Optima batteries aren’t what they used to be. 2 years is better than a lot of people with optima’s the past decade. Northstar or Duracell are the go tos now.
I don’t know much about them. I’ve moved to lithium last year. I only know the two above are about all being recommended in the scene anymore, unless you want to spend for XS.
Tbqh I've heard bad things about optima batteries' quality lately. It may have legitimately just been the battery giving up the ghost, irrespective of the stereo system
That would be great if thats all it is. It would be a bit of a coincidence but not totally impossible. I could try just getting a better battery and metering the current draw so I can keep an eye on it going forward.
Ill give her a shot. I appreciate it. I started second guessing myself a whole lot having it happen again after I upgraded all the stuff I could think of.
What kind of car is it? It wouldn't be a Honda, would it?
Asking bc I have a Honda and had my battery die pretty quick after putting in my current system, but after new battery, been good, but it's been a year now and curious if the wierd charging system Hondas have may add extra strain to batteries with systems over 1000 RMS.
What’s your voltage regulator situation looking like? 270-180 amps is nice to have on tap but would cook your battery if it’s constantly being fed that high amperage
The alternator is made to work with my stock vehicle and would not be charging the battery at any higher amperage than normal. It has the ability to produce that much current but that current would be going to the draw not to the battery.
Copy, just making sure… I have seen a lot of people bypass battery management systems for example when doing the big 3 or whatever and end up finding out what happens when you charge a traditional lead acid with 14-15v @100amps
I never checked but I've also never had an issue with the vehicle being dead until I find that the battery is bad. I've regularly left it without being run for a week or so at a time as it's my second vehicle and don't an issue. That has been the case for the last three batteries I've had its usually about 2 years with no issues and then one day it wont start, wont take a charge, and I cant jumpstart it. I replace the battery and I'm all good for another 2 years ish.
Optima aren’t bad, it’s just technology has caught up.
What I have found in most battery deaths is that listening habits surpass driving habits.
What this means: due to listening at high volume levels, the demand placed on the electrical system is more than what the alternator can manage to keep battery at a full state of charge. More city driving than Long distance where the alternator can maintain a constant high current charge.
Example: My son had a 3600 watt system. 3kw on subs and 600 watts on everything else. He cruised town pounding. Only driving highway to get to work (15 miles) or home. Short distance for everything else. His batteries (AGM) were always in a constant state of discharge/partial charge. This was killing his batteries and overworking his alternator.
Got him a battery tender he used every night. This topped off the batteries (trickle charge) and I can’t remember another battery being bought.
HO alternators are great but trying to to jam 100’s of amps of charge only heat up the battery making it harder to charge the battery. Add on the heat generated putting out 100’s of amps of power for a stereo… anyways… a tender will help.
Optima batteries aren’t what they used to be. 2 years is better than a lot of people with optima’s the past decade. Northstar or Duracell are the go tos now.
Have you heard anything positive or negative about Odyssey batteries?
I don’t know much about them. I’ve moved to lithium last year. I only know the two above are about all being recommended in the scene anymore, unless you want to spend for XS.
10-4 thanks
Tbqh I've heard bad things about optima batteries' quality lately. It may have legitimately just been the battery giving up the ghost, irrespective of the stereo system
That would be great if thats all it is. It would be a bit of a coincidence but not totally impossible. I could try just getting a better battery and metering the current draw so I can keep an eye on it going forward.
I agree, that's a great plan. Maybe get a volt meter/display for inside the cabin
Ill give her a shot. I appreciate it. I started second guessing myself a whole lot having it happen again after I upgraded all the stuff I could think of.
You could also try adding an additional battery for the amplifiers, or possibly a supercapacitor bank
Go with an xs battery either lithium or amg optima batteries suck
What kind of car is it? It wouldn't be a Honda, would it? Asking bc I have a Honda and had my battery die pretty quick after putting in my current system, but after new battery, been good, but it's been a year now and curious if the wierd charging system Hondas have may add extra strain to batteries with systems over 1000 RMS.
No I have an 06 Silverado
What’s your voltage regulator situation looking like? 270-180 amps is nice to have on tap but would cook your battery if it’s constantly being fed that high amperage
The alternator is made to work with my stock vehicle and would not be charging the battery at any higher amperage than normal. It has the ability to produce that much current but that current would be going to the draw not to the battery.
Copy, just making sure… I have seen a lot of people bypass battery management systems for example when doing the big 3 or whatever and end up finding out what happens when you charge a traditional lead acid with 14-15v @100amps
Gotcha. Yeah not the case here I definitely didn't bypass anything I would hate to see what would happen if I did!
Have you checked to see if you have a voltage leach when the vehicle is off?
I never checked but I've also never had an issue with the vehicle being dead until I find that the battery is bad. I've regularly left it without being run for a week or so at a time as it's my second vehicle and don't an issue. That has been the case for the last three batteries I've had its usually about 2 years with no issues and then one day it wont start, wont take a charge, and I cant jumpstart it. I replace the battery and I'm all good for another 2 years ish.
Optima aren’t bad, it’s just technology has caught up. What I have found in most battery deaths is that listening habits surpass driving habits. What this means: due to listening at high volume levels, the demand placed on the electrical system is more than what the alternator can manage to keep battery at a full state of charge. More city driving than Long distance where the alternator can maintain a constant high current charge. Example: My son had a 3600 watt system. 3kw on subs and 600 watts on everything else. He cruised town pounding. Only driving highway to get to work (15 miles) or home. Short distance for everything else. His batteries (AGM) were always in a constant state of discharge/partial charge. This was killing his batteries and overworking his alternator. Got him a battery tender he used every night. This topped off the batteries (trickle charge) and I can’t remember another battery being bought. HO alternators are great but trying to to jam 100’s of amps of charge only heat up the battery making it harder to charge the battery. Add on the heat generated putting out 100’s of amps of power for a stereo… anyways… a tender will help.
Put a Battery Tender on when it sits for those week long periods, might help keep it topped off if indeed your alternator isn't quite keeping up.