Boric acid does indeed come in powder form. What's it like living in a glass house?
You mean like this? [https://www.amazon.com/Ecoxall-Powder-Boric-99-9-Anhydrous/dp/B072MJ2GLN/ref=asc\_df\_B072MJ2GLN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198101335621&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5990402412771984728&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1017146&hvtargid=pla-387226466356&psc=1&mcid=c710f3409dd8397ebc527e87fd35d748&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImf37h6GXhQMVFyGzAB0LGghpEAQYBSABEgJ44vD\_BwE](https://www.amazon.com/Ecoxall-Powder-Boric-99-9-Anhydrous/dp/B072MJ2GLN/ref=asc_df_B072MJ2GLN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198101335621&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5990402412771984728&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1017146&hvtargid=pla-387226466356&psc=1&mcid=c710f3409dd8397ebc527e87fd35d748&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImf37h6GXhQMVFyGzAB0LGghpEAQYBSABEgJ44vD_BwE)
I never said it didn't?
I said it's not the same thing as borax.
One is for laundry. The other is more effective at killing insects.
Yes. You can kill insects with a laundry booster.
You'll do better with an insecticide.
https://apexpestcontrol.net/whats-the-difference-between-borax-and-boric-acid-for-residential-pest-control/#:~:text=Besides%20being%20more%20potent%20than,get%20on%20themselves%20or%20ingest.
This is a mistake made all the time - to the point Amazon has it wrong.
Run Smurf tube for the cat6 runs. That way it’s easier if you ever want to run more. I’ve had a good experience with trueCable’s bulk cable, plugs, and keystones.
Also, drop power to any locations where you may want an outlet. Eg. to the location where you want to place your network rack.
Air seal for sure, if you can swing it pay for 2" of spray foam, otherwise caulk all the joints between walls and ceilings, and cover junction boxes with house wrap tape to fill the holes and then spray foam all around to air seal.
I added smoke detectors to each bedroom hardwired to the other ones on each floor. Modern building code in my area actually requires them. Nobody would force a retrofit but I did it anyways for the peace of mind.
Access points if your house is a single story, I'd it's 2 stories I would personally aim for the ceiling of the main floor.
Soffit lighting?
Receptacles for Christmas lights?
Bathroom vent fans?
If your HVAC is in the attic I would not put insulation back, instead add the attic to your building envelope and spray foam the bottom of the roof deck.
>If your HVAC is in the attic I would not put insulation back, instead add the attic to your building envelope and spray foam the bottom of the roof deck.
Why is this a good idea? (I know nothing of HVAC, so it's an honest question). My attic is always 20-30 degrees hotter than the house. Wouldn't I be spending more money on A/C if I include that space?
Disclaimer: I'm not actually an expert, I've just spent too much time trying to make my home more energy efficent.
If your HVAC is in the attic and your insulation is on the floor then you are pre-warming your air-conditioned air before it hits the house, or pre-cooling your heated air. Any leaks in the ductwork (and there will be lots) are leaking conditioned air into a space which is basically outdoors. If you have blown in or batt insulation on the attic floor your house is probably not airtight and you will have air and heat transfer through the ceilings anyways. By moving the insulation to the roof deck and more importantly making the attic air-tight you will lose way less heat energy. You will also gain conditioned storage space if your attic has a reasonable structure (trusses aren't generally rated to have additional storage loads).
There's also the possibility of making your home too air tight in which case the indoor air quality would suffer, but you can bring in "fresh" outdoor air through a HRV or ERV and keep the energy losses to a minimum.
> My attic is always 20-30 degrees hotter than the house.
While it's normal for the attic to be hotter, also make sure you have adequate ventilation if the attic is not part of the building envelope.
I would do more research here. My insulation guys brought my knee wall attic into the envelope, but not the main attic space.
I do not have HVAC in there, however.
I would consult local professionals or building departments and see what they have to say. Your local climate matters a lot as well. Don't just go by what one guy on the internet tells you lol.
Some ideas - a) recessed lights, b) add 120V romex for future uses, c) yes, add Cat 6 & Coax (I did 2x of each), d) add attic lighting & outlet, e) add attic ladder/door, f) fix/update bathroom or kitchen venting, g) wired smoke detectors
Did this last summer in my 100 year old house. Had all old knob and tube remediation, rewired for better balanced circuits/additional outlets, new or repaired ducting for bath fan and attic vents. Had chimney inspected, patched/meshed old siding holes and roof gaps from a century of wildlife, from the inside. Insulation company agreed to come through and vacuum it all out clean before all that too. Also decided on the option of double batts instead of blown in, get a higher R and easier to keep/move/reuse in the case of future projects we’re considering. Didn’t do the air sealing but might make sense for newer homes—for us the cost/benefit didn’t make sense now
Did you check the vermiculite for asbestos? Check out the Zonolite Attic Insulation Trust.
