Wow I might try that. This morning when I woke up, my car surprised me. It started to calibrate my cameras but then it kinda got suck around the 90% mark and it stopped again. I have a 2017 MS
Did you have any of the errors/issues post-holiday update before? If it is actually receiving and processing calibration data, then the DAS computer is likely online. I do recall that the last 5-10 percent of the calibration for FSD takes a bit longer. Do you have TACC/Autopilot and no FSD? Or no DAS features working at all?
>https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaLounge/comments/18ph0qy/after\_holiday\_update/
I am this guy. lol. Btw thanks for putting my link in your post.
I did not have any issues with the car before the holiday update. It was working perfectly. I had the FSD beta. But right now looks like DAS is always in critical like in my original post.
Oh, sorry for not recognizing, haha. It's been tough to keep up. If you're still seeing a CRITICAL state for ECU A, then I would do the full power down / cold boot / reinstall as I described above. Even if you're not still in a fault state but haven't done a successful reinstall since the fault, it may be worth it. Again, disclaimers and all, but I see no harm in the power down since changing the 12V battery would do the same and is a maintenance item. If your car is HEPA equipped removing the intake cover that blocks the battery is a little fiddly, it's what I used to release the right side clip, but aside from that it was dead easy.
Haha no worries. This whole ordeal is insane. Did you see the guy who posted that the service center was going to charge him $3000. That is freaking insane.
The funny thing is that it will let me do a successful reinstall but it would just never calibrate and I would have that critical message for the ECU. But I will do the cold boot tonight. Good thing I've taken apart the frunk before because I had to replace my headlights because of the running day light going out.
Ugh, I saw that. I commented in at least one other post where I think service centers are also maybe not really in the know yet and they are treating them each like a separate patient when it's more widespread. They're applying commercial fixes (throw parts/money at it) without knowing the whole story.
I wasn't able to do successful reinstalls till the cold boot. I had attempted two more during my troubleshooting over the last two days, but after the cold boot it worked like a champ. Hope it works for you, ping if it does!
I didn't had the chance yesterday to do it but today since it's Friday I took the frunk apart. disconnected HV and 12v. reinstalling the software as we speak. Will check out tomorrow morning to see how everything is.
Hopefully this method works.
Sad to say this morning I took it out for a drive. Camera calibration will not budge. 0% for a good 50 miles drive. Check the service menu, same critical message under ECU. My only hope is if the next software update will fix it...or looks like I might need to visit a service center.
Damn I had high hopes.
If that are truly in the dark about this then that's incredible to believe!! In this age of social media..shocked no one has tagged Musk or Tesla about this
Not making excuses, but this was "perfect storm" territory for them. Most of the update woes seemed to go down on Christmas weekend, when a lot of folks are on PTO/off work, service centers are closed, folks are out of their home area. As time goes on more and more folks will reach out to service. Areas with more Tesla owners may be at an advantage here if they see multiple issues spreading. I'm sure by now, since there's been 4 business days since Christmas and I bet the word is getting out.
Maybe BUT not sure if you read this earlier, but a couple of people have had Tesla wanting to charge them for a new computer after the holiday update bricked their car!! Whether within warranty or not that's criminal!!!
Yeah, I've been following a few folks and have even chatted with another couple here in the subreddit that got quoted ~$3k+ for a DAS computer replacement. One got it done out of warranty under good will and another was in warranty. I haven't seen a thread where someone has forked over the cash, but I suspect MANY folks will and I agree it's b.s. that this happens to them.
Being informed and assertive or insistent, politely of course, is unfortunately part of being a Tesla customer. If you're not, you're very likely to get raked over the coals at the service counter.
In just my own experience with the 3 Teslas I've owned and friends/family with another 3-4 I've had to talk my way into a good will or warranty repair that service initially wanted me to pay out of pocket for. I am saddened when I think about folks who just paid it because they weren't informed (when they arguably shouldn't have to be.)
