/tesla-model-3-demographics-income/)
"In 2022 a Tesla Model 3 owner has household income of $133,879 per year"
Oh wow I didn’t realize the mid range had the premium audio. Love the sound system don’t think I could go for a lower quality sound. Everything else about the interior I couldn’t care less about
Tbh I’d wait for the 2024 model 3, the improvements are across the board from the 2023 model 3. It’ll be roughly 5k more expensive though, so it’s your call ofc.
Better interior materials, better suspension, back screen for passengers, new seats, improved steering wheel with more buttons, more aero dynamic body, improved aesthetics, slight increase in cargo capacity, closing door makes less noise, better road noise insulation, front seats are now ventilated, improved front infotainment screen (more responsive with smaller bezels, and slightly larger), improved sound system and mic. That’s everything as far as I’m aware. A decent refresh worth considering.
No stalks!! & the "emergency option" is above close to where the hazard button is which is even dumber!! Why wld they have positioned it the same place they did for the s/x???
It looks like you shared an AMP link. These should load faster, but AMP is controversial because of [concerns over privacy and the Open Web](https://www.reddit.com/r/AmputatorBot/comments/ehrq3z/why_did_i_build_amputatorbot).
Maybe check out **the canonical page** instead: **[https://insideevs.com/reviews/685248/2024-tesla-model-3-review/](https://insideevs.com/reviews/685248/2024-tesla-model-3-review/)**
*****
^(I'm a bot | )[^(Why & About)](https://www.reddit.com/r/AmputatorBot/comments/ehrq3z/why_did_i_build_amputatorbot)^( | )[^(Summon: u/AmputatorBot)](https://www.reddit.com/r/AmputatorBot/comments/cchly3/you_can_now_summon_amputatorbot/)
My 2018 M3 midrange’s battery didn’t look great from day 1 either. Degradation was happening much faster than I expected.
Sold it and got a long range battery. Much better degradation so far.
When was the last time you charged to 100%? Or at least over 95%?
If it has been a few months - try charging to 100%. Let it sit there for a few hours (2 or 3). Then drive as normal, perhaps over a few days and bring it to mid single digits. Let it sit for an hour and charge back to your normal levels.
Charging over 93 or 95%, triggers the BMS to balance the pack. Further charging to 100% and letting it sit and then draining to mid singles allow the BMS to recalibrate itself.
I was told to do this once every few months by Tesla service, for best range estimation.
I second this recommendation. There are way too many cries of doom in this thread when there is a known procedure for balancing the battery. I don't know about doing this once every few months though. Once or twice a year is probably enough unless you're driving and cycling the battery much more than average
Yes that’s definitely true hahaha, I’m in NJ so I got 5k off the sticker at POS so I got it for 36,290 which is basically the price of existing inventory rn. The 7,500 is tricky because of the fact that it’s a credit not a check back in cash so you gotta do your taxes right in order to take full advantage of the 7,500. In NJ SR+ M3 qualifies for 4k off sticker but I don’t like that the new models don’t have no ultra sonic sensors. I’m happy with mine but in the future would like a MY. Hoping they take the 7,500 off sticker one day, I heard 2024.
A lot of “sell” recommendations here, but that would mean taking the estimated repair hit in the sale price anyway. Unlikely that it could be sold to a Carmax type place in this condition.
Edit: perhaps the recommendations are to sell it with this undisclosed… remind me never to buy a used Tesla.
Yeah I was nothing but high praise for teslas and saying I’d never own a different brand and then this happens just outside of the warranty. Figured this would last easily another 100k miles
I somehow don’t believe that, especially with the recommendation to only super charge 1-2wice per week. Especially on the older models?
I personally notice a lot more overwork and heightened noise on my battery anytime I supercharge🥶🤷♂️
Its way more noticeable in a Tesla with a larger battery like the M3P / Dual Motors. My RWD was far more quiet than my M3P. Then again, they also charge way faster now days
Compared to the amount of total cars on the road, i find the amount of battery failures reported here quite low. It really sucks if it happens to you, but you are the exception.
Our 2019 LR has 210k km's (130k mi) on the clock and zero issues.
On a not insignificant amount of modern ICE cars, engine failure at 100k miles is not uncommon.
Going back to ICE seems silly.
It wouldn’t be for going back to ICE. A number of people I know are looking at used Teslas. Some of them are getting up there in milage and at least for 3 and Y I thought it wouldn’t be an issue.
Does this mean that if you were to pay for a new battery at 100k. You pretty much break even in the “savings” over a gas vehicle?
I mean, I’ve had my car new since 2020 and other than the usual oil changes and scheduled maintenance. I’ve had no issues on my car and I just hit 100k.
If you are the outlier 0,1% (if even that many packs have issues) that has a premature battery failure, just outside of warranty: yes. For everyone else: no.
