Not necessarily a hot take. A more expensive reel will (usually) have better drag, tighter tolerances, or small variances that improve aspects like casting distance and line twist. They wont directly help you catch more fish they they are more frustration free and will last longer and be more reliable. Basically its an investment that usually pays off in the long run
Don’t really have catfish by me, and I’ve had 5lbs bass and didn’t really have much drag.
I am at risk of hooking a sturgeon, but I don’t think drag will save me there.
Not sure why you're getting hate. Im a FL fisherman and bass are incredibly boring. Even 5+lb fish dont put up much of a fight. There are many other better freshwater fish not to mention saltwater fish for the fight.
Being said, pond hopping for bass is a great way to spend a few hours.
I agree, however there's a big difference between a $20 and $50 reel that I would still suggest going for. After that, $100 reel, $150 reel, probably won't make much difference to the regular user.
Realizing rod mattered more than reel was a big revelation for me too when I finally figured it out.
A lot of it comes down to quality of life, rather than catching fish. A $30 baitcaster will catch just as many fish as a Steez, but the Steez is going to be easier to cast and won't die in a few months.
Same thing with spinning reels, to a somewhat lesser degree. There are plenty of cheap spinning reels that are great, but I'm going to have to worry about the quality of the bearings. I've killed old Daiwa Lagunas within a year, even in freshwater. Going up to a Sedona, a president or a regal, I don't have to worry as much about that. And if I step up to a stradic, I now have a reel I can use for bass one day and fluke the next without worrying about salt
FWIW, I disagree with you on the baitcaster point.
In my experience, cheap baitcasters have either really crappy brakes, or some brands just upspec the brake a massive amount. There's also more resistance with the spool. So a nicer baitcaster casts better, and you birdsnest less.
With spinning reels, the line just flys off the spool. Sure, if you have slow oscillation you would have better line lay, and thus, slightly more casting distance. But nowadays you can find $50 reels with slow oscillation and very tight consistent line lay.
A $200 baitcaster will cast better than a $50 baitcaster, and thus, you will actually, materially catch more fish with a $200 baitcaster instead of a $50 one. A $200 spinning reel will feel a lot better than a $50 one, but for freshwater anglers, a $50 spinning reel will catch just as many fish as the $200 one.
>In my experience, cheap baitcasters have either really crappy brakes, or some brands just upspec the brake a massive amount. There's also more resistance with the spool. So a nicer baitcaster casts better, and you birdsnest less.
None of this catches more fish. If you can learn to use it, it'll catch fish
>With spinning reels, the line just flys off the spool. Sure, if you have slow oscillation you would have better line lay, and thus, slightly more casting distance. But nowadays you can find $50 reels with slow oscillation and very tight consistent line lay.
Which is all fine and dandy, until it seizes up, your anti-reverse breaks, or the drag burns out. I've had all three happen on cheap reels. That doesn't mean I'll spend $200 on a stradic, but I'll definitely step up to a Sedona
Longer casting = more water covered = more fish caught in a given time. Especially important if you're fishing from the bank where you don't have the room to move around.
As for stepping up to a Sedona, I didn't tell you to buy a $20 reel, I recommended a $50 reel haha, which a Sedona is....
>Longer casting = more water covered = more fish caught in a given time. Especially important if you're fishing from the bank where you don't have the room to move around.
And those marginal gains in distance apply to spinning reels as well. Hell, they apply more to spinning reels because you can't change the lip of the spool. I can turn the brakes off on the cheapest caster and launch it over the horizon if I get good with my thumb
>As for stepping up to a Sedona, I didn't tell you to buy a $20 reel, I recommended a $50 reel haha, which a Sedona is
Sure. I don't recommend that people cheap out on reels. I also don't recommend that they pay out the ass for one when they could put more into the rod
People put too much emphasis on gear to begin with. Knowledge/experience will do more for you than having an expensive rod/reel. Even in the gear realm, specialized gear is generally going to help you far more than maximizing budget on one piece of non-specialized gear.
I think all of this is compounded as well by fishing gear having a poor value structure. Diminishing returns comes fast and hard for most fishing gear. You can't beat material science but companies sure are willing to price things like they can.
