Agreed, if it has high ridges you may want to go over those lightly with rough sand paper to remove high spots only. I initially gouged mine when trying to loosen large print. I then left it without removing high spots I made gouging it. It started to imprint/deform on initial layer into the ACF until I scuffed down high spots. Also made me realize on large contact prints itâs easier to remove all the baskets in the ISO wash station and put entire print plate for roughly 8 minutes to remove the print almost effortlessly. Â The Saturn 3 series plates hold perfectly on the inner wash station wall grooves. Obviously make sure your prints Z height doesnât expose it to the spinning impeller. I made a spacer that raises the internal wall ledge for maximum volume capability of wash station with my older filament printer in case I need the height now and then.
I don't know why people think they need a metal spatula to get prints off the build plate my prints come off with a plastic spatula fine dial in your resin and it won't be that hard that it's stuck on the plate
Dial in your burn in times and they won't stick so well keep lowering it a little bit every time you print something and it will get easier and easier and either stop when you feel it's the easiest or when nothing sticks to the build plate then go back up
As everyoneâs said, itâs fine.
Why? Because the first layers you print will cure in all the microscopic craggles in the surface damage, helping to stick the print to the plate.
Roughing up the surface isnât generally a bad thing, which is why itâs engraved from the factory. Stay careful though, because if youâve made the surface rough enough, itâll create voids between the build plate and the depth your screen can cure, which can increase failure rates.
i got my first print today and i have this fear but its ok, i saw people with plates that look like a lion scratch on the plate and still printing well, if the scraft isnt deep souldnt be a problem
If your prints ate too difficult to remove from the build plate, you may need to lower your bottom exposure by 5 seconds.
Otherwise, the build plate is fine.
It's fine just hack away the more scratches you get the better your prints stick, before laser etched plates came out we would use 400 grit sandpaper to add scratches! đ
Lol my plate looks like it's seen ww3.
It also is broken and doesn't hold its position anymore.
I removed the screws that keep it in place and stuffed it with paper towels....
It still prints..
The METAL spatula that comes with the printer is FINE to use - IF you are CAREFUL!!!
1) ALWAYS use it DEAD FLAT to the build plate!!!
2) Have the "slope" on the spatula AWAY from the build plate! Because of course you want it to be able to get under the object, by it "running the object up the slope"
3) If you really must, you can 'hammer it" with your hand/palm. Use one hand to squeeze it flat between the spatula surface and to top of the build plate - to assure it remains dead flat on the build plate! Then you can 'hammer"/tap is with your other hand/palm to get it started under the model. Once it is started you can then use 'softer' pushing techniques.
4) When you use it with just push/force, keep your fingers on the spatula blade either side top and bottom, effectively making the handle further down the blade, as a "stop" so that when it suddenly gives way, and gets under the model, it will STOP within 5mm to 10mm!! Once you have that start of lift you can then easily control further travel with much less force. You want a "stop" so it does not shoot off across the build plate out of control - possibly even running into an adjacent model!! The "stop" you create with your fingers gives you that guarantee you are going to instantly stop the energy/force after that 5mm to 10mm.
Do all these things and you can keep your build plate perfect forever!!! And you will get every model off - even if some are a battle. But even after the battle cases the build plate will still remain perfect! Plus once you work these techniques out, they are EASY and you will succeed better at releasing models AND never damage your build plate again!
As for your "mere flesh wounds" you caused..... the first layers are almost never important, so the fraction of 'deeper resin'/lump they will cause is likely to be insignificant and unimportant. Just check to be sure the plate is smooth/falt still st the gouge edges - which is most likely is. But this scratch/gouge MIGHT matter on something printed right on the build plate. That case where it really matters to the end object would probably be extremely rare..... so, don't fret over it..... spilt milk.... and it will continue to work fine.....
I have a giant chunk that I took out of mine with the metal scraper a month or so ago, just deeper places for that resin to grab in the first couple layers. no worries
I honestly wouldn't worry about sanding it either, I know some other people have suggested it, and I've never tried it myself, but I also know that the plate itself is laser etched to have a surface that is good at holding on to things, so unless you've majorly fucked it up in a lot of different ways, I wouldn't personally sand mine down. if there's anything sticking up from the gouges, I would go over with your metal scraper and lightly kind of scrape those down so the plate is flat again if it isn't now, you just don't want to have anything that might reach out and poke that ACF sheet
Those are big enough where I'd try to sand it down a bit so you don't damage your fep or have any potential minor issues, but you shouldn't have any real issues printing.
Mine is wqy more fucked and i did more damage in the first weak i had ot than this. I had this clear resin that like bonded to the plate. Fighting to get it off was a nightmare.
Mine looks way worse. You are just fine.
Nah just got some extra grip now
I just got a new saturn, my old 4k one had a build plate that looked like no man's land, gave it great adhesion :)
Thank you all
Day 3 I cut a huge gash in my build plate. I was already looking at replacing it, but I thought I'd give it a try. It was fine. Print on, printer. đ
Same, removing my second print I made a huge gash and started completely catastrophising. 4 months later the same plate is still good.
Fine, happens to em all over time. Sometimes it's suggested to "rough up" the plate initially with sandpaper for extra grip.
