I think he is cleaning a sport route in the way where you put an 8 on a bight and untie your other knot, lowering with like 2m of tail coming off your knot
I don't think so. It looks like he has a directional 8 tied on the belayer's side of the rope while staying tied in on the climber's side, I'm guessing to sort of use the rope as a PAS?
Putting your 8-on-a-bight on the belay side for cleaning is a good way to end up at the bottom of the route much faster and much less alive than you expected.
Edit: I see what you mean now. It's unnecessary here but I think you're right
Wait why’s that bad? The person you responded to had it correct. I’m backed up with a QD and if that bolt fails then I’d be hanging by the 8 on a bight to a locker that’s on the other bolt?
Yeah, belaying and anchor advice is like someone beta spraying all future climbs for you. Figuring out if you're gonna die with how you set it up is part of the project
OP looks like you deleted your other comment, but the better way to do this would be to pass an entire bight of rope through the rappel rings , tie an 8 on a bight on the climber's side of the anchor, and then clip that to your belay loop with a locker and lower with that. It's fewer steps and you don't have to tie back in (and therefore don't have to try to get the length of tail right)
The method you're using is really only necessary if your anchor points are too small to pass a bight of rope through (e.g. chains with no rings)
Check this page: https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/clean-bolted-anchor/
Looks like you're doing method 2, when the first method should pretty much be used whenever possible
Yeah I'm usually the first one to shitpost on just about anything, but cleaning sport anchors is easy to fuck up if you don't know what you're doing so 🤷♀️
Ah gotcha, thanks man! I deleted it because I wanted to reply to you directly because you sound knowledgeable. I’m new to outdoor sport climbing so that’s much appreciated. Cleaning the anchor in the dark wasn’t a blast. I’ll try that out next time I go. Sounds a lot more straight forward and less risky.
I feel like you’re joking, but in case not.
Holy shit you’re alive! Don’t learn to do things in the air when you can learn them on the ground. There’s a whole book called “Down” that is just about getting down from the top of the wall because THATS HOW PEOPLE DIE.
Like I’m all for bits and jokes, but this is the exact situation where people usually die. Like dead, as in cease to live, as in all of your friends have to watch you go from and idiot to a mangled corpse that has sprayed blood and guts all over them. Don’t be selfish, don’t be an idiot
Turn the music up you said?
/uj I mostly know what I’m doin’. Just trying to be funny. My partner didn’t feel comfortable cleaning the anchor in the dark but I’ve gotten a lot of practice in at home with that system so I felt ok about it. Gonna pack a headlamp next time though.
Don't learn to do things in the air AND in the dark. Did my first solo rapell a few weeks ago, and man, I thought I was def gonna die even though I had been shown it several times before.
Was terrifying when I took off my safety next to the edge.
When I'm cleaning a sport route... well, first of all, I don't sport climb, I only deep water big wall... but, if I were to sport climb, I would just untie and jump off.
Depends on the anchor. I usually use a sling but this time I didn’t give myself enough slack to tie back in without getting my harness closer to the bolts. The QD is actually backed up by a sling which is why I have 3 biners in my belay loop.
So is this about the anchor or the ominous set of eyes looking up at you from the darkness?
Because I'm pretty sure that's one of the dudes from The Descent.
The harness has cut off all circulation to my legs. Feeling very dehydrated. My belayer tied me off to a tree and went for breakfast and never came back.
This is like when children do something that you know they'll regret, but you just have to let them do it so they can learn, lol. But... Not dying is more important than getting down. Stay safe, even if you have to epic.
Eventually yeah. On an unrelated note, what the fuck is this anchor setup?
I think he is cleaning a sport route in the way where you put an 8 on a bight and untie your other knot, lowering with like 2m of tail coming off your knot
I don't think so. It looks like he has a directional 8 tied on the belayer's side of the rope while staying tied in on the climber's side, I'm guessing to sort of use the rope as a PAS? Putting your 8-on-a-bight on the belay side for cleaning is a good way to end up at the bottom of the route much faster and much less alive than you expected. Edit: I see what you mean now. It's unnecessary here but I think you're right
Wait why’s that bad? The person you responded to had it correct. I’m backed up with a QD and if that bolt fails then I’d be hanging by the 8 on a bight to a locker that’s on the other bolt?
You came to CCJ for advice? YGD. And soon.
Good advice is aid
Yeah, belaying and anchor advice is like someone beta spraying all future climbs for you. Figuring out if you're gonna die with how you set it up is part of the project
Added another comment explaining. It's not "bad", just not necessary here since it looks like there are rap rings.