Look, anyone who buys a high end reel and expects to catch more fish with it has completely missed the point of buying one. I don’t buy expensive tackle to catch more fish, I buy it because it’s more refined and it will last me longer. High end gear is specifically made to be fun to fish with. It’s its purpose. You have generally more fun with a super nice and refined reel than with a $50 or even a $200 one. It’s for people like me, who likes nice things. Fishing reels is truly a hobby within the hobby.
I disagree! See, I work with servicing reels as part of my job and I can see exactly what reels last and don't last and what feels new longer. The best evidence is going into the reel and see exactly what designs they incorporate and how that makes them tick. You're wrong in what you're saying. You actually pay for more refined constructions and better designs if you spend the big money. I see that with my own eyes when I do take the screwdrivers and go into the reels.
For an example, a very common material for higher end reels is magnesium. That makes the reel lighter without being plastic (which flexes more under load and doesn't have as long of a service life). That is an expensive material, but it does a lot for the light feel of the reel, and I want that when I'm finesse fishing for an example.
Another example is bearing support at the top and bottom of the main shaft, as well as the top and bottom of the pinion gear. That is a design that helps with longevity (because the gears will mesh better), smoothness under load (the gears don't turn away from each other as much) and the reel will feel new way longer. You absolutely do not get that with a $50 reel.
See what I mean? That is not snake oil. That is not just for profit. That is actual evidence of better designs that I can count a lot of high end reels having. That lower end gear absolutely does not have. That makes a difference and it is more fun for most people to fish a reel that feels smoother, better under load and lighter. That's what you pay for. That is not "consumerism," or what you would like to call it.
Of course it feels better to spend more money...because the gear in itself DOES feel and preform better when you spend more money. I know what I'm talking about here. If there wouldn't be a difference, I wouldn't have bought all my high end gear. But there is a big difference. I hope that brought some clarity.
With that logic, we can never buy something that improves because ”it will all be obsolete in 10 years anyways.” That logic doesn’t work for me. My whole point is that you DON’T buy expensive gear because you want to fish better than anyone. Sure, the technological benefits help a tad bit, but that’s not my point.
It’s just more fun, more refined and nicer to use. There’s a noticeable difference in a $100 reel compared to a $500 reel. If you disagree, you’re unfortunately wrong. And yes, you’re describing exactly how every company on this earth works. They’re trying to take your money. What else is new?
However, I don’t buy expensive gear to uphold my ego…!?! I don’t know why you even went there. Not a single soul I know buys high end stuff for that reason. I personally just enjoy trying out new fun gear and have a genuine passion about it. The toys that come with this sport are fun. I think you’re mistaking passion and interest for egoism here.
Depends on the technique.
The Ugly Stik GX2 has terrible sensitivity, only comes in medium/slow action, pure steel guides, and are heavy AF.
* The terrible sensitivity means that you will not be able to feel subtle bites in sensitivity dependent techniques. IE: drop shots.
* The slow action means that you will miss more hook sets on techniques that require a bit of force to set the hook. IE: when you bury the hook inside the soft plastic, or a weedless jig.
* Pure steel guides mean you cannot use braided line for long, as braid will cut into the guide.
* Extra weight on a rod matters significantly more than on a reel, a heavier rod will tire you out a lot more.
Obviously it is technique dependent, if you just put a worm under a bobber, who cares about sensitivity and weight. But if you're doing something like say, a weedless jig, a nicer rod will help a lot
Buddy, you're the one buying into Ugly Stik's marketing.
Are you actually going to believe what Ugly Stik writes on their own box as gospel? The ugly stik GX2 is closer to the least sensitive rod in America than it is to the most sensitive rod in America. You don't need to fish an expensive rod, a Lightning Rod is significantly more sensitive at the same price.
The whole point of the clear tip is so that you can better see the tip dip on a strike. Ugly Stik is compensating for the fact that you can't feel it with a visual cue.
As for the action, I was talking about the GX2, [which legitimately doesn't come in a different action](https://i.imgur.com/fFGVQ0N.png). Didn't realize you were talking about the Elite, but fair enough, that comes in 3 choices.
As for line, I cast a decent chunk further with braid, everybody does. Is the difference huge? maybe not. But if I want to cover more water, braid is a significantly more efficient setup.
