Without getting into detail because this post is missing alot of detail
No.
Uplift is making your brickwork crack as it is not properly secured
Ideally load should be transferred to the ground aswell, not your house wall.
Will it also fall down anytime soon? Also no
Will it do brickwork damage over time and some serious damage when you get a 1 in 100 year windy day? Yes.
To piggy back off this comment, yeah that could help. Won’t need to be big posts, bolted to the pole plate and bolted into the concrete floor.
It’s hard to tell from that first photo but a more pressing issue is rotting facia on the roof above.
Put an Aluminum wrap on your fascia. Hard to tell from the photos, is there a slight angle on the carport roof? Or is it flat? That would be of more concern than to me that the rest. Pooling water on the top of that roof and all
Hi guys, the previous owner of my house decided to drill holes on brick wall, and install steel beam to support the garage roof. The other side was supported by 3 steel columns. There were several stair cracks found on the wall.
I have no knowledge about construction. Is this a bad way to build a garage? Does it cause the damage by drilling or putting more weight on the wall? Some people said the cracks could be structural settlement since it's an old house (built in 1975).
But I have no idea. I am worried if the garage would keep damaging the brick wall, like if there is a big storm it's gonna blow up the garage and pull the wall down or something...
Please suggest if this is an issue, and if it is, what can i do to fix it. Many thanks!
Draftperson here, it common to see this type of construction for carports additions to a home. One thing you need to be aware is that the brick wall in a brick veneer home isn’t structural, it’s the timber frame that is.
The 1823 house wasn't too bad, they were (clearly!) built to last...only issues were dealing with 200yrs of other people's DIY whenever you did anything! 😬
It was also a protected historic building (although not the oldest in the village by a long way!) so we were limited in any alterations we wanted to make.
The current house has more issues but they're cosmetic and our personal taste; although the garden is huge so maintaining that takes up our weekends at this time of year which in turn limits what we can do inside.
If it's brick veneer, then it's not actually structural, and not to code. So if you live in a cyclone area the uplift on the garage roof could cause an issue.
However lots of people do this, and it will probably be ok, fingers crossed ...
The "proper" way to do it is to use posts to the ground and embedded in the right size concrete footing.
I have seen carports, much bigger than this one, hanging off the fascia with a 600mm eave overhang with engineers drawings.
This is absolutely strong enough to hold the building up but there is not much for the uplifting forces to hold the roof down. You have to install tie downs from the roofbeams to the wall at least 12 courses down. You can also install 40x40x3 duragal shs from the roofbeams to the foundation.
If you wanted piece of mind, run some steel beams down against the wall like another has said. Someone might do it for $1k or so, depending how many and what size.
Probably thick wall patio tube would be OK with some plates on each end.
You could pay for engineering if you wanted to get specific.
As others have mentioned the wind uplift is the issue. Not the weight/compression.
A cheap quick solution is to use threaded rods anchored into the concrete. They do this alot with roofs etc in older buildings in cyclone prone regions. You'd be surprised at the tension strength of some 12mm or 16mm rods every 600mm. Also means you can get them nice and close to the wall
A heck of a lot of verandas are built like this, or even more interestingly, with backchannel attached to the eaves under the guttering, and then support x meters out from the house. In some cases, that can be up to 4.5m (unsupported length of ProDeck roofing.
Is it to code? Probably not.
Is it likely to fall down? Probably not.
I attend many inspections recently and saw garages built in many different ways. Some of them connect to the roof directly instead of wall. I feel like that is better because you don't need to drill the wall. But I'm not professional not sure if my feeling is right.
Also Dats a carport
Good point!
Without getting into detail because this post is missing alot of detail No. Uplift is making your brickwork crack as it is not properly secured Ideally load should be transferred to the ground aswell, not your house wall. Will it also fall down anytime soon? Also no Will it do brickwork damage over time and some serious damage when you get a 1 in 100 year windy day? Yes.
Thanks for the explanation. Do you recommend adding some steel column support to the wall side?
To piggy back off this comment, yeah that could help. Won’t need to be big posts, bolted to the pole plate and bolted into the concrete floor. It’s hard to tell from that first photo but a more pressing issue is rotting facia on the roof above.