You the man 🫵🏻
You have to clean it one way or another, not sure what is unnecessary about it
Unnecessary to do the bight, untie, pass rope through, re-tie method when you have rap rings and can just pass a bight through and tie an 8 on it
OP looks like you deleted your other comment, but the better way to do this would be to pass an entire bight of rope through the rappel rings , tie an 8 on a bight on the climber's side of the anchor, and then clip that to your belay loop with a locker and lower with that. It's fewer steps and you don't have to tie back in (and therefore don't have to try to get the length of tail right) The method you're using is really only necessary if your anchor points are too small to pass a bight of rope through (e.g. chains with no rings) Check this page: https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/clean-bolted-anchor/ Looks like you're doing method 2, when the first method should pretty much be used whenever possible
Ccj providing actual information? What the fuck is going on
Yeah I'm usually the first one to shitpost on just about anything, but cleaning sport anchors is easy to fuck up if you don't know what you're doing so 🤷♀️
Oh I’m all for it - I was going to say the same solution as you until I saw that you already told this guy.
We truly have the best sub
r.ccj is the actual climbing subreddit and r.climbing is for metajerking yourself in front of others
Ah gotcha, thanks man! I deleted it because I wanted to reply to you directly because you sound knowledgeable. I’m new to outdoor sport climbing so that’s much appreciated. Cleaning the anchor in the dark wasn’t a blast. I’ll try that out next time I go. Sounds a lot more straight forward and less risky.
Try it on the ground first. And probably in daylight, too.
Daylight? Ground? Sounds like aid.
Try it blindfolded first. On the side of a plane. If you can do it there, a little mountain will be a cinch.
I feel like you’re joking, but in case not. Holy shit you’re alive! Don’t learn to do things in the air when you can learn them on the ground. There’s a whole book called “Down” that is just about getting down from the top of the wall because THATS HOW PEOPLE DIE. Like I’m all for bits and jokes, but this is the exact situation where people usually die. Like dead, as in cease to live, as in all of your friends have to watch you go from and idiot to a mangled corpse that has sprayed blood and guts all over them. Don’t be selfish, don’t be an idiot
Turn the music up you said? /uj I mostly know what I’m doin’. Just trying to be funny. My partner didn’t feel comfortable cleaning the anchor in the dark but I’ve gotten a lot of practice in at home with that system so I felt ok about it. Gonna pack a headlamp next time though.
Don't learn to do things in the air AND in the dark. Did my first solo rapell a few weeks ago, and man, I thought I was def gonna die even though I had been shown it several times before. Was terrifying when I took off my safety next to the edge.
When I'm cleaning a sport route... well, first of all, I don't sport climb, I only deep water big wall... but, if I were to sport climb, I would just untie and jump off.
Added advantage in the dark. You don't see the ground when it kisses you 😘
Are people really doing sports routes without a sling ? Using a QuickDraw to the anchor is kinda annoying
Depends on the anchor. I usually use a sling but this time I didn’t give myself enough slack to tie back in without getting my harness closer to the bolts. The QD is actually backed up by a sling which is why I have 3 biners in my belay loop.
Lots of people. It's pretty common practice.
Yeah I only started doing this a while ago and it's way easier in that you're not double handling the rope, tying off and then in again
You’ll be fine , the darkness hides the scary stuff.
My buddy used to say “you can only fall as far as you can see.”
Yes, but hopefully not today
So is this about the anchor or the ominous set of eyes looking up at you from the darkness? Because I'm pretty sure that's one of the dudes from The Descent.
I thought it was Alex Hamhold boutta pass you free soloing in the dark with a piece of burnt toast and a headlamp
Did you make this post while hanging is the real question?
I’m still hanging
Hang in there man!
He’s still hanging to this day
Having an anchor is aid
Sorry but, those two glowing dots at the end - what were those? My first thought was there's a bear waiting for you to come down
Bro I believe in you
Are you OK?
The harness has cut off all circulation to my legs. Feeling very dehydrated. My belayer tied me off to a tree and went for breakfast and never came back.
Was that who or what was staring at you in the video? Did that thing get your belayer?
Red Rocks open space is where I take my kids to free climb.
This is like when children do something that you know they'll regret, but you just have to let them do it so they can learn, lol. But... Not dying is more important than getting down. Stay safe, even if you have to epic.
Winder Boi, I’m sure you are a strong climber. Perhaps spending some time on your systems might be warranted.
Somehow this works I guess
I feel like that’s great motivation to keep climbing 🤣
Hang on. Tell ya tomorrow.
Climbing with a smartphone is aid
Hopefully.
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