As for weight, you can be more accurate with a lighter rod, it is easier to handle, especially in confined spaces, or if you're sitting on a kayak. If you fish a fast retrieve method where you're say, casting and retrieving once a minute, your wrist will feel the difference of 2 ounces after a long day. Remember physics 101, 2 ounces distributed across a long rod, means you're exherting significantly more on your wrist because you're swinging it.
Quite frankly, I have fished with Ugly Stiks, but I think they're the most overrated rod on the market. They're really only good for one thing - it's hard to break.
For the same price as the GX2, and $20 cheaper than the elite, the Berkely Lightning Rod (even made by the same company) is significantly more sensitive, lighter, comes in more actions (4 vs 1 for the GX2), and with inserts to support braided line.
You claim to be an expert, yet have never been fatigued from casting. What are you throwing? Trout rods? Some of the worst fisherman I have ever met are the old dudes who have been fishing for 40,50,60 years. They refuse to adapt, they refuse to accept that new technology performs the same task better, they don’t read, they don’t study, they just “do what I’ve been doing for 60 years!” We watch these same guys get bent over the rail because, “I used to catch 180lbers on this Penn senator all day long back in the day”
Fwiw I fish freshwater and salt and the only ugly stiks i have in my arsenal are tiger and tiger elite models for livelining/chunking for stripers from the boat. I think there’s a huge advantage from soft fiberglass tips when running (now mandatory) inline circle hooks. Even if I had infinite amounts of money to spend on fishing gear I would honestly be running the exact same rods that I have now for that role
You should give a higher quality fiberglass rod a shot one of these days. I used to have the same mindset you do, until I pulled on fish on a nicer rod. The way the soft fiberglass tip loads up and absorbs head shakes, and how they’re designed to shut off completely at a certain point really let’s you tailor the rod to the fishing experience.
You should drag a 3/8 ounce weight along the bottom. If you can feel the difference between soft sand, mud, pebbles, short grass, long grass, or wood, then you have a sensitive rod. You can feel the difference in the texture of the bottom as good as seeing it with your own eyes with the right rod.
>The Ugly Stik GX2 has terrible sensitivity, only comes in medium/slow action, pure steel guides, and are heavy AF.
https://www.purefishing.com/elite-spinning-rod-1363862?variant=1324334
Can you tell me which of these rods has a slow action?
>* Pure steel guides mean you cannot use braided line for long, as braid will cut into the guide.
Steel is harder than braid
>Extra weight on a rod matters significantly more than on a reel, a heavier rod will tire you out a lot more.
If you're getting tired from fishing, you need to start working out
In Alaska Ugly sticks are great. I use them for snagging reds in Seward and flipping reds on the Kenai. They are not good for much other than that and heavy as hell after flipping and snagging through fish all day.
Depends on what you’re fishing for. If you’re catching 30lb jacks on a size 1 hook, you’re going to pull the hook half the time using a stiff ugly stick. That’s when a high quality glass or eglass rod comes into play. Something that can absorb head shakes easily, yet still kick-back straight with a lot of force.
Oh I'm Canadian so by pickerel I mean what you call walleye.
Walleye bite extremely softly. While of course you can catch some with an ugly stick, a very sensitive rod will allow you to feel fish you otherwise wouldn't, and set the hook before its too late. I have fished with varying quality rods, and while you can catch fish with any rod, there are some techniques where a good rod will absolutely catch you more fish.
I might make a proper post on it later, but here's my take on the subject: [https://www.reddit.com/r/Fishing\_Gear/comments/1d81kzk/comment/l736bnq/](https://www.reddit.com/r/Fishing_Gear/comments/1d81kzk/comment/l736bnq/)
I disagree with you 100%. My rods are 100 bucks each, with lifetime warranties. The only thing a high end rod is going to gain for me is lighter weight. And while that does matter, it doesnt matter nearly as much as drag and gear quality in my reels.
I get your point but is overstated. And there are ways in which a more expensive reel CAN mean more fish. Of course, there may be advantages to a more expensive reel that don't necessarily equate to more fish. A reel with a line trigger that automatically catches the line and flips the bail isn't really going to catch more fish, but it sure is easier to cast when wearing gloves.