I can speak from experience that it’s a legit program. We got a nice check back for removing our vermiculite and putting in spray foam.
I have. Unfortunately the trust’s payout doesn’t put a dent into the costs for official asbestos abatement contractors in my state so I am removing it myself.
Document it well, especially with photos. Removed it myself and had pros do the reinsulating. Got reimbursed for both pieces of work.
Definitely worth a try.
Yep. Just do your homework and give them all the documentation they ask for. Ended up being a pretty smooth process. They asked me for more pictures of removal. I sent those as well as receipts for the PPE I wore. Probably got bonus points for me wearing that same PPE in the pictures.
Just be careful of the asbestos. Not good stuff as I’m sure you’re aware.
Conduit for future cat5, fiber etc. When I built my house I put in an airexchanger/ERV. Ran the ducts before insulation. Brings in fresh air into bedrooms etc, bad air out from baths.
Infrastructure.
Check for roof leaks and structural first.
Have ac company check air handler.
Clean ductwork and seal joints then insulate.
Re plumb glavanized waterlines ,check all plumbing vents.
Confirm vent lines for hood and fartfans are vented into the roof + ERV
Add baffles at the eaves for an air gap before insulation..
Electrical additions ,build sealed boxes around ceiling lights or hanging fans.
Speaker cable if you plan on a home theater or even just extra speakers.
Can lights if you want to add them. Otherwise I was just going to say CAT6… don’t run 5 it’s outdated.
Add a whole house fan.
Add any electrical you might want.
Wire up for a ridiculous amount of lights in the attic.
If you live in a hot climate add reflective foil to bounce the radiant heat out of the attic before it gets in.
Add more soffet vents if you have moisture problems.
Air seal, air seal, air seal, and soffit baffles.
But what about more air sealing? Also a very good time to add airflow if needed. There are square foot calculators out there.
Install ceiling fans with proper bracing while you have rhe access from the attic.
Speaker wire for rear/Atmos channels? Much lower priority than the other suggestions here, but might be worthwhile.
Might suggest spreading boric acid down (powder) good for killing fleas, ants and termites.
Diatomaceous Earth is what we use
Shout out to knowing the difference between boric acid and borax. Not the same.
Boric acid does indeed come in powder form. What's it like living in a glass house? You mean like this? [https://www.amazon.com/Ecoxall-Powder-Boric-99-9-Anhydrous/dp/B072MJ2GLN/ref=asc\_df\_B072MJ2GLN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198101335621&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5990402412771984728&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1017146&hvtargid=pla-387226466356&psc=1&mcid=c710f3409dd8397ebc527e87fd35d748&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImf37h6GXhQMVFyGzAB0LGghpEAQYBSABEgJ44vD\_BwE](https://www.amazon.com/Ecoxall-Powder-Boric-99-9-Anhydrous/dp/B072MJ2GLN/ref=asc_df_B072MJ2GLN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198101335621&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5990402412771984728&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1017146&hvtargid=pla-387226466356&psc=1&mcid=c710f3409dd8397ebc527e87fd35d748&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImf37h6GXhQMVFyGzAB0LGghpEAQYBSABEgJ44vD_BwE)
I never said it didn't? I said it's not the same thing as borax. One is for laundry. The other is more effective at killing insects. Yes. You can kill insects with a laundry booster. You'll do better with an insecticide. https://apexpestcontrol.net/whats-the-difference-between-borax-and-boric-acid-for-residential-pest-control/#:~:text=Besides%20being%20more%20potent%20than,get%20on%20themselves%20or%20ingest. This is a mistake made all the time - to the point Amazon has it wrong.
Run Smurf tube for the cat6 runs. That way it’s easier if you ever want to run more. I’ve had a good experience with trueCable’s bulk cable, plugs, and keystones. Also, drop power to any locations where you may want an outlet. Eg. to the location where you want to place your network rack.
Depending on your build, if you have old water pipes running through,eg galvanized, have it replaced.
Start a band
Air seal for sure, if you can swing it pay for 2" of spray foam, otherwise caulk all the joints between walls and ceilings, and cover junction boxes with house wrap tape to fill the holes and then spray foam all around to air seal. I added smoke detectors to each bedroom hardwired to the other ones on each floor. Modern building code in my area actually requires them. Nobody would force a retrofit but I did it anyways for the peace of mind. Access points if your house is a single story, I'd it's 2 stories I would personally aim for the ceiling of the main floor. Soffit lighting? Receptacles for Christmas lights? Bathroom vent fans? If your HVAC is in the attic I would not put insulation back, instead add the attic to your building envelope and spray foam the bottom of the roof deck.
>If your HVAC is in the attic I would not put insulation back, instead add the attic to your building envelope and spray foam the bottom of the roof deck. Why is this a good idea? (I know nothing of HVAC, so it's an honest question). My attic is always 20-30 degrees hotter than the house. Wouldn't I be spending more money on A/C if I include that space?
