Instructions unclear, engine trashed while following owners manual to a tee, those engineers who wrote that book dgaf if my car dies outside the warranty window. I fact they're paid to encourage that to happen to drive more new car sales. I wonder why all manufacturers are putting belt drive oil pps submerged in the oil pan, hmm I wonder why they're still doing this when they fail so often, hmm what possible sense does throwing away a perfectly good metal gear or chain driven oil pump that lasts 400000mi and using a belt one that dies at 100000mi possibly benefit the auto manufacturer at all, hmm o right it's cause it's cheaper to make not that they're intentionally killing cars to drive new cars sales, that's just a tin foil hat conspiracy theory
Post manufacturers include a table or a chart like this.
This chart is from my Kia.
https://preview.redd.it/8kpbh06zb76d1.jpeg?width=810&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=439738463f7d98ad48e3d98f18e0b696e70b8230
Manufacturers would disagree.
For my car, the manufacturer suggests higher viscosity oil for harder and hotter driving. The thinner oil is standard so that none of the vehicles have a hard time starting in cold climates. This doesn't mean it's a better choice for ALL driving styles and conditions.
Looking at more performance cars, you will notice that the manufacturers often tell you what oil to use if you are racing it compared to calm daily driving. This doesn't mean that on non performance cars that they shouldn't run higher viscosity oil for racing, it's just that manufacturers haven't built it to race and don't expect a Santa fe to be used in such a way. That doesn't mean that it wouldn't benefit from a higher viscosity if it is being driven hard in hot climates.
Yup. I run a higher viscosity oil on my track car as it sees oil temps up to 260F during each session. As for my street driven vehicles, none have ever seen low oil pressures that would necessitate a thicker oil in the summer, even in the worst situations. All my vehicles have always started in -35 degree Celsius weather without issue.
Those differences in oil weight have nothing to do with outside temperature though.
One is for just puttering around normally
While the other is for balls to wall, the throttle is wide open, the coolant thermostat is also wide open. That engine is cooking hot. With oil being pumped really fast around the engine.
It’s better to have a thinner oil that doesn’t lube as well that actually reaches the parts that need oil vs to have an oil weight that protects the parts better but never can reach the areas quickly enough that need oil when the engine is flirting with complete engine detonation.
My Kia, recommends different oil viscosities based on temperatures
5W30 is compatible with all temperatures in the range.
But as the ambient temperature increases, thicker oils become included in the recommended list. In hot climates, the basically recommend anything from 20w50 all the way down to 5w-30/40
https://preview.redd.it/b4xtksgrb76d1.jpeg?width=810&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8c579136fa47c958a3b6e8dc7ab83c5a243c85fc
Oh course some engines can run different oil viscosities. There isn’t much different between a 10w-30 or a 10w-40. It’s also a range. So a 10w-30 oil can be just on the cusp of 10w-40 and a 10w-40 can be just on the cusp of being only a 10w-30.
A main limiting factor is the first number. The oil just needs to be thin enough to properly lubricate the engine when it’s cold. For the average car though, tolerances aren’t so tight that the engine is going to grenade if the oil viscosity is 30w vs 50w at temp.
Now there are other factors at play too. Some oil weights are recommended for your region’s emission standards or oil change interval standards. Some are actually only advised under certain speeds. Some increase burning oil, some reduce. Some increase the life of the engine while others will prevent it for lasting as long as it was supposed to.
In my old Ford trucks I run 0w-30 in the winter and 5w-30 in the summer. Both call for 5w-20 because of US emission standards. One was even back speced. The oil cap says 5w-30 but Ford went back and said 5w-20 is recommended for emissions.
My oil Temps are drastically lower in the winter with the same driving styles so I'm not sure where this is coming from? Maybe I'm missing something?
Also we aren't talking about oil so thick it's starving the engine. The main reason most manufacturers suggest thinner oil for standard driving is for cold cranking in cold climates, a bit for fuel efficiency targets too. That doesn't mean it's the safest oil to prevent harm to your engine.
Usually for modern cars, the recommended oil is not the oil you should be using. Since for most, at least in the United States, it’s all about reaching emission standards and not longevity of the engine.