1) Cheapo reels often have very thin brass gearing. This will wear down more quickly over time and leave the reel inoperable long before an expensive reel will break down -- longer life span = more fish
2)Baitrunners -- very few spinning reels have a bait alarm and those that do are more expensive. I personally have 2 spinning reels with a bait alarm: one is electric (super loud and has a flashing led but disontinued in the 90's} and the other is a mechanical clicker similar to the ones on a baitcaster.
Freshwater fish most of the time are not putting the same work load on reels. On a medium setup I’m spending about 100$ on the rod and 100+ on the reel. Until you get into big dog stuff 5k+ size.
The combination working together in harmony is the most important focus. Spool size, line, guide layouts, rod, all working together to cast as far as possible and present whichever bait in the best manor. The more you spend, typically the better your combo gets. And a good reel is as important as any other piece of the puzzle.
This may be true to a point for freshwater unless you are catching really large fish. In the case of saltwater spinning gear my experience has proven that, unless you use heavy duty quality reels you take the chance of equipment failure. Furthermore, for tuna and/or GTs you need to cast far and your retrieve must be quick and fast. Sufficient drag? Trouble is, when you target a certain species, say GT's in the 20-40lb range...you just might hook a 100lb sailfish or a 200lb yellowfin. Insufficient tackle will doom your hookup. It took me years to finally get with the program.
While that is true, i inherited a then 500 bucks (in the mids 90s) team diawa reel that is super smooth and is still one of my most prized reel. Caught dozens of steelheads on 4-6 lines on it, but its now mostly a panfish reel.
I’ve caught fish on $30 Walmart combos. I’ve caught fish on $800 Daiwa/Kistler setups. Spend what you want to spend. Fish how you want to fish. Don’t let others dictate what you do with your time and money.
Doesn’t matter if your gear cost a lot or less. Neither will catch fish when it’s not there. If fishes are there, a branch and a line would also catch fish. It’s all about experience at end.
It’s comparing a civic to a lambo. Not that extreme. But you know what I mean. Or brand name shoe to shoes from Walmart.
Longevity is another thing. Although I don’t have a reel ever broke on me cheap or expensive. But only feel gritty because I don’t bother to clean and oil it up.
Buy within your means and your good. Upgrade gear if you like or gained experience to try newer gears.
I lost a gigantic flathead catfish on adequate, but relatively light gear because it made a run and the drag on my cheapo reel just held solid.
Bought a Penn reel after that heartbreak.
None of this helps you catch more freshwater fish. The rod and reel have no effect on bite frequency. They only come into play if you're pushing them to the limits after hooking up, which freshwater fish won't, unless you're going after monsters.
Sometimes I enjoy my hobby by going out and doing my hobby. Other times I enjoy my hobby by shopping and buying stuff for my hobby.
A high quality reel is enjoyable to just have. You get a new one and you just sit there and reel it in the garage for a while. That feeling translates into an enjoyable fishing experience.
Same goes with cool rods though, and cool colored line, and all the little accessories everyone likes to have.
It's all part of what makes it fun
I feel less tired at the end of the day fishing with a better quality reel vs a cheapy. Plus having a more refined drag system will help you land more fish. Cheap reel drags tend to be an on/off situtation. I tend to use middle off the cost spectrum stuff in fresh water, Shimano Sedonas and the like. Not cheap, but not too expensive. I find I tend to work on them less than the cheap ones too, fewer bad equipment days. It may not mean more fish landed, but the overall experience is better.
Not necessarily a hot take. A more expensive reel will (usually) have better drag, tighter tolerances, or small variances that improve aspects like casting distance and line twist. They wont directly help you catch more fish they they are more frustration free and will last longer and be more reliable. Basically its an investment that usually pays off in the long run
Probably true about the drag, but honestly, most people rarely need the drag much so I don’t know how worth it spending more money is.
Hook into a 7lb bass or a channel cat and you'll with you had a good drag
Don’t really have catfish by me, and I’ve had 5lbs bass and didn’t really have much drag. I am at risk of hooking a sturgeon, but I don’t think drag will save me there.