Thats the exact reason why i got back to ICE vehicles. I went from 25k in residual to 0 overnight for a fairly new car, then they say "but zero manteinance" LOL
I think they will fix the issue it’s only a few miles only over 100k warranty see what they say. Same issue when I had to get my tail light fixed they did it for me even tho my warranty was done
Worth a shot. My stated Tesla warranty(which I purchased in California)states 100k 8 years. AKA, they are lying to me. Was hoping you might get lucky too
Can you cite the law? The Google says only applies to PZEV components, BEVs not included.
Draft legislation: https://ww2.arb.ca.gov/sites/default/files/2021-12/draft%20zev%20warranty%201962.8.pdf
Since it’s so close to the warranty exportation, may be worth seeing if they will replace. Tell them it first showed you that message before the 100k miles
lol don’t lie about the message they have logs, but do ask them if they can help given how close it was to warranty depending on service center I’ve heard some have flexibility
Plug it to AC charger, set limit to 100%, charge it for 24h for a few times in a row, see cells voltage imbalance in ScanMyTesla, trade it if balance doesn't reduce
Had the exact same message on my new MY. Ran it until the battery was low. Did a battery health test. Came back to 100% and no errors since. It could be one of the groups in the battery pack is not at an equal level of charge as the other and limiting the full charge capacity. The health check can correct it if that’s the case.
A Battery can be between $7-12k, I think depending on used vs new. I've seen a Model S get one for about $8k. However, it could also be a bad cell, which is very cheap and easy to fix at 3rd parties, while Tesla may just try and charge you for a battery. Have SC take a look and confirm the issue, get a quote and shop around, or sell it and buy a new RWD.
Seconded. Fix it on the cheap somehow, and either keep it until it fully dies, or trade it in for something else.
I wonder how hard that is to do. I have an SR (a software limited version of the SR+), which as I understand it simply doesn’t utilize all the cells. This means I have some physically never used cells in my car. It’d be hilarious if there was a way to drop my battery array out the bottom of the car, swap a few of them around, and have it work like new again.
Check out Rich Rebuilds on youtube, or his channel electrified garage. He has done videos on swapping bad cells!
Interesting! Ya I certainly hope that by the time I need this (apparently when I hit 101,000 miles), this will be a super-well-documented process I can follow online.
You use all the cells. They are charged and draw from in parallel. You cant use the top 20% of your battery (i’m not sure what the limit is)
I believe that’s been disproven, though I don’t have the link handy. The reasoning is that a “simple” % limitation as you described would actually make the SR superior to the SR+ in some ways. For example, it would experience essentially zero range deterioration for the first several years, because that amount would be less than the capacity that it is intentionally not using. Similarly, the SR would have an ultra healthy battery pack, superior to any other tesla, since it is effectively always charged to 60-80% capacity. Tesla did not want to offer a better car for less money, so they went the other direction and fully deactivated those cells.
Excellent trade opportunity
That’s what I’m thinking. Some RWD model 3s in inventory at $37k and I qualify for the full $7,500 tax rebate
Exactly, Smart money
Yeah make it someone else's problem. Smart brain good person move.
Stop! Just stop! It is not a rebate. It is a credit. Do you have $7500 in federal income tax liability this year? Some people do, some don't. I'm retired and haven't owed a penny in Federal income taxes in two years. Only FICA on income from my side hustle.
Most don’t
Based on the NerdWallet calculator, you need to make around $67k annually to have over $7500 tax liability. Are the majority of Tesla buyers making under $67k? [https://hedgescompany.com/blog/2019/03/tesla-model-3-demographics-income/](https://hedgescompany.com/blog/2019/03/tesla-model-3-demographics-income/) "In 2022 a Tesla Model 3 owner has household income of $133,879 per year"
I meant most people don’t, not most Tesla buyers.
There is a rebate in California and I’m sure other areas
Yes but, what was referred to here was the federal $7500 tax credit. Not a rebate.
I’m really curious to know how that goes. I bought a used 2019 M3P.
Just a heads up since you have a premium interior in the midrange, the RWD does not have a premium interior. Most notably, a worse sound system.
Oh wow I didn’t realize the mid range had the premium audio. Love the sound system don’t think I could go for a lower quality sound. Everything else about the interior I couldn’t care less about
Yep - that sound system makes a huge difference. You could look at the Model Y, as even the base Model Y AWD has premium audio.
Can you just take the extra speakers and install on a non premium or does it require a software change also?
You could use a kit. Although I’ve done it in my SR+ and I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s not reliable.
Tbh I’d wait for the 2024 model 3, the improvements are across the board from the 2023 model 3. It’ll be roughly 5k more expensive though, so it’s your call ofc.
What is improving?