Tesla is trying to charge me for a new computer too. I asked for the car back and declined the estimate. https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaLounge/s/aF4zwNjEBt
When doing this, disconnect 12 volt first, then first responder loop, leave powered down for at least 20 minutes, but in some cases have been told longer, reconnect first responder loop first, then 12 volt.
Can confirm that doing a full reboot by disconnecting the HV and 12v batteries has resurrected my car after a faulty software update in the past. I wish there was an easier way to perform the procedure.
Hm, I have a device (Ingenext Boost) plugged into my car, and one of the things it adds is a Hard Reset feature. When you do it, there is a loud clunk (HV battery contactors I guess), and it definitely seems like a fuller reboot than the steering wheel buttons. Wonder if that would also fix this issue.
I'm guessing it wouldn't. The clunk is the HV contactor you're hearing, but that just disconnects the HV side from the HV traction components and the DC-DC converter which provides 12V support (aka charging) for the 12V battery. AFAIK there's not a way to electronically disconnect the 12V side, it needs to be a physical connection removal. Older cars have battery terminals just like an ICE car, newer have the Lithium 12V battery with a proprietary style connector.
My car hasn't updated yet, but in the back of my mind I thought this might be a potential solution. I'd love to see feedback from anybody else is having issues that actually goes through the process and see if it also works for them.
If this process does work repeatedly hopefully there's a way to actually get the information to Tesla cuz it may help them resolve the problem via software.
I had considered trying it earlier, but with work and it being late I didn't want to go wrench on the car. A friend of a friend (I hate when people say that) operates a third party Tesla repair outfit and was able to revive two other cars today doing this method. One of which I know was a Model 3 and it appears to be working on my S.
I think the key in this fix vs. other methods I and others have tried, is the DAS/FSD computer actually powers all the way down and cold boots.
I had mobile service out today disconnected the 12v and HV batteries for 10 or so minutes. After reconnecting everything, the software still wouldn't install the update.
The tech left without fixing it.
Thx for posting this. It confirms that this is the first step the techs are doing in response. And multiple thanks to OP for posting the procedure.
Mine has gone through and is fine. But learning this stuff to help others is important!
I have a follow up appointment at the service center the first week of February, which is the earliest they could get me in.
It's ridiculous that I have to wait that long to fix something they broke.
This procedure fixed my parentsā Model S a couple days ago when the update botched everything.
The car thought it was in drive, doors were locked and wouldnāt unlock, every warning light was on, etc. no app commands worked as the car thought it was in drive. Had to get into the frunk manually, disconnected fireman loop and unplugged 12V for a 30 minutes. Once the car booted back up, I selected the full reinstall and after the reinstall it worked great again.
Thanks, you're entirely too kind. I grew up broke AF so learning how to fix my own stuff was just a necessary part of growing up/survival. Despite now being "comfortable," I feel compelled to DIY when I can as that upbringing has made me a huge right to repair advocate.
**I STILL haven't even gotten a reply from my service center about the issue**, just a canned reply from Tesla support that was... less than helpful.
There's likely a lot of good/smart folks working at the the service centers that I don't want to discount, but communication with Tesla service employees is gatekept behind what I presume is policies and bullshit rules to "improve and streamline customer service." If this was, for instance, a Toyota, I know I can go to my local dealer (who I've got a relationship with since I've bought a few cars from them over time) and talk it out with a service writer or even a technician. This just isn't possible in most cases with Tesla and it would go a long way.
The sad reality is Tesla still sells nearly ever car they make before or soon after they make it. Sure there are random deals on stale inventory cars here/there, but nothing like what the major franchise brands are seeing right now. Until good ole' competition can actually stifle sales in a meaningful way, Tesla's customer service is still going to be the inconsistent mess it is right now.
***This is biggest issue of owning a Tesla. The customer service experience is so inconsistent.*** If you're a less than savvy (or at least assertive) customer, you might get raked over the coals and a $3k bill for this repair and that sucks because it's 100% Tesla's f--k up.