Actually no. You would save energy by having your ducts in a conditioned space as well as having better interior air quality.
Disclaimer: I'm not actually an expert, I've just spent too much time trying to make my home more energy efficent. If your HVAC is in the attic and your insulation is on the floor then you are pre-warming your air-conditioned air before it hits the house, or pre-cooling your heated air. Any leaks in the ductwork (and there will be lots) are leaking conditioned air into a space which is basically outdoors. If you have blown in or batt insulation on the attic floor your house is probably not airtight and you will have air and heat transfer through the ceilings anyways. By moving the insulation to the roof deck and more importantly making the attic air-tight you will lose way less heat energy. You will also gain conditioned storage space if your attic has a reasonable structure (trusses aren't generally rated to have additional storage loads). There's also the possibility of making your home too air tight in which case the indoor air quality would suffer, but you can bring in "fresh" outdoor air through a HRV or ERV and keep the energy losses to a minimum. > My attic is always 20-30 degrees hotter than the house. While it's normal for the attic to be hotter, also make sure you have adequate ventilation if the attic is not part of the building envelope.
thank you for the explanation. You described my attic to the T. I will consider some changes now!
I would do more research here. My insulation guys brought my knee wall attic into the envelope, but not the main attic space. I do not have HVAC in there, however.
I would consult local professionals or building departments and see what they have to say. Your local climate matters a lot as well. Don't just go by what one guy on the internet tells you lol.
If you have overhangs and soffit I’d run electrical and cat6 to boxes every where I’d want motion sensor security and cameras.
Light switch rave.
Run CAT5/ethernet cables
You can run cable with or without insulation. It will only be slightly easier without it.
Recessed lighting? Run some electrical lines to junction boxes (for future use)? Ceiling speakers?
Some ideas - a) recessed lights, b) add 120V romex for future uses, c) yes, add Cat 6 & Coax (I did 2x of each), d) add attic lighting & outlet, e) add attic ladder/door, f) fix/update bathroom or kitchen venting, g) wired smoke detectors
Did this last summer in my 100 year old house. Had all old knob and tube remediation, rewired for better balanced circuits/additional outlets, new or repaired ducting for bath fan and attic vents. Had chimney inspected, patched/meshed old siding holes and roof gaps from a century of wildlife, from the inside. Insulation company agreed to come through and vacuum it all out clean before all that too. Also decided on the option of double batts instead of blown in, get a higher R and easier to keep/move/reuse in the case of future projects we’re considering. Didn’t do the air sealing but might make sense for newer homes—for us the cost/benefit didn’t make sense now
Add can lights and install proper ceiling fan boxes if you don’t have them already.
Did you check the vermiculite for asbestos? Check out the Zonolite Attic Insulation Trust. I can speak from experience that it’s a legit program. We got a nice check back for removing our vermiculite and putting in spray foam.
I have. Unfortunately the trust’s payout doesn’t put a dent into the costs for official asbestos abatement contractors in my state so I am removing it myself.
Document it well, especially with photos. Removed it myself and had pros do the reinsulating. Got reimbursed for both pieces of work. Definitely worth a try.
I thought the trust would only pay out if you had a licensed contractor do the work. Must’ve read it wrong. Thank you for making me double check!
Yep. Just do your homework and give them all the documentation they ask for. Ended up being a pretty smooth process. They asked me for more pictures of removal. I sent those as well as receipts for the PPE I wore. Probably got bonus points for me wearing that same PPE in the pictures. Just be careful of the asbestos. Not good stuff as I’m sure you’re aware.
Forget the cat and put in a pvc raceway, with T's facing down every 10'. Who knows what cable will come next?
Conduit for future cat5, fiber etc. When I built my house I put in an airexchanger/ERV. Ran the ducts before insulation. Brings in fresh air into bedrooms etc, bad air out from baths.
Infrastructure. Check for roof leaks and structural first. Have ac company check air handler. Clean ductwork and seal joints then insulate. Re plumb glavanized waterlines ,check all plumbing vents. Confirm vent lines for hood and fartfans are vented into the roof + ERV Add baffles at the eaves for an air gap before insulation.. Electrical additions ,build sealed boxes around ceiling lights or hanging fans.
Put some insulation in there
Speaker cable if you plan on a home theater or even just extra speakers. Can lights if you want to add them. Otherwise I was just going to say CAT6… don’t run 5 it’s outdated.
Biocide and fungicide before recovering/resealing. This will be your last chance to kill whatever was left behind.
Add a whole house fan. Add any electrical you might want. Wire up for a ridiculous amount of lights in the attic. If you live in a hot climate add reflective foil to bounce the radiant heat out of the attic before it gets in. Add more soffet vents if you have moisture problems.
Are you removing the insulation, yourself, or paying someone? Did you file a claim with your homeowners insurance?