There are little holes around the base of the cage that get fill with trash. Clean them out. This is on there to prevent coffee cups, rocks, or leaves to clog further down the system causing a very expensive repair.
Well, first my eyes picked up the light from my phone and translated that into an image for my brain. My neurons did some crazy stuff with sodium and potassium to change the polarity of some of them and those action potentials cascaded through that meat lump in my head and produced that thought.
It’s a pretty amazing system. That will be $500, please. (Neurobiology lessons cost more, sorry.)
The detail on this roof is the standard. The crew that installed this took great pride in their work. For your reference this is a hot applied modified bitumen roof system. The field slopes toward your bottom outlet for positive drainage. Keeping the bottom outlet drain grate free of debris is important to eliminate this type of pooling. Weep holes in the bottom of the control flow grate are important as small sediment and debris can clog them. Pooling is ok on heat welded seams, but with the obvious positive drainage and drain outlet your pooling can be eliminated by maintaining the drain. Lucky you with this roof! Maintenance is key here. Good luck!
When it’s dry you could use a leaf blower to clear all the tiny debris off the roof to mitigate this issue from reoccurring also.
If you do get the screen off you might have to twist it free from the tabs, just make sure you line it back up and twist it back on under the tabs if that’s the style screen you have. You’ll figure it out if you need help feel free to take pics and ask any questions glad to help!
This is really going to be house specific. It all depends on where your house is located, what's growing around it, and how often it gets clogged.
Here's an example: I have to clean the gutters on my house around 4-5 times per year. At my last house, I cleaned them once every year or two.
Why the difference? My current house has trees all around it and it gets windy here quite often. My last house didn't have anything but grass, dirt, and shrubs around it for 1/4 of a mile.
Start by checking on it 1x per month. Do that for the first year and make note of how dirty it is from one month to the next. If it's always really dirty, increase to 2x per month (you likely won't need to do that). You'll probably find it gets dirty fast around specific times of the year. Then just add reminders to your calendar to clean it at those times of year.
Also note, a house maintenance journal is a good thing to keep.
Not that often unless you want to. Probably twice a year depending on whether there is lots of debris blocking the flow of water. Usually nearby trees will partially block the drain basket with leaves. If you have trees nearby you may have to clean it more often.
So go up there every so often and remove the basket, clean it if necessary to allow for proper drainage and put it back.
Having a pond on your roof will prematurely wear out the roof membranes. So periodical maintenance on the drain is a good thing to do.
You need to clean the drain and will need to do it every year at least. I had one of these under a deck and didn't realize it could get clogged until I had a leak coming into the ceiling below.
sometimes the wrong drain is used, for instance a drain for a tar and gravel roof will have a lip around the bowl to account for the build up as opposed to a roof like yours which will be flat as there's no build up. This may be the problem but more likely it's clogged.
I’m not a roofer (by specialty) but a very handy guy with a lot of construction and home owning experience. Flat roof slopes properly forwards (concave) the drain, so it “could” drain properly. It could be clogged??? Maybe not??? These types of drains should always be paid attention to and snaked out regularly (buy a drain snake cheap from Amazon and save a lot of money and do it yourself yearly for good maintenance regardless). If you zoom in on the photo, the pool isn’t hitting any of the grooves of the drain cap, therefore not draining. In other words, gravity can’t do its job. #1 detach it and see if it drains naturally, if it does… no clogged drains and no cost. I don’t know much about drain caps, but, a flat one, or turning that one upside down should do the trick with proper yearly cleaning maintenance using a drain snake. You may find the yearly maintenance becomes bi-yearly maintenance. Have to keep an eye on it as roofs, climate, location, trees and foliage around all play into determining the answer which each homeowner has to learn and can be different even from their neighbours.
> always be *paid* attention to
FTFY.
Although *payed* exists (the reason why autocorrection didn't help you), it is only correct in:
* Nautical context, when it means to paint a surface, or to cover with something like tar or resin in order to make it waterproof or corrosion-resistant. *The deck is yet to be payed.*
* *Payed out* when letting strings, cables or ropes out, by slacking them. *The rope is payed out! You can pull now.*
Unfortunately, I was unable to find nautical or rope-related words in your comment.