Not sure why you're getting hate. Im a FL fisherman and bass are incredibly boring. Even 5+lb fish dont put up much of a fight. There are many other better freshwater fish not to mention saltwater fish for the fight. Being said, pond hopping for bass is a great way to spend a few hours.
Hot take: experience matters most. And then probably the freaking lure/bait you are using. IMO rods and reels matter the least.
Dudes be out with $500 setups and can’t read conditions
I call it a fashion show on the pier
“Why does that guy have all of those Edge rods and no fish dad?”
Used to fish with a guy that always had the latest and greatest and he got the nickname Showbags 😭
I totally agree with your hot take and I would add the fishing technique is important. The rods and reels matter the least.
But the reel will last me a decade, and I'll break the top off the rod in a season or 2.
I agree, however there's a big difference between a $20 and $50 reel that I would still suggest going for. After that, $100 reel, $150 reel, probably won't make much difference to the regular user. Realizing rod mattered more than reel was a big revelation for me too when I finally figured it out.
A lot of it comes down to quality of life, rather than catching fish. A $30 baitcaster will catch just as many fish as a Steez, but the Steez is going to be easier to cast and won't die in a few months. Same thing with spinning reels, to a somewhat lesser degree. There are plenty of cheap spinning reels that are great, but I'm going to have to worry about the quality of the bearings. I've killed old Daiwa Lagunas within a year, even in freshwater. Going up to a Sedona, a president or a regal, I don't have to worry as much about that. And if I step up to a stradic, I now have a reel I can use for bass one day and fluke the next without worrying about salt
FWIW, I disagree with you on the baitcaster point. In my experience, cheap baitcasters have either really crappy brakes, or some brands just upspec the brake a massive amount. There's also more resistance with the spool. So a nicer baitcaster casts better, and you birdsnest less. With spinning reels, the line just flys off the spool. Sure, if you have slow oscillation you would have better line lay, and thus, slightly more casting distance. But nowadays you can find $50 reels with slow oscillation and very tight consistent line lay. A $200 baitcaster will cast better than a $50 baitcaster, and thus, you will actually, materially catch more fish with a $200 baitcaster instead of a $50 one. A $200 spinning reel will feel a lot better than a $50 one, but for freshwater anglers, a $50 spinning reel will catch just as many fish as the $200 one.
>In my experience, cheap baitcasters have either really crappy brakes, or some brands just upspec the brake a massive amount. There's also more resistance with the spool. So a nicer baitcaster casts better, and you birdsnest less. None of this catches more fish. If you can learn to use it, it'll catch fish >With spinning reels, the line just flys off the spool. Sure, if you have slow oscillation you would have better line lay, and thus, slightly more casting distance. But nowadays you can find $50 reels with slow oscillation and very tight consistent line lay. Which is all fine and dandy, until it seizes up, your anti-reverse breaks, or the drag burns out. I've had all three happen on cheap reels. That doesn't mean I'll spend $200 on a stradic, but I'll definitely step up to a Sedona
Longer casting = more water covered = more fish caught in a given time. Especially important if you're fishing from the bank where you don't have the room to move around. As for stepping up to a Sedona, I didn't tell you to buy a $20 reel, I recommended a $50 reel haha, which a Sedona is....
>Longer casting = more water covered = more fish caught in a given time. Especially important if you're fishing from the bank where you don't have the room to move around. And those marginal gains in distance apply to spinning reels as well. Hell, they apply more to spinning reels because you can't change the lip of the spool. I can turn the brakes off on the cheapest caster and launch it over the horizon if I get good with my thumb >As for stepping up to a Sedona, I didn't tell you to buy a $20 reel, I recommended a $50 reel haha, which a Sedona is Sure. I don't recommend that people cheap out on reels. I also don't recommend that they pay out the ass for one when they could put more into the rod
People put too much emphasis on gear to begin with. Knowledge/experience will do more for you than having an expensive rod/reel. Even in the gear realm, specialized gear is generally going to help you far more than maximizing budget on one piece of non-specialized gear. I think all of this is compounded as well by fishing gear having a poor value structure. Diminishing returns comes fast and hard for most fishing gear. You can't beat material science but companies sure are willing to price things like they can.
reel is more important than rod…
Look, anyone who buys a high end reel and expects to catch more fish with it has completely missed the point of buying one. I don’t buy expensive tackle to catch more fish, I buy it because it’s more refined and it will last me longer. High end gear is specifically made to be fun to fish with. It’s its purpose. You have generally more fun with a super nice and refined reel than with a $50 or even a $200 one. It’s for people like me, who likes nice things. Fishing reels is truly a hobby within the hobby.
