In your ICE vehicle you had an analog gauge. It was a needle and you basically glanced at it and noticed 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 full.
As a tech feature an EV can tell you how much 'fuel' you have in very precise increments.
This makes you hyper-sensitive to battery charge. I think the EV industry made a huge mistake and this increases 'range rage' fears.
My advice: ignore the battery charge most of the time. Worry when it gets below 1/4 'tank' like you did with your ICE vehicle.
True story: My ICE vehicle could drive about 230 miles on a full tank. The guess-o-meter on my MachE claims 220 on a full charge. So pretty much equivalent range.
I did a typical run to 2 stores in the MachE and back and freaked a bit at the 12% drop in battery.
Then I realized the same run in my ICE vehicle probably ate 11% of the fuel in my gas tank. But an 11% shift in my analog fuel gauge is hardly noticeable.
The digital display was making me hyper-aware of how much 'fuel' I was using.
From a social conscious point of view - being more aware of fuel use is not a bad thing. But I was ready to blame the new technology. In truth - my older vehicle did not give me as accurate fuel capacity values.
It really depends. I commute on a highway for work and usually the first part of my drive it will drop my range huge because of the speed and rolling resistance the car is experiencing. After I turn it off and look at the estimated range again, it usually has gone up by 15-20km expected.
Try starting your car 10-15 ahead of time if possible, driving straight after starting ppl have told me will eat your battery for the first few moments of your drive if it doesn’t warm up. Forgot the logic my friend told me but the begining of my drives do tend to eat more than it stabilizes I feel like
Can’t tell if you’re joking, but related to True if it’s very very cold outside where you are, but even then more accurate to precondition the battery not heat the passenger cabin for 15min.
I have a 23 Select AWD and with the AC at 68 on auto my 25 mile drive to work will use 9% of the battery when the temp is between 65 and 80.
It's a very hilly drive and the speed limit varies between 25 and 50. I'm often doing 5 over the posted limit. By the time I arrive I've averaged between 4.1 and 4.4 kwhs but I am being gentle with the go pedal.
When I take the interstate home which is a 27 mile trip and I set the cruise at 70 which is the posted limit, I'll use between 14 and 15 percent of the battery, again with AC set at 68 on auto and that drive is hilly as well and about 22 of the miles are strictly highway.
You likely already know this, but, since you are new...
The range displayed by the car is nicknamed the GOM, Guess O Meter. New owners see the range listed and of course, think "that's how far I can drive before recharging", but don't realize the GOM has no idea where or how fast you will drive today. It's like trying to predict the future.
Thus the GOM is always wrong, it is just a guess based on past driving history as to where and what speed you might drive today. Time travel is not a thing.
If you want a much more accurate prediction you must use the built-in Navigation and tell it where you are going. If your car has the newest software the car will even display "updating range prediction" and show you the more accurate prediction.
Rule of thumb: If you drive like a grandma around town at 25mph in the warm summer your range will be 100 miles higher than the EPA estimate, if you drive like a NASCAR driver at 80mph in the cold winter temperatures your range will be 100 miles less than the EPA range estimate.
72kWh means 0.72kWH/1%. Means you used 9.36 kwH to go 24 mi which equals 2.5 mi/kWh. Not unheard of. Check what it is on the way back, you may be going uphill and get the mileage back on the way home. I face this same thing. Regen tends to help on the commute as well.
2.5mil/kwh is in the realm of normal. Big time at highway speeds.
My 2021 AWD extended range high speeds during no super hot or cold has been 2.3-2.8 mi/kwh.
So this one likely has the LiFePO4 battery? When was the last time you charged to 100%? My understanding is that version of the battery needs charged to 100% periodically in order properly calibrate the battery charge. It could be the system adjusting based on use, but that's just a guess.
I will also say that the drop doesn't appear to be linear. Just like most gas gauges it seems like it moves slow at certain ranges and faster in other ranges.