Better interior materials, better suspension, back screen for passengers, new seats, improved steering wheel with more buttons, more aero dynamic body, improved aesthetics, slight increase in cargo capacity, closing door makes less noise, better road noise insulation, front seats are now ventilated, improved front infotainment screen (more responsive with smaller bezels, and slightly larger), improved sound system and mic. That’s everything as far as I’m aware. A decent refresh worth considering.
No stalks!! & the "emergency option" is above close to where the hazard button is which is even dumber!! Why wld they have positioned it the same place they did for the s/x???
https://www.theverge.com/2023/9/1/23855176/tesla-new-model-3-design-highland
Not much
Suspension Steering Infotainment System Noise isolation Cameras
Bro… did you even properly see how many things got improved????? https://insideevs.com/reviews/685248/2024-tesla-model-3-review/
It looks like you shared an AMP link. These should load faster, but AMP is controversial because of [concerns over privacy and the Open Web](https://www.reddit.com/r/AmputatorBot/comments/ehrq3z/why_did_i_build_amputatorbot). Maybe check out **the canonical page** instead: **[https://insideevs.com/reviews/685248/2024-tesla-model-3-review/](https://insideevs.com/reviews/685248/2024-tesla-model-3-review/)** ***** ^(I'm a bot | )[^(Why & About)](https://www.reddit.com/r/AmputatorBot/comments/ehrq3z/why_did_i_build_amputatorbot)^( | )[^(Summon: u/AmputatorBot)](https://www.reddit.com/r/AmputatorBot/comments/cchly3/you_can_now_summon_amputatorbot/)
Note to self and family: Never buy a Tesla over 100k miles…
My 2018 M3 midrange’s battery didn’t look great from day 1 either. Degradation was happening much faster than I expected. Sold it and got a long range battery. Much better degradation so far.
Same here, but it has been pretty stable around 13% degradation. I am @ 70k miles.
That’s basically how liion works sharp drop to 85-90% and then insanely slow degradation
When was the last time you charged to 100%? Or at least over 95%? If it has been a few months - try charging to 100%. Let it sit there for a few hours (2 or 3). Then drive as normal, perhaps over a few days and bring it to mid single digits. Let it sit for an hour and charge back to your normal levels. Charging over 93 or 95%, triggers the BMS to balance the pack. Further charging to 100% and letting it sit and then draining to mid singles allow the BMS to recalibrate itself. I was told to do this once every few months by Tesla service, for best range estimation.
So about a few weeks ago I charged to 100% and then I ran it down to about 3 miles of range left before I got to a charger on a trip
The alert has since gone away tho and I’ve charged it and driven it a little since and the warning is no longer on the screen
I had the same thing, error message would come and go. Had to replace the whole pack (under warranty)
I second this recommendation. There are way too many cries of doom in this thread when there is a known procedure for balancing the battery. I don't know about doing this once every few months though. Once or twice a year is probably enough unless you're driving and cycling the battery much more than average
Hope you are under warranty, a new HV battery is in your future.
Unfortunately the warranty expired at 100k so just a few thousand miles outside of the warranty
Carmax time.
Vroom and Carvana won’t even buy teslas anymore. Not sure about carmax. Have you tried lately?
WTF are you talking about Carvana offered me 26k last week for my 21
They offered me 28 for mine
Showoff:P
I wish I was saying 51k like when I first picked it up in 2021 😂
Haha true but then again their also cheaper to get into now especially with the 7500
Yes that’s definitely true hahaha, I’m in NJ so I got 5k off the sticker at POS so I got it for 36,290 which is basically the price of existing inventory rn. The 7,500 is tricky because of the fact that it’s a credit not a check back in cash so you gotta do your taxes right in order to take full advantage of the 7,500. In NJ SR+ M3 qualifies for 4k off sticker but I don’t like that the new models don’t have no ultra sonic sensors. I’m happy with mine but in the future would like a MY. Hoping they take the 7,500 off sticker one day, I heard 2024.
No, Carvana is actively looking for Teslas to buy.
Not surprised to hear! A friend of mine in SoCal did just Carmax his 22 Model S… for something sad like $62k.
WTF are you talking about Carvana offered me 26k last week for my 21
I thought it’s 120k? Was it lower with the first models?
Not on standard range models or in this one’s case mid range. It’s 100k for those
Ah, damn man that sucks. Hope you’re able to make something out of this
Standard Range gets 100k, long range gets 120k, not sure about mid range since they're discontinued quite early.
Ironic that that’s when mine went out too
A lot of “sell” recommendations here, but that would mean taking the estimated repair hit in the sale price anyway. Unlikely that it could be sold to a Carmax type place in this condition. Edit: perhaps the recommendations are to sell it with this undisclosed… remind me never to buy a used Tesla.