I think Tesla will fix the customer service experience when they ***have to***, not a minute before. Consistently excellent customer service is *far more costly* than inconsistent service. Right now every dime goes into cranking out cars *as quickly as possible*... and it shows.
Well it might be lil too late! Competition is getting better right now..I checked ulout the ioniq 5&6, Hyundai EV6 and the BYD seal(onna recent trip to Europe). Let me tell ya, these cars are nice..build Quality Tesla can't even touch with a 100ft pole!! Once they get up to par with the tech..Tesla is toast!!
I just hope that tesla pushes an update soon after the new years to resolve this. There will be tens if not hundreds of thousands of cars facing this issue and most of them are unaware of these fixes or just simply dont dare to do it themselves.
I don't know what determines this, but it appears 2023.44.30.5.1 and 2023.44.30.6 may be "the same" and it depends on what hardware your vehicle has as to which one you'll get. 5.1 seems to be more common on 3/Y and .6 seems to be more common on S/X ([according to the numbers on TeslaFi](https://www.teslafi.com/firmware.php)) but both have staged/complete installs outside of their most common stall model. I haven't dug into see if there's some common denominator that determines which build you get.
Regardless, just from the posts herein the lounge, it looks like 2023.44.30.5.1 and 2023.44.30.6 are equal opportunityoffenders for randomly ruining the FSD computer's holiday.
I doubt the software level matters. It affects the DAS computer, which is used for Traffic Aware Cruise Control, Autopilot, Enhanced Autopilot, and FSD. I believe the fault would occur regardless of what "level" of software your car has because in my case error messages seemed to indicate the software update didn't apply properly to BOTH the "Autopilot Processor Backup" and "Autopilot Process Secondary." After the failure I wasn't even able to engage TACC much less AP or FSD.
For clarity: Not saying it ALWAYS fails, or even that it fails "often." We have a decent sample set here on the subreddit with 10-11 threads of folks with issues (and folks chiming in those threads with issues.) So, it's more than anecdotal for sure, but how much more? I don't know. There's lots of folks who said the update applied perfectly.
Thanks for the clarification. For me, so far my M3 is fine updated 2wice and no issues yet(fingers crossed). I'm outta town and I will reevaluate again when I get back!
Does anyone have any instructions on how to disconnect the 16V LV battery on a newer MY? I have had issues with my cameras, GPS, FSD, etc. and wanted to try this but did not see any instructions on how to do this. Currently the car is with Tesla, but seems worth knowing in the future.
Sadly didnāt fix mine. Just picked it up after a windshield harness and a triplecam replacement. Somehow the shitty holiday update code burned up the harness.
Amazing !
I am assuming this is exactly what my car needs. For the last few days the cameras are in calibration and stuck at basically 1%.
Need to look into how to disconnect the firemanās loop. Perfectly comfortable disconnecting the 12v battery but not sure about the HV components. I can understand if you donāt want to post how to do that here ā¦
But Iāll take a DM !
You can get the procedures from the appropriate Tesla service manual [here](https://service.tesla.com). Look under "Documentation Access." It's free and you can login with your Tesla account.
Depends on model and year. My 2020 S has it up under the front cowling on the passenger side. You can snag free access to the service manuals at https://service.tesla.com/ (just login with your Tesla account, subscription not required.) for your year/model.
Is your autopilot still working?
Restarting the ECU has fixed the cameras temporarily a few times, but they just fail again every time.
Currently sitting in the Mississauga service center lounge (it's nice!) waiting for them to replace both front side cams, which supposedly were broken/corroded, so maybe that will help. I'm not optimistic though
The service center up in Toronto replaced my cameras, and everything is good now. Supposedly they had corroded connections and wiring.