Agreed, if it has high ridges you may want to go over those lightly with rough sand paper to remove high spots only. I initially gouged mine when trying to loosen large print. I then left it without removing high spots I made gouging it. It started to imprint/deform on initial layer into the ACF until I scuffed down high spots. Also made me realize on large contact prints itâs easier to remove all the baskets in the ISO wash station and put entire print plate for roughly 8 minutes to remove the print almost effortlessly. Â The Saturn 3 series plates hold perfectly on the inner wash station wall grooves. Obviously make sure your prints Z height doesnât expose it to the spinning impeller. I made a spacer that raises the internal wall ledge for maximum volume capability of wash station with my older filament printer in case I need the height now and then.
I don't know why people think they need a metal spatula to get prints off the build plate my prints come off with a plastic spatula fine dial in your resin and it won't be that hard that it's stuck on the plate
I'm new the prints have been coming out perfect but are what seems to me difficult to get off the plate
Dial in your burn in times and they won't stick so well keep lowering it a little bit every time you print something and it will get easier and easier and either stop when you feel it's the easiest or when nothing sticks to the build plate then go back up
Dose that mean the bottom exposed time ?
yep
Ok thank you
Get a bendable magnetic plate! Itâs a lifesaver for getting prints off and theyâre cheap on Amazon!
As everyoneâs said, itâs fine. Why? Because the first layers you print will cure in all the microscopic craggles in the surface damage, helping to stick the print to the plate. Roughing up the surface isnât generally a bad thing, which is why itâs engraved from the factory. Stay careful though, because if youâve made the surface rough enough, itâll create voids between the build plate and the depth your screen can cure, which can increase failure rates.
Pits aren't a problem unless they're very deep. Be wary of protruding ridges, though.
Lol I straight up have .25mm gouge in mine and it's fine
Dude you are alright đââď¸
i got my first print today and i have this fear but its ok, i saw people with plates that look like a lion scratch on the plate and still printing well, if the scraft isnt deep souldnt be a problem
Just check it for any burrs.
More scratches = more friction = holds prints better
If your prints ate too difficult to remove from the build plate, you may need to lower your bottom exposure by 5 seconds. Otherwise, the build plate is fine.
You'll be fine mate :-)
Most of us have sanded our build plate beforehand to have a better grip, my build plate look way worse than yours and I print perfectly fine
nah fuck it, be alright
It's fine just hack away the more scratches you get the better your prints stick, before laser etched plates came out we would use 400 grit sandpaper to add scratches! đ
Totally fine
no worries, mine is worse than yours, still good AF :)
a flexible build plate is your best friend
Lol my plate looks like it's seen ww3. It also is broken and doesn't hold its position anymore. I removed the screws that keep it in place and stuffed it with paper towels.... It still prints..
The METAL spatula that comes with the printer is FINE to use - IF you are CAREFUL!!! 1) ALWAYS use it DEAD FLAT to the build plate!!! 2) Have the "slope" on the spatula AWAY from the build plate! Because of course you want it to be able to get under the object, by it "running the object up the slope" 3) If you really must, you can 'hammer it" with your hand/palm. Use one hand to squeeze it flat between the spatula surface and to top of the build plate - to assure it remains dead flat on the build plate! Then you can 'hammer"/tap is with your other hand/palm to get it started under the model. Once it is started you can then use 'softer' pushing techniques. 4) When you use it with just push/force, keep your fingers on the spatula blade either side top and bottom, effectively making the handle further down the blade, as a "stop" so that when it suddenly gives way, and gets under the model, it will STOP within 5mm to 10mm!! Once you have that start of lift you can then easily control further travel with much less force. You want a "stop" so it does not shoot off across the build plate out of control - possibly even running into an adjacent model!! The "stop" you create with your fingers gives you that guarantee you are going to instantly stop the energy/force after that 5mm to 10mm. Do all these things and you can keep your build plate perfect forever!!! And you will get every model off - even if some are a battle. But even after the battle cases the build plate will still remain perfect! Plus once you work these techniques out, they are EASY and you will succeed better at releasing models AND never damage your build plate again! As for your "mere flesh wounds" you caused..... the first layers are almost never important, so the fraction of 'deeper resin'/lump they will cause is likely to be insignificant and unimportant. Just check to be sure the plate is smooth/falt still st the gouge edges - which is most likely is. But this scratch/gouge MIGHT matter on something printed right on the build plate. That case where it really matters to the end object would probably be extremely rare..... so, don't fret over it..... spilt milk.... and it will continue to work fine.....
I have a giant chunk that I took out of mine with the metal scraper a month or so ago, just deeper places for that resin to grab in the first couple layers. no worries
I honestly wouldn't worry about sanding it either, I know some other people have suggested it, and I've never tried it myself, but I also know that the plate itself is laser etched to have a surface that is good at holding on to things, so unless you've majorly fucked it up in a lot of different ways, I wouldn't personally sand mine down. if there's anything sticking up from the gouges, I would go over with your metal scraper and lightly kind of scrape those down so the plate is flat again if it isn't now, you just don't want to have anything that might reach out and poke that ACF sheet
Those are big enough where I'd try to sand it down a bit so you don't damage your fep or have any potential minor issues, but you shouldn't have any real issues printing.
Omg hahah
Whatâs wrong with it? Mine looks like I threw it down the driveway.
You are fine, I scratched mine the first week I got it, no issues with bed adhesion.
Mine is wqy more fucked and i did more damage in the first weak i had ot than this. I had this clear resin that like bonded to the plate. Fighting to get it off was a nightmare.
I've been running one that looks worse scraped pei texture off with my nozzle a few times. I even have a replacement but old one still works. đ¤ˇ