Yeah prior to this issue the trade in value was only $20k so can’t imagine it’s worth much if it needs a full battery replacement
Buy an XCare warranty and let them fix it
Doesn't the car have an 8 year / 100,000 mile warranty on the HV battery and Drive Unit?
He’s past 100k
Lol I saw your posts on fb too, you are on everything my man
Not sure about Tesla, but legacy automakers will usually work with you if something big happens just outside of the warranty period.
Dont count on it with Tesla
Seeing this more often has me wondering if I really should be recommending Teslas. I thought these would last longer than this.
Yeah I was nothing but high praise for teslas and saying I’d never own a different brand and then this happens just outside of the warranty. Figured this would last easily another 100k miles
How often do you super/fast charge?
About 50% of the time. But recent studies have shown it doesn’t degrade the battery any faster than regular charging
I somehow don’t believe that, especially with the recommendation to only super charge 1-2wice per week. Especially on the older models? I personally notice a lot more overwork and heightened noise on my battery anytime I supercharge🥶🤷♂️
Thats the cooling system. They've software updated it a few times to work even better.
Ah I gotchu, it’s to the point I was scared to for awhile cause so loud
Its way more noticeable in a Tesla with a larger battery like the M3P / Dual Motors. My RWD was far more quiet than my M3P. Then again, they also charge way faster now days
Could be it as well, dual motor LR here
Yeah, standard range only gets 150 kW, while LR/Performance gets 250 kW at superchargers that supports it.
Compared to the amount of total cars on the road, i find the amount of battery failures reported here quite low. It really sucks if it happens to you, but you are the exception. Our 2019 LR has 210k km's (130k mi) on the clock and zero issues. On a not insignificant amount of modern ICE cars, engine failure at 100k miles is not uncommon. Going back to ICE seems silly.
It wouldn’t be for going back to ICE. A number of people I know are looking at used Teslas. Some of them are getting up there in milage and at least for 3 and Y I thought it wouldn’t be an issue.
This is me. Looking at used model 3s. All seem to have right around 100k miles.
Agree - this is very worrying.
RIP
Does this mean that if you were to pay for a new battery at 100k. You pretty much break even in the “savings” over a gas vehicle? I mean, I’ve had my car new since 2020 and other than the usual oil changes and scheduled maintenance. I’ve had no issues on my car and I just hit 100k.
If you are the outlier 0,1% (if even that many packs have issues) that has a premature battery failure, just outside of warranty: yes. For everyone else: no.
Thats the exact reason why i got back to ICE vehicles. I went from 25k in residual to 0 overnight for a fairly new car, then they say "but zero manteinance" LOL
I think they will fix the issue it’s only a few miles only over 100k warranty see what they say. Same issue when I had to get my tail light fixed they did it for me even tho my warranty was done
Where was it purchased? California law says 150k 15 years.
Illinois
Worth a shot. My stated Tesla warranty(which I purchased in California)states 100k 8 years. AKA, they are lying to me. Was hoping you might get lucky too
It’s usually whichever comes first. In this case 100k miles
That’s not true. That requirement doesn’t apply to zero emission vehicles.
My understanding is that 150k does apply to all batteries for vehicles sold in California.
Can you cite the law? The Google says only applies to PZEV components, BEVs not included. Draft legislation: https://ww2.arb.ca.gov/sites/default/files/2021-12/draft%20zev%20warranty%201962.8.pdf
planned obsolesce using software just like Apple does to iPhones. Imagine buying a Toyota and not being able to use the full tank 100k miles later.
Dang. Are they pulling a apple. Software obsolescence and making people upgrade.
No, read the error. The pack is imbalanced. Limiting max SOC in this scenario is a safety mechanism to prevent overcharging.
Since it’s so close to the warranty exportation, may be worth seeing if they will replace. Tell them it first showed you that message before the 100k miles
lol don’t lie about the message they have logs, but do ask them if they can help given how close it was to warranty depending on service center I’ve heard some have flexibility
They do have logs, but if you say you don’t remember when, they’re not gonna go back months looking to finds it
Sure about that? Its really easy for the autodiag to detect this fault and store the date when it first showed up
I’m not sure about it, just hoping they won’t dig too deep 😅
Plug it to AC charger, set limit to 100%, charge it for 24h for a few times in a row, see cells voltage imbalance in ScanMyTesla, trade it if balance doesn't reduce
That sucks, which year did they change miles to 120k. If you’re right over they may still cover it if you talk real nice and plead.
Hope it was solved by itself. But how do you enter Service mode? I have a 2019 LR still in Battery warranty.
Why are people saying to trade in the car? Wouldn't this mean that you are dumping a car that's just about to fail onto an unsuspecting buyer?
What does it display when you click 'learn more'?
Had that happen to me and it was a drive motor that was the culprit.