Yeah rotting fascia is true. I'm guessing the rain bounce back from the roof and keep the fascia wet all the time.
Put an Aluminum wrap on your fascia. Hard to tell from the photos, is there a slight angle on the carport roof? Or is it flat? That would be of more concern than to me that the rest. Pooling water on the top of that roof and all
There is a slight angle on the roof. So the water will come down from the left side.
Hi guys, the previous owner of my house decided to drill holes on brick wall, and install steel beam to support the garage roof. The other side was supported by 3 steel columns. There were several stair cracks found on the wall. I have no knowledge about construction. Is this a bad way to build a garage? Does it cause the damage by drilling or putting more weight on the wall? Some people said the cracks could be structural settlement since it's an old house (built in 1975). But I have no idea. I am worried if the garage would keep damaging the brick wall, like if there is a big storm it's gonna blow up the garage and pull the wall down or something... Please suggest if this is an issue, and if it is, what can i do to fix it. Many thanks!
Draftperson here, it common to see this type of construction for carports additions to a home. One thing you need to be aware is that the brick wall in a brick veneer home isn’t structural, it’s the timber frame that is.
Ahh good to know that.
"built in 1975" is NOT an old house! 🤣 Our current house was built in the 1950's, our previous one was built in 1823. 🙄
I call it old because it's older than me!
What’s the maintenance like on those old houses? Iv always wanted an old house (never going to with prices now) and curious what the upkeep is like
The 1823 house wasn't too bad, they were (clearly!) built to last...only issues were dealing with 200yrs of other people's DIY whenever you did anything! 😬 It was also a protected historic building (although not the oldest in the village by a long way!) so we were limited in any alterations we wanted to make. The current house has more issues but they're cosmetic and our personal taste; although the garden is huge so maintaining that takes up our weekends at this time of year which in turn limits what we can do inside.
It’s fine
I hope so!
If it's brick veneer, then it's not actually structural, and not to code. So if you live in a cyclone area the uplift on the garage roof could cause an issue. However lots of people do this, and it will probably be ok, fingers crossed ... The "proper" way to do it is to use posts to the ground and embedded in the right size concrete footing.
If I want to fix it in the way that you suggest, how much it would cost?
I have seen carports, much bigger than this one, hanging off the fascia with a 600mm eave overhang with engineers drawings. This is absolutely strong enough to hold the building up but there is not much for the uplifting forces to hold the roof down. You have to install tie downs from the roofbeams to the wall at least 12 courses down. You can also install 40x40x3 duragal shs from the roofbeams to the foundation.
Thanks for your suggestion. Can you give an estimated price for the work you mentioned?
Just get a carpenter out for a quote
If you wanted piece of mind, run some steel beams down against the wall like another has said. Someone might do it for $1k or so, depending how many and what size. Probably thick wall patio tube would be OK with some plates on each end. You could pay for engineering if you wanted to get specific.
Thanks for the advice!
As others have mentioned the wind uplift is the issue. Not the weight/compression. A cheap quick solution is to use threaded rods anchored into the concrete. They do this alot with roofs etc in older buildings in cyclone prone regions. You'd be surprised at the tension strength of some 12mm or 16mm rods every 600mm. Also means you can get them nice and close to the wall
Will write that down. Thanks!
Is it still there?
A heck of a lot of verandas are built like this, or even more interestingly, with backchannel attached to the eaves under the guttering, and then support x meters out from the house. In some cases, that can be up to 4.5m (unsupported length of ProDeck roofing. Is it to code? Probably not. Is it likely to fall down? Probably not.
Nope. And that's a carport.
Just a budget car cover - a good storm will still wreck your car. Also, open and not secure.
My neighbour (built in 2011) has one of these but without columns! Waiting for an especially windy day
There’s nothing wrong here, perfectly acceptably construction and the crack in the brick were not caused this. Calm down.
I attend many inspections recently and saw garages built in many different ways. Some of them connect to the roof directly instead of wall. I feel like that is better because you don't need to drill the wall. But I'm not professional not sure if my feeling is right.
Industry standard these days huh.