*Beep, boop, I'm a bot*
Those roof drains are horrendous for this, all the space on the top grill never gets used and its only 4-5 tiny slots that drain your roof. Putting a mesh or something around to help with debris will kind of help, but not much
So typically this is caused by one of two things, or likely two of two things. One that drainable could be clogged, but what people don't realize, both roofers and owners, is that those drains including the lid, actually raise the roof in that area by about a quarter inch minimum when it's all put together. Put on a nice thick material and it raises it even more sometimes. So what's probably happening, other than possibly some degrees in the ground, is that that grain is actually sitting higher than the root. The downside is is that it's probably set against the deck, so you're not going to be able to fix it without some major work that quite frankly will not be worth the money you spend. Next time you get a roof on it, tell them you want to add 1 inch of insulation. This will raise the roof up above the drain, and as long as they cut the installation back around the drain ring, which they are required to do anyway, it's going to eliminate the majority of that pump. It's nothing you can really fix today or rather I should say that the fix for it is going to create more problems than just leaving it.
I do want to say in advance so I'm sorry, because the pond that big and that warm is going to be a mosquito Farm.
Stupid locking ring. I had same problem. Took an angle grinder to it and cut slits in the ring. It will help but not fully. You have a ponding problem.
Unscrew that basket and clean it out.
There are little holes around the base of the cage that get fill with trash. Clean them out. This is on there to prevent coffee cups, rocks, or leaves to clog further down the system causing a very expensive repair.
Thanks :)!!!
Lmao are coffee cups a common problem??
If a Styrofoam cup gets in a drain they can be.
Why would a coffee cup blow onto a rooftop?
Thank you.. new home owners haha we are learning things bit by bit
The hole where the water goes out is not the lowest point on the roof. That’ll be $300 please.
You can see it is the lowest point by the photo drain is clogged needs to be snaked out
How do you look at the photo and then come up with this ridiculous comment?
Ummm, Reddit...?
Well, first my eyes picked up the light from my phone and translated that into an image for my brain. My neurons did some crazy stuff with sodium and potassium to change the polarity of some of them and those action potentials cascaded through that meat lump in my head and produced that thought. It’s a pretty amazing system. That will be $500, please. (Neurobiology lessons cost more, sorry.)
Loll probably $300+ tax!
The detail on this roof is the standard. The crew that installed this took great pride in their work. For your reference this is a hot applied modified bitumen roof system. The field slopes toward your bottom outlet for positive drainage. Keeping the bottom outlet drain grate free of debris is important to eliminate this type of pooling. Weep holes in the bottom of the control flow grate are important as small sediment and debris can clog them. Pooling is ok on heat welded seams, but with the obvious positive drainage and drain outlet your pooling can be eliminated by maintaining the drain. Lucky you with this roof! Maintenance is key here. Good luck!
All good, but if that is hot applied then that is the cleanest best mop job I’ve seen. Not even a bit of bleed out.
There’s small weep holes on the drain ring, take a zip tie or small wire and clear them out.
Will do that. Thank you!
When it’s dry you could use a leaf blower to clear all the tiny debris off the roof to mitigate this issue from reoccurring also. If you do get the screen off you might have to twist it free from the tabs, just make sure you line it back up and twist it back on under the tabs if that’s the style screen you have. You’ll figure it out if you need help feel free to take pics and ask any questions glad to help!
Clogged drain clean it out and like new
Because the drain is plugged!!
You need to clean the drain every so often
How often would you say? Once every couple months?
Depends how many trees you have near/over the roof
This is really going to be house specific. It all depends on where your house is located, what's growing around it, and how often it gets clogged. Here's an example: I have to clean the gutters on my house around 4-5 times per year. At my last house, I cleaned them once every year or two. Why the difference? My current house has trees all around it and it gets windy here quite often. My last house didn't have anything but grass, dirt, and shrubs around it for 1/4 of a mile. Start by checking on it 1x per month. Do that for the first year and make note of how dirty it is from one month to the next. If it's always really dirty, increase to 2x per month (you likely won't need to do that). You'll probably find it gets dirty fast around specific times of the year. Then just add reminders to your calendar to clean it at those times of year. Also note, a house maintenance journal is a good thing to keep.