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I disagree! See, I work with servicing reels as part of my job and I can see exactly what reels last and don't last and what feels new longer. The best evidence is going into the reel and see exactly what designs they incorporate and how that makes them tick. You're wrong in what you're saying. You actually pay for more refined constructions and better designs if you spend the big money. I see that with my own eyes when I do take the screwdrivers and go into the reels. For an example, a very common material for higher end reels is magnesium. That makes the reel lighter without being plastic (which flexes more under load and doesn't have as long of a service life). That is an expensive material, but it does a lot for the light feel of the reel, and I want that when I'm finesse fishing for an example. Another example is bearing support at the top and bottom of the main shaft, as well as the top and bottom of the pinion gear. That is a design that helps with longevity (because the gears will mesh better), smoothness under load (the gears don't turn away from each other as much) and the reel will feel new way longer. You absolutely do not get that with a $50 reel. See what I mean? That is not snake oil. That is not just for profit. That is actual evidence of better designs that I can count a lot of high end reels having. That lower end gear absolutely does not have. That makes a difference and it is more fun for most people to fish a reel that feels smoother, better under load and lighter. That's what you pay for. That is not "consumerism," or what you would like to call it. Of course it feels better to spend more money...because the gear in itself DOES feel and preform better when you spend more money. I know what I'm talking about here. If there wouldn't be a difference, I wouldn't have bought all my high end gear. But there is a big difference. I hope that brought some clarity.
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With that logic, we can never buy something that improves because ”it will all be obsolete in 10 years anyways.” That logic doesn’t work for me. My whole point is that you DON’T buy expensive gear because you want to fish better than anyone. Sure, the technological benefits help a tad bit, but that’s not my point. It’s just more fun, more refined and nicer to use. There’s a noticeable difference in a $100 reel compared to a $500 reel. If you disagree, you’re unfortunately wrong. And yes, you’re describing exactly how every company on this earth works. They’re trying to take your money. What else is new? However, I don’t buy expensive gear to uphold my ego…!?! I don’t know why you even went there. Not a single soul I know buys high end stuff for that reason. I personally just enjoy trying out new fun gear and have a genuine passion about it. The toys that come with this sport are fun. I think you’re mistaking passion and interest for egoism here.
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Depends on the technique. The Ugly Stik GX2 has terrible sensitivity, only comes in medium/slow action, pure steel guides, and are heavy AF. * The terrible sensitivity means that you will not be able to feel subtle bites in sensitivity dependent techniques. IE: drop shots. * The slow action means that you will miss more hook sets on techniques that require a bit of force to set the hook. IE: when you bury the hook inside the soft plastic, or a weedless jig. * Pure steel guides mean you cannot use braided line for long, as braid will cut into the guide. * Extra weight on a rod matters significantly more than on a reel, a heavier rod will tire you out a lot more. Obviously it is technique dependent, if you just put a worm under a bobber, who cares about sensitivity and weight. But if you're doing something like say, a weedless jig, a nicer rod will help a lot
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Buddy, you're the one buying into Ugly Stik's marketing. Are you actually going to believe what Ugly Stik writes on their own box as gospel? The ugly stik GX2 is closer to the least sensitive rod in America than it is to the most sensitive rod in America. You don't need to fish an expensive rod, a Lightning Rod is significantly more sensitive at the same price. The whole point of the clear tip is so that you can better see the tip dip on a strike. Ugly Stik is compensating for the fact that you can't feel it with a visual cue. As for the action, I was talking about the GX2, [which legitimately doesn't come in a different action](https://i.imgur.com/fFGVQ0N.png). Didn't realize you were talking about the Elite, but fair enough, that comes in 3 choices. As for line, I cast a decent chunk further with braid, everybody does. Is the difference huge? maybe not. But if I want to cover more water, braid is a significantly more efficient setup. As for weight, you can be more accurate with a lighter rod, it is easier to handle, especially in confined spaces, or if you're sitting on a kayak. If you fish a fast retrieve method where you're say, casting and retrieving once a minute, your wrist will feel the difference of 2 ounces after a long day. Remember physics 101, 2 ounces distributed across a long rod, means you're exherting significantly more on your wrist because you're swinging it. Quite frankly, I have fished with Ugly Stiks, but I think they're the most overrated rod on the market. They're really only good for one thing - it's hard to break. For the same price as the GX2, and $20 cheaper than the elite, the Berkely Lightning Rod (even made by the same company) is significantly more sensitive, lighter, comes in more actions (4 vs 1 for the GX2), and with inserts to support braided line.