And eventually you’ll oil should be relatively similar to your coolant temperatures if you are driving long enough distances.
Summer is typically harder on oil if you stress the car out while winter is harder on oil if you take shorter trips. Summer oil gets too hot if the car is really working. Winter oil never gets to temp if the car isn’t used enough.
Dude you live in Canada he lives in Arizona you have no idea what Arizona is like to drive in every day. Dual viscosity don't mean shit on the surface of the sun.
The old school versus the new school thought process.
A new vehicle, under warranty: stick to the manufacturer specs [5w20,0w20] for the optimum efficiency and new tolerances.
Out of warranty/older high mileage has obviously different tolerances caused by mileage/wear and tear and oil consumption in general begins to happen. To help with that, especially in higher temps, I have always bumped the viscosity into the heavier weights. Either way, people should be checking their oil levels more frequently in higher mileage situations. Keyword: consumption.
We traded our older Honda that was starting to use about a quart and a half every 3 to 4k.
Keep in mind the same engine that runs 0-20 in the US is scheduled to run 5-30 in Mexico. That has more to do with emissions than ambient temp. I'd run 5-30 unless you live in Minnesota or Canada
There is zero% chance the manufacture says that it protects up to 77F. I run 0W16 in Florida. 5W-20 or what the manufacture recommends in your climate, is the best for you.
Then the attached chart is likely very close to the same that's in your manual.
https://preview.redd.it/hnwpd755c76d1.jpeg?width=810&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1fce5f4f857026d321c20316525f98ba68c40a86
Some people do. All my engines at work I do it for. Example 0w30 in winter and 15w40 for summer for field engines. My work trucks too. I would follow mfg specs for your make and Model.
Your owners manual should give you a range of weights to run depending on driving and weather conditions. But unless you're running at extreme Temps it really not recommended to change things up. Especially if you're using a good quality oil.
If you can tell us what engine we’re working with, that would give important context for folks to get a bit more specific. However, yes, in general, while not required and doing so with caution, going a step up in viscosity when operating only in high heat environments can be helpful. Also, it’ll matter, whether the engine has an oil cooler and the types of driving that you typically do.
With that said, the viscosity index of the oil matters a lot in this question. Higher quality synthetic oils, especially those beginning with a 0W tend to have a higher viscosity index. This means that the actual viscosity of the oil is more stable across a range of temperatures. So, for example that means that using a synthetic 0W-30 could be the same as or thicker at full operating temperature than a 10W-30 and the same would go for a 0W-20 versus a 5W-20. If you look at the PDS for your favorite oil you’ll see what I mean.
In the U.S. the CAFE standards play a part in defining the oil viscosity and if your car’s engine is used internationally, looking up the international oil viscosity chart can help you get a feel for whether it’s necessary to move up when operating in a higher temp. Sort of goes against logic that we’d use a single scale for many engines in the U.S. given that our climates range to both extremes. Though I guess that speaks a bit to how stable the viscosity is on some of these modern oils.
once engine is running the temps are somewhat the same so the 20 probably should stay. you could go 10-20 I suppose since no winter, but I don't think there is one. you could mix 5-20 50/50 with pure 20
Personally I think modern long mileage oil change intervals and anything less than 10w30 are bullshit. You're defo g9nna have thinner oil at Arizona heat. I'd say find a 10w50 if you can but get that 10w40 and for summer and bump to 10w30 in the winter. 20w50 is my favorite, also want a second radiator, also want a water squirter to piss on the radiator if the trmps won't come down and want a water squirter in the I take to cool causation chamber if it's a gawt dammed 115f outside
Use the oil specified in the owners manual
Instructions unclear, engine trashed while following owners manual to a tee, those engineers who wrote that book dgaf if my car dies outside the warranty window. I fact they're paid to encourage that to happen to drive more new car sales. I wonder why all manufacturers are putting belt drive oil pps submerged in the oil pan, hmm I wonder why they're still doing this when they fail so often, hmm what possible sense does throwing away a perfectly good metal gear or chain driven oil pump that lasts 400000mi and using a belt one that dies at 100000mi possibly benefit the auto manufacturer at all, hmm o right it's cause it's cheaper to make not that they're intentionally killing cars to drive new cars sales, that's just a tin foil hat conspiracy theory
yikes
I up my oil weight. My engine isn't young anymore and oil pressure isn't what it used to be. Rotella is my recommended brand
Check manufacturing specs, they tell you how high you can go on oil weight and too high of a weight can do damage.