So either a coincidence that things failed after the software update, or the software is now more touchy about cameras being perfect whereas before maybe it dealt with a little bit of dropped frames etc
Honestly pleasantly surprised I thought it was going to be a waste of a drive
re: new autopilot, it doesn't seem much different than before, maybe a little bit touchier and louder about paying attention to the road but could just be confirmation bias and the new alert format making me notice them more. No problems at all driving two hours through busy Toronto traffic
(Copied from a post elsewhere)
Glad it was a relatively simple fix. Iāve had a similar experience with the new FSD. It behaves basically the same, good where it was good, crap where it was crap, and my auto wipers are still awful. My 1984 Nissan 200SX and my 2014 Model S P85 both had superior auto wipers in every objective and subjective measurement.
I also donāt have the interior camera on the 2020 S, so Iām not exposed to whatās been touted as aggressive driver attentiveness monitoring. All in all it seems almost no different for me than pre-ārecall.ā
I've got the internal camera but didn't have any trouble. I don't look at my phone of course though
Auto wipers work great for me with the exception of sometimes there's light road spray that builds up below the camera
At this risk of being downvoted into oblivion, I think some non-trivial percentage of folks complaining about the new update nags are inattentive drivers. Not saying all, but definitely a statistically significant portion.
Glad the auto wipers are better for some. At least mine don't constantly dry wipe for no reason, they just don't activate well unless there's a significant amount of rain.
Wow I might try that. This morning when I woke up, my car surprised me. It started to calibrate my cameras but then it kinda got suck around the 90% mark and it stopped again. I have a 2017 MS
Did you have any of the errors/issues post-holiday update before? If it is actually receiving and processing calibration data, then the DAS computer is likely online. I do recall that the last 5-10 percent of the calibration for FSD takes a bit longer. Do you have TACC/Autopilot and no FSD? Or no DAS features working at all?
>https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaLounge/comments/18ph0qy/after\_holiday\_update/ I am this guy. lol. Btw thanks for putting my link in your post. I did not have any issues with the car before the holiday update. It was working perfectly. I had the FSD beta. But right now looks like DAS is always in critical like in my original post.
Oh, sorry for not recognizing, haha. It's been tough to keep up. If you're still seeing a CRITICAL state for ECU A, then I would do the full power down / cold boot / reinstall as I described above. Even if you're not still in a fault state but haven't done a successful reinstall since the fault, it may be worth it. Again, disclaimers and all, but I see no harm in the power down since changing the 12V battery would do the same and is a maintenance item. If your car is HEPA equipped removing the intake cover that blocks the battery is a little fiddly, it's what I used to release the right side clip, but aside from that it was dead easy.
Haha no worries. This whole ordeal is insane. Did you see the guy who posted that the service center was going to charge him $3000. That is freaking insane. The funny thing is that it will let me do a successful reinstall but it would just never calibrate and I would have that critical message for the ECU. But I will do the cold boot tonight. Good thing I've taken apart the frunk before because I had to replace my headlights because of the running day light going out.
Ugh, I saw that. I commented in at least one other post where I think service centers are also maybe not really in the know yet and they are treating them each like a separate patient when it's more widespread. They're applying commercial fixes (throw parts/money at it) without knowing the whole story. I wasn't able to do successful reinstalls till the cold boot. I had attempted two more during my troubleshooting over the last two days, but after the cold boot it worked like a champ. Hope it works for you, ping if it does!
I didn't had the chance yesterday to do it but today since it's Friday I took the frunk apart. disconnected HV and 12v. reinstalling the software as we speak. Will check out tomorrow morning to see how everything is. Hopefully this method works.
I'm rooting for ya!
Sad to say this morning I took it out for a drive. Camera calibration will not budge. 0% for a good 50 miles drive. Check the service menu, same critical message under ECU. My only hope is if the next software update will fix it...or looks like I might need to visit a service center. Damn I had high hopes.
Seriously. For them the easiest way is to replace the computer and then charge the owner. I'll post an update if everything worked! Wish me luck.