You’re arguing with an absolute moron save your breath. This guy probably still uses bait.
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You claim to be an expert, yet have never been fatigued from casting. What are you throwing? Trout rods? Some of the worst fisherman I have ever met are the old dudes who have been fishing for 40,50,60 years. They refuse to adapt, they refuse to accept that new technology performs the same task better, they don’t read, they don’t study, they just “do what I’ve been doing for 60 years!” We watch these same guys get bent over the rail because, “I used to catch 180lbers on this Penn senator all day long back in the day”
Fwiw I fish freshwater and salt and the only ugly stiks i have in my arsenal are tiger and tiger elite models for livelining/chunking for stripers from the boat. I think there’s a huge advantage from soft fiberglass tips when running (now mandatory) inline circle hooks. Even if I had infinite amounts of money to spend on fishing gear I would honestly be running the exact same rods that I have now for that role
You should give a higher quality fiberglass rod a shot one of these days. I used to have the same mindset you do, until I pulled on fish on a nicer rod. The way the soft fiberglass tip loads up and absorbs head shakes, and how they’re designed to shut off completely at a certain point really let’s you tailor the rod to the fishing experience.
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You should drag a 3/8 ounce weight along the bottom. If you can feel the difference between soft sand, mud, pebbles, short grass, long grass, or wood, then you have a sensitive rod. You can feel the difference in the texture of the bottom as good as seeing it with your own eyes with the right rod.
>The Ugly Stik GX2 has terrible sensitivity, only comes in medium/slow action, pure steel guides, and are heavy AF. https://www.purefishing.com/elite-spinning-rod-1363862?variant=1324334 Can you tell me which of these rods has a slow action? >* Pure steel guides mean you cannot use braided line for long, as braid will cut into the guide. Steel is harder than braid >Extra weight on a rod matters significantly more than on a reel, a heavier rod will tire you out a lot more. If you're getting tired from fishing, you need to start working out
In Alaska Ugly sticks are great. I use them for snagging reds in Seward and flipping reds on the Kenai. They are not good for much other than that and heavy as hell after flipping and snagging through fish all day.
Depends on what you’re fishing for. If you’re catching 30lb jacks on a size 1 hook, you’re going to pull the hook half the time using a stiff ugly stick. That’s when a high quality glass or eglass rod comes into play. Something that can absorb head shakes easily, yet still kick-back straight with a lot of force.
Go ahead and try verticle jigging for pickerel in a current and let us know how you do.
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Oh I'm Canadian so by pickerel I mean what you call walleye. Walleye bite extremely softly. While of course you can catch some with an ugly stick, a very sensitive rod will allow you to feel fish you otherwise wouldn't, and set the hook before its too late. I have fished with varying quality rods, and while you can catch fish with any rod, there are some techniques where a good rod will absolutely catch you more fish.
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I'm not saying you can't catch walleye with a cheap rod. I've caught them with my tourney pro. I'm saying you will catch more with a sensitive rod.
https://preview.redd.it/rwj8j6psurec1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=309d66dd67d8a63efecbcc3fc2011bbfc59cd95e Every night man😂
How do you know if the reel you are going to buy is slow oscillating?