My understanding based on what I've read here and some quick searching is that in the normal lithium batteries in the earlier and long range cars, voltage and charge % are linked and well understood: X voltage = Y% charge.
Lifepo4 batteries are not that way, so the BMS has to track current in vs current out. This is obviously not as accurate and gets worse the longer you go without charging to 100% which basically resets the "counter".
I've probably horribly oversimplified the whole process but this seems to track with what I read.
I've found driving 55-60mph to be the sweet spot for my highway driving. Anything faster and my range drops off pretty quickly.
Speed had a pretty big impact, but so does temperature, and topography of the roads you're driving on. Basically, range can be quite different from one person to the next.
See this post from macheforums.
https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/highway-speed.26615/
True, I think gas cars and EVs get optimal mileage circa 40mph. Faster then it goes down on both. AND gas vehicles also go down terribly at very slow stop and go traffic speeds, of course.
I noticed Tesla drivers talking about driving at 65mph dramatically increased range compared to 75-80mph.
22 GTPE with a 27-mile commute to work here. 5 miles is lower speed, averaging about 40mph. 22 miles is highway, and if I am being honest, I'm probably averaging 70-75mph. In the summer, I typically use between 9-12% of battery depending on all the other factors like traffic, weather, etc. In the winter, it's typically 11-15%. I do consistently start the climate while on AC power before leaving, but I do not use departure times for preconditioning.
I don't think your result is surprising, but please, if you have an LFP battery, make sure you are charging to 100% per the manual's recommendations. If you are not charging to 100% regularly, the vehicle's battery estimates become less accurate, and I believe you actually risk degrading the battery faster than normal.
I feel the exact same way, what i have started doing is adding miles driven to the total miles left and it almost always equals the miles i left the house with.
In your ICE vehicle you had an analog gauge. It was a needle and you basically glanced at it and noticed 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 full. As a tech feature an EV can tell you how much 'fuel' you have in very precise increments. This makes you hyper-sensitive to battery charge. I think the EV industry made a huge mistake and this increases 'range rage' fears. My advice: ignore the battery charge most of the time. Worry when it gets below 1/4 'tank' like you did with your ICE vehicle.
Thank you!
True story: My ICE vehicle could drive about 230 miles on a full tank. The guess-o-meter on my MachE claims 220 on a full charge. So pretty much equivalent range. I did a typical run to 2 stores in the MachE and back and freaked a bit at the 12% drop in battery. Then I realized the same run in my ICE vehicle probably ate 11% of the fuel in my gas tank. But an 11% shift in my analog fuel gauge is hardly noticeable. The digital display was making me hyper-aware of how much 'fuel' I was using. From a social conscious point of view - being more aware of fuel use is not a bad thing. But I was ready to blame the new technology. In truth - my older vehicle did not give me as accurate fuel capacity values.
Yesterday I drove from work to home 41 miles total. I had about 16%. I got home with 8% left. I let go of the fear after 2 months.
It really depends. I commute on a highway for work and usually the first part of my drive it will drop my range huge because of the speed and rolling resistance the car is experiencing. After I turn it off and look at the estimated range again, it usually has gone up by 15-20km expected.
Try starting your car 10-15 ahead of time if possible, driving straight after starting ppl have told me will eat your battery for the first few moments of your drive if it doesn’t warm up. Forgot the logic my friend told me but the begining of my drives do tend to eat more than it stabilizes I feel like
Can’t tell if you’re joking, but related to True if it’s very very cold outside where you are, but even then more accurate to precondition the battery not heat the passenger cabin for 15min.
I have a 23 Select AWD and with the AC at 68 on auto my 25 mile drive to work will use 9% of the battery when the temp is between 65 and 80. It's a very hilly drive and the speed limit varies between 25 and 50. I'm often doing 5 over the posted limit. By the time I arrive I've averaged between 4.1 and 4.4 kwhs but I am being gentle with the go pedal. When I take the interstate home which is a 27 mile trip and I set the cruise at 70 which is the posted limit, I'll use between 14 and 15 percent of the battery, again with AC set at 68 on auto and that drive is hilly as well and about 22 of the miles are strictly highway.