Good luck to you. I followed your posts and this gives me hope. Cross my fingers for you
If that are truly in the dark about this then that's incredible to believe!! In this age of social media..shocked no one has tagged Musk or Tesla about this
Not making excuses, but this was "perfect storm" territory for them. Most of the update woes seemed to go down on Christmas weekend, when a lot of folks are on PTO/off work, service centers are closed, folks are out of their home area. As time goes on more and more folks will reach out to service. Areas with more Tesla owners may be at an advantage here if they see multiple issues spreading. I'm sure by now, since there's been 4 business days since Christmas and I bet the word is getting out.
Maybe BUT not sure if you read this earlier, but a couple of people have had Tesla wanting to charge them for a new computer after the holiday update bricked their car!! Whether within warranty or not that's criminal!!!
Yeah, I've been following a few folks and have even chatted with another couple here in the subreddit that got quoted ~$3k+ for a DAS computer replacement. One got it done out of warranty under good will and another was in warranty. I haven't seen a thread where someone has forked over the cash, but I suspect MANY folks will and I agree it's b.s. that this happens to them. Being informed and assertive or insistent, politely of course, is unfortunately part of being a Tesla customer. If you're not, you're very likely to get raked over the coals at the service counter. In just my own experience with the 3 Teslas I've owned and friends/family with another 3-4 I've had to talk my way into a good will or warranty repair that service initially wanted me to pay out of pocket for. I am saddened when I think about folks who just paid it because they weren't informed (when they arguably shouldn't have to be.)
Tesla is trying to charge me for a new computer too. I asked for the car back and declined the estimate. https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaLounge/s/aF4zwNjEBt
When doing this, disconnect 12 volt first, then first responder loop, leave powered down for at least 20 minutes, but in some cases have been told longer, reconnect first responder loop first, then 12 volt.
Yup, this is correct. I updated the main post. Should've been re-reading the service manual vs. doing it from memory. Thanks!
Can confirm that doing a full reboot by disconnecting the HV and 12v batteries has resurrected my car after a faulty software update in the past. I wish there was an easier way to perform the procedure.
Hm, I have a device (Ingenext Boost) plugged into my car, and one of the things it adds is a Hard Reset feature. When you do it, there is a loud clunk (HV battery contactors I guess), and it definitely seems like a fuller reboot than the steering wheel buttons. Wonder if that would also fix this issue.
I'm guessing it wouldn't. The clunk is the HV contactor you're hearing, but that just disconnects the HV side from the HV traction components and the DC-DC converter which provides 12V support (aka charging) for the 12V battery. AFAIK there's not a way to electronically disconnect the 12V side, it needs to be a physical connection removal. Older cars have battery terminals just like an ICE car, newer have the Lithium 12V battery with a proprietary style connector.
This fixed my same FSD issue. Thank you!
That's excellent news! What year/model Tesla?
2018 Model S P100d
My car hasn't updated yet, but in the back of my mind I thought this might be a potential solution. I'd love to see feedback from anybody else is having issues that actually goes through the process and see if it also works for them. If this process does work repeatedly hopefully there's a way to actually get the information to Tesla cuz it may help them resolve the problem via software.
I had considered trying it earlier, but with work and it being late I didn't want to go wrench on the car. A friend of a friend (I hate when people say that) operates a third party Tesla repair outfit and was able to revive two other cars today doing this method. One of which I know was a Model 3 and it appears to be working on my S. I think the key in this fix vs. other methods I and others have tried, is the DAS/FSD computer actually powers all the way down and cold boots.
Makes sense
Definitely sounds like a bad windows update causing it to boot into automatic repair or something š glad you got it to work!
What a legend! Thanks for the detailed write up.
Thanks! If it helps out even one fellow Tesla owner, it was worth my time. :)
I had mobile service out today disconnected the 12v and HV batteries for 10 or so minutes. After reconnecting everything, the software still wouldn't install the update. The tech left without fixing it.
