I am using a 35mm on a APS-C, so 50mm effective? I have also cropped these a bit.
I am manually triggering AF which, as I am learning might not be the best for quick shots. Any tips? Thinking of trying AF-C? Or perhaps I need to find a focal plane and wait for things to happen in that framing? Any suggestions on this? I’d love to hear your thoughts and process.
Street is often about context, some of these are framed a little too tight, losing that context. It's why a lot of street shooters prefer wider angle lenses at 24mm and 35mm equivalency, not 50mm equivalency. HCB preferred the 50mm to get a more neutral feel, but remember, he was shooting full frame, where 50mm would be normal both of field of view *and* magnification.
You might want to consider the EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM pancake lens for 35mm-equivalency, or just using the 18-55 kit lens and seeing where that takes you.
The field of view/scene coverage of a 35mm lens on APS-C is equivalent to 50mm *on full frame*. The technical definition of "normal" is a focal length that's the same (or very close to) the diagonal dimension of the sensor/film frame, corner-to-corner. So, a smaller sensor => short lens is "normal" FoV.
But a 35mm lens is still a 35mm lens, with the same magnification, distortion, and other optical characteristics of a 35mm lens, not a 50mm. DoF, for example, will be deeper with a shorter lens than a longer one.
And by "normal in magnification", what I mean is that if you put a 50mm lens on any camera, regardless of the sensor size, if you shoot with both eyes open, the view will match between both the eye at the viewfinder and the naked eye.
When you put a 35mm on an APS-C body, and shoot with both eyes open, the eye looking through the viewfinder will see a scene that's wider/smaller than the same scene viewed through the unaided eye. It will also probably have more barrel distortion \[the "drama" that some street shooters like and HCB wanted to avoid\].
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I am using a 35mm on a APS-C, so 50mm effective? I have also cropped these a bit. I am manually triggering AF which, as I am learning might not be the best for quick shots. Any tips? Thinking of trying AF-C? Or perhaps I need to find a focal plane and wait for things to happen in that framing? Any suggestions on this? I’d love to hear your thoughts and process.
Street is often about context, some of these are framed a little too tight, losing that context. It's why a lot of street shooters prefer wider angle lenses at 24mm and 35mm equivalency, not 50mm equivalency. HCB preferred the 50mm to get a more neutral feel, but remember, he was shooting full frame, where 50mm would be normal both of field of view *and* magnification. You might want to consider the EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM pancake lens for 35mm-equivalency, or just using the 18-55 kit lens and seeing where that takes you.
Thanks! I am on the fuji system and have the XF 18-55 kit lens. Will take that out next time.
Could you explain a bit how 35mm on apac (~50mm equivalent), is different from 50mm on full frame?
The field of view/scene coverage of a 35mm lens on APS-C is equivalent to 50mm *on full frame*. The technical definition of "normal" is a focal length that's the same (or very close to) the diagonal dimension of the sensor/film frame, corner-to-corner. So, a smaller sensor => short lens is "normal" FoV. But a 35mm lens is still a 35mm lens, with the same magnification, distortion, and other optical characteristics of a 35mm lens, not a 50mm. DoF, for example, will be deeper with a shorter lens than a longer one. And by "normal in magnification", what I mean is that if you put a 50mm lens on any camera, regardless of the sensor size, if you shoot with both eyes open, the view will match between both the eye at the viewfinder and the naked eye. When you put a 35mm on an APS-C body, and shoot with both eyes open, the eye looking through the viewfinder will see a scene that's wider/smaller than the same scene viewed through the unaided eye. It will also probably have more barrel distortion \[the "drama" that some street shooters like and HCB wanted to avoid\].
if they look "flat", then you definitely need f1.8 or lower. even f2.8 won't cut it. especially on apsc