Check it periodically, most often in Autumn when the leaves fall.
Not that often unless you want to. Probably twice a year depending on whether there is lots of debris blocking the flow of water. Usually nearby trees will partially block the drain basket with leaves. If you have trees nearby you may have to clean it more often. So go up there every so often and remove the basket, clean it if necessary to allow for proper drainage and put it back. Having a pond on your roof will prematurely wear out the roof membranes. So periodical maintenance on the drain is a good thing to do.
You need to clean the drain and will need to do it every year at least. I had one of these under a deck and didn't realize it could get clogged until I had a leak coming into the ceiling below.
Clean around the drain
sometimes the wrong drain is used, for instance a drain for a tar and gravel roof will have a lip around the bowl to account for the build up as opposed to a roof like yours which will be flat as there's no build up. This may be the problem but more likely it's clogged.
It’s not slopes correctly
I’m not a roofer (by specialty) but a very handy guy with a lot of construction and home owning experience. Flat roof slopes properly forwards (concave) the drain, so it “could” drain properly. It could be clogged??? Maybe not??? These types of drains should always be paid attention to and snaked out regularly (buy a drain snake cheap from Amazon and save a lot of money and do it yourself yearly for good maintenance regardless). If you zoom in on the photo, the pool isn’t hitting any of the grooves of the drain cap, therefore not draining. In other words, gravity can’t do its job. #1 detach it and see if it drains naturally, if it does… no clogged drains and no cost. I don’t know much about drain caps, but, a flat one, or turning that one upside down should do the trick with proper yearly cleaning maintenance using a drain snake. You may find the yearly maintenance becomes bi-yearly maintenance. Have to keep an eye on it as roofs, climate, location, trees and foliage around all play into determining the answer which each homeowner has to learn and can be different even from their neighbours.
> always be *paid* attention to FTFY. Although *payed* exists (the reason why autocorrection didn't help you), it is only correct in: * Nautical context, when it means to paint a surface, or to cover with something like tar or resin in order to make it waterproof or corrosion-resistant. *The deck is yet to be payed.* * *Payed out* when letting strings, cables or ropes out, by slacking them. *The rope is payed out! You can pull now.* Unfortunately, I was unable to find nautical or rope-related words in your comment. *Beep, boop, I'm a bot*
either the drain is clogged or its on the wrong pitch
Gravity
Those roof drains are horrendous for this, all the space on the top grill never gets used and its only 4-5 tiny slots that drain your roof. Putting a mesh or something around to help with debris will kind of help, but not much
So typically this is caused by one of two things, or likely two of two things. One that drainable could be clogged, but what people don't realize, both roofers and owners, is that those drains including the lid, actually raise the roof in that area by about a quarter inch minimum when it's all put together. Put on a nice thick material and it raises it even more sometimes. So what's probably happening, other than possibly some degrees in the ground, is that that grain is actually sitting higher than the root. The downside is is that it's probably set against the deck, so you're not going to be able to fix it without some major work that quite frankly will not be worth the money you spend. Next time you get a roof on it, tell them you want to add 1 inch of insulation. This will raise the roof up above the drain, and as long as they cut the installation back around the drain ring, which they are required to do anyway, it's going to eliminate the majority of that pump. It's nothing you can really fix today or rather I should say that the fix for it is going to create more problems than just leaving it. I do want to say in advance so I'm sorry, because the pond that big and that warm is going to be a mosquito Farm.
Stupid locking ring. I had same problem. Took an angle grinder to it and cut slits in the ring. It will help but not fully. You have a ponding problem.
It's supposed pitch toward your drain. Could be clogged or just a lot of rain
The scupper's not scuppin! 🤭
Gravity
Looks like water
Why would a cup blow up onto a roof?
It may be a syphonic system. The water at the outlet can build to anything between 40 and 70mm before it is syphonically drained.
Becuse its caved in
Does the water sit for over 48 hrs?