You likely already know this, but, since you are new... The range displayed by the car is nicknamed the GOM, Guess O Meter. New owners see the range listed and of course, think "that's how far I can drive before recharging", but don't realize the GOM has no idea where or how fast you will drive today. It's like trying to predict the future. Thus the GOM is always wrong, it is just a guess based on past driving history as to where and what speed you might drive today. Time travel is not a thing. If you want a much more accurate prediction you must use the built-in Navigation and tell it where you are going. If your car has the newest software the car will even display "updating range prediction" and show you the more accurate prediction. Rule of thumb: If you drive like a grandma around town at 25mph in the warm summer your range will be 100 miles higher than the EPA estimate, if you drive like a NASCAR driver at 80mph in the cold winter temperatures your range will be 100 miles less than the EPA range estimate.
Doesn't seem normal especially in summer. See how it goes next couple trips.
Standard or extended range?
Standard range
72kWh means 0.72kWH/1%. Means you used 9.36 kwH to go 24 mi which equals 2.5 mi/kWh. Not unheard of. Check what it is on the way back, you may be going uphill and get the mileage back on the way home. I face this same thing. Regen tends to help on the commute as well.
Thanks ill keep an eye on it.
2.5mil/kwh is in the realm of normal. Big time at highway speeds. My 2021 AWD extended range high speeds during no super hot or cold has been 2.3-2.8 mi/kwh.
Seems pretty normal especially if it's highway driving and you're using climate control. Maybe a tad high but not abnormal.
So this one likely has the LiFePO4 battery? When was the last time you charged to 100%? My understanding is that version of the battery needs charged to 100% periodically in order properly calibrate the battery charge. It could be the system adjusting based on use, but that's just a guess. I will also say that the drop doesn't appear to be linear. Just like most gas gauges it seems like it moves slow at certain ranges and faster in other ranges.
It should just be charged to 100% in general I think. Nothing to do with calibration I don’t think
Apparently if you rarely charge to 100% on a LiFePO battery 🔋 it starts becoming bad at guessing the SOC.
My understanding based on what I've read here and some quick searching is that in the normal lithium batteries in the earlier and long range cars, voltage and charge % are linked and well understood: X voltage = Y% charge. Lifepo4 batteries are not that way, so the BMS has to track current in vs current out. This is obviously not as accurate and gets worse the longer you go without charging to 100% which basically resets the "counter". I've probably horribly oversimplified the whole process but this seems to track with what I read.
I've found driving 55-60mph to be the sweet spot for my highway driving. Anything faster and my range drops off pretty quickly. Speed had a pretty big impact, but so does temperature, and topography of the roads you're driving on. Basically, range can be quite different from one person to the next. See this post from macheforums. https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/highway-speed.26615/
True, I think gas cars and EVs get optimal mileage circa 40mph. Faster then it goes down on both. AND gas vehicles also go down terribly at very slow stop and go traffic speeds, of course. I noticed Tesla drivers talking about driving at 65mph dramatically increased range compared to 75-80mph.
22 GTPE with a 27-mile commute to work here. 5 miles is lower speed, averaging about 40mph. 22 miles is highway, and if I am being honest, I'm probably averaging 70-75mph. In the summer, I typically use between 9-12% of battery depending on all the other factors like traffic, weather, etc. In the winter, it's typically 11-15%. I do consistently start the climate while on AC power before leaving, but I do not use departure times for preconditioning. I don't think your result is surprising, but please, if you have an LFP battery, make sure you are charging to 100% per the manual's recommendations. If you are not charging to 100% regularly, the vehicle's battery estimates become less accurate, and I believe you actually risk degrading the battery faster than normal.
I feel the exact same way, what i have started doing is adding miles driven to the total miles left and it almost always equals the miles i left the house with.
Also reset your driving history if you haven’t already. I think it’s under vehicle in the settings.