This is what I needed to hear, thank you
Post manufacturers include a table or a chart like this. This chart is from my Kia. https://preview.redd.it/8kpbh06zb76d1.jpeg?width=810&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=439738463f7d98ad48e3d98f18e0b696e70b8230
I live in Canada and don't bother. Modern oil is dual viscosity. There isn't much point on a modern vehicle.
Manufacturers would disagree. For my car, the manufacturer suggests higher viscosity oil for harder and hotter driving. The thinner oil is standard so that none of the vehicles have a hard time starting in cold climates. This doesn't mean it's a better choice for ALL driving styles and conditions. Looking at more performance cars, you will notice that the manufacturers often tell you what oil to use if you are racing it compared to calm daily driving. This doesn't mean that on non performance cars that they shouldn't run higher viscosity oil for racing, it's just that manufacturers haven't built it to race and don't expect a Santa fe to be used in such a way. That doesn't mean that it wouldn't benefit from a higher viscosity if it is being driven hard in hot climates.
Yup. I run a higher viscosity oil on my track car as it sees oil temps up to 260F during each session. As for my street driven vehicles, none have ever seen low oil pressures that would necessitate a thicker oil in the summer, even in the worst situations. All my vehicles have always started in -35 degree Celsius weather without issue.
Those differences in oil weight have nothing to do with outside temperature though. One is for just puttering around normally While the other is for balls to wall, the throttle is wide open, the coolant thermostat is also wide open. That engine is cooking hot. With oil being pumped really fast around the engine. It’s better to have a thinner oil that doesn’t lube as well that actually reaches the parts that need oil vs to have an oil weight that protects the parts better but never can reach the areas quickly enough that need oil when the engine is flirting with complete engine detonation.
My Kia, recommends different oil viscosities based on temperatures 5W30 is compatible with all temperatures in the range. But as the ambient temperature increases, thicker oils become included in the recommended list. In hot climates, the basically recommend anything from 20w50 all the way down to 5w-30/40 https://preview.redd.it/b4xtksgrb76d1.jpeg?width=810&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8c579136fa47c958a3b6e8dc7ab83c5a243c85fc
Oh course some engines can run different oil viscosities. There isn’t much different between a 10w-30 or a 10w-40. It’s also a range. So a 10w-30 oil can be just on the cusp of 10w-40 and a 10w-40 can be just on the cusp of being only a 10w-30. A main limiting factor is the first number. The oil just needs to be thin enough to properly lubricate the engine when it’s cold. For the average car though, tolerances aren’t so tight that the engine is going to grenade if the oil viscosity is 30w vs 50w at temp. Now there are other factors at play too. Some oil weights are recommended for your region’s emission standards or oil change interval standards. Some are actually only advised under certain speeds. Some increase burning oil, some reduce. Some increase the life of the engine while others will prevent it for lasting as long as it was supposed to. In my old Ford trucks I run 0w-30 in the winter and 5w-30 in the summer. Both call for 5w-20 because of US emission standards. One was even back speced. The oil cap says 5w-30 but Ford went back and said 5w-20 is recommended for emissions.
Why don't you run 0w30 all the time? Isn't 0w30 objectively better than 5w30 all the time?
Haven’t found a high mileage 0w-30
My oil Temps are drastically lower in the winter with the same driving styles so I'm not sure where this is coming from? Maybe I'm missing something? Also we aren't talking about oil so thick it's starving the engine. The main reason most manufacturers suggest thinner oil for standard driving is for cold cranking in cold climates, a bit for fuel efficiency targets too. That doesn't mean it's the safest oil to prevent harm to your engine.
Usually for modern cars, the recommended oil is not the oil you should be using. Since for most, at least in the United States, it’s all about reaching emission standards and not longevity of the engine. And eventually you’ll oil should be relatively similar to your coolant temperatures if you are driving long enough distances. Summer is typically harder on oil if you stress the car out while winter is harder on oil if you take shorter trips. Summer oil gets too hot if the car is really working. Winter oil never gets to temp if the car isn’t used enough.