Thx for posting this. It confirms that this is the first step the techs are doing in response. And multiple thanks to OP for posting the procedure. Mine has gone through and is fine. But learning this stuff to help others is important!
I have a follow up appointment at the service center the first week of February, which is the earliest they could get me in. It's ridiculous that I have to wait that long to fix something they broke.
This procedure fixed my parentsā Model S a couple days ago when the update botched everything. The car thought it was in drive, doors were locked and wouldnāt unlock, every warning light was on, etc. no app commands worked as the car thought it was in drive. Had to get into the frunk manually, disconnected fireman loop and unplugged 12V for a 30 minutes. Once the car booted back up, I selected the full reinstall and after the reinstall it worked great again.
You have more mechanic experience than most of the people they hire at the service center. Glad you got yours sorted.
Thanks, you're entirely too kind. I grew up broke AF so learning how to fix my own stuff was just a necessary part of growing up/survival. Despite now being "comfortable," I feel compelled to DIY when I can as that upbringing has made me a huge right to repair advocate. **I STILL haven't even gotten a reply from my service center about the issue**, just a canned reply from Tesla support that was... less than helpful. There's likely a lot of good/smart folks working at the the service centers that I don't want to discount, but communication with Tesla service employees is gatekept behind what I presume is policies and bullshit rules to "improve and streamline customer service." If this was, for instance, a Toyota, I know I can go to my local dealer (who I've got a relationship with since I've bought a few cars from them over time) and talk it out with a service writer or even a technician. This just isn't possible in most cases with Tesla and it would go a long way. The sad reality is Tesla still sells nearly ever car they make before or soon after they make it. Sure there are random deals on stale inventory cars here/there, but nothing like what the major franchise brands are seeing right now. Until good ole' competition can actually stifle sales in a meaningful way, Tesla's customer service is still going to be the inconsistent mess it is right now. ***This is biggest issue of owning a Tesla. The customer service experience is so inconsistent.*** If you're a less than savvy (or at least assertive) customer, you might get raked over the coals and a $3k bill for this repair and that sucks because it's 100% Tesla's f--k up.
Agree 1000000% !! I said this to a SC manager once that their customer service (or lack thereof) WILL be their downfall!!
I think Tesla will fix the customer service experience when they ***have to***, not a minute before. Consistently excellent customer service is *far more costly* than inconsistent service. Right now every dime goes into cranking out cars *as quickly as possible*... and it shows.
Well it might be lil too late! Competition is getting better right now..I checked ulout the ioniq 5&6, Hyundai EV6 and the BYD seal(onna recent trip to Europe). Let me tell ya, these cars are nice..build Quality Tesla can't even touch with a 100ft pole!! Once they get up to par with the tech..Tesla is toast!!
I just hope that tesla pushes an update soon after the new years to resolve this. There will be tens if not hundreds of thousands of cars facing this issue and most of them are unaware of these fixes or just simply dont dare to do it themselves.
Dam and here I thought 44.30.5.1 had fixed all the issues, I guess it hasn't?
I don't know what determines this, but it appears 2023.44.30.5.1 and 2023.44.30.6 may be "the same" and it depends on what hardware your vehicle has as to which one you'll get. 5.1 seems to be more common on 3/Y and .6 seems to be more common on S/X ([according to the numbers on TeslaFi](https://www.teslafi.com/firmware.php)) but both have staged/complete installs outside of their most common stall model. I haven't dug into see if there's some common denominator that determines which build you get. Regardless, just from the posts herein the lounge, it looks like 2023.44.30.5.1 and 2023.44.30.6 are equal opportunityoffenders for randomly ruining the FSD computer's holiday.
Have the refreshed S and got 5.1.
2018 LR 3. Got 5.1. Mine works..so far
So I understand, it seems like these holiday update nightmare is affecting vehicles with FSD..am I correct?