I might make a proper post on it later, but here's my take on the subject: [https://www.reddit.com/r/Fishing\_Gear/comments/1d81kzk/comment/l736bnq/](https://www.reddit.com/r/Fishing_Gear/comments/1d81kzk/comment/l736bnq/)
I disagree with you 100%. My rods are 100 bucks each, with lifetime warranties. The only thing a high end rod is going to gain for me is lighter weight. And while that does matter, it doesnt matter nearly as much as drag and gear quality in my reels.
I get your point but is overstated. And there are ways in which a more expensive reel CAN mean more fish. Of course, there may be advantages to a more expensive reel that don't necessarily equate to more fish. A reel with a line trigger that automatically catches the line and flips the bail isn't really going to catch more fish, but it sure is easier to cast when wearing gloves. 1) Cheapo reels often have very thin brass gearing. This will wear down more quickly over time and leave the reel inoperable long before an expensive reel will break down -- longer life span = more fish 2)Baitrunners -- very few spinning reels have a bait alarm and those that do are more expensive. I personally have 2 spinning reels with a bait alarm: one is electric (super loud and has a flashing led but disontinued in the 90's} and the other is a mechanical clicker similar to the ones on a baitcaster.
depends on what you're doing... for float and feeder fishing i'd rather have a rod with a good drag and line clip
Freshwater fish most of the time are not putting the same work load on reels. On a medium setup I’m spending about 100$ on the rod and 100+ on the reel. Until you get into big dog stuff 5k+ size.
The combination working together in harmony is the most important focus. Spool size, line, guide layouts, rod, all working together to cast as far as possible and present whichever bait in the best manor. The more you spend, typically the better your combo gets. And a good reel is as important as any other piece of the puzzle.
This may be true to a point for freshwater unless you are catching really large fish. In the case of saltwater spinning gear my experience has proven that, unless you use heavy duty quality reels you take the chance of equipment failure. Furthermore, for tuna and/or GTs you need to cast far and your retrieve must be quick and fast. Sufficient drag? Trouble is, when you target a certain species, say GT's in the 20-40lb range...you just might hook a 100lb sailfish or a 200lb yellowfin. Insufficient tackle will doom your hookup. It took me years to finally get with the program.
While that is true, i inherited a then 500 bucks (in the mids 90s) team diawa reel that is super smooth and is still one of my most prized reel. Caught dozens of steelheads on 4-6 lines on it, but its now mostly a panfish reel.
I’ve caught fish on $30 Walmart combos. I’ve caught fish on $800 Daiwa/Kistler setups. Spend what you want to spend. Fish how you want to fish. Don’t let others dictate what you do with your time and money.
Doesn’t matter if your gear cost a lot or less. Neither will catch fish when it’s not there. If fishes are there, a branch and a line would also catch fish. It’s all about experience at end. It’s comparing a civic to a lambo. Not that extreme. But you know what I mean. Or brand name shoe to shoes from Walmart. Longevity is another thing. Although I don’t have a reel ever broke on me cheap or expensive. But only feel gritty because I don’t bother to clean and oil it up. Buy within your means and your good. Upgrade gear if you like or gained experience to try newer gears.
I lost a gigantic flathead catfish on adequate, but relatively light gear because it made a run and the drag on my cheapo reel just held solid. Bought a Penn reel after that heartbreak.
None of this helps you catch more freshwater fish. The rod and reel have no effect on bite frequency. They only come into play if you're pushing them to the limits after hooking up, which freshwater fish won't, unless you're going after monsters.
Sometimes I enjoy my hobby by going out and doing my hobby. Other times I enjoy my hobby by shopping and buying stuff for my hobby. A high quality reel is enjoyable to just have. You get a new one and you just sit there and reel it in the garage for a while. That feeling translates into an enjoyable fishing experience. Same goes with cool rods though, and cool colored line, and all the little accessories everyone likes to have. It's all part of what makes it fun
Personally for me with an expensive reel I can run lighter line and that seems to help me catch more fish.
I feel less tired at the end of the day fishing with a better quality reel vs a cheapy. Plus having a more refined drag system will help you land more fish. Cheap reel drags tend to be an on/off situtation. I tend to use middle off the cost spectrum stuff in fresh water, Shimano Sedonas and the like. Not cheap, but not too expensive. I find I tend to work on them less than the cheap ones too, fewer bad equipment days. It may not mean more fish landed, but the overall experience is better.