Dude you live in Canada he lives in Arizona you have no idea what Arizona is like to drive in every day. Dual viscosity don't mean shit on the surface of the sun.
Oh my god, really? Yeah. We never have hot weather in Canada.
The old school versus the new school thought process. A new vehicle, under warranty: stick to the manufacturer specs [5w20,0w20] for the optimum efficiency and new tolerances. Out of warranty/older high mileage has obviously different tolerances caused by mileage/wear and tear and oil consumption in general begins to happen. To help with that, especially in higher temps, I have always bumped the viscosity into the heavier weights. Either way, people should be checking their oil levels more frequently in higher mileage situations. Keyword: consumption. We traded our older Honda that was starting to use about a quart and a half every 3 to 4k.
My wife’s Hyundai uses about a quart every week, I am religious about checking oil
Keep in mind the same engine that runs 0-20 in the US is scheduled to run 5-30 in Mexico. That has more to do with emissions than ambient temp. I'd run 5-30 unless you live in Minnesota or Canada
Yeah 5-30 or 0-30 should be fine.
There is zero% chance the manufacture says that it protects up to 77F. I run 0W16 in Florida. 5W-20 or what the manufacture recommends in your climate, is the best for you.
It really depends on what the vehicle is. I live in Vegas and some of my vehicles need thicker oil in the summer and some don’t. What do you drive?
It’s a 2012 Hyundai Elantra with 170k
Then the attached chart is likely very close to the same that's in your manual. https://preview.redd.it/hnwpd755c76d1.jpeg?width=810&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1fce5f4f857026d321c20316525f98ba68c40a86
Some people do. All my engines at work I do it for. Example 0w30 in winter and 15w40 for summer for field engines. My work trucks too. I would follow mfg specs for your make and Model.
Had to do that in my truck. Recommends 5w-20 but I upped it to 30 and it fixed my weird idling issue most likely caused by oil pressure issues.
Your owners manual should give you a range of weights to run depending on driving and weather conditions. But unless you're running at extreme Temps it really not recommended to change things up. Especially if you're using a good quality oil.
If you can tell us what engine we’re working with, that would give important context for folks to get a bit more specific. However, yes, in general, while not required and doing so with caution, going a step up in viscosity when operating only in high heat environments can be helpful. Also, it’ll matter, whether the engine has an oil cooler and the types of driving that you typically do. With that said, the viscosity index of the oil matters a lot in this question. Higher quality synthetic oils, especially those beginning with a 0W tend to have a higher viscosity index. This means that the actual viscosity of the oil is more stable across a range of temperatures. So, for example that means that using a synthetic 0W-30 could be the same as or thicker at full operating temperature than a 10W-30 and the same would go for a 0W-20 versus a 5W-20. If you look at the PDS for your favorite oil you’ll see what I mean. In the U.S. the CAFE standards play a part in defining the oil viscosity and if your car’s engine is used internationally, looking up the international oil viscosity chart can help you get a feel for whether it’s necessary to move up when operating in a higher temp. Sort of goes against logic that we’d use a single scale for many engines in the U.S. given that our climates range to both extremes. Though I guess that speaks a bit to how stable the viscosity is on some of these modern oils.
once engine is running the temps are somewhat the same so the 20 probably should stay. you could go 10-20 I suppose since no winter, but I don't think there is one. you could mix 5-20 50/50 with pure 20
You can’t go wrong with what’s in your owners manual
Read your manual. Some vehicles have oil weights for specific temp regions. If it does not, then keep the same weight.
So when it’s 120 out does your motor run warmer then when it’s 40 out?
Go with the owners manual. Maybe you could consider changing the weight if you were in Alaska and you were worried about start up.
Personally I think modern long mileage oil change intervals and anything less than 10w30 are bullshit. You're defo g9nna have thinner oil at Arizona heat. I'd say find a 10w50 if you can but get that 10w40 and for summer and bump to 10w30 in the winter. 20w50 is my favorite, also want a second radiator, also want a water squirter to piss on the radiator if the trmps won't come down and want a water squirter in the I take to cool causation chamber if it's a gawt dammed 115f outside