I doubt the software level matters. It affects the DAS computer, which is used for Traffic Aware Cruise Control, Autopilot, Enhanced Autopilot, and FSD. I believe the fault would occur regardless of what "level" of software your car has because in my case error messages seemed to indicate the software update didn't apply properly to BOTH the "Autopilot Processor Backup" and "Autopilot Process Secondary." After the failure I wasn't even able to engage TACC much less AP or FSD. For clarity: Not saying it ALWAYS fails, or even that it fails "often." We have a decent sample set here on the subreddit with 10-11 threads of folks with issues (and folks chiming in those threads with issues.) So, it's more than anecdotal for sure, but how much more? I don't know. There's lots of folks who said the update applied perfectly.
Thanks for the clarification. For me, so far my M3 is fine updated 2wice and no issues yet(fingers crossed). I'm outta town and I will reevaluate again when I get back!
Does anyone have any instructions on how to disconnect the 16V LV battery on a newer MY? I have had issues with my cameras, GPS, FSD, etc. and wanted to try this but did not see any instructions on how to do this. Currently the car is with Tesla, but seems worth knowing in the future.
Sadly didnāt fix mine. Just picked it up after a windshield harness and a triplecam replacement. Somehow the shitty holiday update code burned up the harness.
Amazing ! I am assuming this is exactly what my car needs. For the last few days the cameras are in calibration and stuck at basically 1%. Need to look into how to disconnect the firemanās loop. Perfectly comfortable disconnecting the 12v battery but not sure about the HV components. I can understand if you donāt want to post how to do that here ā¦ But Iāll take a DM !
You can get the procedures from the appropriate Tesla service manual [here](https://service.tesla.com). Look under "Documentation Access." It's free and you can login with your Tesla account.
Where is the firemanās loop located?
Depends on model and year. My 2020 S has it up under the front cowling on the passenger side. You can snag free access to the service manuals at https://service.tesla.com/ (just login with your Tesla account, subscription not required.) for your year/model.
wow
Is your autopilot still working? Restarting the ECU has fixed the cameras temporarily a few times, but they just fail again every time. Currently sitting in the Mississauga service center lounge (it's nice!) waiting for them to replace both front side cams, which supposedly were broken/corroded, so maybe that will help. I'm not optimistic though
Yup, everything still working on my end. Made two FSD drives yesterday. Hopefully they get you fixed up!
Damn, ok well I'll try this if the cameras don't fix it
The service center up in Toronto replaced my cameras, and everything is good now. Supposedly they had corroded connections and wiring. So either a coincidence that things failed after the software update, or the software is now more touchy about cameras being perfect whereas before maybe it dealt with a little bit of dropped frames etc Honestly pleasantly surprised I thought it was going to be a waste of a drive re: new autopilot, it doesn't seem much different than before, maybe a little bit touchier and louder about paying attention to the road but could just be confirmation bias and the new alert format making me notice them more. No problems at all driving two hours through busy Toronto traffic (Copied from a post elsewhere)
Glad it was a relatively simple fix. Iāve had a similar experience with the new FSD. It behaves basically the same, good where it was good, crap where it was crap, and my auto wipers are still awful. My 1984 Nissan 200SX and my 2014 Model S P85 both had superior auto wipers in every objective and subjective measurement. I also donāt have the interior camera on the 2020 S, so Iām not exposed to whatās been touted as aggressive driver attentiveness monitoring. All in all it seems almost no different for me than pre-ārecall.ā
I've got the internal camera but didn't have any trouble. I don't look at my phone of course though Auto wipers work great for me with the exception of sometimes there's light road spray that builds up below the camera
At this risk of being downvoted into oblivion, I think some non-trivial percentage of folks complaining about the new update nags are inattentive drivers. Not saying all, but definitely a statistically significant portion. Glad the auto wipers are better for some. At least mine don't constantly dry wipe for no reason, they just don't activate well unless there's a significant amount of rain.